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7 Series - E65 / E66 (2002 - 2008)
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  #26  
Old 02-08-2013, 02:35 PM
SFbay SFbay is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stephen Max View Post
I see you are here in Austin. I am about to do the same thing, but I am definitely going to pull the heads to get at the carbon. I bought the cam alignment tools already. If you want to borrow them after I am done, let me know.
Just get some wire brushes 10$ and carb cleaner with wd 40 and leave heads alone
Did it in 3 hrs with intake removed, no cel or anything anymore.
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  #27  
Old 02-08-2013, 03:49 PM
Stephen Max Stephen Max is offline
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Location: Austin, TX
 
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Mein Auto: 1998 M3, 2004 545i
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Originally Posted by SFbay View Post
Just get some wire brushes 10$ and carb cleaner with wd 40 and leave heads alone
Did it in 3 hrs with intake removed, no cel or anything anymore.
Already did that. I spent a week soaking the passages with Seafoam and BG44K, and ran brushes in and out till I was blue in the face. It did nothing. Solvents aren't going to remove serious carbon deposits, and the brushes can't really get to where they need to be to do any good. Maybe another week of soaking would do the trick, but at this point I would rather remove the heads and thoroughly clean them up, replace the valve seals, lap the valves in and be done.
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  #28  
Old 02-08-2013, 06:41 PM
SFbay SFbay is offline
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Originally Posted by Stephen Max View Post
Already did that. I spent a week soaking the passages with Seafoam and BG44K, and ran brushes in and out till I was blue in the face. It did nothing. Solvents aren't going to remove serious carbon deposits, and the brushes can't really get to where they need to be to do any good. Maybe another week of soaking would do the trick, but at this point I would rather remove the heads and thoroughly clean them up, replace the valve seals, lap the valves in and be done.
So you tried compressed air and it wasn't going through?
Hmmm mine has 160k and it did very well.
Try wd40 plus carb cleaner overnight in a warm place.
Seafoam is kinda idk....
Also kerosine is good thing
Wd40+kerosine+carb cleaner+acetone
Also add brake fluid- works great!!!
Temp is around 25-30C to start chemical reaction

Last edited by SFbay; 02-08-2013 at 06:54 PM.
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  #29  
Old 02-09-2013, 08:28 AM
Davidf Davidf is offline
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Location: Austin, TX
 
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A word of caution on introducing chemicals into the cylinders that could possible destroy the siliconized aluminum treatment (alusil). For instance, oven cleaner will destroy the cylinders in short order.
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  #30  
Old 02-09-2013, 08:54 AM
Davidf Davidf is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stephen Max View Post
I see you are here in Austin. I am about to do the same thing, but I am definitely going to pull the heads to get at the carbon. I bought the cam alignment tools already. If you want to borrow them after I am done, let me know.
Great offer, thank you. I may go ahead and purchase the AGA cleaning kit and give it a shot. Regardless, I will need to replace the valve seals and need the cam tools. . If I go that route, you are welcome to borrow the cleaning kit if you want to give it another try. But it seems your case of carbon is severe. Mine, not so much as I can clear the fault and it will not return for weeks at a time. So, I assume I am getting some flow through the ports.
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  #31  
Old 08-17-2014, 03:22 AM
tabuarasa tabuarasa is offline
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Location: Spain
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
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Mein Auto: E65 745i (2002)
Hello, I have a few questions:

What is the cause of this issue?

will be premature wear, faulty manufacture, quality of gasoline or the way we drive?

Can we avoid this problem?

Thanks in advance your expertise.
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  #32  
Old 08-17-2014, 06:03 AM
Kingdomcome84 Kingdomcome84 is offline
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When I took a visit to BMWOEM1 in May '13, he told me its premature wear that it would happen eventually when the gaskets around the piston rings wear off. Most people here think you'll have to change engine oil every 5000 miles which isn't the case.

OEM1 told me NEVER IDLE when parked if the engine is on. This KILLS the seals. Driving habits plays a part in maintaining your valve seals

Last edited by Kingdomcome84; 08-17-2014 at 06:05 AM.
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  #33  
Old 08-17-2014, 08:12 AM
A B Able Truck's Avatar
A B Able Truck A B Able Truck is offline
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Originally Posted by Kingdomcome84 View Post
Driving habits plays a part in maintaining your valve seals
Yes, don't idle the car - better yet don't drive the car. You will never have to replace your valve stem seals this way, in fact, your maintenance costs will be considerably less. If you keep it covered & garaged it will look as is for decades to come.
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Last edited by A B Able Truck; 08-17-2014 at 08:17 AM.
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  #34  
Old 08-18-2014, 02:03 AM
tabuarasa tabuarasa is offline
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Originally Posted by Kingdomcome84 View Post
OEM1 told me NEVER IDLE when parked if the engine is on. This KILLS the seals. Driving habits plays a part in maintaining your valve seals
Thank you for advice, and another question: are all N62 engines condemned?
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  #35  
Old 08-18-2014, 09:19 AM
Stephen Max Stephen Max is offline
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I guess I ought to post an update. I pulled the heads off the N62 last spring and had the valve guides and seals replaced. The car runs like a champ now with no smoking or oil consumption. When I pulled the heads, it was obvious that no amount of chemicals were going to solve the problem, the carbon in the SA ports was rock hard. The ports had to be drilled out, which was possible after removing the exhaust valves. The total cost for the job was about $1K doing all but the head work myself. The lion's share of the bill went to the machinist, of course. If you are in or near Austin, I highly recommend Brooks Elliott. He has been doing head reconditioning for me for about 20 years, and has always done excellent work.
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