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E34 (1989 - 1995)

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  #26  
Old 01-15-2013, 09:32 AM
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BMR_LVR BMR_LVR is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monsignor View Post
I don't have that. I would need to jump the car again and get my voltometer on there. Should I take the voltage at the battery or the terminals under the hood?
I'm assuming that you mean you need to jump your car to be able to go get your voltmeter or to crank the car.

You need to check the voltage of the battery without the car running first. You will get the most accurate reading by checking at the battery posts, but the hot post under the hood should give you virtually the same number. No need to check it at the battery for this test.

If the battery is flat (meaning less than 12.6v), then you need to charge it by using a battery charger. Let it charge for a few hours. Here's my recommendation. Check the battery voltage immediately after charging. It should be 12.6v+. If not, then the battery will not even take a charge and is trash.

Check it a few hours after charging. It it drains much after charging, then either the battery is bad or you have a parasitic draw. If it holds a charge, then crank the car and check the battery voltage at idle. It should read 13.8v+ if the alternator is functioning properly. If it is less than that, then the alternator is almost certainly bad.

If all this is ok, then take it to Autozone (or the like) and have it tested under load and have the amperage tested.

I think that your battery is toast or the alternator is toast or both. Genius huh?

Anyway, it shouldn't take you long to sort this out.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noego View Post
It's Deja Poo - as in, I've heard this **** before.
Steve

Calypso Red 1992 525i with 200K miles

1991 735i - Sold
1992 525i - Sold
1995 325is - Sold
2000 528i - Sold


Last edited by BMR_LVR; 01-15-2013 at 09:33 AM.
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  #27  
Old 01-15-2013, 09:40 AM
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Monsignor Monsignor is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMR_LVR View Post
I'm assuming that you mean you need to jump your car to be able to go get your voltmeter or to crank the car.

You need to check the voltage of the battery without the car running first. You will get the most accurate reading by checking at the battery posts, but the hot post under the hood should give you virtually the same number. No need to check it at the battery for this test.

If the battery is flat (meaning less than 12.6v), then you need to charge it by using a battery charger. Let it charge for a few hours. Here's my recommendation. Check the battery voltage immediately after charging. It should be 12.6v+. If not, then the battery will not even take a charge and is trash.

Check it a few hours after charging. It it drains much after charging, then either the battery is bad or you have a parasitic draw. If it holds a charge, then crank the car and check the battery voltage at idle. It should read 13.8v+ if the alternator is functioning properly. If it is less than that, then the alternator is almost certainly bad.

If all this is ok, then take it to Autozone (or the like) and have it tested under load and have the amperage tested.

I think that your battery is toast or the alternator is toast or both. Genius huh?

Anyway, it shouldn't take you long to sort this out.
Right, i'd have to jump the car and run it a bit to charge it up. i actually dont have a battery charger if you can believe it. I would just jump the car and let the alternator spool up the battery....

so these are the numbers i'm looking for:
12.6V+ on battery, car off
13.8V+ on battery, car idle
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1995 525iA 250k mi
2003 350Z 88k mi
2014 F-150 0k mi

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  #28  
Old 01-15-2013, 10:02 AM
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BMR_LVR BMR_LVR is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monsignor View Post
Right, i'd have to jump the car and run it a bit to charge it up. i actually dont have a battery charger if you can believe it. I would just jump the car and let the alternator spool up the battery....

so these are the numbers i'm looking for:
12.6V+ on battery, car off
13.8V+ on battery, car idle
From my limited electrical knowledge, but based on what many mechanics have told me, the alternator is not designed to charge a battery, but maintain the charge. It is very hard on the alternator to run the car with a flat or discharged battery. That is likely why you were getting a rough idle ... not enough juice to the DME when the battery was flat.

May I suggest that you remove your battery and take it to Autozone or the like and have it tested. They should probably be able to tell you if you have a dead cell or similar.

If that is the case, get a new battery and put it in the car. Crank the engine and check the voltage. It should be 13.8v+. If so, then your battery was the culprit.
__________________
Most problems are usually something simple !

Quote:
Originally Posted by noego View Post
It's Deja Poo - as in, I've heard this **** before.
Steve

Calypso Red 1992 525i with 200K miles

1991 735i - Sold
1992 525i - Sold
1995 325is - Sold
2000 528i - Sold

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  #29  
Old 01-15-2013, 10:35 AM
S406 S406 is offline
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Nice that it started right up! I get excited every morning when mine starts.......Just waiting for problems to occur!
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  #30  
Old 01-15-2013, 10:48 AM
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Monsignor Monsignor is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMR_LVR View Post
From my limited electrical knowledge, but based on what many mechanics have told me, the alternator is not designed to charge a battery, but maintain the charge. It is very hard on the alternator to run the car with a flat or discharged battery. That is likely why you were getting a rough idle ... not enough juice to the DME when the battery was flat.

May I suggest that you remove your battery and take it to Autozone or the like and have it tested. They should probably be able to tell you if you have a dead cell or similar.

If that is the case, get a new battery and put it in the car. Crank the engine and check the voltage. It should be 13.8v+. If so, then your battery was the culprit.
I like this idea the best. I was starting to worry that every start was a jump because i only drive the car so rarely. When i had absolutely no power today my heart just sank. Hopefully my alternator is still in good nick. If not you gents will be getting a special treat, alternator rebuild DIY!! lol.
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1995 525iA 250k mi
2003 350Z 88k mi
2014 F-150 0k mi

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  #31  
Old 01-15-2013, 05:18 PM
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supertech777 supertech777 is offline
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Hey Joe , did you get the charging system and battery checked out ?

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  #32  
Old 01-15-2013, 05:26 PM
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Monsignor Monsignor is offline
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Originally Posted by supertech777 View Post
Hey Joe , did you get the charging system and battery checked out ?

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Hey Noel. Thanks for putting us back on topic. I'll have to take the battery out and inspected this weekend. I don't want to continually compromise my alternator. And we have snow in the forecast, which my big green low-low doesn't like...

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1995 525iA 250k mi
2003 350Z 88k mi
2014 F-150 0k mi

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  #33  
Old 01-15-2013, 05:32 PM
Edubz540i Edubz540i is offline
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Seen the video..must feel great to be able to put it back on the road
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  #34  
Old 01-15-2013, 05:35 PM
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supertech777 supertech777 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monsignor View Post
Hey Noel. Thanks for putting us back on topic. I'll have to take the battery out and inspected this weekend. I don't want to continually compromise my alternator. And we have snow in the forecast, which my big green low-low doesn't like...

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Yeah I hear you , its freakin cold here in Missouri to right now its 28 thank God we have a heated garage

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  #35  
Old 01-19-2013, 05:57 PM
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Monsignor Monsignor is offline
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So I took the battery out today and had it tested. It failed even for a paper weight. Because it was chinsy Wal-Mart brand I took it back and capitalized on the 3 year replacement. Took my money back (after two and a half years of service fo' FREE!!!) and will go get a decent battery tomorrow.

After its fired up I'll post back on the rough idle.

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1995 525iA 250k mi
2003 350Z 88k mi
2014 F-150 0k mi

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Last edited by Monsignor; 01-19-2013 at 05:58 PM.
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  #36  
Old 01-19-2013, 07:01 PM
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BMR_LVR BMR_LVR is offline
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Location: Asheboro, NC
 
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You may very well find that the rough idle goes away with the new battery. Hope so
__________________
Most problems are usually something simple !

Quote:
Originally Posted by noego View Post
It's Deja Poo - as in, I've heard this **** before.
Steve

Calypso Red 1992 525i with 200K miles

1991 735i - Sold
1992 525i - Sold
1995 325is - Sold
2000 528i - Sold

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  #37  
Old 01-19-2013, 07:16 PM
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supertech777 supertech777 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMR_LVR View Post
You may very well find that the rough idle goes away with the new battery. Hope so
+1

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  #38  
Old 01-19-2013, 10:11 PM
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Monsignor Monsignor is offline
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We'll know tomorrow

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1995 525iA 250k mi
2003 350Z 88k mi
2014 F-150 0k mi

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  #39  
Old 01-21-2013, 07:07 AM
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e34_spangler e34_spangler is online now
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You can check your voltage in the obc by going into the test thing

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  #40  
Old 02-07-2013, 07:39 AM
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Monsignor Monsignor is offline
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Okay. So turns out old battery was bad at even being a paperweight and because I got it at Fail-Mart within the replacement period, brought it back for refund. They didnt have a replacement so I got me a brand new dremel, but am unfortunately out of a battery.

So car sits because i'm lazy but finally went out and got a quality battery.
let this sink in: No core. With tax. $194.

Last night I pulled plugs and checked them, retorqued them and replaced all 6 coil boots. they fit much more snug rather than just going on, like I had to press a bit. Hopefully that also helps with the rough idle on start-up. Also there was oil on plugs 4-6. So. Y'know. Fcuk me, right? whatever.

Happening today:
  • Battery goes into E34
  • E28 hits 200K
  • E28 gets "retired" and "restored" Follow progress here on MyE28.com
  • E28 and E34 are switched on my insurance and I re-reg E34.
  • Use E34 henceforth
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1995 525iA 250k mi
2003 350Z 88k mi
2014 F-150 0k mi

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Snapchat: Titan_E34

Last edited by Monsignor; 02-07-2013 at 12:04 PM.
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  #41  
Old 02-07-2013, 07:08 PM
Edubz540i Edubz540i is offline
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Dope..
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  #42  
Old 02-07-2013, 07:47 PM
samsonnyc samsonnyc is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monsignor View Post
Okay. So turns out old battery was bad at even being a paperweight and because I got it at Fail-Mart within the replacement period, brought it back for refund. They didnt have a replacement so I got me a brand new dremel, but am unfortunately out of a battery.

So car sits because i'm lazy but finally went out and got a quality battery.
let this sink in: No core. With tax. $194.
Battery's brand ?
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  #43  
Old 02-08-2013, 01:48 PM
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Monsignor Monsignor is offline
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"Exide" something or other....

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1995 525iA 250k mi
2003 350Z 88k mi
2014 F-150 0k mi

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  #44  
Old 02-09-2013, 08:32 AM
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Monsignor Monsignor is offline
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Slightly off topic, but also somewhat related to "getting her back on the road" and its my thread so i'll do what I want LOL

I figured I'd give priority to My E34 brethren who have interest in it.

Selling My E28 Thread
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1995 525iA 250k mi
2003 350Z 88k mi
2014 F-150 0k mi

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  #45  
Old 02-09-2013, 01:47 PM
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_Ethrty-Andy_ _Ethrty-Andy_ is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monsignor View Post
"Exide" something or other....

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wow i didnt know exide were a global company! we have a plant just around the corner from my work.
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  #46  
Old 02-09-2013, 02:38 PM
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Monsignor Monsignor is offline
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wow i didnt know exide were a global company! we have a plant just around the corner from my work.
The currency exchange rate must be sh!t then cause i feel like i just paid this month's mortgage on that plant.
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  #47  
Old 02-09-2013, 04:36 PM
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_Ethrty-Andy_ _Ethrty-Andy_ is offline
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The currency exchange rate must be sh!t then cause i feel like i just paid this month's mortgage on that plant.
Yes it's very good for me at the moment which yes means its crap for you guys
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