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E34 (1989 - 1995)

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  #51  
Old 02-05-2013, 07:27 AM
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BMR_LVR BMR_LVR is offline
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Good luck Spangler and please let us know what your mechanic finally diagnoses and what it took to fix it.
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1991 735i - Sold
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  #52  
Old 02-05-2013, 08:14 AM
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Good luck Spangler and please let us know what your mechanic finally diagnoses and what it took to fix it.
Deffiantly will do! Thanks for everyones help!

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  #53  
Old 02-05-2013, 08:47 AM
Mamij Mamij is offline
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Hi Rick. Yes, I understand that solvent flushing caused a problem for your engine. This is why I suggested using atf or an oil based flush instead. It would be much less effective but it would still do some cleaning, maybe enough for the OP to solve his oil light problem.

My motor has 200k miles too, as did my previous car. I had no problems and no hints of problems with diesel engine flushes. No one I know on the forums has had any problems with this too. So I still recommend flushing. Much cheaper than ripping up the engine. You get a cleaner engine even if it doesn't help. And if snowsled7 is right, then you are going to waste alot of money with the mechanic. So try this first.

Rick anyway, I have a question for you. I posted it in your thread. Thanks.
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  #54  
Old 02-06-2013, 05:06 AM
snowsled7 snowsled7 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mamij View Post
Hi Rick. Yes, I understand that solvent flushing caused a problem for your engine. This is why I suggested using atf or an oil based flush instead. It would be much less effective but it would still do some cleaning, maybe enough for the OP to solve his oil light problem.

My motor has 200k miles too, as did my previous car. I had no problems and no hints of problems with diesel engine flushes. No one I know on the forums has had any problems with this too. So I still recommend flushing. Much cheaper than ripping up the engine. You get a cleaner engine even if it doesn't help. And if snowsled7 is right, then you are going to waste alot of money with the mechanic. So try this first.

Rick anyway, I have a question for you. I posted it in your thread. Thanks.

OK, FACT #1, You can not get your engine "clean" by using the techniques you suggest. It is simply impossible. I posted this before, I will post it again... when you rebuild and engine it spends a night or often a weekend in a tank of hot caustic acid soaking. THAT is how you clean the inside of an engine. NOTHING you run though the oil will clean it.

FACT #2, nobody is going to admit they screwed up thier engine doing one of these "flushes". In fact, those that damage an engine doing this likely are unaware of the damage.

Question? How does it help the engine to accumulate MORE debris in the oil pan?

Engines are designed to eliminate the debris if you just leave them as designed. That is why we do oil changes and engines have oil filters.

Question? How does it make the engine run better or last longer to knock loose deposits in the oil passages?

Doing so risks said deposits getting into all manner of tight spaces where rough carbon will damage bearings and machined surfaces. I lost a piston and cylinder on my snowmobile when a small carbon chunck wedged between the cylinder and rings. It quickly ruined the parts. You do not want this to happen. Inducing such a thing on purpose is potentially damaging with ZERO upside to the process.

Question? How does it help the engine run better or last longer to engage in this "flushing" process?
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  #55  
Old 02-06-2013, 05:28 AM
cutter67 cutter67 is offline
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^^^^^^this exactly right flushing a engine oil system is not the same as flushing a cooling system of a engine. i do not advise anyone doing this you are asking for trouble later on
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  #56  
Old 02-07-2013, 02:34 PM
samsonnyc samsonnyc is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cutter67 View Post
^^^^^^this exactly right flushing a engine oil system is not the same as flushing a cooling system of a engine. i do not advise anyone doing this you are asking for trouble later on
fwiw I've been flushing my engine all this while with no problems. Dunno if it helps, I have carbon on my valves, but it caused no problems. No oil light etc.

All the flushes seem to smell the same...like paraffin. I think they are the same no matter who sells it whether moly or poly. No brainer I guess.

Radiator flush is a different story. The only ones which help are those which react with actual rust in the engine and move that out to the radiator. There's a word for this.

Chelating. Chelation. Yup something like that.

Only buy something that uses that word in its description. Everything else is the same as using the garden hose.

Last edited by samsonnyc; 02-07-2013 at 03:00 PM.
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  #57  
Old 02-07-2013, 07:20 PM
snowsled7 snowsled7 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samsonnyc View Post
fwiw I've been flushing my engine all this while with no problems. Dunno if it helps, I have carbon on my valves, but it caused no problems. No oil light etc.

If in fact there is carbon on your valves, which I doubt, nothing you put in the oil system will ever reach the valves. Fuel system cleaner might work on valve deposits, and much less risky than flushing the oil system.

People like to claim no problems. How long has it been now with "no problems"? Weeks Months, Years? BIG difference. Damage in the oil system is rarely an immediate failure. Over time you are taking a big risk doing "flushes".

And tell me again what benefit it has provided beyond a psychological one...
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  #58  
Old 02-07-2013, 07:35 PM
samsonnyc samsonnyc is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snowsled7 View Post
If in fact there is carbon on your valves, which I doubt, nothing you put in the oil system will ever reach the valves. Fuel system cleaner might work on valve deposits, and much less risky than flushing the oil system.

People like to claim no problems. How long has it been now with "no problems"? Weeks Months, Years? BIG difference. Damage in the oil system is rarely an immediate failure. Over time you are taking a big risk doing "flushes".

And tell me again what benefit it has provided beyond a psychological one...
You're probably right on the psychological stuff for engine flushes

I don't think the fuel system stuff will help with baked on carbon on valves. From what I've read, that requires soaking and sanding. Baked carbon means I'm already too late. But if moly sells it, then it must be useful to keep clean valves, clean. The carbon did get there somehow.
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  #59  
Old 02-10-2013, 06:20 AM
Mamij Mamij is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snowsled7 View Post
OK, FACT #1, You can not get your engine "clean" by using the techniques you suggest. It is simply impossible. I posted this before, I will post it again... when you rebuild and engine it spends a night or often a weekend in a tank of hot caustic acid soaking. THAT is how you clean the inside of an engine. NOTHING you run though the oil will clean it.

FACT #2, nobody is going to admit they screwed up thier engine doing one of these "flushes". In fact, those that damage an engine doing this likely are unaware of the damage.

Question? How does it help the engine to accumulate MORE debris in the oil pan?

Engines are designed to eliminate the debris if you just leave them as designed. That is why we do oil changes and engines have oil filters.

Question? How does it make the engine run better or last longer to knock loose deposits in the oil passages?

Doing so risks said deposits getting into all manner of tight spaces where rough carbon will damage bearings and machined surfaces. I lost a piston and cylinder on my snowmobile when a small carbon chunck wedged between the cylinder and rings. It quickly ruined the parts. You do not want this to happen. Inducing such a thing on purpose is potentially damaging with ZERO upside to the process.

Question? How does it help the engine run better or last longer to engage in this "flushing" process?

Hi Snosled7,

Sorry I have not replied. Can you help me ? I need your opinion on something first. This is a writeup about Liqui Moly.

http://lubromolyprolineengineflush50...sh-500-ml.html

Lubro-Moly Pro-Line Engine Flush (500 ML) Description
Pro-Line Engine Flush is a development product based on highly effective state-of-the-art additive technology. These highly effective detergent and dispersant additives in association with the carrier fluid have been tested in the laboratory and in practical field trials for their ability to dissolve sludge and lacquer formers. All types of oil-soluble and oil-insoluble residues are brought into suspension and removed during the next oil change. An engine which has been cleaned of deposits and contamination and which is then filled with fresh oil not contaminated with old impurities can develop its full performance characteristics.
Lubro-Moly Pro-Line Engine Flush (500 ML) Features

Optimum lubricant utilization
Improved compression
Lower exhaust emissions
Longer life of engine and exhaust equipment
Trouble free operation


Liqui Moly is a BMW-class oil company, that has teams of PhDs automotive engineers, and spends millions on actual research across a wide range of situations. What they say HAS to be considered seriously. They have earned the right to talk to enthusiasts.

Now, please tell me what is your opinion of Liqui Moly engine flush and what they say ? I will reply to your earlier posts after that. I will also explain why I have just made an offer on Rick's car, the one that had so much trouble with a flush. Thanks Snowsled7.

p.s. For the record , I don't think their engine flush is so much better than diesel that I would pay 25x more for it (for 2 litres). In fact it even smells like it. So its a good product but the competition is far cheaper so it loses out for me and anyone who is not a billionaire.
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  #60  
Old 02-11-2013, 04:44 AM
snowsled7 snowsled7 is offline
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If you use quality oil and change it as reccomended by BMW, you will not have a problem that requires these snake oil cures.

I do not care what they say in their advertisements, they sell chemicals to make money. I have seen way to many open engines to believe that any detergents added after the fact are going to actually clean an engine. I also do not agree with the list of benefits they give.

Optimum lubricant utilization*** What on earth does this even mean? You pour oil in, the engine pumps it around lubricating components, what would be an example of optimum utilization. Sounds like BS to me

Improved compression*** Tell me exactly how detergents in the oil are going to improve compression? More BS

Lower exhaust emissions*** Your engine must be burning a lot of oil if the additive is to have an effect on tailpipe emissions otherwise oil has precious little to do with exhaust emissions.

Longer life of engine and exhaust equipment*** Really? Can they prove that claim?

Trouble free operation*** Uh-huh, yeah sure. Maybe they will gaurantee that you have no problems with your car if you use this formula.


I don't see any evidence that this is a good idea. If YOU think it is helping your engine, by all means, knock yourself out. There simply is no reason to bother with chemicals like this. It will not make your car run better or last longer. It is feel good BS which is marketed to the world by millions of companies worldwide daily.
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  #61  
Old 02-11-2013, 04:53 AM
cutter67 cutter67 is offline
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this is a engine i just torn apart you be the judge do you want something trying to remove this build up in the engine, i will let these parts sit in the partwasher all week and next weekend will still have to brush and scape to get clean




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  #62  
Old 02-11-2013, 06:41 AM
snowsled7 snowsled7 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cutter67 View Post
this is a engine i just torn apart you be the judge do you want something trying to remove this build up in the engine, i will let these parts sit in the partwasher all week and next weekend will still have to brush and scape to get clean




What people are buying into is that they can clean that up with an oil additive or diesel. Soaking them in a concentrated solvent for a week plus scrubbing with a steel bristle brush... That or hot tanking as I have mentioned.

Bottom line is, you are not going to get it clean with an oil additive.

In most cases the grime on the metal in the engine isn't really hurting anything even if it looks ugly.

The whole idea is pointless, and using diesel just because the additives smell the same is dubious to begin with. You must have quite a sense of smell to determine chemical make-up like that

Thinning the oil with diesel, especially todays diesel with much less natural lubricity, in conjunction with ever tightening bearing clearances makes this mix potentially very harmful to the engine.

I have yet to see any evidence that this procedure has benefits. I see lots of marketing and lots of good intentions backed by misunderstanding.

I think there is substantial risk to running diesel in your oil. I know it isn't enough to actually clean the engine, and I have yet to see proof that if it does clean, this helps how? Helps people feel better? That isn't enough for me to risk engine damage.
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  #63  
Old 02-14-2013, 04:10 PM
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Well so most of the bearings are out from what I understand im not a mechanic but yeah so they said they could fix them but it would just be temp and better to replace the engine.... there's an e30 that needs some work but engine runs great its only got 120000 on it! Buy my old mans saying its gonna take like 500 to get it running... I like the e34 but I want a manual and the maroon with tan interior idk just isnt flying whay you guys think

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  #64  
Old 02-14-2013, 04:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e34_spangler View Post
Well so most of the bearings are out from what I understand im not a mechanic but yeah so they said they could fix them but it would just be temp and better to replace the engine.... there's an e30 that needs some work but engine runs great its only got 120000 on it! Buy my old mans saying its gonna take like 500 to get it running... I like the e34 but I want a manual and the maroon with tan interior idk just isnt flying whay you guys think

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You should be able to find a used M50 non-vanos and have it installed in your current E34 (especially since your current engine is already out of the car) for close to the same price you are looking at for fixing the E30.

I encourage you to closely explore all options. Good luck and let us know what you decide.
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It's Deja Poo - as in, I've heard this **** before.
Steve

Calypso Red 1992 525i with 200K miles

1991 735i - Sold
1992 525i - Sold
1995 325is - Sold
2000 528i - Sold

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  #65  
Old 02-14-2013, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by BMR_LVR View Post
You should be able to find a used M50 non-vanos and have it installed in your current E34 (especially since your current engine is already out of the car) for close to the same price you are looking at for fixing the E30.

I encourage you to closely explore all options. Good luck and let us know what you decide.
Well the shop that we work with said 1500 to replace the engine

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  #66  
Old 02-14-2013, 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by e34_spangler View Post
Well the shop that we work with said 1500 to replace the engine

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That sounds too high in my opinion. However, if the car is already there, and they have pulled the engine out, then you may be out of options. Someone may want to buy your chassis if it is in good condition so they can replace the engine.
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It's Deja Poo - as in, I've heard this **** before.
Steve

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1991 735i - Sold
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1995 325is - Sold
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  #67  
Old 02-15-2013, 03:24 AM
cutter67 cutter67 is offline
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i dont think think you should buy the e30 either. these cars take a lot of work any of them if you have to pay people to fix them then they are not worth having unless you are wealthy and can afford it. i own a total of 14 cars pre 1995 german and Japanese and none are my daily driver. my DD's are 2009 and newer. i would suggest getting something newer and cheaper and start learning to maintain it. these are great and wonderful cars but like anything as complicated as they are they start to to wear out over time and are costly to fix thats just a fact......

if someone appoached me to do a engine swap i would tell them $1,000.00 to $1,500.00 because to do it right takes time.... period
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  #68  
Old 02-16-2013, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by cutter67 View Post
i dont think think you should buy the e30 either. these cars take a lot of work any of them if you have to pay people to fix them then they are not worth having unless you are wealthy and can afford it. i own a total of 14 cars pre 1995 german and Japanese and none are my daily driver. my DD's are 2009 and newer. i would suggest getting something newer and cheaper and start learning to maintain it. these are great and wonderful cars but like anything as complicated as they are they start to to wear out over time and are costly to fix thats just a fact......

if someone appoached me to do a engine swap i would tell them $1,000.00 to $1,500.00 because to do it right takes time.... period
Well my old man rebuilt a few bmws 2 2002s are on display that he sold for like 25k esch he knows what hes doing. . And we dont usally take stuff to shops but see im getting the e30 cause I want something manual and smaller. So nows a good time since the motor went out

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  #69  
Old 02-16-2013, 06:06 PM
snowsled7 snowsled7 is offline
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I do love e30s

I learned to drive a manual in a then NEW '84 318i. My first BMW was an '84 318i, my second an '87 325(e), third an '89 325ix, all manuals. I can not fault the logic in having a smaller lighter car, especially an e30.

When you get it post pics here for us.
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  #70  
Old 02-16-2013, 06:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snowsled7 View Post
I do love e30s

I learned to drive a manual in a then NEW '84 318i. My first BMW was an '84 318i, my second an '87 325(e), third an '89 325ix, all manuals. I can not fault the logic in having a smaller lighter car, especially an e30.

When you get it post pics here for us.
Will do!

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  #71  
Old 02-20-2013, 05:05 PM
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This is the e30Click image for larger version

Name:	uploadfromtaptalk1361408729526.jpg
Views:	25
Size:	49.3 KB
ID:	363152

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  #72  
Old 02-20-2013, 06:26 PM
snowsled7 snowsled7 is offline
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325 eta motor? I had an 87 four door bronzit 325 with the eta. I didn't keep it very long but the low redline thing actually worked pretty well.

Sold it to my then sister in law and her husband. They decided to try the horizontal mambo on the hood, dented the chit out of it, she was not a small girl.... morons.
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  #73  
Old 02-21-2013, 05:42 AM
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Originally Posted by snowsled7 View Post
325 eta motor? I had an 87 four door bronzit 325 with the eta. I didn't keep it very long but the low redline thing actually worked pretty well.

Sold it to my then sister in law and her husband. They decided to try the horizontal mambo on the hood, dented the chit out of it, she was not a small girl.... morons.
yeah its the eta its a fun little car not fast but you can throw it around and the mpg is night and day compared to my e34! which helps with the wallet ahah
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  #74  
Old 02-21-2013, 05:56 AM
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yeah its the eta its a fun little car not fast but you can throw it around and the mpg is night and day compared to my e34! which helps with the wallet ahah
every single thing you said is 100%.
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  #75  
Old 02-21-2013, 06:08 PM
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every single thing you said is 100%.
I kinda dont like to see the e34 I know when im older ill have another haha

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