Good buy?

I hear a heater core is a pain to replace though. http://anchorage.craigslist.org/cto/3608841161.html

I just had to have my heater core replaced. I looked and the DIY and decided it wasn't for me, so I had my indy mech do it. It cost $635 including a new cabin air filter.

His description of the possible leak at the O-rings sounds a little fishy because of his statement that it "is leaking past its O-rings and needs to be fixed to blow heat real hot."

A leaking heater core will not change how hot the air coming out is unless it has leaked enough coolant that the entire system is low. If that is the case, then an engine overheat is entirely possible.

A leaking heater core manifests in one of two ways, or both. Firstly, you will smell a sweet, coolant smell out of the vents when the heat is turned on. Secondly, if the leak is severe enough, you will get fog on the inside of the windshield that will not go away with the defroster and can leave an oily film. One last way to tell is by a puddle of coolant under the car by the transmission area. This is where the heater core box drain comes out.

Anyway, look at the car with your eyes "wide open" so to speak. I don't know how many reputable indy mechs you have there, but, in my opinion, it would be worth the $75-$100 it would cost to have a pre-purchase inspection (PPI), especially if you are not familiar with the E34 BMW.

Good luck on your purchase it you get it.

PS: BTW, I spent a year stationed at King Salmon AFB there in '81-'82. I have some of the greatest memories from there.

I did my own heater core and it was a pain in the butt-ox... It took about three hours to complete. It is a DIY but deffinitely a PAI. If the car is sound eccept for that and the price is right, go for it.

Edit,

If the sellers only clue to needing a new heqater core is that the heat is not blowing real hot... It may just need a new cabon air filter.

Originally Posted by CarDriver

If the sellers only clue to needing a new heqater core is that the heat is not blowing real hot... It may just need a new cabon air filter.

And/or his t-stat could be sticking open as well.

Originally Posted by BMR_LVR

And/or his t-stat could be sticking open as well.

And there that... LOL...

if I go look at it how can I tell if the t-stat is stuck open? Where would I see leaks from heater core? I will check for foggy windows.

Originally Posted by 907URO

if I go look at it how can I tell if the t-stat is stuck open? Where would I see leaks from heater core? I will check for foggy windows.

let it idle and if it never gets to full operating temp, like half way warm, then its stuck open.

so check for temp and would i see any fluid leaks? where?

stuck t-stat would not cause a fluid leak

sorry i ment if the heater core was leaking where would i see leaks? Also I own all audi's and you have to use special coolant. Should I be looking for a specific coolant color?

could be any color. I've seen it look sorta oily... it'll just look wet really.

Originally Posted by 907URO

sorry i ment if the heater core was leaking where would i see leaks? Also I own all audi's and you have to use special coolant. Should I be looking for a specific coolant color?

If it's leaking heavily, the passenger side floorboard carpet may be wet. If it happens to be parked on concrete, then a moderate to severe leak will manifest by coolant dripping on the driver's side of the transmission. That is where the drain for the heater core box comes out.

Usually, if the heater core is leaking, you will smell it when you turn the heat on.

+1 on smell. Possibly seller has no idea what he is talking about. Only use genuine coolant.

Even if she needs an HC, for a grand it may be worth it if all else is in good order...