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E46 (1999 - 2006)
The fourth generation 3 Series (E46 chassis) was introduced in 1999 and set the standard for engineering and performance during it's years of production including being named to Car & Driver's 10 best list every one of those years! ! -- View the E46 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 02-10-2013, 09:05 AM
Petey42 Petey42 is offline
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M54B25 convert to B30

So, I've heard that the difference between a B25 and a B30 is the stroke of the crank. If I plan on doing a light rebuild (crank bearings, rod bearings, wrist pins, piston rings, oil pump) anyway, would this be a worth while upgrade in power? What are all the differences between the motors? (or the similarities, if that is a shorter list) Is a block-in-car rebuild possible?
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  #2  
Old 02-10-2013, 09:35 AM
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First of all, *why* are you rebuilding this engine ? Is it "elective surgery", or is there a problem with it ? I ask because these engines are normally extremely durable, often going 300,000 miles without a teardown.

And no, I don`t think it`s worth the time or money that it will cost you (which WILL end up being more than you think). I`ve done a top-to-bottom rebuild on this engine, so I`ve experienced it firsthand....
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  #3  
Old 02-10-2013, 10:04 AM
Petey42 Petey42 is offline
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No, there isn't anything wrong with the motor. I'm just looking at ways to increase the power. I'd prefer to increase the displacement over forced induction because of the reliability issues with those systems. If I could just replace the crankshaft, and a couple other components to make it run well, that would be great. I've done engine rebuilds before, what kind of particular hassles are there with the M54?
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Old 02-10-2013, 10:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Petey42 View Post
No, there isn't anything wrong with the motor. I'm just looking at ways to increase the power. I'd prefer to increase the displacement over forced induction because of the reliability issues with those systems. If I could just replace the crankshaft, and a couple other components to make it run well, that would be great. I've done engine rebuilds before, what kind of particular hassles are there with the M54?
No particular "hassles"....parts are expensive, and it`s *real* easy to blow your proposed budget. You start thinking along the lines of "well, let me take advantage of that extra displacement by changing the cams and doing a little port & polish work" then you realize that improved breathing will require a more effective exhaust, so you go for headers and a low-restriction, lightweight exhaust system. Before you know it, you`re several thousand dollars deeper than you expected....
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  #5  
Old 02-10-2013, 10:45 AM
TannerT TannerT is offline
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I have done a lot of digging around about forced induction. While it is impossible to say reliablility won't Lange there are a few kits that do offer near stock reliability with correct maintenance. Take the GPower SK plus it was built exactly with you in mind. It is a low psi kit that alters little of the stock engine configuration where as Kirk's like AA and ESS highly modify the engine but also put down big power. Reliability it directly proportional the the %horse power over stock. With that being said if you have an auto trans reliability is out of the question. I know lots of guys on here are running boosted autos but almost ever post i have read the member does a pretty significant trans build which is $$$ but that leads me to another option if you have an auto either sell it and buy a zhp or 330 5speed, or do a 5 speed swap. I just did a swap on my 330 and with the 3.38 diff it hauls some ass and is pretty much stock. Well making just over stock HP nothing big... yet.


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  #6  
Old 02-10-2013, 10:55 AM
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you need b30 pistons and an s52b32/m54b30 crank and it will be fine
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  #7  
Old 02-10-2013, 11:26 AM
Petey42 Petey42 is offline
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Fortunately, I had the foresight to buy a manual transmission. The car I bought was the most available. I would have rather bought a 330, but my car broke down and I couldn't make the drive to pick one up.

I do plan on doing other things to get more power, but the build I'm thinking of would have to be done over a long weekend.

Mr Gusta, have you done this swap or know someone who has done it that I can talk to? From what you're saying, I gather I can swap out the lower rotating assembly and the stock ECU, ignition, and fuel systems will work fine. Is that right?
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Old 02-10-2013, 11:46 AM
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you can do the bottom end swap and keep everything else b25, when you are ready for a flash or a tune, tell them you want a b30 flash and pop in the b30 manifold with the b30 purpletop injectors.

anyone who tunes the e46 dme can do it.
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  #9  
Old 02-10-2013, 12:10 PM
Petey42 Petey42 is offline
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I'm having a hard time finding b30 pistons. Couldn't I just swap the piston rods? Are the pistons themselves different?
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  #10  
Old 02-10-2013, 12:18 PM
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you can swap the entire rotating assembly.
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  #11  
Old 02-10-2013, 12:46 PM
Petey42 Petey42 is offline
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The entire rotating assembly is hard to find too.
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  #12  
Old 02-10-2013, 01:01 PM
Petey42 Petey42 is offline
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Never mind, eBay has everything for the lower rotating assembly.
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  #13  
Old 02-10-2013, 01:46 PM
TannerT TannerT is offline
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well if you go through with the swap be sure to do a detailed post! should be interesting.esp the price would like to see how much that really costs. also if you have a manual get a higher geared diff unless you dive A LOT of highway miles. I have the 3.38 which is too high but I only have to hit 5 for about 1 miles the rest is 35 of less. In 5th going 60 if i floor it i still get a decent pull... lol
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Old 02-10-2013, 03:03 PM
Petey42 Petey42 is offline
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I priced out everything I would need to do the stroker kit. It comes to a little over $1200 without the oil pump. The oil pump is $400. This is using a used crank, pistons, and rods. If I used new rods and pistons it would be over $3000. What do you think? I have 120k on the motor now, is the oil pump worth it?

Part Name No. Price/unit Price
crankshaft 1 $601.61 $601.61
pistons and rods 1 $100.00 $100.00
piston rings 1 $170.99 $170.99
piston pin bushing 1 $44.99 $44.99
rod bearings 6 $17.87 $107.22
main bearings 1 $129.90 $129.90
lower gasket set 1 $123.49 $123.49
oil pump 1 $403.95 $403.95
$1,682.15 total with oil pump
$1,278.20 total without oil pump
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Old 02-10-2013, 09:26 PM
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Can find a used crank on eBay for like 300 from some Bavarian auto recyclers. (Will have warranty) so I make sure it's true. Oil pump on our cars is well made except the oil pump nut. Which can be fix with a vaio oil pump setup and ati super damper.
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  #16  
Old 02-11-2013, 04:57 AM
Petey42 Petey42 is offline
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Your comment about the oil pump confuses me. What's wrong with the oil pump nut? Why would a vaio oil pump fix the problem? Also, why would a new harmonic balancer fix the problem with the oil pump nut?
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Old 02-11-2013, 04:57 AM
SPDSKTR SPDSKTR is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Petey42 View Post
I priced out everything I would need to do the stroker kit. It comes to a little over $1200 without the oil pump. The oil pump is $400. This is using a used crank, pistons, and rods. If I used new rods and pistons it would be over $3000. What do you think? I have 120k on the motor now, is the oil pump worth it?

Part Name No. Price/unit Price
crankshaft 1 $601.61 $601.61
pistons and rods 1 $100.00 $100.00
piston rings 1 $170.99 $170.99

piston pin bushing 1 $44.99 $44.99
rod bearings 6 $17.87 $107.22
main bearings 1 $129.90 $129.90
lower gasket set 1 $123.49 $123.49
oil pump 1 $403.95 $403.95
$1,682.15 total with oil pump
$1,278.20 total without oil pump
You're only getting one piston and rod?
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  #18  
Old 02-11-2013, 03:56 PM
Petey42 Petey42 is offline
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No, I'm getting 6. The auction on eBay that I was looking at was a set of 6.
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  #19  
Old 02-11-2013, 05:00 PM
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The main problem I see with doing it this way is that with used parts, you never know what you`re getting....if you`re going to all this trouble, you *at least* want to give the cylinders a fresh hone job to assure the new rings a good surface to seat up against. The Unknown X-Factor is, you have no idea what your piston-to-wall clearance is gonna be. Just the OPPOSITE of blueprinting....
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  #20  
Old 02-12-2013, 06:18 PM
Petey42 Petey42 is offline
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I'm not sure that the cylinder walls will be much of a problem if they come from a motor with good compression to begin with. Of course, if the motor is loosing compression, then certainly something must be done with the cylinder sleves. (probably replace them)
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  #21  
Old 02-13-2013, 08:36 PM
Fishful Thinking Fishful Thinking is offline
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Or you could do a complete engine swap. The money you could get for your engine would pay for most of the new one. Save you lots of time.
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  #22  
Old 02-13-2013, 10:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Petey42 View Post
I'm not sure that the cylinder walls will be much of a problem if they come from a motor with good compression to begin with. Of course, if the motor is loosing compression, then certainly something must be done with the cylinder sleves. (probably replace them)
Sorry to have to say this, but this is a *real* half-assed way to go about things....you can`t even call this a "rebuild", because you`re not following any kind of rebuild protocol, you`re just throwing a bunch of junkyard parts together. Instead of pissing this effort away, you should spend a little more time and money, and do it the right way.
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Old 02-13-2013, 10:16 PM
heztheone heztheone is offline
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hope this might help u out
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  #24  
Old 05-25-2013, 07:10 AM
Petey42 Petey42 is offline
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After a lot of research and thinking, I don't think this conversion would be worth it. You guys are right. I could probably get a professionally rebuilt b30 for the time and money I would spend on this. So... Forced Induction?
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