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6 Series
The BMW 6 Series builds on BMW's sporty heritage with aggressive lines and an incredible motor to back the design up. Available in coupe and convertible trims with a standard 4.8 liter engine producing 360 horsepower and 360 lb-ft of torque, the 6-series is a popular choice that exceeds expectations. |
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#1
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Urgent: follow up to valve cover job
Good evening all
So my friend helped me replace the passenger valve cover gasket. It was a b!#ch, to say the least, but it got done in about 8 hours. I'm having a problem that I read about somewhere on these forums, but cannot find the post for the life of me. I started up the car and now I'm getting an engine malfunction, something about load on the engine may damage such and such. I drove the car fine before the job so I know it's related to the work we just did. I'm thinking the cam sensors or coils weren't put back on properly - does this sound correct? The RPMs were jumping up and down. My mind is fried after that job, so thanks in advance! |
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#2
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Eccentric shaft sensor, or you didnt fully seat ignition coils, or fuel rail may not be fully seated. Good luck
__________________
650i sport hud asanti af132 |
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#3
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Is the servo motor supposed to be seated a certain way? I feel like I'm doing it wrong
Sent from my MB855 using Bimmer App |
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#4
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Okay so one of the cam sensors wasn't clipped. I turned the engine on and it sounds a whole lot better, still struggling a tad but not like yesterday.
Getting emissions error now Sent from my MB855 using Bimmer App |
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#5
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Sounds like you now have a vacuum leak. Did you change all of the O-rings & gasket like o-ring's on the top of the valve covers? It is hard to believe that an o-ring can cause this error, but it can!
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#6
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Hey HerbP
I did what was posted here http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=653179. I'm defeated. I drove it back to my dorm from the military auto shop here on base. It drives good at like 30+mph but kind of rough lower than that. I think I will have to resort to getting the codes checked at an indy I go to. I'm stuck and am wondering whether it's the ignition coils that decided to go bad when we took them out. Any idea what the part number is for those? |
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#7
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Codes would help, but a vacuum problem is usually more of a problem under very little load. Based on the list in the above mentioned thread, that should cover most of the seals. Vacuum problems could be with any lines associated to the vacuum system, & the CCV valves. You could plug off each line one by one, & maybe get lucky? The valve cover gasket could also not be fully seated. When I had a similar problem after changing my valve covers, I did not replace one of my O-rings on the Eccentric Valve sensor. I had to resort to plugging all of my vacuum lines, & create a positive pressure inside the engine. This is not always a smart thing to do, but it was the only way I could find my problem.
While searching for my vacuum leak, I used DIS to monitor the air flow inside of the motor. I can not remember all of the terms right now, but it will come to me later. Finding the leak was very hard, but the smoke test found it in 1 minute! After finding the leak, the air flow test in the motor, went back to normal readings. If you want to know how to plug the correct lines, I will not be responsible for any damage that might be done to your motor. Let me know by PM, & I will help you out! Good Luck! |
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#8
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I'm at a loss, man.
BMW charges a **** load to read codes and the Indy I go to is a few miles away. Think it would be okay to drive her there? I do have towing apart of my insurance but I've already used it earlier this month. I know one of the coils dropped to the floor and may have been damaged. I don't know how I'd create a vacuum leak especially since I didn't move any of them. Maybe I just don't understand what that means. I didn't replace driver side spark plugs when I did passenger side - would this maybe throw it off as well? |
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#9
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When you removed the valve covers, you removed quite a few vacuum opportunities! The front crank case vent hose( 3/4" ), & the 3 sensor o-rings in the rear of the valve cover. The valve cover not being seated properly could also cause a problem. Did all of the top & bottom valve cover nuts go on without problems? One last thing could be the seals in the valve cover, to seal around the spark plugs. Dropping a coil pack in the wrong place, could damage the COP. This would cause a misfire, & cause a CEL light to come on. Not changing the spark plugs on one side, would not cause much of a problem, if the engine was running ok before any work was done. Based on your current location, you need to buy yourself a cable & software, & learn to do your own diagnostics. It will pay for itself in a hurry!
As you know by now, changing the valve cover is a pain in the ars!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Good Luck! |
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#10
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Ugh
The valve cover wasn't grabbing on at first but eventually did get it on. The bolts were being a little stubborn at and the cover was uneven but looked good at the end. I'm left with no choice but to take it to get the codes read. Do you reckon it would be okay to drive it one-way to get checked? Which software and cables would I need? I know for certain none of it will work on my laptop as I am running 68 bit windows 8. This is really starting to dishearten me. |
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#11
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If you had trouble seating the valve cover, the 2 red tabs on the valve cover were probably not seated correctly. If you forced the valve cover on by hitting it, you could have broken one of the tabs. I will post a pic of the tabs below. Codes will help point you in the correct direction, but if it is a vacuum leak, you could wind up chasing your tail. A vacuum leak could cause several codes to trigger. If the vacuum leak is intake related, spraying ether or starting fluid could help. This would probably only help on the 2 crank case vent tubes on the front of the valve covers. A leaking valve cover would allow air to be sucked in, but an oil leak should be present if this is the case.
For a cable & software, try BMWcoding.com. It will give you all the info needed. The cable will cost around 100 dollars. Make sure you buy the recommended cable. Google INPA cable & INPA or DIS software. Good Luck
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#12
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So it looks like the cover isn't seated correctly. One of the bolts is loose and can be turned by hand. What's the trick to getting it right before buttoning back on?
Also, are the coils supposed to be in specific order? |
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#13
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If you look at the pic of the bottom of the valve cover in the above pic, you must roll the 2 tabs into the bottom of the head. Look at the pic & look at the slot they must go in. Once you have it in correctly, all of the nuts will go on correctly. Until all of the nuts tighten correctly, the valve cover is not seated. The bad news is that you will most likely have to remove all of the coils, & possibly the injectors for clearance to roll the valve cover in the slots. The coils can be installed in any cylinder, as long is the wiring is connected properly.
I can feel your pain in knowing what has to be done! ![]() ![]() ![]()
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#14
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If you look at the 6th post in this thread, look at the pic on the 14th pic. You will see slot between the 1st & 2nd stud, there is a slotted out groove. The red plastic tab must be seated in that slot. I looked at all of my pics of the job, & can not find the pic I need. I will look threw some of backups if needed.
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#15
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HerbP you are the man hats off for having the know how and info ready!!! Cheers!!!
__________________
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#16
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Quote:
![]() ![]() ![]() Thanks for the complement! |
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#17
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Quote:
__________________
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#18
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Quote:
__________________
Once a 6'er, always a 6'er. |
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#19
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The TIS for the valve cover removal is different for both sides. There are a lot of tips that are not included in the TIS, that would be very helpful. The valve cover must come up fairly straight, to avoid damaging the 2 Eccentric Sensors that come through the rear of the valve covers. They cost around 450.0 each, so you must be very careful when removing the valve covers.
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#20
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What other tips for passenger side are there? it just doesn't want to sit.
What purpose do the red tabs serve anyway? I can see that it isn't sitting all the way with a mirror. Sent from my MB855 using Bimmer App |
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#21
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The red tabs have to fit in the notched part of the head. You will here it seat when it happens. Roll the bottom part of the valve cover in 1st, then let the top go down. The red tabs just keep the valve cover seated, to keep it in place. The passenger side is a little harder. You must loosen the AC drier to slide it out of the way, to get one of the coil packs out. You do not have to remove the fuel rail on the passenger side. The passenger side is just a bit tighter place to work the valve cover in & out.
If you have the valve cover off, just study the 2 red tabs & the 2 slots in the bottom of the head. Once you see what I am talking about, you will understand! It is very easy to get frustrated understanding this part of the installation. Plenty of beer usually helps at this point! Good Luck! |
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#22
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Major props to you HerbP. Medicus as well for giving some insight. This job was really stressing me out.
HerbP literally 5 minutes after our chat the stupid thing clicked in. You know your stuff and am grateful for your guidance. |
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#23
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Quote:
Been there, done that. ![]() It hard to understand that problem, until you face changing the valve cover. I am glad you got it seated, & that I could lend a helping hand! |
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