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X3 E83 (2004 - 2010)
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  #26  
Old 02-17-2013, 05:28 PM
josiah0352 josiah0352 is offline
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Thumbs up intake hose

Well after I replaced the intake hose which did have a small crack in it but not torn all the way through. The engine light did come back on As I was taking it apart aging to see if a clamp was loose I noticed a vacuum line at the front of the valve cover was not seated properly. I pushed it in until it clipped together and what do you know the Engine light turned off.
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  #27  
Old 02-18-2013, 07:06 AM
wyowolf wyowolf is offline
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Yes its exactly the way you say duh!!
How about the back panel??

Quote:
Originally Posted by Supercourse View Post
If you are referring to the rectangular box thing - the DISA valve - that had me puzzled too.

Put a finger behind the connector, a few mm. behind, and you will feel a metal loop with a tapered top.
Press that toward you, and the connector now slips right off.

Not obvious as it sits just a bit away from the connector. Not the more typical case of squeezing some plastic part of the connector itself.

When removing the DISA I hear you should take extra care when removing the lower torx fastener to avoid dropping it. Saves time hunting for it around the lower reaches of the oil separator pipes.
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  #28  
Old 02-18-2013, 08:55 AM
Supercourse Supercourse is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wyowolf View Post
How about the back panel??
Haven't done it myself, but sounds like you have to wrestle it out and try not to bend it too much.
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  #29  
Old 02-18-2013, 10:21 AM
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Panel by brake fluid resv the hardest part

Getting that curved panel by the brake res out and especially back in is what took the most time, the rest was quick and easy. Note when replacing the panel it hooks into position on the bottom. Probably could do it quicker next time.

This design has been the same for 10+ years. Why are the Germans so hard headed about admitting the design is bad and correct it. If the small tube was at the correct angle there would be no stress on it and thus no cracking probably. Something so simple drives me nuts. My company uses almost all German equipment and we run into this all the time. They over engineer stuff and absolutely refuse to correct a poor design that is a known fail point. I think they have a contest to take a simple part or process and see who can come up with the most screwed up and complicated design. Winner gets a case of Warsteiner.
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  #30  
Old 03-04-2013, 07:35 PM
am_ver am_ver is offline
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Ok - stuck at the back panel. How does that get removed? I removed the screw on the top right side - took out the 2 cables on the top side as well. The right side does wiggle - but feels like it is being held in place on the left (inside the bay). Do I need remove something, like another screw on the left - pull it at a specific angle? HELP!!




Quote:
Originally Posted by X3emist View Post
Getting that curved panel by the brake res out and especially back in is what took the most time, the rest was quick and easy. Note when replacing the panel it hooks into position on the bottom. Probably could do it quicker next time.

This design has been the same for 10+ years. Why are the Germans so hard headed about admitting the design is bad and correct it. If the small tube was at the correct angle there would be no stress on it and thus no cracking probably. Something so simple drives me nuts. My company uses almost all German equipment and we run into this all the time. They over engineer stuff and absolutely refuse to correct a poor design that is a known fail point. I think they have a contest to take a simple part or process and see who can come up with the most screwed up and complicated design. Winner gets a case of Warsteiner.
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  #31  
Old 03-05-2013, 07:21 AM
can0n4 can0n4 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by am_ver View Post
Ok - stuck at the back panel. How does that get removed? I removed the screw on the top right side - took out the 2 cables on the top side as well. The right side does wiggle - but feels like it is being held in place on the left (inside the bay). Do I need remove something, like another screw on the left - pull it at a specific angle? HELP!!
You need to remove the plastic screw holding it to the back of the engine compartment on the firewall. Its the same style that holds it up on the right side. To get back there you need to remove the microfilter and its holder in order to access the back of the engine. After you get both plastic screws out of the plastic wall, its a real PITA to get out, I just pulled hard and wiggled it until it came out.

Also as a heads up, I was able to get at my intake boot clamp from the bottom of the car by reaching up from below.
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  #32  
Old 03-05-2013, 08:53 AM
am_ver am_ver is offline
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Thanks very helpful! So there is another screw holding it -glad I didn't just yank it hard out. Whats the microfilter and where is it? Can you point it on one of the pics?

Quote:
Originally Posted by can0n4 View Post
You need to remove the plastic screw holding it to the back of the engine compartment on the firewall. Its the same style that holds it up on the right side. To get back there you need to remove the microfilter and its holder in order to access the back of the engine. After you get both plastic screws out of the plastic wall, its a real PITA to get out, I just pulled hard and wiggled it until it came out.

Also as a heads up, I was able to get at my intake boot clamp from the bottom of the car by reaching up from below.
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  #33  
Old 03-05-2013, 09:55 AM
Supercourse Supercourse is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by am_ver View Post
Whats the microfilter and where is it? Can you point it on one of the pics?
http://johnnyvest.hubpages.com/hub/B...e-How-To-Guide
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  #34  
Old 03-05-2013, 12:39 PM
am_ver am_ver is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Supercourse View Post
Thank you!!
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  #35  
Old 03-05-2013, 07:22 PM
can0n4 can0n4 is offline
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remove the filter, then remove the four T-30 torx bolts behind the filter. Next lift up and remove the microfilter compartment entirely. Now you can get behind the engine and around the sides.
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  #36  
Old 03-05-2013, 07:45 PM
X34ME X34ME is offline
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Any hints on removing the bottom screw on the intake valve? I'm having trouble accessing it.
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  #37  
Old 03-05-2013, 08:12 PM
am_ver am_ver is offline
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Yeah - I'm having problem at the same screw. The top right screw is out, but cannot seem to unscrew the one hidden on the bottom left. Any special tool folks used to unscrew that damn thing? I've already dropped two of the torx bits into the engine compartment area trying to unscrew it.
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  #38  
Old 03-06-2013, 12:14 PM
am_ver am_ver is offline
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Update - both the screws are off. Now working on removing the clamps holding the intake boot!!
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  #39  
Old 03-06-2013, 03:10 PM
am_ver am_ver is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by can0n4 View Post
Also as a heads up, I was able to get at my intake boot clamp from the bottom of the car by reaching up from below.
Can0n4 - I'm on the last step - removing the bottom clamp. Apparently even the screw is not visible on it from the top. Was that the case with you as well because of which you went from the bottom? Were you able to just slide under the car - because at this state I don't want to run the car to put it on ramps.

Guys - did one else experience this issue of screw not being visible - is there a workaround?
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Last edited by am_ver; 03-06-2013 at 04:31 PM.
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  #40  
Old 03-06-2013, 07:12 PM
can0n4 can0n4 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by am_ver View Post

Guys - did one else experience this issue of screw not being visible - is there a workaround?
There is no easy answer for this one. I've see two methods used, one is where folks come in from the top with a 6mm socket and a swivel extension and a foot long extension to get the length.

The method I used was removing the plastic undertray, remove the metal skid plate (not sure if this is necessary) then reach up from underneath with a flat head screwdriver and just get a couple turns to loosen. I jacked the car up where it was at, then went under. If you don't have a jack you can try just by lying underneath it. It also helped to use a really short flat head screwdriver on the screw.

Let me know how you make out with it.
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  #41  
Old 03-07-2013, 09:23 AM
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Mine was east

Guess I got lucky but with an extra extension I easily reached mine from the top, guess whoever put mine on tightened the screw from up top so they had it turned the right way. However, with the guard around the brake reservoir removed can't you reach it even if it is down under?
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  #42  
Old 03-07-2013, 11:11 AM
am_ver am_ver is offline
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Giving up - cannot reach the bottom screw. The boot doesn't look like it has any tears. Re-assembling everything without the replacing the part. Thanks for all your help guys!
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  #43  
Old 03-08-2013, 05:11 PM
wyowolf wyowolf is offline
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Hey Guys just did this, take off the micro filter housing, four screws and it tilts/lifts up. Made taking out the panel WAY easier...

putting it back was a pain...
\
the boot wasnt too bad, the screws werent too far down...

took about two hours... once i got the filter housing out.... way easier...
save yourself some trouble... 4 screws under the filter and just tilt the front and pull out...

note , screws stay IN the housing...
http://www.bmwserviceguides.com/e46-...-malfunctions/
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  #44  
Old 03-09-2013, 12:51 PM
jvest2000 jvest2000 is offline
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Great post. I had the dual lean codes logged in the ECU and sure enough it was the good ol' intake boot. I taped the splits until my replacement arrives and i will be installing myself soon. Here are my photos just to show another real world case of where these boots crack ...




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  #45  
Old 03-09-2013, 04:23 PM
can0n4 can0n4 is offline
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thats where my boot cracked as well.
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  #46  
Old 08-07-2013, 06:42 PM
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Well, mine is cracked and the replacement is on the way.

One question... Do I need to disconnect the battery before unplugging the DISA connector?
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  #47  
Old 08-13-2013, 06:49 PM
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Got the boot replaced and reset the codes, no SES light after 85 miles but I have a rough idle at start-up. It's kind of erratic and tends to go away once fully warmed up. I think I must have dislodged the grommet behind the idle air control valve... or it could just be a bad valve. The engine idled fine before but I had to twist, pull and pry pretty hard to get that small hose off of it.

Any thoughts or similar experiences anyone? Solutions?
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  #48  
Old 08-15-2013, 12:13 PM
jdauria jdauria is offline
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nice write up, one thing I would add: when installed the new boot, make sure that little tab on the end of the boot is inserted correctly.
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  #49  
Old 09-17-2014, 07:59 PM
jma1992 jma1992 is offline
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Just did this yesterday. I couldn't get the brake reservoir guard out so I left it in as well as the disa valve. I removed the microfilter housing though and that made it a bit easier as well as having a foot long flexible extension.

Great write up.
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  #50  
Old 09-29-2014, 03:23 PM
GTR-34 GTR-34 is offline
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what codes did you guys have?
mine says that the first o2 sensor should be done but I got told that it could also a leak somewhere in the intake.
or do you have any ideas?

peter
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