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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 02-17-2013, 08:33 AM
e39brit e39brit is offline
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e39 with m52 engine cvv change

Had a misfire a few weeks back due to spark plug recesses filling up with oil so replaced rocker cover gasket which comes complete with the spark plug recess gaskets. Changed spark plug connectors as well as oil had perished some of the rubber boots which can also cause a misfire. Replaced spark plugs while I was at it while coil packs were off. Did oil stand gasket a week later, which cured my oil leaks altogether. Decided to do my cvv valve this week as I had heard that can cause problems too. At the time it just used to burn a bit of oil at startup and thought replacing the cvv might cure startup smoke. Changed valve no problem, with 2 new hoses and inlet manifold o ring . My valve is type 11151703484 . Discovered oil return pipe to dipstick tube was blocked as was dipstick tube and the oil drain outlet to the base of old cvv. Cleared dipstick tube and connected everything up thinking good job done and engine should run and breathe better now - WRONG !! Took it for a test drive and it was billowing smoke and eventually was running that roughly that i pulled up and rang the AA breakdown. He said that the cvv was faulty as engine was really sucking when he took the oil filler cap off. Can't believe a brand new valve can be faulty - stripped it down and diaphragm and spring are in place and in perfect condition. Am at a loss as how to solve this unless I buy another brand new cvv - with no gurantee that one will be any better as I cannot honestly see anything wrong with the new one i have already fitted. The irony of all this is that the original valve was blocked with gunge at the bottom of the cone and the diaphragm was totally shot as well but the car ran better with a knackered valve than it does with a brand new one !! Any suggestions would be welcome folks.
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  #2  
Old 02-17-2013, 09:03 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Take your time and go through this DIY carefully:


Oil Line ---> Vanos, CCV, ICV and Alternator Air Duct (E39)
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=379225
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  #3  
Old 02-17-2013, 03:22 PM
e39brit e39brit is offline
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Mein Auto: e39 528se auto saloon
Unhappy thanks cn90

I read your post on this along with several others before i decided to replace my pcv/cvv/oil seperator valve - call it what you will. Basically I think the new part is duff as it is not a genuine BMW part but supposedly a german made OEM quality item bought from ebay. I think solution with the best outcome is for me to return it to the seller explaining that it doesn't work and order a genuine part from my local BMW dealer. Maybe the diaphragm in the new valve is too stiff or stuck so that it is staying open - yesterday it was creating massive suction at the oil filler cap so the diaphragm was nor being pulled shut by the inlet manifold at idle. Today it is not sucking at idle at the filler cap and was not smoking appreciably at the exhaust . I was hoping the diaphragm had come unstuck all by itself and that whatever oil had been drawn into the engine would burn itself off , but as soon as you drive the car it still billows smoke.
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  #4  
Old 02-18-2013, 01:04 AM
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16valex 16valex is offline
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Sorry to break the bad news but you have huge issue with piston rings. This explained why the old Knackered CCV ran better than the new one.

To confirm you need to do a compression test.
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  #5  
Old 02-18-2013, 05:08 AM
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diggyd357 diggyd357 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 16valex View Post
Sorry to break the bad news but you have huge issue with piston rings. This explained why the old Knackered CCV ran better than the new one.

To confirm you need to do a compression test.
+1......what he said.
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  #6  
Old 02-18-2013, 05:17 AM
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DennisCooper! DennisCooper! is offline
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Hi,

If you've not already done so, register on the UK centric http://forum.bmw5.co.uk/ forum and have a look there for a member 'Alpinaman' (tell him I sent you!) - he's a very very knowledgeable mechanic and is based in the Peaks area of Derbyshire and will I'm sure be able to help you out.

Cheers, Dennis!
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  #7  
Old 02-18-2013, 08:36 AM
e39brit e39brit is offline
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Smile cvv problem

Thanks for the advice folks.
Fitted another new oil separator valve today and its running fine now - not smoking at all from exhaust and no oil leaks from rocker valve or oil filter housing.
Just goes to show that you cannot trust a brand new part not to be faulty.
The diaphragm on the first new one was obviously sticking open long enough for the crankcase to develop a massive enough vacuum to suck all the oil up through the dipstick drain and blow it out through the inlet manifold, cylinders, cats and exhaust. As soon as i fitted the 2nd new valve it stopped smoking straight away so miraculously no damage to oil seals, cats or hydraulically locked engine cylinders !!
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  #8  
Old 02-18-2013, 10:06 AM
JKRIT JKRIT is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 16valex View Post
Sorry to break the bad news but you have huge issue with piston rings. This explained why the old Knackered CCV ran better than the new one.

To confirm you need to do a compression test.
-1 on the piston rings, I guess. Glad the new valve solved your problem.
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  #9  
Old 02-18-2013, 10:20 AM
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16valex 16valex is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JKRIT View Post
-1 on the piston rings, I guess. Glad the new valve solved your problem.
Glad to be wrong for this any day.
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  #10  
Old 02-18-2013, 10:29 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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O.P.,

Since you used an aftermarket CCV, I suggest that you use BMW CCV, and check all hoses and dipstick housing (I know you cleaned it already but blow compressed air to the dipstick housing to be sure).
You should be hood to go.

If not, then check other items (compression etc.) later.
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