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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 3 Series / 4 Series > E30 (1982 - 1993)

E30 (1982 - 1993)
God's Chariot. The E30 was produced primarily from 1982 through 1991. The cabriolet was the one exception which was produced through 1993.

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  #51  
Old 02-21-2013, 02:01 AM
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Thumbs up Lock plates have arrived

a friend of mine who went to South Africa, walked into a local dealer asking if they stock the rear wheel-bearing lock-plates ?Click image for larger version

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Guess what, they have to because they are service items !
and my local dealer has put them on order with Germany, since beginning December
For those of you who don't know, Namibia gets their parts from South Africa, not Germany
When I tried to install them, I realised that the previous owner had installed normal nuts instead of the Collar nut it is supposed to have.
Now where do I get those

In the meantime I have serviced my engine, replaced timing belts & made sure all is like they intended in München
For some it might seem going overboard, but I make sure the cam is in the right position. Click image for larger version

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To rely on marks, especially on such an old engine is putting too much trust in your predecessors
I saw the cam adjuster spring & pin were missing, but since the adjuster is locked into place I did this by feel
Also the TPS FT switch was not working. Some contact leaner fixed this & another is on order with Febi.
The car is starting to pull better now

Later this week I intend to look at some Recaro seats, that are meant for a Golf 3
To see if they will fit, I removed the passenger seat Click image for larger version

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I think the carpet still looks amazingly passable
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Last edited by Nick323; 02-21-2013 at 06:12 AM. Reason: Collared Nuts needed
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  #52  
Old 04-24-2013, 04:46 AM
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Mein Auto: 323i E30 2-door
Question How do I lock the rear stub axle to the hub

Work caught up with me & a job in India.
Then I had to wait aaages for the OEM rear axle lock nut
Finally when I got that, I found that only the lock nut fits & not the wheel-bearing lock plates
Any of you got some photo's of how the rear stub axle is to be locked to the hub ?
or has my stub axle been cut or can one fit a shorter one

Whilst doing that I had centering rings machined Click image for larger version

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ID:	372893 by giving the engineering shop a sample hub with rim as you can see in the picture.
Well they got it wrong

On the 2'nd attempt though they got it right Click image for larger version

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Finally my goodies arrived from garagistic Click image for larger version

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ID:	372894 and I now had time to fit the speedo gears.
I leave the rest for later, as I am keen to drive this car in order to see what needs to be done next.

One of the appies screwed the expansion tank (which I am using from a Golf) cap on skew causing coolant loss & an air lock
I then flushed the system with DICAFAS and added water with 3L Caltex Antifreeze.
Whilst bleeding it, my guys managed to break a blafe of the fan Click image for larger version

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I normaly jack the left front tyre up to bleed the system.
How they got that right, I don't know
Of course this punctured the radiator Click image for larger version

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Luckily Radiators here price about 100 USD and a Summit fan about 15 USD.
The only question is if a stock 323 raditor can handle a 2.7L turbocharged M20 motor
It seems the same Thermocool radiator is also used in the E36 M52B28 version. So I hope it can
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  #53  
Old 05-22-2013, 01:55 AM
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Thumbs up Finally it is running

Finally I got my Bimmer on the road -I'm not talking legalities here
This morning I did my Dynorun DynoIT - N118-991W.pdf after tuning her up.
You can see a before run, which is which I did after changing Timing belt etc. & the after which is simply by tuning the VAF. The VAF is the only way this Motronic sees what load the engine is put under, as there is no proper TPS
The Average is that of the 325's I have done with Cam, head, K&N, Tuned header exhausts & Unichip tuning.
So if this is indeed a low compression 2.7L motor it has a lot more potential

I posted a movie of this on Facebook, as I do not know how to do this here

The idea is to use it as a parts runner for now & fix the problems at they pop up
Once I am happy I intend to remove the motor with gearbox, to see what motor it is. Then to fit a performance clutch & Garagistic high-tech bushings with a short shifter.
Whilst I do this I intend getting the upholstery done. I am still hoping for a bit more sporty front seats to be found
And at the same time the panelbeaters can transform it into Cinderella
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  #54  
Old 05-22-2013, 04:15 AM
ditoedt325 ditoedt325 is offline
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Project 323 from the ashes...

Wow
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  #55  
Old 06-03-2013, 03:40 AM
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Post What still needs to be done & obtained

I have now put an uneventful 200 km's on the E 30 Beemer 323 and need to get a few more things before investigating who the best value-for-money panelbeater & upholsterer is.
Click image for larger version

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As you can see in a previous reply to this thread the seats suit my grandfather, I need something more sporty
Then there are a bunch of other things, such as:
Complete OEM typeToolkit
LPHV in-tank fuel pump
Oil filter adaptor to mount a oil cooler
Window washer reservoir cap
Radiator cowling or shroud

The first thing I came to realise is that the car did not have the bottom end power I wanted & did not run smoothly, so I made this little x-piece exhaust mod. Click image for larger version

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The Bung in the exhaust is for fitting a wide band lambda sensor. We do not have a closed loop system on these cars in SA, as we did not know what emissions where in those days

I knew that the stock VAF is not what I wanted.
So I am now looking for a replacement MAF sensor. Click image for larger version

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The person who did this used a Siemens Mass Airflow Meter (MAF) (p/n 1 703 275) out of an E36 328i. But where to get such in Namibia
So in I decided to fist check how the signals from the present VAF changed under load and temperature Click image for larger version

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I did manage to fix the switch-type TPS, but did order a new one just to be sure of no failings down the road.
Disapointment set in when I discovered 3 months after ordering, that I now received the incorrect unit Click image for larger version

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  #56  
Old 06-20-2013, 05:01 AM
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Cool Recaro install

The 4'th of June 2013 was my lucky day
Click image for larger version

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Not only did I manage to pick up 2 Recaro seats for R 2000 the pair (200 USD)
but also the Siemens Mass Airflow Meter p/n 1 703 275 I was looking for
and a fan shroud/cowling, glovebox cover & washer bottle lid

Strangely enough, my guys could not wait to get the new seats in
Click image for larger version

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They were made for the Japanese Polo4, but could be adapted quite easily

In the meantime I had somebody wanting to thrust a Alpine Turbo manifold on me Click image for larger version

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This plus the IC, plumbing, Turbo etc. for 6 grand.
In the end I passed this deal up, as Alpine did not do the job the way I would do it. Somewhwere the German craftsman rears its head again

Also I can get this new cast manifold for 2500 and then use proper components for the rest...Click image for larger version

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I am now busy installing the Unichip, to log initial values for the VAF etc.
Also the MAF installation will probably be quite a lengthy piece
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  #57  
Old 07-08-2013, 08:25 AM
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Post VAF to MAF conversion

Over the WE I got down to doing the VAF to MAF conversion. Click image for larger version

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It would have been finished, had I not succumbed to heavy lower back pain
The TPS also started mucking me about This unit seems to be as scarce as rocking-horse manure

I picked up a Siemens Mass Airflow Meter (MAF) (p/n 1 703 275) out of an E36 328i from the breakers, but that turned out to be faulty , so I then got one from NUK (not the baby food company) Click image for larger version

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My apprentice had to wire in the Unichip, which will be used to manage the signals Click image for larger version

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The stock Motronic system does not detects the power we demand from the motor, such as the later units, that use a carbon-track TPS for that.
It simply gets told how much air is flowing through the VAF and adjusts the fuelling & timing according to that.

I decided to affix a MAP sensor (also if I want to turbo later on) Click image for larger version

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I then used the Unichip Click image for larger version

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I could have used the stock airbox, but decided to rather use the Apollo in order to build a CAI Click image for larger version

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  #58  
Old 07-12-2013, 02:46 AM
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Lightbulb Dyno Figures

Luckily we did not have too many cars on the Dyno this week, so I could complete the work on my Bimmer.
What was most important to me, was to ensure that the VAF to MAF conversion is workable

I normaly trickle water on the radiator to keep the engine temp down.
In this case it sucked the Summitt fan into the Radiator
Click image for larger version

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This is the first time in 1000's of Cars Dynoed that this happened
Luckily the Radiator survived that

I always had a intermittent starting problem.
Intermittent enough that I could not trace it
On the Dyno it also happened and I found out that the ign switch was not tight on the column, due to old age. Click image for larger version

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So we used this ingenious trick to convince it to stay

I am most happy with the result
Click image for larger version

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Run 3 is actually run 2 after we modified the exhaust with an X-piece for more torque
Run 2 is the final run done yesterday after my MAF conversion and tuning that using the Unichip

Throttle response is immediate and crisp
No more feeling that the Accelerator is connected by rubber band to the throttle

Now the car is fun to drive
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  #59  
Old 08-06-2013, 02:42 AM
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Question Dashboard repair advice needed, please ?

I have now put well over 1000 km's on this car and am happy
The car pulls well & its fuel usage is acceptable

For the next move I will have to repair the dasboard
Click image for larger version

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This looks disgusting & the dashmat on there is something that wants me to dry-heave everytime I go around a corner
Buying a new one from the stealership will cost over 2 grand in US$

Is there anyone who has repaired or rebuilt a dash & then had it last a few years ?
Pleaze

I have consulted and it seems that first pouring some bonding agent into the crack and then covering it (I would use leather) would be the way to go
Since my forté is engines and their management- I would like to give this to somebody, but locally nobody is showing confidence
So, if I am going to attempt this myself I need some good & reliable instructions
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  #60  
Old 08-06-2013, 10:09 AM
ditoedt325 ditoedt325 is offline
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Project 323 from the ashes...

I have a buddy who did his own dash years ago using epoxy to fill the cracks, once it covered you couldn't tell. Keep us posted.
Good luck.
Dt


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  #61  
Old 08-12-2013, 05:50 AM
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I would be most keen to find out what kind of epoxy is used here
I would think something that flexes (not bondo) ?
maybe even Silicone ?
From what I understand the guys who have done this, first apply a bit of superglue to stop the crack and then a filling agent...
It would really be nice to get some more info here
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  #62  
Old 08-12-2013, 08:51 PM
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We just did it to a crack in the dash of an '87 E30 (ACC and then black RTV), but the crack was tiny.
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  #63  
Old 09-04-2013, 06:11 AM
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Unhappy Bosch parts ?

6 weeks ago I was audacious enough to ask my loal Bosch agent
Quote:
I am busy rebuilding a E30 BMW 323 20 March 1984. Vin number is SA32360151

I am in need of the following parts:
ITEM BMW # BOSCH#
1. Additional Electric Fan 17 401 373 176 ref 0 130 703 206
2. Ignition Wires 12 121 710 664 ref 0 986 356 323
3. Distributor Cap 12 111 725 070 ref 1 235 522 365
4. Rotor 12 111 734 110 ref 1 234 332 347
5. Distributor Cap Cover 12 111 710 553 ref 1 230 591 008
6. In tank Fuel pump H.V.L.P 0 580 314 070
7. In Line Fuel pump 16 141 178 751 ref 0 580 464 032
8. Throttle Valve Switch 0 280 120 321
10 days later I again bugged them

Now they replied after again requesting a price
Quote:
This is all OE part numbers cross ref to the Bosch, Bosch is the OE supplier with a agreement with BMW that this products will not be available after market. Unfortunately we will not be able to assis


I thought Bosch / Diesel Electric was part of the aftermarket chain supplying parts for these vehicles
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  #64  
Old 10-25-2013, 01:39 AM
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Smile Some more parts arrived

I did not believe the local Bosch agent & tried sourcing my parts directly from Bosch South Africa Click image for larger version

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So I am a lot closer already

Then I also received a order from Febi in Germany to spruce my toy up some Click image for larger version

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This also included the rear parking (emergency to the dissidents) brake assembly Click image for larger version

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My wife will love me for this, as she was not fond of the Fittipaldi take-off technique she had to apply whenever she had to pull off up an incline
The main issue why I got a kit was not resolved, as the backing plate hole that held the spring in was worn Click image for larger version

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But then living here we can always make a plan
Simply weld on a clip from another vehicle Click image for larger version

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So now comes decision time.
Do I strip the car now for panelbeating & spray painting, or do I drive it through the summer holidays and tackle this early 2014

Lookie look what I found amongs my spares Click image for larger version

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So now only to hope that the motor has low compression internals....
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  #65  
Old 10-25-2013, 10:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick323 View Post
Lookie look what I found amongs my spares Attachment 403913
So now only to hope that the motor has low compression internals....
I'm surprised you've fallen for that gizmo. I thought you were smarter than that, Nick. You can do the same thing by removing the vacuum line to your fuel pressure regulator and plugging the hose.
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Last edited by hornhospital; 10-25-2013 at 10:43 AM.
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  #66  
Old 10-28-2013, 02:28 AM
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Fuel pressure regulator- Malpassi

Ken I am not sure what you are getting at
Malpassi is one of the most respected names in Adjustable Fuel pressure regulators
Or do you not take an increase in intake pressure (read boost) into account when metering fuel ?
The stock FPR does actually increase Fuel pressure to a certain extent under boost, but not to my satisfaction
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Old 10-29-2013, 02:16 AM
Billwill Billwill is offline
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Hi Nick...I have only now read through this major undertaking that you have gone through!

I bought one of the first two door 323i E30s available in SA...bought it in about May 1984.

It had cloth seats, sunroof and power windows and was in the light metallic blue color.

In 1992 it got stolen from me in Johannesburg.

About 9 months later I got a phone call from some cop in Swaziland saying that they believed they had my car in their pound there.

I went to Swaziland...four hour drive...and indentified my poor car.

The thieves were trying to get this car into Mozambique from Swaziland at night by cutting through the border fence when the Swazi border guards spotted them and opened fire...shot one guy in the stomach and shot the other guys nose off...noseless guy ran away.

Also shot out most windows, the dash instruments and the some bullet holes in the bodywork up front and at the rear and the car had been standing in the hot sun for about 6 months.

I did about 4 trips to Swaziland to try get my car back but eventually gave it up......the burocracy and corruption was just too much too handle....what basically happens is that they make sure you cannot get your car back so it eventually goes on a police auction at which time some cop buys it for next to nothing!

Some time later I attended a court hearing in Johannesburg regarding this theft but the now-recovered thief failed to show up and is still missing......this is Africa!

As regards fixing your dashboard cracks....I use the Pratley "Wonda Fix Car" epoxy...this is a black epoxy that can be used to fix black car dashboards...remains slightly flexible.

What I do is cut the edges of the crack off so that the edges are below the surface.

Then I take some "Prestick" stickit which is the white Plastercine-type stuff that you use to stick notices up on a notice board.

I smear a bit of Vaseline or Silicone on a good section of dashboard and press some Prestick over it to pick up the "grain" of the dashboard and then carefully lift it and spray some silicone over the section that has picked up the grain.

I then fill the dash crack with the Wonda Fix epoxy mix to level with the dash and carefully press the piece of Prestick over the top, making sure the grain is running in the correct direction.

I then pull off this Prestick about 4 hours later and hopefully have a good "grain" showing over the previous crack.
This is probably not needed if you intend covering the dash in leather but the Pratley Wonda Fix Car epoxy is the right epoxy to use!

I miss that old two door 323i of mine....wish now that I did get it back and fixed it up again!

Last edited by Billwill; 10-29-2013 at 02:24 AM.
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  #68  
Old 11-05-2013, 12:49 AM
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Angry Africa wins again

Billwill, I feel for you
Living in Namibia we quite often hear of people trying to recover their stolen Cars or Motorcycles from neighbouring Angola.
It must be hell on earth to know where your pride & joy is standing, just to find that Africa is flashing you the ugly
Our legal system has collapsed to such a degree that most people do not even bother taking legal action, as the case just gets postponed indefinitely

Thanks for giving me the Prestic tip, as these brand names are availiable from my local Midas
You will read about my dash fix early next year- thanks
Right now I am too busy to check the oil....
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Old 11-05-2013, 09:49 AM
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hornhospital hornhospital is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick323 View Post
Ken I am not sure what you are getting at
Malpassi is one of the most respected names in Adjustable Fuel pressure regulators
Or do you not take an increase in intake pressure (read boost) into account when metering fuel ?
The stock FPR does actually increase Fuel pressure to a certain extent under boost, but not to my satisfaction
Apologies, Nick! I had forgotten you were going FI on the car. I thought "Nick's gone 'round the bend if he thinks just jacking up the fuel pressure will boost the horsepower!" It will, if you have a similar boost in intake air pressure!
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guessing gets expensive...drivinfaster
nothing is more expensive than a cheap BMW...c4harpe13

Ken Kanne, Silverhill, AL, E36 Forum Mod/Craigslist addict/Hoarder of all sorts of stuff
BMW-CCA #441426
1995 318is "Bebe"; 1993 325is "Elvira" 1985 635CSi "Katja" 1984 633CSi "Sylvia"
HAVE I HAD MY MEDS YET?

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  #70  
Old 11-07-2013, 12:18 AM
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Nick323 Nick323 is online now
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Location: Windhoek, Namibia, Africa
 
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Mein Auto: 323i E30 2-door
Not to worry Ken, I have lost my mind a long time ago
So long that I am not even missing it anymore....
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1984 323 currently being resurrected from the ashes
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Old 11-18-2013, 05:01 AM
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Nick323 Nick323 is online now
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Location: Windhoek, Namibia, Africa
 
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Mein Auto: 323i E30 2-door
Unhappy What a bummer

On Friday I had to quickly collect a customer & as I turned a downhill left hand turn I heard a horrible ratcheting sound from the rear.
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This morning I had a look and found that the left inner hub spun when the car was in gear Click image for larger version

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At least it was not my LSD playing up
Disassembly found this explosion to have taken place Click image for larger version

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What causes this
Some time ago we had re-packed the inner & outer CV joints and found nothing amiss

As this car has been worked on, could the sideshaft be too short
Any measurements I could take ?
I would say either this is a part that has been failing for some time. But then I did not put stress on it, when it failed...
Or something had been cobbled together incorrectly ?

While at it I might as well bore you with the outer (wheel) side Click image for larger version

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Does this look correct ?

You can see by their newness, that we never installed the rear wheel-bearing lock-plates, as I do not know in which position they come.
Somebody got a exploded diagram ?
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1984 323 currently being resurrected from the ashes
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Old 11-25-2013, 05:19 AM
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Nick323 Nick323 is online now
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Question Replacement of gearbox input shaft seal

Here you cannot get aftermarket CV joints etc. but have to buy the whole sideshaft assembly from your friendly stealership

I have found a 2'nd hand sideshaft and hope that will be serviceable.Click image for larger version

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I also saw that the one output flange on the diff was weeping, so I bought 2 new ones from a bearing supply house at less than 10 USD each.
I continued stripping which I had wanted to do for some time because of the Gearbox oil leakClick image for larger version

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I sent the propshaft for reconditioning, as it was out already.
Luckily it prooved good except for the rubber of the centre bearing. Another 100 USD bit the dust on a new centre bearing.
I suppose it was the oil leak that caused a rather mangled Guibo Click image for larger version

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But on closer inspection it prooved to be the seal of the shifter input shaft. Click image for larger version

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How difficult is it to replace that
According to the manual it looks like a pain to reach
I will have to remove the gearbox & motor next year to spray the car, but would not want to soil another guibo till then
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1984 323 currently being resurrected from the ashes
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Old 11-25-2013, 10:10 AM
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hornhospital hornhospital is offline
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Location: In the Grumpy Chair
 
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Mein Auto: 1995 318is / 1993 325is
Nick, slip the snap band off the front of the "Tee" (toward the transmission), then drive the pin out (remember which way the Tee fits!) and you can remove it. You'll want to replace the yellow sponge pad in the Tee. The seal is in the pocket around the shaft. I managed to pry it out with a seal hook (looks like an icepick with the end bent), then drove the new one in with a seal driver I made from aluminum shafting. You want it barely smaller than the seal OD, with a hole in the center big enough for the shaft to slide in. Yes, it's a PITA, but worth it.


$100 for a CSB???? They're like $30 here.
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Quotes to live by:
guessing gets expensive...drivinfaster
nothing is more expensive than a cheap BMW...c4harpe13

Ken Kanne, Silverhill, AL, E36 Forum Mod/Craigslist addict/Hoarder of all sorts of stuff
BMW-CCA #441426
1995 318is "Bebe"; 1993 325is "Elvira" 1985 635CSi "Katja" 1984 633CSi "Sylvia"
HAVE I HAD MY MEDS YET?


Last edited by hornhospital; 11-25-2013 at 10:12 AM.
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  #74  
Old 11-25-2013, 11:17 PM
Billwill Billwill is offline
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Location: South Africa
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 501
Mein Auto: BMW E30 318i 1991
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick323 View Post
Here you cannot get aftermarket CV joints etc. but have to buy the whole sideshaft assembly from your friendly stealership

I have found a 2'nd hand sideshaft and hope that will be serviceable.Attachment 409307
I also saw that the one output flange on the diff was weeping, so I bought 2 new ones from a bearing supply house at less than 10 USD each.
I continued stripping which I had wanted to do for some time because of the Gearbox oil leakAttachment 409308
I sent the propshaft for reconditioning, as it was out already.
Luckily it prooved good except for the rubber of the centre bearing. Another 100 USD bit the dust on a new centre bearing.
I suppose it was the oil leak that caused a rather mangled Guibo Attachment 409309
But on closer inspection it prooved to be the seal of the shifter input shaft. Attachment 409310
How difficult is it to replace that
According to the manual it looks like a pain to reach
I will have to remove the gearbox & motor next year to spray the car, but would not want to soil another guibo till then

Remember to pre-load the prop center bearing by moving it about 5 mm towards the engine before tightening up.

Also the new Guibo should have arrows marked on the side....make sure the bolts follow the pattern of the arrows....I think the bolts must go in the way the arrows are pointing but I am too lazy to do a search for that now..the Haynes Manual has the answer to both the center bearing and the arrows on the Guibo. Failure to do these actions results in early failure of the new components
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  #75  
Old 02-14-2014, 04:09 AM
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Nick323 Nick323 is online now
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Mein Auto: 323i E30 2-door
Post Stripping her down

We started stripping my 323 so that it can go for a respray etc.
Basically I want it to look nice again

Engine & gearbox were also removed, so I could see what engine I got.
The Gearbox is a ZF 5 speed box is a Typ S 5-16. this has a small oil leak at the gear lever input shaft. I cannot find how strong these particular ZF boxes are
The engine was reasonably tight, but I wanted to find out if it indeed had been prepped for Turbocharging...

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I got Fillemon to clean the motor before disassembly.
This way no crud falls into the internals

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Kenneth then cracked the headbolts loose.
We use a Torque wrench to see how tight the bolts were & if they were all equally torqued down. I know some smirk at that, but after a few 100 motors you get a feeling on how to do it. It is a bit of a guesstimate

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The bore looks nice & clean with a minimum of a ridge

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The head also does not look too bad, except that it was overskimmed by .7mm
I could get away with re-skimming it (to re-fit a M20 head without cleaning it up is looking for trouble) but that is not my way of doing things as that also screws up the valve-gear geometry amongst other things.
The only answer is another head or engine assembly

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It is always a good idea to mark all components, so that they can go back where they are supposed to & to aid with fault-finding.

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I had to do some precise measuring here to mark TDC as well as dispacement, Compression Ratio etc.
We forgot to take pictures of cci'ng the combustion chamber etc.

For those of you who are wondering what my plans are:
This is supposed to be a powerful, but reliable car.
One that I can drive to Oshakati or Cape Town with, without needing Roadassist on speed dial.
So if you think I am overly cautious/conservative, I am- always
I treat my customers vehicles like I treat mine
My 3.8 Buick equipped Hilux lasted 20 years before I sold it...
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