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  #126  
Old 01-30-2013, 02:25 PM
bimmerman420 bimmerman420 is offline
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Location: Oak Forest
 
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Mein Auto: 2000 bmw 328 is
Tunnel ride!

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  #127  
Old 02-08-2013, 04:00 PM
cruisingbimmer's Avatar
cruisingbimmer cruisingbimmer is offline
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Location: Land of the Free and Home of the Brave
 
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Mein Auto: 2009 BMW 328i
Great video! Made me want to go out and find a tunnel to drive through!
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  #128  
Old 02-24-2013, 10:43 PM
californiawills californiawills is offline
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Location: california
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 4
Mein Auto: car
Quote:
Originally Posted by KrisL View Post
Here are the top 10 things that anyone considering a new or used BMW should know. I'm going to make this a sticky - feel free to add on to it!
  1. Most newer BMWs require synthetic oil and premium fuel. Do not give your car less than it requires.
  2. Contrary to popular belief, parts and labor on BMWs is not more than the competition; however, BMWs are not as reliable as Japanese cars and they do require more maintenance.
  3. If your car is out of warranty, find yourself a competent independent mechanic. Their labor rates tend to be about half that of dealers. http://www.bimrs.org/ lists such shops.
  4. Buy a Bentley repair manual for you car. Even if you don't work on your car yourself, it's good to be an informed consumer (example: if your check engine light illuminates, Autozone will plug into your car for free and give you the car's trouble code. You can cross-reference it in the Bentley manual to see what's wrong).
  5. Historically, manual transmissions are more reliable that automatic or steptronic transmissions.
  6. BMWs have great brakes - this is due in part to the rather soft pads and rotors they use. Don't expect them to last more than 30-50k miles. The rotors generally wear at the same rate as the pads so 'machining' the rotors OR replacing pads without rotors is not recommended. There is a 'brake pad low' warning light that is triggered by a wear sensor that will illuminate on your dash when you are due for new brakes. It looks like this: . When you replace your brakes, you also need to replace the wear sensors ($10-20 each). There's one on the front left wheel and one on the rear right wheel. Parts for all 4 rotors, pads, and sensors are generally $200-500 and labor is about the same.
  7. The 'sport package' available on most BMWs is usually considered a necessary option by enthusiasts. It usually includes better (bolstered) seats, stiffer suspension (better handling), as well as larger wheels and tires. One caveat: It also comes with summer only tires that are NOT suitable for ANY slushy/snowy/icy conditions. If you live in an area that gets snow, it's highly recommended that you buy a second set of wheels with dedicated snow tires.
  8. It's fairly common for OEM tires to only last 10-20k miles. Price out replacements on www.TireRack.com to prevent being shocked: It can cost $600-1500 for replacement rubber. Also remember that tires are the #1 performance mod available to you! There's a significant difference between cheap all-season tires and good summer-only tires. Ask any questions in the Tires, Wheels, and Brakes forum.
  9. BMW engines are tuned very well from the factory. It's very difficult to get more than a few horsepower out of intakes, exhausts, chips, headers, etc. (the newer the car, the more true this is)....unless, of course, you're talking about the N54 twin-turbo (335i, 535i, etc), in which case, completely disregard what I just said!
  10. The BMW Car Club of America (BMW CCA) is a great organization- membership ($48/yr) entitles you to a free subscription to the monthly magazine Roundel, discounts on parts at most BMW dealers, high performance driving schools/car control clinics/autocrosses, local gatherings/rallys/dinners, as well as a $500-1500 discount on your next new or CPO BMW (you must be a member for at least a year prior to purchase - and this transaction is completely independent of the dealer - you receive a rebate check after purchasing the car for at your dealer-negotiated price). Join here and if you found this post useful, use me as your referrer (Kris Linquist #170334)
I agree with you.
But these following three check....


1.Exterior: Take a look at the exterior of the car properly.
The moment you see a dent or a scratch think twice before buying it since it may have been involved in an accident.

2.Engine: Lift the hood and inspect the condition of the engine.
Even if you are not an expert at such things, you can definitely look for anything suspicious like excess oil splattered over different components and things like that.
These will actually help you in making a decision whether to purchase the vehicle. Also check for the various oil or fluid levels of the car. If any of the components look extremely dirty then it may mean that there might be an issue with it.

3.Test-drive: Never buy a car before test driving it, even if it is a used BMW.
Tacoma citizens, amongst others in US have faced numerous issues in the past just because they did not perform this test before buying the vehicle.
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  #129  
Old 08-09-2013, 11:16 PM
Dave 20T's Avatar
Dave 20T Dave 20T is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KrisL View Post
Here are the top 10 things that anyone considering a new or used BMW should know. I'm going to make this a sticky - feel free to add on to it!
  1. Most newer BMWs require synthetic oil and premium fuel. Do not give your car less than it requires.
  2. Contrary to popular belief, parts and labor on BMWs is not more than the competition; however, BMWs are not as reliable as Japanese cars and they do require more maintenance.
  3. If your car is out of warranty, find yourself a competent independent mechanic. Their labor rates tend to be about half that of dealers. http://www.bimrs.org/ lists such (Kris Linquist #170334)
I disagree with number 2. Maintenance is very infrequent as far as oil changes,no requirement to change coolant, etc. Repair may be high, though.
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  #130  
Old 08-13-2013, 03:00 PM
funkle funkle is offline
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Location: SF
 
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Posts: 68
Mein Auto: Z4 M Coupe
Quote:
Originally Posted by KrisL View Post
Here are the top 10 things that anyone considering a new or used BMW should know. I'm going to make this a sticky - feel free to add on to it!
BMW engines are tuned very well from the factory. It's very difficult to get more than a few horsepower out of intakes, exhausts, chips, headers, etc. (the newer the car, the more true this is)....unless, of course, you're talking about the N54 twin-turbo (335i, 535i, etc), in which case, completely disregard what I just said! [/LIST]
What about the N52 3 stage DISA valve mod (or N51 ecu tuning)? From what I've read it can result in as much as a 40hp gain for $800-1600 for the intake & flash (or even less for the N51 which just requires the flash)

Last edited by funkle; 08-13-2013 at 03:02 PM.
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  #131  
Old 08-30-2013, 07:34 AM
mullini mullini is offline
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Location: Redondo Beach CA
 
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Posts: 201
Mein Auto: 2013 BMW sDrive 28i X1
My addendum after having my first BMW 9 months (sDrive28i X1, a real "first BMW" lol)
1) Be prepared to be annoyed by any number of little things that will not diminish your love at all. Exs: the door lock/unlock in the middle of the dashboard; the ASS sometimes engaging when you park in your garage, while you are preoccupied with some task, and when you hit the ignition button, instead of turning the car off you turn it back on again; the first time you have to replace a RFT...
2) If you're in a metro area such as Los Angeles - you are not going to feel special. There are freakin' BMWs everywhere.
3) You know when you pull any type of traffic "gambit" that you would have pulled in any other car you have ever driven, another driver watching is going to go "BMW driving SOB"
4) Not long after you buy your BMW, they will come out with a feature you'd love in the next year model, or release a brand new model that's an even better fit for what you wanted....but you'll still be happy when you next climb into the BMW you bought...

A couple of those are prompted by my visiting Pacific BMW to get an after market tire warranty (good deal, look up Daniel Dutton) because my first RFT replacement made me realize that policy is worth the peace of mind. And in the showroom I saw the new 3 series GT....ummm mmmm.
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  #132  
Old 11-20-2013, 10:35 PM
winkingvomer winkingvomer is offline
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Location: Los Angeles, california
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 2
Mein Auto: ford focus
Quote:
Originally Posted by KrisL View Post
Here are the top 10 things that anyone considering a new or used BMW should know. I'm going to make this a sticky - feel free to add on to it!
  1. Most newer BMWs require synthetic oil and premium fuel. Do not give your car less than it requires.
  2. Contrary to popular belief, parts and labor on BMWs is not more than the competition; however, BMWs are not as reliable as Japanese cars and they do require more maintenance.
  3. If your car is out of warranty, find yourself a competent independent mechanic. Their labor rates tend to be about half that of dealers. http://www.bimrs.org/ lists such shops.
  4. Buy a Bentley repair manual for you car. Even if you don't work on your car yourself, it's good to be an informed consumer (example: if your check engine light illuminates, Autozone will plug into your car for free and give you the car's trouble code. You can cross-reference it in the Bentley manual to see what's wrong).
  5. Historically, manual transmissions are more reliable that automatic or steptronic transmissions.
  6. BMWs have great brakes - this is due in part to the rather soft pads and rotors they use. Don't expect them to last more than 30-50k miles. The rotors generally wear at the same rate as the pads so 'machining' the rotors OR replacing pads without rotors is not recommended. There is a 'brake pad low' warning light that is triggered by a wear sensor that will illuminate on your dash when you are due for new brakes. It looks like this: . When you replace your brakes, you also need to replace the wear sensors ($10-20 each). There's one on the front left wheel and one on the rear right wheel. Parts for all 4 rotors, pads, and sensors are generally $200-500 and labor is about the same.
  7. The 'sport package' available on most BMWs is usually considered a necessary option by enthusiasts. It usually includes better (bolstered) seats, stiffer suspension (better handling), as well as larger wheels and tires. One caveat: It also comes with summer only tires that are NOT suitable for ANY slushy/snowy/icy conditions. If you live in an area that gets snow, it's highly recommended that you buy a second set of wheels with dedicated snow tires.
  8. It's fairly common for OEM tires to only last 10-20k miles. Price out replacements on www.TireRack.com to prevent being shocked: It can cost $600-1500 for replacement rubber. Also remember that tires are the #1 performance mod available to you! There's a significant difference between cheap all-season tires and good summer-only tires. Ask any questions in the Tires, Wheels, and Brakes forum.
  9. BMW engines are tuned very well from the factory. It's very difficult to get more than a few horsepower out of intakes, exhausts, chips, headers, etc. (the newer the car, the more true this is)....unless, of course, you're talking about the N54 twin-turbo (335i, 535i, etc), in which case, completely disregard what I just said!
  10. The BMW Car Club of America (BMW CCA) is a great organization- membership ($48/yr) entitles you to a free subscription to the monthly magazine Roundel, discounts on parts at most BMW dealers, high performance driving schools/car control clinics/autocrosses, local gatherings/rallys/dinners, as well as a $500-1500 discount on your next new or CPO BMW (you must be a member for at least a year prior to purchase - and this transaction is completely independent of the dealer - you receive a rebate check after purchasing the car for at your dealer-negotiated price). Join here and if you found this post useful, use me as your referrer (Kris Linquist #170334)

thanks a lot for this list. the parts and labor of BMW's is always an issue, they say that it costs more than the competition.
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  #133  
Old 12-02-2013, 07:53 PM
wickedhalf wickedhalf is offline
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Location: Los Angeles, california
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 2
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Mein Auto: ford
Quote:
Originally Posted by KrisL View Post
Here are the top 10 things that anyone considering a new or used BMW should know. I'm going to make this a sticky - feel free to add on to it!
  1. Most newer BMWs require synthetic oil and premium fuel. Do not give your car less than it requires.
  2. Contrary to popular belief, parts and labor on BMWs is not more than the competition; however, BMWs are not as reliable as Japanese cars and they do require more maintenance.
  3. If your car is out of warranty, find yourself a competent independent mechanic. Their labor rates tend to be about half that of dealers. http://www.bimrs.org/ lists such shops.
  4. Buy a Bentley repair manual for you car. Even if you don't work on your car yourself, it's good to be an informed consumer (example: if your check engine light illuminates, Autozone will plug into your car for free and give you the car's trouble code. You can cross-reference it in the Bentley manual to see what's wrong).
  5. Historically, manual transmissions are more reliable that automatic or steptronic transmissions.
  6. BMWs have great brakes - this is due in part to the rather soft pads and rotors they use. Don't expect them to last more than 30-50k miles. The rotors generally wear at the same rate as the pads so 'machining' the rotors OR replacing pads without rotors is not recommended. There is a 'brake pad low' warning light that is triggered by a wear sensor that will illuminate on your dash when you are due for new brakes. It looks like this: . When you replace your brakes, you also need to replace the wear sensors ($10-20 each). There's one on the front left wheel and one on the rear right wheel. Parts for all 4 rotors, pads, and sensors are generally $200-500 and labor is about the same.
  7. The 'sport package' available on most BMWs is usually considered a necessary option by enthusiasts. It usually includes better (bolstered) seats, stiffer suspension (better handling), as well as larger wheels and tires. One caveat: It also comes with summer only tires that are NOT suitable for ANY slushy/snowy/icy conditions. If you live in an area that gets snow, it's highly recommended that you buy a second set of wheels with dedicated snow tires.
  8. It's fairly common for OEM tires to only last 10-20k miles. Price out replacements on www.TireRack.com to prevent being shocked: It can cost $600-1500 for replacement rubber. Also remember that tires are the #1 performance mod available to you! There's a significant difference between cheap all-season tires and good summer-only tires. Ask any questions in the Tires, Wheels, and Brakes forum.
  9. BMW engines are tuned very well from the factory. It's very difficult to get more than a few horsepower out of intakes, exhausts, chips, headers, etc. (the newer the car, the more true this is)....unless, of course, you're talking about the N54 twin-turbo (335i, 535i, etc), in which case, completely disregard what I just said!
  10. The BMW Car Club of America (BMW CCA) is a great organization- membership ($48/yr) entitles you to a free subscription to the monthly magazine Roundel, discounts on parts at most BMW dealers, high performance driving schools/car control clinics/autocrosses, local gatherings/rallys/dinners, as well as a $500-1500 discount on your next new or CPO BMW (you must be a member for at least a year prior to purchase - and this transaction is completely independent of the dealer - you receive a rebate check after purchasing the car for at your dealer-negotiated price). Join here and if you found this post useful, use me as your referrer (Kris Linquist #170334)
thanks a lot for this, I'm planning on buying a car and i've not decided yet if i'll get a bmw. your post is a great help.
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  #134  
Old 02-25-2014, 07:50 AM
jljljl jljljl is offline
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Mein Auto: '02 BMW x5 3.0i e53
All in all good list, one question though. In point number 1 you mention newer bmws need synthetic oil and premium oil. Don't all bmw need that? .. I have an '02 x5 e53 and on the gas door, it says 91, which is premium gas.
And everything you said in #7 about the sports package is valid, as I have that package and really enjoy it.

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  #135  
Old 05-19-2014, 09:32 AM
EMORY2268 EMORY2268 is offline
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You can get locked inside

Apparently there is no lock/unlock button inside a 2006 325i.. I learned this the other day when my wife stayed inside the car to check her facebook while I went into a store. I instinctivly locked the car as I left, only to come back and find her very pissed off. Tried it myself, and damed if the door will not open from the inside once locked. No inside button either.
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  #136  
Old 05-19-2014, 07:39 PM
pflau pflau is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mullini View Post
2) If you're in a metro area such as Los Angeles - you are not going to feel special. There are freakin' BMWs everywhere.
I can attest to that and I live in Westchester NY. Those BMW F30 328s are a dime two dozens.
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  #137  
Old 05-19-2014, 08:09 PM
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Dave 20T Dave 20T is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pflau View Post
I can attest to that and I live in Westchester NY. Those BMW F30 328s are a dime two dozens.
This is what I like. I don't want a fancy car.
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  #138  
Old 06-02-2014, 09:02 AM
RBell789 RBell789 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crowz View Post
I think its how you treat them more than anything. Mine is pushing 250k miles and is a great car still and very dependable.
I couldn't agree more, if you take good care of your BMW, you won't have to buy spare parts every year or something.
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  #139  
Old 06-10-2014, 05:22 PM
vmpatterson vmpatterson is offline
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Mein Auto: Volvo V70 R& T5, 911 CS4
If you like to drive I would strongly recommend the sports package or DHP. We ordered a 328xi M Sport with the DHP in 2013. Its my wife's car. One of her 90+ year old friends comments on how nice the ride is in comfort or ECO mode. But even in Comfort or ECO mode the ride is better than the loaner 328x I got from the dealer when we had the first service done. The loaner felt like a standard US or Japanese car - not any fun. Further, with DHP you can tighten up the suspension in Sport or Sport+ mode. Makes it a much better car, not as good as my 911 or V70R that just got totals at a stop light - people shouldn't be allowed to drive with loose sandals that can come off and are stupid enough to try and put them on when they are still moving. (notice I didn't say women although in this case it was, certainly there are many stupid guys out on the roads). Anyway I also got the summer tires and just change then out in the winter for good ice tires they also make a big different. Now looking at a 328xi Sports Wagon.

Last edited by vmpatterson; 06-10-2014 at 05:24 PM.
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  #140  
Old 06-18-2014, 06:25 PM
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BlackBmw13 BlackBmw13 is offline
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i wish i read this before leasing my car, but thank God i leased and didnt buy.
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  #141  
Old 06-24-2014, 05:54 AM
volcom850 volcom850 is offline
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Just Lease it

The top thing to know is to always lease and never buy a BMW
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  #142  
Old 06-24-2014, 08:38 AM
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Dave 20T Dave 20T is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by volcom850 View Post
The top thing to know is to always lease and never buy a BMW
If this were true, then BMW's leasing business would go bankrupt. Leasing is profitable. Therefore, in the big picture, it is cheaper to buy the car, then sell it, rather than lease unless you pay too much in the beginning or sell it too cheaply at the end.

Leasing, however, is easier because it's a prearranged agreement.
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  #143  
Old 08-10-2014, 01:12 PM
Livin2theMax Livin2theMax is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crowz View Post
I think its how you treat them more than anything. Mine is pushing 250k miles and is a great car still and very dependable.
Agreed. Mine has 163K, I'd love to see 250K myself! Maintenance & paying attention to how it runs and the way it sounds has paid off so far!
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  #144  
Old 08-10-2014, 03:37 PM
KeithDTN06525xi KeithDTN06525xi is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PollyBoston View Post
very interesting about the synetic oil... I noticed BMW sells their own oil under accessories... does anyone only use that exclusively?
BMW's synthetic oil is essentially Castrol Edge. I've always used synthetic oil in my cars even before I bought BMWs. Synthetic oils last longer, and the viscosity does not break down, plus they can handle hotter temperatures. I am a firm believer if you use good oil in your engine, and change it every 8,000 miles your engine will last longer. Also you only have to change your oil every 8-10,000 miles. I change mine every 8,000 miles, so the costs comes out the same if you used regular oil since you must change regular oil every 4-5,000 miles depending on your driving conditions. Mobile 1, and Castrol Edge are the best with BMW recommending using Castrol Edge (use to be syntec) So if you use Castrol Edge found at most local auto parts stores you are using the same as the BMW brand. I like to shop at AutoZone since they run specials all the time on their oil. You can buy a 5 quart container of Castrol Edge for only $34.99, of course you have to purchase 2 extra quarts since most BMWs take 7 quarts. It's a lot cheaper to buy oil in the 5 quart container vs. buying synthetic oil by the bottle.
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Last edited by KeithDTN06525xi; 08-10-2014 at 03:41 PM.
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  #145  
Old 08-11-2014, 03:34 AM
Tony Back Tony Back is offline
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sounds interesting. Well, the question is do i need to buy a diagnostic tool for my "future" BMW.i would rather say i dont want to take a risk to spend huge $$ to the garage. if a diagnostic tool is needed for vehicles, then what scan tool is the best choice?
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  #146  
Old 09-03-2014, 04:37 AM
ssnantucket ssnantucket is offline
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Wow the number 2 item in this post BMW's are not as reliable as Japan's products should be a wake up call. The Boeing 757, 767, 777 area all very reliable and performance engineered. With prices for new BMW's averaging 55K we should expect and DEMAND both reliability and performance!

I do not find that my 2001 E53 X5 requires any more maintenance than any other vehicle I have had VOLVO's CADDY's even BUICKS......the original factory warranty and service plan for 4 years or 50k miles was great!

I do worry that the flexible service system going from Green Bars to Yellow Bars to Red Bar may not be completely correct in determining oil change intervals or perhaps owners are not listening to it.

Recently I was looking at a previously owned 2003 X5 3.0L vehicle at a local independent used car dealer (the type of place I never purchase any of my vehicles from). After driving it with its odometer reading 98K miles I was curious and wanted to look under the hood.

One of my personal checks into the general health of any engine is to attempt to determine how well the previous OWNER(s) did at one of the most basic vehicle maintenance tasks OIL CHANGES.

One of the major determinations in my mind is to always check the ENGINE SIDE of the OIL FILLER CAP as well as EXAMINE THE INSIDE (whatever components rocker arms or anything you an see from the opening when the OIL FILLER CAP is removed. BASICALLY that there should not be anything ICKY (sludge, varnish, gel or whatever----all you should see is shiny metal under a coating of oil which may or may not be totally clean). That being said, the vehicle in question had a completely coated with sludge oil filler cap bottom that would not wipe clean with a paper towel which I asked the sales gal for. I was only marginally interested in this X5 offered at $10,000. I did not bother to climb up with a flashlight to actually look inside the oil filler cap opening into this 3L 6 cyl engine. Also I was not in car shopping mode so I did not have my SCAN TOOL or flashlight or stepladder with me. The dealer did have the carFAX and it turned out that the X5 had 3 other owners the first being a leasing company. Its life originated in So CA and then was relocated to FL. So I wanted to put this out to the forum to determine any other special inspections that members in the market for a previously owned BMW or any other car look for. We all have our used car screening and validation techniques. Along with my inspection I always have the dealer so their CPO inspection for approximately 1 hour of labor they are all but happy to give me a comprehenwsive report from above, inside and below the vehicle.

It is SURPRISING how often that PRIVATE PARTY sellers do not have any interest in letting a prospective buyer bring the vehicle (WITH OR WITHOUT THE OWNER PRESENT) into the DEALER or your FAVORITE TECHNICIAN for their 2'nd OPINION. My feeling is what are they hiding? The dealers computers and diagnostic systems are KING and they all have special tools that really INTEROGATE each of the vehicles computer systems namely ENGINE CONTROL MODULE, BODY CONTROL MODULE and TRANSMISSION / DRIVE TRIN CONTROL MODULE. I have an OTC scan tool not a orange toy from AAdvance or other auto parts homes...so I get a pretty detailed look at the OBD2 active or pending codes.

Unless I have the particular year/manufacturer software for the scan tool I just bring it to the DEAER as the hour of diag time is way less expensive than $2500 updates from OTC LOL

Has anyone else ran into SELLERS reluctant if not completely against allowing a dealer or other inspection...one seller wanted me to bring a tech to his home...and I am like well that is fine but if you do not have a hydraulic lift there is not much more that a tech can do than I with my scan tool LOL

Best Regards

Dave (ssnantucket) Thanks for reading please feel free to comment.

Is there any situation where the SERVICE INTERVAL COMPUATER that changes the service interval from 3 or 4 GREENS to yellow and to RED does not calculate the service interval properly? In the situation of OIL CHANGES BMW DEALER has said you disregard the COLORS and if you do not get to RED within 2 years then you definitely need to change the oil. TRANSLATE FOLLOW THE COLORS or change every 2 years if you don't drive the vehicle a lot.

Also the plugs are supposed to have 100K life but at 38 k and 6 years of age the dealer says you should replace them..WHY THEY WORK JUST FINE and there are no mis fires on the OBD2 or anything like that.

My feeling has always to be meticulous about the regular maintenance and always try to USE OEM PARTS..the problem is where to get them w/o being ripped off. So are there any BMW OEM parts suppliers or dealers that give marginal DO IT YOURSELFERS prices that we can LIVE WITH?

Lastly, if I would be CEO of BMW NA I think I would be yelling at department heads meetings similar to Lee Iacoca (at CHRYSLER trying to get a convertible produced ) Look there is NO REASON YOU CANT BUILD A VEHICLE THAT IS MORE RELIAZBLE THAN a JAPANESE TIN CAN! How embarrassing that BMW accepts that they are inferior to Japanese vehicles I would never stand for that. You can engineer anything to be HIGHLY RELIABLE..as a BMW owner I feel no OBLICATION to keep the dealers in HIGH PROFIT repairs and neither SHOULD BMW reliability and performance should not be mutually exclusive!

Best Regards

2001 E53 4.4L owner with 54K ORGINAL MILES in Alpine White

Last edited by ssnantucket; 09-03-2014 at 05:16 AM. Reason: Addition of more information
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  #147  
Old 09-03-2014, 03:46 PM
fastangel90 fastangel90 is offline
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Mein Auto: 2002 bmw 330i coupe
good info to know before buying a bmw
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  #148  
Old 09-09-2014, 04:15 PM
435iXdrive 435iXdrive is offline
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Forgot #11 on the list

#11: Don't buy a 320/328. Get something with POWER and ACCELERATION
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  #149  
Old 09-09-2014, 06:36 PM
mullini mullini is offline
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Location: Redondo Beach CA
 
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Mein Auto: 2013 BMW sDrive 28i X1
Quote:
Originally Posted by 435iXdrive View Post
#11: Don't buy a 320/328. Get something with POWER and ACCELERATION
Yeah my s28 X1 is such a slowpoke. A Prius C leaves me eating its dust. On hills I have to get out and push. 240 hp my backside! Barely worth pushing the START button for...
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  #150  
Old 09-10-2014, 10:15 AM
435iXdrive 435iXdrive is offline
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Your right, it is slow. Bad buy. Go CAYENNE TURBO S
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