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7 Series - E38 (1995 - 2001)

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  #1  
Old 05-19-2012, 10:18 PM
canyncarvr canyncarvr is offline
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Mein Auto: '98 740i M62 A5S440 trans
Wiper problem redeaux

The E38 has more than its share of wiper motor system problems, as noted elsewhere on this board. But, a number of threads concerning the issue have no resolution posted.

Hence...one more (at least) time?

I have two broken wires on the #1 wiper relay, and one broken on the #2 relay. To re-attach them, the pins should come out. That happens to be my sticking point at the moment..depressing both retainer tabs AND pushing the pin out at the same time.

It would be easier using new pins..maybe even a new socket.

Anyone with part number info for either the relay socket or the pins?

Thanks much!


'98 740i (E38)
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  #2  
Old 05-20-2012, 10:27 AM
Brummel Brummel is offline
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Just go to your nearest BMW dealer and ask for a X1082 connector ( it should be a 9 pin black connector) which is used for both k36 and k37 wiper relays, don't forget to get the new pins, you are better off replacing them all now while you are in there.

Good luck with the repair.

Last edited by Brummel; 05-20-2012 at 05:17 PM.
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  #3  
Old 05-20-2012, 12:14 PM
canyncarvr canyncarvr is offline
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Mein Auto: '98 740i M62 A5S440 trans
Thank you!

I had a -1389113 PN off the existing relay base, but not the X1082 number.

I've been the proud owner of this machine for only 36 hours..my manual is 'in the mail'.

Just for the sake of fussing with it, I'm still trying to get the existing pins out. Have yet to get the retainer clip properly un-retained.

Are the pins for that X1082 base 61130007440 (2.5mm double leaf)?

Related: The diagram I'm referring to shows pin-4 of Relay-2 to be BRN/BLK. Of the three existing broken wires, two match color-code for pins 4&8 for Relay-1, so the remaining wire I have that is BRN/WHT has no place to go but to the BRN/BLK spot noted pin-4 on Relay-2.

Sounds reasonable..I'd sure prefer the color code matched, though. Do color codes change from time to time? That's not uncommon on other makes..maybe BMW never changes 'em? In which case..I've got a spare wire with no place to go!

Thank you for your input. I appreciate it.
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  #4  
Old 05-20-2012, 04:58 PM
Brummel Brummel is offline
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spaghetticoder.org and e38.org are my main sources for information, with that being said, http://wds.spaghetticoder.org/us/svg...3493.svg?m=e38 and http://wds.spaghetticoder.org/us/svg...3488.svg?m=e38 show k37 and k36 relays pin information.

Wires color coding may change for different years, I'm not sure about it. Doudle check the information given.

Last edited by Brummel; 05-20-2012 at 05:00 PM.
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  #5  
Old 05-20-2012, 06:57 PM
canyncarvr canyncarvr is offline
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.svg...

Those are PaintShopPro files that I can't see.

The info I have is from this site. I don't have the source at hand, or I'd gladly credit the drawings **edit** joyism5 listed the diagrams: http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...405&highlight= post #8. Thanks!. It matches the 'early' relay config (prior to a wiring change mid-year '98) except for that one wire.

It'll work. I have three wires broken (all the same guage/type, which indicates a problem with that particular wire methinks), two of them match, the other has to go to the left-over spot.



Thanks!

**edit**
I ordered from the local dealer. He didn't know 'X1082' but he DID understand the BMW PNs 61131389113 (relay holder, black white) and 61130007440 (Double leaf spring contact. 2,5 MM˛).

Last edited by canyncarvr; 05-21-2012 at 05:13 PM.
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  #6  
Old 05-24-2012, 02:39 PM
canyncarvr canyncarvr is offline
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New parts

Relay bases and double-leaf spring contacts arrived today.

I see a reason the contacts are more expensive than one might think sensible (about $4): They come with a 20" or so pigtail on 'em.

I'll likely solder the crimped connection before placing them into the base. I've never been a fan of crimped connections. Of course, if one cannot solder the contact without wicking flux/solder down into the wire, the just-crimped wires are better off left alone.

The contacts are retained 4 ways. There is a clip on EACH wide side of the them (metal..part of the contact AND the socket has plastic fingers on the narrow sides.

Also got my manual. In the Bentley E38 manual (p. ELE-297), pin 4 of Wiper Relay II (K37) is noted to have the color code BR/SW (brown/black). The wire in the car is BR/WS (brown/white).
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  #7  
Old 05-28-2012, 10:22 AM
canyncarvr canyncarvr is offline
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Done.

I replaced both relay bases and used all new pins. Most pins I soldered the new pigtails to the existing wires. There is plenty of room beneath the DME boxes to loop the extra wire.

It's easy to see why wiring problems occur based on the quality of wire (used in my e38 anyway). Several wires were simply rotten. Corrosion, gunk, and manufacturing defects were obvious. Creeping corrosion isn't uncommon in connector wiring, but it didn't matter how far back some of the wires were cut because the wire quality was so poor. Nothing touched the gunk, either: 99% isopropyl, Fedron, lacquer thinner, BraKleen...all with scrubbing using a short bristled acid brush. To effectively solder such wires, each strand would have to be cleaned with an abrasive. My (less than satisfactory) solution was to crimp those wires together using ground sleeves. It worked.

The end result is wipers that work..slow/fast/intermittent.

Quote:
That'll do, pig!
When I first got to the bottom of the relay bank, two wires were broken from the K36/#1 relay. It took only a bit of movement of the relay(s) to end up with three...then four broken wires. Pins 4&8 of both the K36 and K37/#2 relays ended up breaking. Pin 8 (red/brn) is power to both relays, pin 4 in both cases runs to the GM. All four wires are a very light gauge...didn't measure it, but it's 22ga. or so. Woefully inadequate in any case.

Note: The pin 4 wire on my K37 relay IS brn/wht (WS if you prefer), NOT brn/blk (SW if you prefer) as noted on some diagrams.

I never did successfully remove an existing installed wire..even with considerable damage done to the base in the process. I have attended soldering instruction (AMRIP repair..avionic modules) but never went to no BMW relay base deconstruction skool.

Good luck!
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  #8  
Old 05-28-2012, 02:10 PM
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joyism5 joyism5 is offline
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Some electric grease on connectors, will help in the future to prevent such a headache...
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  #9  
Old 05-29-2012, 10:57 AM
canyncarvr canyncarvr is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joyism5 View Post
Some electric grease on connectors, will help in the future to prevent such a headache...
??Would you expand on that, please? I don't understand how di-electric grease on the connectors prevents corrosion/breakage on the other end of the socket pin. I'm misunderstanding something but don't know what.

Thanks.
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  #10  
Old 05-29-2012, 10:11 PM
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joyism5 joyism5 is offline
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Just trying to say that you should clean the other relays not to have a headache again. When I bought my E38 couple years ago was not running for more than 3 years. (engine blown). Back then I removed all the relays & fuses, clean the pins with fine sand paper and I apply di-electric grease. Now, after 3 years I don't have any corrosion or stuck relays because of the grease. No corrosion on any of the terminals either. Just because I keep them greasy. Back in the days when I had no grease handy, I used honey. yeap, same effect, stops the blue corrosion on electric contacts.
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Last edited by joyism5; 05-29-2012 at 10:12 PM.
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  #11  
Old 02-26-2013, 12:14 PM
97bimmer72 97bimmer72 is offline
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Mein Auto: 97 bmw 740 il
wiper motor location

hello,
im new to the site and was wondering if anyone can tell me how to remove the windshield wiper motor on a 97 740 il?
thanks
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  #12  
Old 02-27-2013, 03:18 AM
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BMWFatherFigure BMWFatherFigure is offline
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Thanks for the tip on di-electric grease. I will be adding that to my armory!!
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