Hesitation when I give it Throttle

Originally Posted by OliverM3

I didn't really notice when doing my timing belt if the pulley was damaged but I don't think it was.
I'll take a look. I should have noticed though when it was off and sitting on the workbench.
And I drove around for two days and about 40 miles after the fuel pump but I haven't taken it to work which is the real test. For whatever reason it always acts up when I go to work must not like my job.

Well mine is warn from water pump pulley rubbing on it in the accident doesnt even look to bad but i have every problem that guy did, to the T.

Originally Posted by OliverM3

5sp of course

Try pulling the instrument cluster and using some dielectric grease on the connections behind the cluster. then put everything back together.
The the VSS signal to the DME may interrupted by a poor connection.

m

Well 150 miles after the pump replacement and it's still running great.
What do you think is it possible for the fuel pump to suck air in if the clamps aren't tight?
I would assume that it would leak and not suck air in but I did notice that when I replaced the pump one of the clamps broke so I needed to use a new one.
If the first pump was somehow sucking air in the line I could see it running like it did.
But with all of that pressure I would assume that if a clamp was lose it would leak not suck in air.

So far so good it's running great I've been driving it around all weekend.

Originally Posted by 7pilot

Try pulling the instrument cluster and using some dielectric grease on the connections behind the cluster. then put everything back together.
The the VSS signal to the DME may interrupted by a poor connection.

m

I've had the cluster out to replace the odometer gears it's all clean.
I didn't think that the sensor to the dme ran to the cluster only to the dme.
I thought the blue sensor ran to the dme and the brown one went to the cluster?

i have a 85 318i and i have the same problem. my car seams to be very sluggish lately when trying to accelerate. i never thought of a vacuum leak. makes perfect since for my car because when driving close to a wall or curb and i step on the gas peddle i can hear a suction of air. any suggestions on where to start looking?

intake boot

Back to the drawing board. Took the car to work on Friday and it did it again.
If anyone needs a perfectly good fuel pump my new VDO pump will be on ebay shortly.
I just don't get it I think it's my job that's screwing up the car.
I drove it around all day today again and nothing it ran perfectly.

You guys, do you have a crank sensor? If so, has that been replaced too? Could be that when the car reaches operating temperature, the crank sensor's resistance shoot high and what results is a high rpm misfire. When it does it again, keep at it, don't let off and note all the symptoms - I bet you the car might even die or lose power significantly!

Originally Posted by OliverM3

Back to the drawing board. Took the car to work on Friday and it did it again.
If anyone needs a perfectly good fuel pump my new VDO pump will be on ebay shortly.
I just don't get it I think it's my job that's screwing up the car.
I drove it around all day today again and nothing it ran perfectly.

you have the most demonic gremlin that ive heard of.

Originally Posted by downhiller

you have the most demonic gremlin that ive heard of.

Lol that was me 2 days ago try the pulley

Originally Posted by mawana

You guys, do you have a crank sensor? If so, has that been replaced too? Could be that when the car reaches operating temperature, the crank sensor's resistance shoot high and what results is a high rpm misfire. When it does it again, keep at it, don't let off and note all the symptoms - I bet you the car might even die or lose power significantly!

Replaced

Originally Posted by downhiller

you have the most demonic gremlin that ive heard of.

Yeah it is an evil little bitch. I drove the car all day today and nothing! it ran great.

Originally Posted by BmwMan92

Lol that was me 2 days ago try the pulley

It's just to intermittent to be a mechanical failure for mine It has to be electrical.
I can drive the car for 200 miles and there's nothing then the next day 5 minutes in and it acts up.
I may resort to threating the car keep a can of gas and pack of matches in the trunk because I think it's just doing it for fun.
This is unlike any problem I have ever had with any car.

just a quick thought, do these motors have a knock sensor? i cannot for the life of me remember, but my subby did the same, changed everything fuel related, still happened, took it in to the dealer cause they wanted to see if their mechanic changed the knock sensor (and he didnt) replaced it, and since then, no problems besides the knock and tranny issue.

Originally Posted by OliverM3

It's just to intermittent to be a mechanical failure for mine It has to be electrical.
I can drive the car for 200 miles and there's nothing then the next day 5 minutes in and it acts up.
I may resort to threating the car keep a can of gas and pack of matches in the trunk because I think it's just doing it for fun.
This is unlike any problem I have ever had with any car.

What Exactly does it do when it is having its episode like as you hit the gas and does it make any noises?

Originally Posted by BmwMan92

What Exactly does it do when it is having its episode like as you hit the gas and does it make any noises?

It's hard to describe. I guess it would be kind of like hitting a rev limiter at 2-3k you can't continue to move forward without flooring it.
And it's not that it even maintains the speed at a low RPM the more gas you give it the slower the car gets until the final point when the pedal hits the floor then you get full power again.
Well until you back off of the pedal then it's the same thing the car will hesitate and not move be able to maintain it's current speed until the pedal is pressed to the floor again.

No smoke no gas smell no poping you just can't maintain a set speed

The fact that your water temp gauge acts up suggests to me that there is a bad connection between the DME and the instrument panel, or that the i/p is poorly grounded. I had a problem with an intermittent bogging/misfire that coincided with the water temp gauge acting weirdly.
If the car was running fine, the gauge would be fine.
If there is a bad connection between the i/p and the DME, the DME is going to be confused and late.

m

I've been looking over the wireing this has to be the worst problem with a car.
I just can't find the short.
I have some crappy alarm system spliced in under the dash that doesn't apear to be doing anything I may try removing that to see if that's causing some problems.

Stairwayto7 I have same problem can we chat

Sure PM me,

I still have not found a solution though.
I haven't had a chance to look at the car over the winter and the few times that I did drive it the problem did no occur