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E30 (1982 - 1993)
God's Chariot. The E30 was produced primarily from 1982 through 1991. The cabriolet was the one exception which was produced through 1993. |
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#1
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Hi everyone,
Basically I'm a car novice (know basic stuff about cars) and I'm thinking about buying an E30, possibly >87 model. I know older cars tend to have some problem after the other and being a student, I dont have much money to spend on repairs so I want this car to be a learning car where I can do things myself hence why I joined this site to gain some insight (and also I love BMWs). To me the E30 is one of the most beautiful BMWs made so I've set my eye on owning one. What I want to ask you all is advice on which engine size would be more economical, where i can get cheap car insurance (in the UK), what I need to look when buying an E30 (pros/cons). Thanks in advance! |
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#2
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#3
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In the UK - rust! Cheapest is always the small engine 318i rather than 320 -323 - 325 - 328. Try for 320 if you need to do distance regularly. Go with manual if you have the licence. If you end up with M40 style engine change the timing belt straight away unless you are positive about age. The MOT should take care of worn suspension bushes etc. Get a w'shop manual. Beware accident damage.
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Good - Fast - Cheap: Pick any two. Current: E23 735i; E30 318i; E32 735iL; E38 735iL; R50 Cooper; R55 Cooper Clubman. Previous: E21 318i; E32 735iL; E34 535i; E38 730iL; E53 4.4i
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#4
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I thought in England you just go out & steal whatever car you want ?
heh heh
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#5
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Thanks Terrains! I'll give that a read.
@BMW FF I'd prefer a manual ofcourse, and since i might be commuting in it (2hr drive a day) I think the 320 would be good. Unfortunately Nick there arent any around my area
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#6
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its a great buy the only thing with E30's is that they need to be taken care of you will have a lot of minor problems so if you don't really have the money to put in which is not a lot considering that the parts are cheap you just have to do the labor on your own go for it!
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#7
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I am rehabing an E30 (1986 325 e) is repalcing the from steering componets i.e ball joints etc. within the reachnof the home mechanic to do efficently?
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#8
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Yes, provided you have the correct tools and some know-how. You will need an alignment after replacing the parts, however. Best to do all the replaceable pieces at once. Bushings, sway bar drop links, lower control arms (which have the ball joints already attached) and tie rods (inner and outer).
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Quotes to live by: guessing gets expensive...drivinfaster nothing is more expensive than a cheap BMW...c4harpe13 Ken Kanne, Silverhill, AL, Honorary Forum Grandpa/Craigslist addict/Hoarder of all sorts of stuff BMW-CCA #441426 1995 318is "Bebe"; 1993 325is "Elvira" 1985 635CSi "Katja" 1984 633CSi "Sylvia" I NEED A NAP, DANG IT! |
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#9
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+1 hornhospital
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Good - Fast - Cheap: Pick any two. Current: E23 735i; E30 318i; E32 735iL; E38 735iL; R50 Cooper; R55 Cooper Clubman. Previous: E21 318i; E32 735iL; E34 535i; E38 730iL; E53 4.4i
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#10
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Febi sells the control arm with bushes & pins assembled at a price cheaper than the individual components
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#11
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So I've found a 1990 E30 318is, considering to buy it. It has done 143k miles, failed it's MOT due to crank position sensor failure, however the owner has bought the CPS and fuel pump relays. With the sale comes new brake pads and discs, steering and fan belt. There is rust on drivers side rear quarter and arch and a few other small touches. The paint has seen better days, it's kinda peeling on some spots. For £750ish, Yay or nay?
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