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X3 E83 (2004 - 2010)
Talk about the E83 BMW X3 in this forum!

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  #1  
Old 06-09-2012, 06:45 PM
dohc120 dohc120 is offline
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Location: Emeryville, Ca
 
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Mein Auto: 2004 X3, 1995 540i
Codes P0041 and P1412

So I have a smog test due on Monday and I'm having no luck figuring out what the issue is. My car is running fine, but the MIL/SES/CEL is on and giving me two codes; P0041, and P1412.

Things I've done:

Inspected the Secondary Air Injection System, and tested it. It all works perfectly. No weird sounds, and good airflow. While I had the valve off, I blew into both ends and I couldn't blow through, yet the pump did successfully blow though. All hoses are sealed and in good condition.

Tested Both Bank 2 Oxygen sensors. I believe on sensor is bad after testing low voltage on one and regular reading from the other.

Is it possible that one possibly bad O2 sensor could throw both codes?

Has anybody had these codes pop up on their car?

Thanks for any input you have.
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  #2  
Old 06-10-2012, 02:21 PM
dohc120 dohc120 is offline
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Mein Auto: 2004 X3, 1995 540i
82 views and no responses, nice. I'm still going to fix this problem and close out the thread. I ordered the two rear O2 sensors. Hopefully this will fix it. I'll let you all know.
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  #3  
Old 03-25-2013, 07:12 PM
hira hira is offline
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Location: Dallas, Texas
 
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Mein Auto: 325i
Same code

I have the same code as of today 03/25/2013.
Too bad no one has posted anything.
I have seen on other forums that the problem was lose hoses at secondary pump.

At Autozone they are giving me the explanation about "Failed EGR differential pressure sensor"

Thanks,

AL
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  #4  
Old 03-25-2013, 07:43 PM
dohc120 dohc120 is offline
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Location: Emeryville, Ca
 
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Mein Auto: 2004 X3, 1995 540i
You have to check and see if the secondary air pump it's running first. As soon as you turn on your ignition the pump should run. It sounds like a hair dryer. Next, make sure your hoses are all sealed properly. You should feel/hear air escaping if they're not. Next you need to check the resistance of the maf sensor on the pump. this was the issue with mine. Cleaning it didn't work. It was $100 from bmw, and it took me 5 minutes to put it on. I can't remember the ohm reading, and i don't have access to a meter. Maybe somebody could post what theirs is? Good luck.
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  #5  
Old 03-25-2013, 07:45 PM
dohc120 dohc120 is offline
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I do remember the ohms being very close, but the bad one was lower resistance for sure.
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  #6  
Old 03-26-2013, 05:19 AM
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halltristan halltristan is offline
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Location: Tennessee
 
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Mein Auto: 325i and X3
It's the secondary valve. I replaced mine recently. Don't blow in it and think everything is fine just because you can or cannot pass air through it. I did the same thing but there is a huge difference between the new valve and old one.

If you don't replace the valve now it can foul up the pump and that's very expensive ($400). Suck it up, replace the valve and the problem will be solved. I also recommend replacing the studs with the valve. They are easy to break while tightening the new valve. You have to buy twenty at a time even though you only need two. That being said - I have plenty for sale!
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  #7  
Old 03-26-2013, 08:13 AM
dohc120 dohc120 is offline
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Don't replace the valve unless it's bad. The worst thing to do is start replacing good parts. To check the valve: take off the hose and start the engine. You should feel no air. Next remove the valve from the block and connect the hose and turn on the ignition. You should feel the air pump. You need to test everything before you start replacing things. This is a generic code that will be thrown for different faults. What was wrong with mine might not be the same part that is wrong with yours.
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  #8  
Old 03-26-2013, 11:35 AM
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halltristan halltristan is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dohc120 View Post
Don't replace the valve unless it's bad. The worst thing to do is start replacing good parts. To check the valve: take off the hose and start the engine. You should feel no air. Next remove the valve from the block and connect the hose and turn on the ignition. You should feel the air pump. You need to test everything before you start replacing things. This is a generic code that will be thrown for different faults. What was wrong with mine might not be the same part that is wrong with yours.
This is bad advice. Those codes aren't generic - it can only be one of two things: the valve or the sensor and it is almost always the valve. Literally 99/100 times it will be the valve. If the secondary pump still works, which is easy enough to test, it is the valve that needs replaced. If the pump doesn't work then the sensor is bad only because the pump is fouled and eventually fouled the sensor too - and even this begins from a bad valve. Basically, If you don't replace the valve eventually you'll have to replace the pump and sensor.

Dohc120: all you did was temporarily fix the problem until your valve screws everything up again. You state in your first post that you "blew into both ends but couldn't blow through" - THAT'S A BAD VALVE! You can blow through a good valve on the port that connects to the hose. When the valve goes bad it gets stuck and prevents the correct amount of air from blowing into the exhaust. Maybe it seemed fine since the high pressure from the pump pushed air through the valve when you tested it but still would not be the correct amount of air flow. Eventually your valve will completely seize and allow exhaust into your pump and you'll have to replace it and your sensor again. Seriously- order a new valve! Ecstuning has them for $85.
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Last edited by halltristan; 03-26-2013 at 11:45 AM.
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  #9  
Old 03-26-2013, 03:58 PM
hira hira is offline
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Thank you guys for quick reply!! I realy appreciate it. I checked all hoses and they are tight. No holes in the hoses as well. This is 2005 with 107,000 miles on it. I will try to see the sensor first, it got to be cheaper. If it is not the sensor then I will go after the valve. I can see that it is accessable so it should not be a problem to replace it. I will keep you posted.
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  #10  
Old 03-26-2013, 05:12 PM
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halltristan halltristan is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hira View Post
Thank you guys for quick reply!! I realy appreciate it. I checked all hoses and they are tight. No holes in the hoses as well. This is 2005 with 107,000 miles on it. I will try to see the sensor first, it got to be cheaper. If it is not the sensor then I will go after the valve. I can see that it is accessable so it should not be a problem to replace it. I will keep you posted.
So you're going to replace the sensor when clearly its the valve? If you're not going to follow good advice then why ask?
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  #11  
Old 03-26-2013, 07:21 PM
hira hira is offline
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You already helped and realy I appreciate !
However, I am here to learn from others and to give my experience to other people not to force them to follow my instructions. Therefore, seriously again thank you for your input, but I don't have to follow your instructions, at the end it is what direction I want to take even if I am wrong. I hope it will not offend you what I write but help you understand how other people think. Please continue to contribut if you want but don't expect me to do what you want.

Thanks....
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  #12  
Old 03-26-2013, 08:52 PM
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halltristan halltristan is offline
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Location: Tennessee
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hira View Post
You already helped and realy I appreciate !
However, I am here to learn from others and to give my experience to other people not to force them to follow my instructions. Therefore, seriously again thank you for your input, but I don't have to follow your instructions, at the end it is what direction I want to take even if I am wrong. I hope it will not offend you what I write but help you understand how other people think. Please continue to contribut if you want but don't expect me to do what you want.

Thanks....
This is the most illogical thing I've ever read by anyone. But ok, it's your car. Good luck I guess.
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  #13  
Old 03-27-2013, 07:40 AM
sjladopoulos sjladopoulos is offline
MotorPress.ca
Location: Toronto
 
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Mein Auto: 2007 BMW X3 3.0si
P0041 and P1412

What is the code description for each one??
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  #14  
Old 03-27-2013, 08:22 AM
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halltristan halltristan is offline
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Location: Tennessee
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sjladopoulos View Post
P0041 and P1412

What is the code description for each one??
It doesn't matter. The op is going to do whatever he wants.
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  #15  
Old 03-29-2013, 09:11 PM
hira hira is offline
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Location: Dallas, Texas
 
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Mein Auto: 325i
Update.

As sugested, I wanted to check the sensor and the valve.
From this skematic
http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...15&hg=11&fg=50

I learned about "mass flow sensor" (#3 in the part list) and how it works.
There is article at wikipedia bery interesting

http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mass_...nsor#section_6
After educating my self about the sensor I wanted to see if I have any air flow from the pump so I disconected hose #7 and started the engine.
The Air flow was there and it was very strong.
Next thing I did was to take the valve off the engine (before that I reconected hose #7) and I repeted the previous exercise.
I started the engine and the flow crom the valve was not as strong as it was coming From the hose before the valve. I cannot believe that the valve was designed to restrict the flow from the pump but designed to allow the flow in only one direction, toward the engine.
Therefore, I am strongly suspicious of the valve because again the air flow is not as strong and the best guess is that the mass flow sensor is picking up that slow movement of the air.
I will get the valve and replace it. I hope that should fix the problem.......
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  #16  
Old 04-10-2013, 09:11 PM
hira hira is offline
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Location: Dallas, Texas
 
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Mein Auto: 325i
The valve finally came in today from ESC tuning. It took me 10 minutes to replace it. I erased the code with the ODB reader and since then the check engine did not show up again.
However, while I was replacing the valve I discovered oil leak on passenger side at valve cover gasket. That is the next project.

Thank you all for your contributions.
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