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E36/7 Z3 (1996-2002)
E36/7 Z3 Roadster, Z3 coupe, Z3 M Roadster and Z3 M Coupe talk with our gurus here.

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Old 03-30-2013, 07:21 PM
ChuckMcCoy ChuckMcCoy is offline
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Location: Dallas
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 29
Mein Auto: Z3
Thanks re: heater control

Hi you regulars, Chuck in Dallas not very regular. Yep, I'm old.

2 yeas ago I learned the "fix it with stuff from R/C airplane store" drill about inoperable temp control dial from this forum. Thanks so much. Got almost finished doing it today. Ran out of daylight and at my age the ambient light is real important.

As per the multiple good threads on the topic, I used a 2.5mm cap head in place of the missing fiber peg. Managed the drilling and insertion w/o removing the case from the car. My wife and chief motorsports sponsor is a quilter and her fingers steadying the whole assembly allowed me to thread the lower nut on the 1st try. Don't know how I'd do this stuff without her... That damn thing is very small and in a very tight little place!

Nuts above and below the existing moveable arm, used a piece of aluminum tubing in the slot or groove or whatever it's called. Think it will yield some endurance better than just the threads of the 2.5 against the plastic.

Was really scary digging it out, but followed the process you guys have and with the Bentley as comfort it seems to have gone pretty well. The center HVAC duct has "slipped" almost 1/2" away from the dash and I can't seem to find the right wiggle / push combo to put it back where it should be. Could be somebody knows the trick, yes?

Owned this car 2 years, put about 10K miles and 15 track days on it. Learned so much, some of it from my own error of not doing what this forum said I should.

I am very lucky. Left the water pump alone til it failed. Stupid, huh. Luckily I was at idle at a traffic light when it happened. Sadly I was 250 miles from home. Luckily my race buddies shop was within the CCA free tow radius and he was in a position to drive me around getting parts that day. Sadly, he knows I changed the thermostat only a few weeks previously.

All-in-all, thank you to those guys that keep this forum vibrant and informative. Not sure I'll ever be a net contributor, but if you're in Dallas I'm usually good for beer.

This little 2.3 will find a good home when I finish a few more fixes that didn't annoy me but would somebody wanting a cheap good sports car.

Now have a 2001 3.0 and gonna start doing proper track money on it. It will always be a street legal sports car I drive on race tracks. Not a race car. It is my intent to annoy guys w/ Boxsters that don't know how to drive. Couldn't really annoy them w/ the 2.3, but jeeze did some of them annoy me.

Will be back on here as the 2.3 gets sorted and the 3.0 gets improved.

Already put "level 2" shocks & struts, poly engine & trans mounts, strut tower brace. Have lowering springs and rear sway bar on order from Ed at Bimmerbum. Run Toyo R1Rs at the track. Want some software upgrade that will raise the redline AND make approaching it more reasonable. I'm familiar with Jap bikes, that have rev limiters based on math and and a concern for gentleness. The rev limiter on the Z (guess all old BMWs) is based on rules of behavior - "you get close to here, we shut you down right away". Downright harmful the abruptness of it. Also want semi-race seats that weigh at least 50lbs. less (each!) and provide harness pass thru. Gonna remove the fan/clutch combo & get underpowered pulley set.

Anybody know of other not-too-radical steps I might take? Spacers for a little wider stance?

Hope to spend more time here now that I've got the machine to start working on. The 2.3 was my 1st 4-wheel on the track & it is/was so much fun. Great little sports car, huh.

Happy Trails to You,
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Old 03-31-2013, 04:34 AM
vintage42's Avatar
vintage42 vintage42 is offline
BMW CCA 1405
Location: Louisville, KY
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 3,809
Mein Auto: 1997 BMW Z3 1.9 5MT
Originally Posted by ChuckMcCoy View Post
... Now have a 2001 3.0 and gonna start doing proper track money on it... put "level 2" shocks & struts, poly engine & trans mounts, strut tower brace. Have lowering springs and rear sway bar on order... Anybody know of other not-too-radical steps I might take? ...
Strengthen the rear subframe. It may already have popped welds and track days might tear it loose.

Randy Forbes in FL makes a $500 kit that qualified local shops can install. Apparently takes about 20 hours, involving cutting, welding and sealing/painting:

Contact info is:
Randy Forbes
Sports Cars Plus LLC
Parrish, FL
(941) 479-4530 work
(419) 350-1098 cell

Last edited by vintage42; 03-31-2013 at 07:19 AM.
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