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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 3 Series / 4 Series > E36 (1991 - 1999)

E36 (1991 - 1999)
The E36 chassis 3-Series BMW was a huge hit among driving enthusiasts from the first moment the car hit the pavement. The E36 won numerous awards over the years it was produced and is still a favorite of many BMW enthusiasts to this day! -- View the E36 Wiki

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  #301  
Old 03-31-2013, 09:56 PM
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cj.surr cj.surr is offline
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Wow, you sure started young.
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  #302  
Old 03-31-2013, 09:58 PM
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Cadets is a youth program from ages 12-19 here.
http://www.cadets.ca/army-armee/
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I grew up in a time when the internet was just a baby. Grammar back then versus now... holy cow. You could watch the degradation of society as the internet became more mature.

HAS KEN HAD HIS MEDS YET?
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  #303  
Old 04-01-2013, 05:26 AM
Naptown Pete Naptown Pete is offline
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The CLP doesn't work well with the M-16 over in the sandpit, while Militec 1 does, both with action and muzzle velocities.
I've been with the DOD for 23 years, but have been using Militec 1 for over 30 years.
The only place I would not use Militec 1 would be on wet clutch motors.
On some diesels I maintain, from the enlisted mechanics I keep getting asked, "did you just change the oil?" as I answer no.
I also get to work with some great cadets from USMMA and have a few retired army guys as part of the 140 volunteers I have working with the midshipmen.
I also work with 8 Cadets from USMMA about 4 times a year for some training and competition.
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  #304  
Old 04-01-2013, 10:06 AM
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In arctic temperatures, we've also used graphite from lead pencils with the C7/8 and the venerable FNC1 before that.
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I grew up in a time when the internet was just a baby. Grammar back then versus now... holy cow. You could watch the degradation of society as the internet became more mature.

HAS KEN HAD HIS MEDS YET?
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  #305  
Old 04-09-2013, 07:47 PM
dhangjr dhangjr is offline
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Im going to repeat my self....so I should be running 20w 50. Im in seattle area. It never gets down to zero here. Rarely does it reach 100 but I do travel to nevada and Idaho where it often goes over 100
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  #306  
Old 04-09-2013, 07:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dhangjr View Post
Im going to repeat my self....so I should be running 20w 50. Im in seattle area. It never gets down to zero here. Rarely does it reach 100 but I do travel to nevada and Idaho where it often goes over 100
Okay, so you have repeated yourself.

Was there a question you had?
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I grew up in a time when the internet was just a baby. Grammar back then versus now... holy cow. You could watch the degradation of society as the internet became more mature.

HAS KEN HAD HIS MEDS YET?
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  #307  
Old 04-09-2013, 07:59 PM
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ZeGerman ZeGerman is online now
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Have you looked at the viscosity chart in your owner's manual?

Hint: ^That is a rhetorical question, since if you had, you would've learned that 20W50 is too heavy for Seattle. Go with 0W40.
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  #308  
Old 04-09-2013, 08:20 PM
dhangjr dhangjr is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeGerman View Post
Have you looked at the viscosity chart in your owner's manual?

Hint: ^That is a rhetorical question, since if you had, you would've learned that 20W50 is too heavy for Seattle. Go with 0W40.
Thanks for the response. What about manual transmission fluid. I listened to the guys at the other forums and did 75w90 mobile one synth but it seems too thick till it warms up. That or my clutch is slipping

Any way why I assumed it as 20w is (Based on the graph In the manual tho I got it off line) it seems to me 15 or 20 weight is the temps that we live with year round. The "special oils" are seemingly ok for ANY climate according the the graph.

I personally don't like the new 0 weight stuff, it bothers me, thats probably the old skool grandpa mechanic from both sides in me. Sounds like gimmicks to me.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=366719

I have read throught most of this and there is as always alot of debate, so it makes choosing difficult. I refer to the graph and my brain. MY brain does not it all tho DAMN
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  #309  
Old 04-09-2013, 08:30 PM
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75W90 is FAR too thick for your transmission!!! That's rear differential gear oil!


Our manual transmissions take Dextron III Automatic Transmission Fluid.
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I grew up in a time when the internet was just a baby. Grammar back then versus now... holy cow. You could watch the degradation of society as the internet became more mature.

HAS KEN HAD HIS MEDS YET?
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  #310  
Old 04-09-2013, 08:35 PM
dhangjr dhangjr is offline
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GRRRR taking notes of things to buy

Why are some guys running it in their 5sp? I could find citations but I gotta jet. I felt that was an issue too cuz its clunky till it warms up.

I have been putting off the rear diff in fear that those same people who said its cool to put gear oil in the tranny were the same guys who said to put it in the diff. At 93k I'm sure its ready to change. BMW likely never changed it.
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  #311  
Old 04-09-2013, 09:00 PM
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If you go back to the main E36 page, click on the Useful Links sticky. IIRC the second link there is for the Bentley manual. It will have in detail all of the fluid types you need. Ask further and we'll happily let you know what we use (hint: we each use pretty much different products).
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Originally Posted by hnaz View Post
I grew up in a time when the internet was just a baby. Grammar back then versus now... holy cow. You could watch the degradation of society as the internet became more mature.

HAS KEN HAD HIS MEDS YET?
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  #312  
Old 04-09-2013, 09:07 PM
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ZeGerman ZeGerman is online now
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Wow. Either you misunderstood those guys, or they were intentionally trying to fool you. Get that 75W90 out of your transmission immediately! You need the Bentley Service Manual.

Nevertheless, I don't know why you would be suspicious of 0W oil. 95% of cars out there run on some sort of 5W, and 0W isn't that different. Also, Mobil 1 0W40 is a BMW LL98 approved oil for these cars. It protects from far below zero to around 85*F. It never gets anywhere near hot enough here to warrant 20W50.

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  #313  
Old 04-09-2013, 09:13 PM
dhangjr dhangjr is offline
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The oil was my misunderstanding.
Even the chart you posted even seems like 15w is good for oil as it does not really get below 20 degrees very often either. Those days are gone for at least two more oil changes as I change every 3-4 no matter what kind of oil i run. I have 10 40 in now full mobile 1 synth and lucas stabilizer now.


The gear oil in the tranny im concerned about. Dex 3 atf it is! Im going to do this tonight!
Thank you guys.
I have a pdf bently. I rarely look at it...Stupid me for that! I should be cross referencing more of this information.
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  #314  
Old 04-09-2013, 09:19 PM
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ZeGerman ZeGerman is online now
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I think you have a misguided understanding of how oil viscosity and/or that chart works. The 20 in 20W50 means that your oils is going to be extremely thick during the winter months here, where it is regularly in the low 40s and sometimes in the 30s. You are essentially using very thick summer weight oil that would be great for summer in Texas, not winter in the PNW. By running 20W50 in the winter here, you are decreasing the oil's ability to quickly lubricate everything during startup each day, which is when the vast majority of metal on metal wear occurs.
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Last edited by ZeGerman; 04-09-2013 at 09:22 PM.
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  #315  
Old 04-10-2013, 07:39 AM
dhangjr dhangjr is offline
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I read this like 5 times, and I do believe the graph is saying that: in x temperature range the oil remains thin enough for operation. I believe I have the graph wrong...

Also, Id say heaver weight oil is thicker. The first number is how low it can go the second is how high...LOL lamemens for sure. Oil is not my strong point either, 1+1 and the ability to follow directions is.

THis question spawned because I have a small amount of chain noise after doing vanos. Not that I could tell before the vanos. I now believe this noise to be normal.

15-20 w 50 seemed like a good "snow bird" oil to me.
based on the chart 15-50 would be safe from around 0 degrees F and protects at above 80 degrees f. (the reason I want protection beyond 80 is because I go to idaho a lot maybe for the summer to stay and may go all over hell)
Because the it rarely gets to 20 here I thought 20 would be the question to ask for. I must not understand what that chart says or oil at all because Im obviously wrong here. LOL Thanks BTW


I am currently running 10w40 I believe may be 30 id have to look. Regardless That seems like It should be a good medium.

That being said I have put 1500 mi since vanos, and kinda feel like changing the oil soon. Probably will use 0w40 and as always lucas because I believe in that crap for wasting my money lol.

Did the tranny fluid. It is still sometimes tight sometimes clunky into 2nd during the first cold run untill warm. I don't remember it being this way before, but this car has been a story already. Ill see in the next few days. And yes its full. Im not lowered and just barely squeeze my arm up there and fill it on all 4 wheels....
I fear my clutch is on its way out
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  #316  
Old 04-11-2013, 08:07 PM
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dwonda dwonda is offline
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I wouldn't worry about the high temperatures, because really after your engine is warmed up, it doesn't matter where you live, your engine should remain at whatever temp your thermostat is…

Anyhow, this is my first post, just got my 3rd BMW, and this is my first time owning one with an M52. In my 325iS M50, I always used Mobil 1 15w 50 in the summer months. After reading this thread I have some doubts about the brand and the grade…

Just to be clear I know I live in Winnipeg, but I am only concerned about the summer months. Now lets say at night and morning it goes down to 10C the most. 15W 50 would still fit those temperatures correct? BUT even so maybe its worth considering the fact that 0w 40 will have even better lubrication at start up. Am I on the right track? The reason why I leaned towards a heavier oil in the past is because I have a pretty heavy foot, how can you not when driving these engines? Lots of high RPM's, should this make me question 0w 40 providing enough protection?

Now as far as the brand, it seems like people have some good things to say about Castrol, but I'm a little confused as to if any of the good things I've heard about Castrol, apply to Castrol in US/Canada, because I'm definitely not ordering oil from overseas.

I know this topic is old and exhausted but we all live in different places, different engines, different driving styles (maybe) so I think its always worth discussion.
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  #317  
Old 04-11-2013, 10:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwonda View Post
I wouldn't worry about the high temperatures, because really after your engine is warmed up, it doesn't matter where you live, your engine should remain at whatever temp your thermostat is….

Anyhow, this is my first post, just got my 3rd BMW, and this is my first time owning one with an M52. In my 325iS M50, I always used Mobil 1 15w 50 in the summer months. After reading this thread I have some doubts about the brand and the grade….

Just to be clear I know I live in Winnipeg, but I am only concerned about the summer months. Now lets say at night and morning it goes down to 10C the most. 15W 50 would still fit those temperatures correct? BUT even so maybe its worth considering the fact that 0w 40 will have even better lubrication at start up. Am I on the right track? The reason why I leaned towards a heavier oil in the past is because I have a pretty heavy foot, how can you not when driving these engines? Lots of high RPM's, should this make me question 0w 40 providing enough protection?

Now as far as the brand, it seems like people have some good things to say about Castrol, but I'm a little confused as to if any of the good things I've heard about Castrol, apply to Castrol in US/Canada, because I'm definitely not ordering oil from overseas.

I know this topic is old and exhausted but we all live in different places, different engines, different driving styles (maybe) so I think its always worth discussion.

Personally I use Rotella T6 or Mobil 1 (full synthetic for both) 10W40 fall - spring, and 0W40 the other six months. Same as when I was in Calgary. I just buy whichever one is on sale at the time.
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I grew up in a time when the internet was just a baby. Grammar back then versus now... holy cow. You could watch the degradation of society as the internet became more mature.

HAS KEN HAD HIS MEDS YET?
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  #318  
Old 04-11-2013, 10:19 PM
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That makes sense to me, thanks man!
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  #319  
Old 04-11-2013, 10:21 PM
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You're welcome. Good to see more Cannucks here.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hnaz View Post
I grew up in a time when the internet was just a baby. Grammar back then versus now... holy cow. You could watch the degradation of society as the internet became more mature.

HAS KEN HAD HIS MEDS YET?
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  #320  
Old 04-13-2013, 10:11 AM
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dwonda dwonda is offline
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Hey has anyone seen/heard of/have an opinion on these oil pan drain bolts with a magnetic tip? I thought it was kind of a cool idea, I wonder if it works.
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  #321  
Old 04-13-2013, 10:18 AM
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ZeGerman ZeGerman is online now
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Yes, they are very common, and they do work. Many oil pans already have magnets inside them to help collect metal particulate.
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  #322  
Old 04-14-2013, 05:02 AM
dhangjr dhangjr is offline
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I have one on the way. I had to find something to get to the $ amount of free shipping.
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  #323  
Old 04-14-2013, 07:09 PM
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dwonda dwonda is offline
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Interesting, I was reading this Pelican article on how to change oil in an E36 and found this…. "While all of your oil is draining, take the plug from the engine, and carefully clean it with a paper towel. The plug at the bottom of the engine is magnetic, and attracts all the little bits and pieces of metal that get trapped in the engine oil." I didn't test it out to see if it was magnetic or not, but it didn't exactly grab on to the oil pan, but it is a hollow screw.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/tech...Oil-Change.htm
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  #324  
Old 04-14-2013, 07:47 PM
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It didn't grab the oil pan because the oil pan is cast aluminum.
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  #325  
Old 04-14-2013, 08:07 PM
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dwonda dwonda is offline
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Ah right, good point.
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