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E30 (1982 - 1993)
God's Chariot. The E30 was produced primarily from 1982 through 1991. The cabriolet was the one exception which was produced through 1993.

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  #26  
Old 04-02-2013, 06:22 PM
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it in the glovebox on LHD cars. My pet peev with using forums. most of them are american based and therefore LHD, i HATE words like drivers side passengers side etc when used inappropriately. thats why youll never see me use the words unless directly related etc.

that will be the actual VIN of the car on the side of the ECU.
click here if you want proof
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/select.do?vin=AB84146
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  #27  
Old 04-03-2013, 12:34 AM
N-Gen N-Gen is offline
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I'll use right and left side from now on :P I figured the ECU would have been the safest bet. So that means the ECU location is fine? Is it safe to disconnect it and move it to the glove box top compartment or is that just asking for trouble?

I've also figured my problem might not be the starter motor. I realised after I had started and driven it successfully last Saturday, instead of the dash check lights all (or most) lighting up when the key is turned, only the battery check light is. There are no sounds of anything starting or any motor clicks. It's just dead silent. Electrics are all operational apart from the ventilation (which was not working anyway) and the electric mirrors, which had previously been working. Fuses seem to be all good and I have no idea where to go from here.
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  #28  
Old 04-03-2013, 12:43 AM
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_Ethrty-Andy_ _Ethrty-Andy_ is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N-Gen View Post
So that means the ECU location is fine? Is it safe to disconnect it and move it to the glove box top compartment or is that just asking for trouble?
why?

the factory location for the ECU in a RHD E30 is just to the right of the steering column. the engine loom wont be long enough for you to move it to the other side and is totally the wrong shape
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  #29  
Old 04-03-2013, 12:45 AM
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Purely for aesthetic reasons. I'll just make a shroud for it and get it covered nicely, that should be fine.
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  #30  
Old 04-03-2013, 12:49 AM
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Originally Posted by N-Gen View Post
Purely for aesthetic reasons. I'll just make a shroud for it and get it covered nicely, that should be fine.
dont take it the wrong way, but i dont think you will be doing that. there are roughly 40 wires you will have to extend to make it work.

if you insist, the easiest way would be to get an E36 316i loom and use that. the fuse box is on the E36 is on the left hand side in the engine bay.

but i dont understand why you would want to. i think your time is better spent in other places on this car
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  #31  
Old 04-03-2013, 01:09 AM
N-Gen N-Gen is offline
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Not taking anything the wrong way, no problem. After all, I wouldn't be here if I didn't want advice

I'll leave the ECU where it is, that's probably the best choice as you said. Don't want to waste precious time doing something silly just for a minor aesthetic gain.
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  #32  
Old 04-06-2013, 06:45 AM
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Put a fully charged battery in, nothing happened, battery light was still on when the key was turned. Primed the starter and the starter turned with no problem. It seems like somewhere there might be something disconnected as there is simply no current going into the starter motor.

I did find disconnected cables in the car and under the hood but I have no idea if those should actually be related, and if they aren't related, of course I'd still like to know what they are.

The first photo shows the disconnected cables under the dash, the second one shows a disconnected plug with cables going into the engine and the air filter.



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  #33  
Old 04-06-2013, 10:15 PM
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connect up the ones on under the dash. if they don't go together, dont force them. BMW use clips with specific grooves/shapes etc in them, if they aren't supposed to go together they won't.
as for the one in the engine bay, its a redundant wire. my E30 316i had the same. im pretty sure its for the emissions equipment that is required in some countries
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  #34  
Old 04-09-2013, 10:08 AM
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Sorted the starter problem, bypassed the ignition cable that goes into a relay, directly to the starter and the engine turned. It did not start but that's probably because I removed the alarm and the immobiliser kicked in. Started some work on the seats, getting the rust off the railing and respraying.
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  #35  
Old 04-11-2013, 09:16 AM
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Got down to the garage yesterday, put the alarm on and the engine started. Dash lights were still all off along with temp and fuel gauge, turns out the fuse was blown.

Done a bit of work today. Finished getting the rust off the seat railings and respraying them. Adjusted the brake pedal and the brake light switch. Removed both mirrors for respraying and motor attention. Was in the process of getting the bumpers off but the bolts are too rusty, need to find a way to get them off.








Last edited by N-Gen; 04-11-2013 at 09:18 AM.
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  #36  
Old 04-29-2013, 11:50 PM
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A few updates. The car right now is at my mechanic as I have been bogged down with other things. Giving it a quick look it, on the positive side it seems all the brake pads, shoes and wheel cylinder have been put in new before I got the car.

On the "not so good" side, it went in to get its timing belt sorted as well as sourcing a coolant leak. By the looks of it, it seems like I'm going to have to replace my radiator.
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  #37  
Old 07-17-2013, 09:41 AM
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Right, so, it has been a while since I posted and quite a lot has happened in real life (such as getting proper job), but not that much to the car. However I did budget and plan what's going to happen to it as it is my #1 priority.

Since my last post I ended up getting a new radiator which is branded Shuberg, have been doing fine with it since the installation, the older radiator was destroyed...literally. Other than that I haven't really done anything to it since as my monetary resources were quite limited.

I went to visit a panel beater a couple of times. This guy does not make his living on this but is a car enthusiast. After looking at some of his work, on his own cars and others (mainly Fords, one of which happened to be featured on a magazine) I decided I should get a quote to get the old girl sorted. He's estimating around 1050/$1,375(US) to get all the rust out which is mainly the rear underside, all 4 arches and the engine bay, sort all the dents and fix some holes and remove some support bars that were placed by one of the previous owners in order to use a tow bar. That being said I will need a front right side mudguard as it is ruined.

After that I'll need to get it fully resprayed as most of it is going to be touched up. My friend's father is a sprayer, therefore I might get a good deal. I decided to stick with the original colour as personally I think it's quite nice.

Now, on to some other things I've planned, my goals up till May of 2014, I'm not going into really expensive stuff for the aesthetics.

I'm looking at spraying the carpets black using carpet dye as well as replacing the front seats with Sparco R100 Sky seats, after that reupholstering the rear seats in the same fashion as the Sparcos.
Replace the wheels with a set of Calibre Vintage wheels in 17" 8J. Changing the headlamps to black angel eye headlights and changing the stock kidney grill with a black one. I'm tempted to add a boot spoiler not for aesthetics but because of the powerplant change.

I've included getting all the braces and bars in the budget as well as a proper set of coilovers, possibly BC racing. To the relief (probably) of the people that have read this thread, I decided I'll move away from getting a Nissan engine into it and find myself a nice M50B25 or M52B25/28.

Of course any suggestions regarding my decision will be appreciated
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  #38  
Old 07-18-2013, 02:16 AM
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Thumbs up I knew you would see the light ;)

Quote:
To the relief of the people that have read this thread, I decided I'll move away from getting a Nissan engine into it and find myself a nice M50B25 or M52B25/28.
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  #39  
Old 08-19-2013, 04:12 PM
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Got an offer I couldn't really refused. I was going to buy BBS RS replicas eventually, but last week I got an offer from a friend of mine I was building a pc for. He wanted a trade for a set of BBS RS replicas, have not determined what brand but I brought them around to try them on.

17"x7.5j fronts and 17"x8.5j rears with stretch. Outer rim in chrome, inner coated white. What got me the most were the tyres, brand new Falken ZIEX ZE912, 195/40/17 fronts and 205/40/17 rears. Considering my tyres needed changing anyway, and the swap costing me around 600euros, as roughly that would be spent on pc parts and the rest on work being done, which would still be cheaper than retail. So I think it was a good deal!

No photos yet, had to stop when I started fitting one of the rears, since they're stretched they scrape at the back. Will get a pair of 5mm spacers and see how that goes.
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  #40  
Old 11-21-2013, 05:04 AM
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Sealed the deal for a M50B25 and 5 speed MT from an E36 325i, waiting for the additional items required for the conversion to be available and having everything shipped together.
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