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E46 (1999 - 2006)
The fourth generation 3 Series (E46 chassis) was introduced in 1999 and set the standard for engineering and performance during it's years of production including being named to Car & Driver's 10 best list every one of those years! ! -- View the E46 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 04-06-2013, 07:26 AM
davondenhuevel davondenhuevel is offline
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Angry Water leaking out of metal pipe.

My wife over heated the 2000 323i, no mods. And now, water is leaking out of the front end of the car from where it apperes to have 2 metal lines connecting to the back of the thermostat housing or the water pump. Can anyone tell me what to open up so I can see better or give me an idea of what is going on. I need this car pronto for work.
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  #2  
Old 04-06-2013, 07:46 AM
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The critical question is, "How long did the engine continue to run after overheating was noticed ?"....
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Old 04-06-2013, 07:52 AM
davondenhuevel davondenhuevel is offline
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maybe 10 minutes. water coming out under pressure when motor is running.
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Old 04-06-2013, 07:56 AM
davondenhuevel davondenhuevel is offline
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Maybe 10 minutes. Water is coming out under pressure beneath that silver cylinder. There are 2 hard, maybe metal pipes under there and the water is flowing from where the pipe connects to the thermostat or water pump. I don't know which.
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  #5  
Old 04-06-2013, 07:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davondenhuevel View Post
maybe 10 minutes. water coming out under pressure when motor is running.
It`s quite possible that you have sustained more damage than you think. Have a compression/leakdown test performed to better diagnose the situation.
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Old 04-06-2013, 08:02 AM
davondenhuevel davondenhuevel is offline
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is that something the shop would have to do
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  #7  
Old 04-06-2013, 08:03 AM
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is that something the shop would have to do
Yes.
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  #8  
Old 04-06-2013, 08:05 AM
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going a little overboard there bob. its not like all the coolant was lost in a few seconds. it was just leaking under pressure meaning the engine had coolant still circulating.

there are 2 plastic coolant pipes underneath the manifold. get those replaced and pressure test the system to verify there are no other leaks. start the car and if it runs fine dont even bother with the compression/leakdown test.
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Old 04-06-2013, 08:23 AM
davondenhuevel davondenhuevel is offline
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that's what I think happened but are where are some good write ups about how to remove those pipes so I can check. What are the part numbers so I might order them. It wont leak unless I fill it full. If slightly less then the system will hold water.

Last edited by davondenhuevel; 04-06-2013 at 08:24 AM.
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  #10  
Old 04-06-2013, 11:06 AM
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I hope your engine is ok. Overheating for anything more than a minute or two can be disastrous in these cars. The fix for these pipes involves removing the intake manifold which is quite a bit of work and there's a fair amount of while you're in there stuff to do as well. The point of the compression/leakdown is to see if you hosed your head gasket. If so, you really need to think about whether or not you want to try to rebuild vs. finding a used engine vs. walking away. Lots of threads out there on this exact discussion.
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  #11  
Old 04-06-2013, 11:16 AM
davondenhuevel davondenhuevel is offline
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engine should be fine. I didn't see any water in the oil or clouds of steam coming from the tail pipe like a blown head gasket.
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  #12  
Old 04-06-2013, 11:13 PM
GoForthFast GoForthFast is offline
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Two hard pipes are composite pipes, and as stated, intake manifold has to come off to access. Very nasty job most likely above your pay grade on this one. Experienced DIY'ers say this is one of the worst jobs.

Can find these pipes by using www.realoem.com with your VIN.
Drill down to cooling system.

Sample: http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...00&hg=11&fg=35
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  #13  
Old 04-07-2013, 12:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoForthFast View Post
Two hard pipes are composite pipes, and as stated, intake manifold has to come off to access. Very nasty job most likely above your pay grade on this one. Experienced DIY'ers say this is one of the worst jobs.

Can find these pipes by using www.realoem.com with your VIN.
Drill down to cooling system.

Sample: http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...00&hg=11&fg=35
stop telling people jobs are "above their paygrade." not everyone is as inexperienced as you are when it comes to working on cars.

its just nuts and bolts. not so hard. pulling the manifold is straight forward. all you do is remove parts in order to remove another part.
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  #14  
Old 04-07-2013, 05:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chansta View Post
stop telling people jobs are "above their paygrade." not everyone is as inexperienced as you are when it comes to working on cars.

its just nuts and bolts. not so hard. pulling the manifold is straight forward. all you do is remove parts in order to remove another part.
To be fair I'd say 80% of people that drop by here looking for a quick diagnosis are usually less DIY capable. While that is not a sure thing, there are several very experienced gear heads here with LOTS of experience in both e46 wrenching as well as in general.

Back to the OP, I highly suggest a leakdown test as these engines are much more sensitive to overheating than just about any other car I've owned. The problem lies in the Al/Mg block head combo. Once the engine has overheated for any length of time(I'm worried after about 5min) the head and block can warp and you will need to send the head out at least for machining.

I know you said you need to get the car back roadworthy as your DD, but a leakdown test will save you the time, effort, and money of throwing parts back on if the system isn't integral.

My two cents take it for what it's worth, that's been my experience with the two e46's I've owned and maintained myself including full cooling system overhauls on both. Most e46 owners consider replacing the full cooling system every 60-80k as a PM item. Good luck and let us know what happens.
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  #15  
Old 04-07-2013, 08:50 AM
GoForthFast GoForthFast is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chansta View Post
stop telling people jobs are "above their paygrade." not everyone is as inexperienced as you are when it comes to working on cars.

its just nuts and bolts. not so hard. pulling the manifold is straight forward. all you do is remove parts in order to remove another part.
Pardon; should have pointed this advice directly at you.
chansta: do not attempt this job as you have so many screws loose that things will never be the same ever again.
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  #16  
Old 04-07-2013, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by GoForthFast View Post
Pardon; should have pointed this advice directly at you.
chansta: do not attempt this job as you have so many screws loose that things will never be the same ever again.
why dont u recommend him to look at his "hidden obc functions" to try and fix his problem.

that seems to be the solution for everything for you.
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  #17  
Old 04-07-2013, 11:39 AM
GoForthFast GoForthFast is offline
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why dont u recommend him to look at his "hidden obc functions" to try and fix his problem.

that seems to be the solution for everything for you.
Confirmation of screw loose theory!

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  #18  
Old 04-07-2013, 02:25 PM
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These references should help the OP (note that I stopped at 50 a long time ago):
- Summary advice to provide users who suspect a major engine repair due to overheating (1) (2) (3) (4) & how to test an engine for a blown head gasket, cracked heads, a warped block, stripped head bolt threads, cam seizures, contaminated bearings, coolant hydrolock, or piston, ring, or valve damage (1) (2) & what are the major factors in deciding whether to rebuild the engine, replace the engine, or sell the car (1) & a DIY for replacing the I6 M54 head gasket (1) (2) & replacing the V8 M62TU head gasket (1) & why these engines are so prone to heat-related damage in the first place (1) & welding the crack between cylinder #3 and the water jacket on the exhaust side (1) & what engine swaps are most recommended (1) (2) (3) & where to obtain a new or rebuilt head (1) replacement short block or long block (1) (2) & how to lift & remove the engine (1) & the most recent real-world results from the last 50 people faced with similar blown engine problems from which this advice came from (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) (9) (10) (11) (12) (13) (14) (15) (16) (17) (18) (19) (20) (21) (22) (23) (24) (25) (26) (27) (28) (29) (30) (31) (32) (33) (34) (35) (36) (37) (38) (39) (40) (41) (42) (43) (44) (45) (46) (47) (48) (49) (50)
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  #19  
Old 04-07-2013, 09:18 PM
Jimmys 530i Jimmys 530i is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoForthFast View Post
Pardon; should have pointed this advice directly at you.
chansta: do not attempt this job as you have so many screws loose that things will never be the same ever again.
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoForthFast View Post
Two hard pipes are composite pipes, and as stated, intake manifold has to come off to access. Very nasty job most likely above your pay grade on this one. Experienced DIY'ers say this is one of the worst jobs.

Can find these pipes by using www.realoem.com with your VIN.
Drill down to cooling system.

Sample: http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...00&hg=11&fg=35
Are you serious? Have you ever changed the pipes, or even removed an intake boot? This is a very simple job, it takes me 2.5 hours to change them.
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Old 04-07-2013, 10:09 PM
GoForthFast GoForthFast is offline
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This is a very simple job, it takes me 2.5 hours to change them.
Did the car run ever again?
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  #21  
Old 04-08-2013, 12:07 AM
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its funny because goforthfast posts alot of information of which she has no personal experience with at all.

talks about testing for parasitic draw and blah blah but shes never done these tests for herself. i guess you can say the same goes with these 2 pipes that run underneath the manifold.
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Old 04-08-2013, 05:03 AM
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Ok, enough with this BS, let's get back on track with helping the OP sniping is accomplishing nothing.
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  #23  
Old 04-08-2013, 05:45 AM
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Ok, enough with this BS, let's get back on track with helping the OP sniping is accomplishing nothing.
Agreed....get your feces cohesive, boys....
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Old 04-08-2013, 04:44 PM
Jimmys 530i Jimmys 530i is offline
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Originally Posted by GoForthFast View Post
Did the car run ever again?
I work professionally as a BMW mechanic. I am fairly certain that I can get the job done.
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  #25  
Old 04-08-2013, 04:58 PM
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Interesting how this thread came up. My coolant hoses that go to the block are leaking and my head gasket isn't actually blown!. There are O-rings on those hoses as well that eventually go bad. As Jimmy stated above it's not entirely that hard of a job. Remove the intake manifold is the hardest part really.
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