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E46 (1999 - 2006)
The fourth generation 3 Series (E46 chassis) was introduced in 1999 and set the standard for engineering and performance during it's years of production including being named to Car & Driver's 10 best list every one of those years! ! -- View the E46 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 04-04-2013, 03:08 PM
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Scottji Scottji is online now
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Realistic DIY time for Motor Mounts

What's a realistic time estimate for me to do my motor mounts by jacking it from the bottom of the oil pan with a 2x4? I'd call myself moderately capable, having done CVV, OFHG, complete suspension rebuild, cooling system rebuild, giubo/CSB, and a few other odds and ends.

The best labor quote I got was for $160, for two hours, from my local indy who I trust. I'm a little short on time, which is why I might just let the mechanic do it, unless the consensus is that it can be done in my garage in two hours or so.
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  #2  
Old 04-04-2013, 04:28 PM
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MalibuMafiaV MalibuMafiaV is offline
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Motor mounts are extremely easy to do. You jack the front up and put it on jack stands. Then loosen the motor mounts. Jack the motor up by the oil pan with a jack just enough to slip the motor mounts out and then slip the new ones in and bolt them back on. It's probably one of the easiest jobs to do on an E46. Time wise it would take a professional mechanic 30 minutes.
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  #3  
Old 04-04-2013, 04:55 PM
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Good to know. In that case, sounds like something I could do myself. Thx for the info.
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  #4  
Old 04-04-2013, 10:48 PM
GoForthFast GoForthFast is offline
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Mechanic might do it in 45 minutes. YOU'LL take many multiples of that. And best to spend the $60 for the Harbor Freight engine brace.
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  #5  
Old 04-05-2013, 06:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoForthFast View Post
Mechanic might do it in 45 minutes. YOU'LL take many multiples of that. And best to spend the $60 for the Harbor Freight engine brace.
+1 lifting the motor is always better than pushing it up from below, which can cause significant damage if done improperly. The motor has front and rear lifting rings that are clearly visible. You will also find it useful to put your hood into the service position, as it gives you more room to operate.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...rvice-Position
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  #6  
Old 04-05-2013, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by GoForthFast View Post
Mechanic might do it in 45 minutes. YOU'LL take many multiples of that. And best to spend the $60 for the Harbor Freight engine brace.
"Many multiples" of that doesn't sound like this is a quick job that some are making it out to be.
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  #7  
Old 04-05-2013, 10:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SJBimmer View Post
+1 lifting the motor is always better than pushing it up from below, which can cause significant damage if done improperly. The motor has front and rear lifting rings that are clearly visible. You will also find it useful to put your hood into the service position, as it gives you more room to operate.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...rvice-Position
I'm comfortable lifting the motor from the oil pan. I have a length of 2x6 I can put under it. Our aluminum motors aren't that heavy by comparison, and I've done motor mounts on a Jeep Wrangler by lifting it from the oil pan with a jack and block of wood.
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  #8  
Old 04-05-2013, 11:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SJBimmer View Post
+1 lifting the motor is always better than pushing it up from below, which can cause significant damage if done improperly. The motor has front and rear lifting rings that are clearly visible. You will also find it useful to put your hood into the service position, as it gives you more room to operate.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...rvice-Position
Meh... I've done engine mounts with no engine brace and they way I stated above many times. Works fine. Just don't lift it to much at all and your fine. As I said JUST enough to slip the mounts out.
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  #9  
Old 04-05-2013, 01:38 PM
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Anyone done this with dropping motor support brackets, as opposed to lifting motor? I just saw a DIY where the guy did one side at a time by supporting the motor, dropped one bracket, swapped the mount, replaced it, and then did the other side the same way. That way the jack isn't supporting all the weight of the motor, and there's no need to try to wrangle the mount in and out -- rather, just four bolts on each bracket.
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  #10  
Old 04-05-2013, 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by MalibuMafiaV View Post
Meh... I've done engine mounts with no engine brace and they way I stated above many times. Works fine. Just don't lift it to much at all and your fine. As I said JUST enough to slip the mounts out.
I wasn't badmouthing you! LOL. I just have an aversion to lifting motors from the bottom. It could be due to the fact that I jacked up a motor WAAAY back when by the harmonic balancer. Cost me quite a few dollars to fix it. Didn't bend the crank, but I broke the timing chain cover, and a few other parts. I also discovered that you actually CAN separate the outer ring of the harmonic balancer from the rubber underneath.
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  #11  
Old 04-05-2013, 03:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SJBimmer View Post
I wasn't badmouthing you! LOL. I just have an aversion to lifting motors from the bottom. It could be due to the fact that I jacked up a motor WAAAY back when by the harmonic balancer. Cost me quite a few dollars to fix it. Didn't bend the crank, but I broke the timing chain cover, and a few other parts. I also discovered that you actually CAN separate the outer ring of the harmonic balancer from the rubber underneath.
I know you weren't bud lol. ****! that doesn't sound like you had a good time at all . But I mean I've done stuff like that to only to learn from it. I think we've all broke something while learning at least once or twice!.... I know I have
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  #12  
Old 04-05-2013, 11:16 PM
GoForthFast GoForthFast is offline
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Quote:
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Anyone done this with dropping motor support brackets, as opposed to lifting motor? .
Sure, guy over on e46fanatics.com outlines his dropping the engine support when supported from above by engine brace to make easy the ball joints!
Can do mounts the same way.
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  #13  
Old 04-06-2013, 11:55 AM
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I suppose this is also an option.




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  #14  
Old 04-06-2013, 01:50 PM
GoForthFast GoForthFast is offline
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Creativity appreciated!! That would be one way, but just to save $60? And not equally safe.
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  #15  
Old 04-06-2013, 02:26 PM
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I suppose this is also an option.




Is it just me, or does that 4x4 appear to be bending in the middle?
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  #16  
Old 04-06-2013, 04:40 PM
QAfred QAfred is offline
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I used this engine support that I purchased from Harbor Freight. Some day you'll need one in order to change the Oil Pan Gasket, so you might consider buying it now.
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  #17  
Old 04-06-2013, 06:04 PM
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Did it with a jack and block of wood (2x6), placed just behind the front subframe. Jacking it up was the easy part. The hard part was wiggling the passenger side mount out. I ended up just dropping the engine bracket, which I should have done in the first place.
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