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E34 (1989 - 1995)

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  #1  
Old 04-21-2013, 12:23 PM
rickk83 rickk83 is offline
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Mein Auto: 1990 BMW 525i
1990 525i speed wobble between 55-65

Help,

I have an issue with my 90 525i. whenever i go between the speeds 55-65 i get a nasty/ scary speed wobble. I put car jack stands this morning to start seeing if any of my rubber joints are going out and cant find one wore down at all. They all look in decent shape. but if go any faster and or slower than those speeds it runs just fine. i have no clue and need help. please help!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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  #2  
Old 04-21-2013, 11:09 PM
President President is offline
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Mein Auto: 1995 E34 525i A
I am facing an identical problem myself. With a little study from the forum I understand that it could be caused by front shocks and/or front upper/lower control arms which could be tired and need replacement.
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  #3  
Old 04-22-2013, 05:25 AM
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BMR_LVR BMR_LVR is offline
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That shimmy is most often caused by worn thrust arm bushings and or ball joints. However, if the suspension has never been refreshed (especially considering that the car is 23 years old), then the entire front end is due for an overhaul if you want the car handling like new again. Also, there are other things that can cause it, but worn suspension components are almost always the culprit.

Having said that, I know that not everybody's budget can accommodate that, especially if quality parts (Lemforder or Myele) are used.

Keep in mind to replace front suspension parts in pairs, i.e. both thrust arms at the same time. If your budget is tight I would replace the thrust arms, lower control arms and, if financially feasible, tie rods.

Just know that you can find some inexpensive kits from FCP Groton, but there are mixed reviews on the quality and longevity of those parts.

Good luck.
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Last edited by BMR_LVR; 04-22-2013 at 05:26 AM.
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  #4  
Old 04-22-2013, 09:40 PM
rickk83 rickk83 is offline
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thnaks yall... i was have also been asking my mechanic friends and they all said same thing about the shocks....... but when i was under the car and checking stuff out the the trust arms and all my rubber seals and everything are in great shape and not loose and in reading more and more into the older forums i found out that if its the thrust arms when i brake it would confirm it being the arms, but i did a simple test on my suspension and need to replace them and the mechanics i have talked to said that is more than likely my problem... thanks for your help!
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  #5  
Old 04-22-2013, 11:35 PM
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_Ethrty-Andy_ _Ethrty-Andy_ is offline
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Mein Auto: E34 Touring AC Schnitzer
very very common problem on E31/E32 and E34 cars, will without fail be either the thrust arm bushings or the brake disks.
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  #6  
Old 04-23-2013, 12:35 AM
President President is offline
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Brake Discs ruled out as I got mine replaced with OE discs and pads from Germany and she still shimmers.
I have narrowed down to control arms and/or front shocks.
Going step by step to figure it out and pin point.
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  #7  
Old 04-23-2013, 05:18 AM
snowsled7 snowsled7 is offline
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On most cars, shocks would be a good answer. On the e34, thrust arm bushings and the ball joints, as mentioned are almost always the cause of the shimmy on these cars.

Do you have leaking shock cartridges? That would be when they need replacement or if the car has become floaty over big road imperfections and crashes on small ones.

For these cars though, I bet shocks will not fix it. Better plan on uppers, lowers and tie rods... also mentioned earlier
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  #8  
Old 04-23-2013, 07:07 AM
President President is offline
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Sounds Good! Understood. Am going to try the arms first and thereon.
Thanks for the advise.
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  #9  
Old 04-23-2013, 02:47 PM
upallnight upallnight is offline
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Are you guys with the wobble running rims that came with the car or are you guy using some other rims such as from an E39. If you have the wobble and don't have stock rim check to se that the hub bore in the rims are the same size as the hubs on the car. If not you need to get bubcentric rings.
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  #10  
Old 04-23-2013, 09:38 PM
President President is offline
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My car is completely stock and running on stock rims and set up. So though I agree with your theory, it is still ruled out here.
Thanks for your input.
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  #11  
Old 04-24-2013, 06:10 AM
upallnight upallnight is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by President View Post
My car is completely stock and running on stock rims and set up. So though I agree with your theory, it is still ruled out here.
Thanks for your input.
I was replying to the original person that posted this thread. You just happen to hijack his thread.
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  #12  
Old 04-24-2013, 06:31 AM
allenbee allenbee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by upallnight View Post
Are you guys with the wobble running rims that came with the car or are you guy using some other rims such as from an E39. If you have the wobble and don't have stock rim check to se that the hub bore in the rims are the same size as the hubs on the car. If not you need to get bubcentric rings.
Quote:
Originally Posted by President View Post
My car is completely stock and running on stock rims and set up. So though I agree with your theory, it is still ruled out here.
Thanks for your input.
Quote:
Originally Posted by upallnight View Post
I was replying to the original person that posted this thread. You just happen to hijack his thread.

He could be forgiven for thinking the question was addressed to himself and the other dude at the same time.
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  #13  
Old 04-24-2013, 09:25 AM
President President is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by upallnight View Post
Are you guys with the wobble running rims that came with the car or are you guy using some other rims such as from an E39. If you have the wobble and don't have stock rim check to se that the hub bore in the rims are the same size as the hubs on the car. If not you need to get bubcentric rings.
Sorry, I never meant to hijack but you have addressed your question to all of us in general, and that is the way it sounded.
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  #14  
Old 04-24-2013, 09:02 PM
rickk83 rickk83 is offline
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ok so..... yall are recommending to try the thrust arms first then..... because since ive posted this thread it has very very very very slowly and very little to no shaking when i brake no... so i will start there and hope all goes well... is it to replace the arms is my next question lol.... + plus any certain arms i should get? i am on a budget but need this sweet ride rollin by end of next month as i am traveling with it and need it to be done lol thanks all of you for your input i really appreciate it
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  #15  
Old 04-24-2013, 09:32 PM
bennyg1 bennyg1 is offline
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Had same shimmy. New heavy duty poly bushings, idler arm, tie rods, steering alignment. No shimmy

Mine came on very shortly after I bought it 3 months ago. It was barely there until a couple of weeks ago when it suddenly got loads worse. Thats when I decided it needed to be fixed, mech said good call since apparently something was dangerously on the verge of letting go in a big way.

Last edited by bennyg1; 04-24-2013 at 09:35 PM.
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  #16  
Old 04-25-2013, 05:50 AM
snowsled7 snowsled7 is offline
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Location: SW Mountains
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rickk83 View Post
ok so..... yall are recommending to try the thrust arms first then..... because since ive posted this thread it has very very very very slowly and very little to no shaking when i brake no... so i will start there and hope all goes well... is it to replace the arms is my next question lol.... + plus any certain arms i should get? i am on a budget but need this sweet ride rollin by end of next month as i am traveling with it and need it to be done lol thanks all of you for your input i really appreciate it

If you can only replace one thing right now, replace the thrust arm bushings. Or get under there and determine what else may be badly worn. There are lots of parts, lots of flexible joints to wear out. They are pretty much all worn out by 100k miles. Most of the time a mechanic identifies a part or two in need of replacement so all of your front end is probably not the same age anymore.

The best solution is to replace it all together. Next best is probably upper and lower arms. Then work on the steering components, idler, pitman, tie rods. The swaybar links deteriorate as well but are not the cause of the shimmy.
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  #17  
Old 04-25-2013, 09:10 AM
upallnight upallnight is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rickk83 View Post
ok so..... yall are recommending to try the thrust arms first then..... because since ive posted this thread it has very very very very slowly and very little to no shaking when i brake no... so i will start there and hope all goes well... is it to replace the arms is my next question lol.... + plus any certain arms i should get? i am on a budget but need this sweet ride rollin by end of next month as i am traveling with it and need it to be done lol thanks all of you for your input i really appreciate it
You never replied to the question regarding the wheels. Since this is happening when the car is not under braking I would check the wheels. You may have a bent rim.
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  #18  
Old 04-25-2013, 11:44 PM
Mr._Graybeard Mr._Graybeard is offline
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Sometimes you can see the failure in the thrust arm bushing if you look closely enough. The triangular collar that the bolt fits through can crack. If that's visible the bushing is obviously toast.

I opted for Lemfoerder 750il bushings installed in Lem thrust arms by my parts shop, BMA Parts, at 125K miles. I'm coming up on 234K without a wobble. For performance there are tighter alternatives, but I'm happy with my choice for durability.
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  #19  
Old 05-05-2013, 11:32 PM
djchuck djchuck is offline
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Mein Auto: 1995 525i Sedan
1990 525i speed wobble between 55-65

I would say have your wheels checked... I get that shudder too and it only started after I put some wheels I got on Craigslist on the car with some hub centric spacers... Right about 55 bam shudder.. Clears around 60mph

Just had front end checked and control arms replaced and it was fine before wheel change.


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  #20  
Old 05-06-2013, 09:02 PM
djchuck djchuck is offline
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Mein Auto: 1995 525i Sedan
1990 525i speed wobble between 55-65

Another thread guy had the same problem and he said it ended up being his thrust arm bushings.


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  #21  
Old 05-07-2013, 05:10 AM
snowsled7 snowsled7 is offline
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Yep, and I have said it twice in this thread alone, accompanied by many of the other regulars....

Thrust arm bushings. I would replace the whole arm and get a new balljoint in the deal as well.
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  #22  
Old 05-09-2013, 05:59 PM
Jay. Jay. is offline
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1990 BMW 525I 2.5L L6 : Suspension : Suspension Kit Price
ÜRO PARTS Part # E3410PCKIT Includes: (4) Control Arms, (2) Sway Bar Links, (3) Tie Rod Assemblies, (1) Idler Arm $183.99 RockAuto.com

Is it worth it??
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  #23  
Old 05-09-2013, 06:05 PM
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BMR_LVR BMR_LVR is offline
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There's an old saying ..... you get what you pay for.

My recommendation is to pay the coin for the good stuff (Lemforder or Myele). I inadvertently ordered the cheap thrust arms for my car once and they only lasted 15K miles.
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Most problems are usually something simple !

Quote:
Originally Posted by noego View Post
It's Deja Poo - as in, I've heard this **** before.
Steve

Calypso Red 1992 525i with 200K miles

1991 735i - Sold
1992 525i - Sold
1995 325is - Sold
2000 528i - Sold

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  #24  
Old 05-09-2013, 07:10 PM
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Bimmerfan84 Bimmerfan84 is offline
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Meyle HD Thrust arms come with the bushing installed and have a 4 year warranty
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  #25  
Old 05-10-2013, 07:00 PM
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Bimmerfan84 Bimmerfan84 is offline
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JFYI I talked to a friend of mine who is a BMW fanatic too and he said do not buy anything URO brand. They are horrible, will not last.
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