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6 Series DIY
6 Series Do It Yourself (DIY) forum.

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  #1  
Old 07-09-2010, 05:52 PM
30yrVeteran 30yrVeteran is offline
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Aftermarket sub/amp DIY

I didn't take a whole bunch of pics as I figured anyone who would tackle this should be able to remove the trunk liner and ski boot without visual aids.

1. Remove ski boot. There are 4 plastic tabs on the seat side that pop out. These are what hold the boot material to the door frame. The the door and trunk-side frame unsnap.

2. Pull floor carpet, tool tray, rear plastic trim on the rear side of the trunk and the left side panel. Your Bose amp will be under that.

3. Disconnect the large connector on the front of the amp and remove enough tape to separate the twisted pairs of wires.

4. Your factory subs are paired as follows:

+ Left = Brown/Yellow; - Left = Red/White
+ Right = Brown/White; - Right = Red/Blue

5. Once you located these, tap into them. I soldered and put heat shrink and then taped it up, but you could use splice connectors if you want. These are high level inputs. I used a cheap amp for now that has high level inputs, but I'll replace that with a pair of high to low level converters and a Rockford Fosgate amp this weekend.

6. Reconnect connector

7. Tap into the battery + as you can see in Pic #9. The yellow connector on the large cable is where I tapped it.

8. Pics #7, 8 and 9 show where I tapped the amp power on connector. This Green/White striped wire on has power when the ignition is ON. People have had some battery drain problems by using an accessory powered source.

9. Run both of these wires with the battery wire running up under the front foam piece and exiting to the left side just in front of the tie down loop.

10. I pulled ground off the lower mount of the factory amp as you can see in Pic #11. Make sure you scratch up the paint so you get a good connection.

11. Zip tie everything up and leave enough wire to reach the amp and allow you to pull the box back (if you ever want to pull it out) without ripping the wires out

12. Build you a box. I built mine out of 3/4" MDF and covered it with black felt. The speakers needed 1.25 cubic feet each for proper tuning. So using my mad math skillz figured out what size I needed. I wanted to make it as shallow as possible so I made it a tall and wide as I could. It ended up being 18" H x 30 1/2" W x 10 3/4" deep. I added 2 inches to the sides in front to keep it off the seat back and give it a bit of room to blow out the ski boot.

12. Seal it up with silicone/caulk and put some baffling material in there and your ready to go.

13. Mount the amp, hook up wires and bump away!

14. My amp is temp so don't knock the install yet. I'll run the wires through some plastic wire cover and clean it up after I install the new amp. But for a cheap amp I still could only turn it up 1/2 way before my ears hurt.

I may make a grill for the front of the ski boot, but it pounds through it now pretty well. If anyone has any questions, feel free to ask.
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  #2  
Old 07-09-2010, 06:18 PM
tampamark tampamark is online now
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That is a great writeup, well documented. It actually looks very simple. I would probably make a cover of some type for the ski boot area, something with holes that you just put a black cloth over to pass the bass.
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  #3  
Old 07-09-2010, 06:31 PM
30yrVeteran 30yrVeteran is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tampamark View Post
That is a great writeup, well documented. It actually looks very simple. I would probably make a cover of some type for the ski boot area, something with holes that you just put a black cloth over to pass the bass.

Thanks! I may do that, but even with the cushion in place, it definitely thumps the back of the front seats lol
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  #4  
Old 07-09-2010, 08:48 PM
tampamark tampamark is online now
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I think I may just cut holes in the ski boot instead of removing it entirely. That way there is some support for the cloth cover. Post pictures when you get your permanent amp installed. I am sure it sounds great!

Have you considered filtering the factory sub's with a crossover? I will probably do this install and limit the factory sub's to mid-low band, cut out the real low and devote the aftermarket sub to providing the punch.
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  #5  
Old 07-10-2010, 08:24 AM
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pablo645 pablo645 is offline
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Excellent write up 30yrVetera. You make this seem so easy. I think I'm going to try this myself but use just one sub woofer instead of two. I like the sound now but sometimes can use a little more deep bass at times. Thanks for sharing this
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  #6  
Old 07-19-2010, 11:50 AM
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damn i wish i woulda seen this before i spent 3k on a custom install. good work!
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  #7  
Old 08-19-2011, 04:16 PM
Badgeroonie Badgeroonie is offline
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Further detail on inputs to existing amplifier.

Hi,

Thanks for taking the time to do this, it has been a very useful start. I want to do something similar, but also want to tap into the rest of the cars speakers as have multiple amps ready to go (I will then decide whether to upgrade those as well). You give the colours for the sub inputs into the amplifier, but do you also have a listing of all the others?

I have not yet been able to find this info and am a little uncertain as to how many input / output channels the existing amp has......I assume it has four for front left, front right, rear left and rear right plus a fifth for the subs?...but there is also a centre speaker, so where is that powered from (NAV only?).

Hope you can help - thanks in advance.
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  #8  
Old 08-20-2011, 08:03 AM
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TxTaz TxTaz is offline
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Take a look at the wiring diagram
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  #9  
Old 08-21-2011, 01:28 AM
Badgeroonie Badgeroonie is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TxTaz View Post
Take a look at the wiring diagram
Hi,

Thanks - that's useful . For anyone following this, I also found the link below which was useful in understanding the wiring diagram:

http://www.bmw-planet.com/diagrams/r...46/symbols.htm

It looks like the centre channel speaker is on its own channel, which I was not expecting - are you able to confirm that for me? I thought it might be bridged across the left and right channels rather than having its own.

Finally, do you know where the crossovers are - built into the amps or at the speakers themselves?

Thanks again.
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  #10  
Old 08-21-2011, 08:28 AM
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TxTaz TxTaz is offline
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The center channel is a seperate channel. It can be turned off.
The x-overs are at the speakers, so in the doors and back side panels.
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  #11  
Old 08-21-2011, 01:53 PM
Badgeroonie Badgeroonie is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TxTaz View Post
The center channel is a seperate channel. It can be turned off.
The x-overs are at the speakers, so in the doors and back side panels.
Hi,

Thanks for that - it is music to my ears as makes my plans easier to do in steps. I have the coupe so also have speakers in the rear shelf. They are full range ones I assume or just a pair of woofers?

Out of interest how did you know that the crossovers are at the speakers? Do you know if it is a full range signal to the woofer, with the tweeter then taken of that wire with a HP crossover at the tweeter? My e46 was like that, so I wonder if similar here.

Thanks again
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  #12  
Old 08-21-2011, 02:30 PM
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TxTaz TxTaz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Badgeroonie View Post
Hi,

Thanks for that - it is music to my ears as makes my plans easier to do in steps. I have the coupe so also have speakers in the rear shelf. They are full range ones I assume or just a pair of woofers?

Out of interest how did you know that the crossovers are at the speakers? Do you know if it is a full range signal to the woofer, with the tweeter then taken of that wire with a HP crossover at the tweeter? My e46 was like that, so I wonder if similar here.

Thanks again
FYI, I have the premium sound (Logic 7) system in my car.

I have 2 woofers in the trunk that vent into the cabin by the rear seats. You should see a vent on each side of the seat on the bottom. The shelf speakers would be full range or at least above 100Hz (if you have woofers). I'm not sure if the signal to the woofer amps are full or not.
I found the passive cross overs in the doors when I pulled them apart to replace the tweeters with Polk silk domes.
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  #13  
Old 09-16-2011, 08:50 PM
JDPSP JDPSP is offline
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Polk

Tx, I have the 2005 645 Coupe and a ton of questions. First one, what's the size of the OEM replacement Polk tweets you put in?
Did you replace any other speakers?

Also, can parking lenses be located for the 2005 645? The floor on both is shot and it's not condensation.

Thanks
JD in Virginia
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  #14  
Old 09-17-2011, 07:32 AM
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Originally Posted by JDPSP View Post
Tx, I have the 2005 645 Coupe and a ton of questions. First one, what's the size of the OEM replacement Polk tweets you put in?
Did you replace any other speakers?

Also, can parking lenses be located for the 2005 645? The floor on both is shot and it's not condensation.

Thanks
JD in Virginia
JD,
I used Polk DB1001 tweeters. They are 1" silk dome. They were the only speakers I replaced as the others work pretty good.

You can get a signal lamp here for $90. I assume that's what you meant by parking lens.
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Last edited by TxTaz; 09-17-2011 at 08:12 AM.
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  #15  
Old 09-17-2011, 07:51 AM
JDPSP JDPSP is offline
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TX, I really appreciate the help on the lenses. I tried and tried to google to no avail. Thank you.
JD
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  #16  
Old 09-17-2011, 08:13 AM
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You're welcome.
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  #17  
Old 08-29-2012, 07:36 AM
blkgem6 blkgem6 is offline
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Thumbs up

great write up. im picking up everything today.
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  #18  
Old 08-29-2012, 07:41 AM
JDPSP JDPSP is offline
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Taz, do you have any idea on how to replace the rear tweeters in the 05 coupe?
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  #19  
Old 08-30-2012, 09:12 AM
Ellicit Ellicit is offline
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On my e60 I had a fuse holder running 40M in between battery +
And I had a kill switch in between the remote wire... this is a good idea for me because I didn't want the subwoofer on all the time.



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  #20  
Old 09-02-2012, 12:04 PM
Bigchagg Bigchagg is online now
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have you or anyone else found any issues with mad vibration noises and rattles??

i put in my 12" earthquake in the boot and it made more rattles than clean bass so i have now taken everything out and put back to standard
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  #21  
Old 04-23-2013, 08:28 PM
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I have a 2004 645ci. My center channel is not working and I was told I need a new amp. It has a 65R-6 951669 Model H67506. Is there another amp that I can use that also has the logic 7. I am able to get a HS6540
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  #22  
Old 04-23-2013, 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by cklayman View Post
I have a 2004 645ci. My center channel is not working and I was told I need a new amp. It has a 65R-6 951669 Model H67506. Is there another amp that I can use that also has the logic 7. I am able to get a HS6540
From what I've read all the logic 7 amps are interchangeable.
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  #23  
Old 11-02-2014, 02:22 PM
Manwithasix Manwithasix is offline
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Center channel for sub

Has anyone tried tapping the center channel speaker wires for a single (additional) subwoofer application?

I suppose I could either tap into the left or right channel subwoofer wires... but I wanted to see if anyone had thoughts on simply tapping into the center channel instead.

I want to have even (left/right) sound but also good bass quality with just one sub...

FYI - what I am working with is an 8" JL sub w/box and a JL 250/1 amp that can receive high level inputs.

Any insight would be most appreciated!

Last edited by Manwithasix; 11-02-2014 at 02:26 PM.
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  #24  
Old 11-04-2014, 06:05 PM
tampamark tampamark is online now
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You could try that, but I would think the amp has an internal crossover and only sends out a mid/high-pass signal. I can't see that speaker getting full range with bass.
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