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7 Series DIY
Do It Yourself forum dedicated for 7 Series BMW Owners

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  #151  
Old 06-29-2012, 05:16 PM
dablk1 dablk1 is offline
dablk1
Location: Maryland
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
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Mein Auto: 2002 745Li
As of right now, the problem has returned. My engine still overheats with coolant loss, but I haven't noticed any leaks whatsoever. I've replaced everything except the waterpump.
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2002 BMW 745Li 102k
1991 Mercedes 300D 2.5 turbo 338k
1993 Mercedes 300E 2.6 192
1995 Mercedes E420 160k
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  #152  
Old 06-29-2012, 09:45 PM
Keif Keif is offline
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Location: Houston, TX
 
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Mein Auto: 2007 Alpina B7
Any water in your oil?

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Black 2007 Alpina B7
Tension strut bushings
 
White 2007 Alpina B7
Supercharger clutch/bearings, replaced exhaust valve/pulled head, sunroof seal, 6000K angel eyes
 
Black 2002 BMW 745Li (sold)
KW v3's, blue angel eyes, 8000K headlights & HID fogs, rebuilt alternator & mounting bracket gasket, sunroof seal, CCVs, plugs, sway bar bushings, timing & valve cover gaskets, valve stem seals, guibo joint, mechatronic sealing sleeve, trans fluid, sanded headlights...
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  #153  
Old 06-30-2012, 12:17 AM
Blackbox760 Blackbox760 is offline
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Mein Auto: 2003 E66 760Li
thanx, I do not know if the V12 has less space inside the V than the V8 but it is very tight in there, I will strip the valley cover off today, I spend half a day yesterday to remove the 12 injectors, two were stuck like anything, I was so glad that the second injector I tried to lift out came out very easy otherwise I would not have known how to get them out. In the end I just took my time, spray a lot of Q20 oil and left the oil to soak in, then I rotated the stuck injector sprayed again, waited again until I could them all out. I will definitely replace the o-rings as well.

I am in the same boat than you, I can not see were my water is disappearing as well, hence my reason to work towards replacing the water pipe inside the V. The previous owner has replaced all the radiator water pipes as well as the complete radiator to try and solve the water issue. I am hoping to find something definite else I will have to look at the alternator o-ring next.
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  #154  
Old 06-30-2012, 06:08 AM
dablk1 dablk1 is offline
dablk1
Location: Maryland
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
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Mein Auto: 2002 745Li
Quote:
Originally Posted by Keif View Post
Any water in your oil?

Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Bimmer App
No and I changed the oil yesterday.
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2002 BMW 745Li 102k
1991 Mercedes 300D 2.5 turbo 338k
1993 Mercedes 300E 2.6 192
1995 Mercedes E420 160k
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  #155  
Old 07-03-2012, 03:33 PM
dablk1 dablk1 is offline
dablk1
Location: Maryland
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 57
Mein Auto: 2002 745Li
Well I did th "coolant pipe" project and my problem returned 2 days later, so I'm pulling the intake again.
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2002 BMW 745Li 102k
1991 Mercedes 300D 2.5 turbo 338k
1993 Mercedes 300E 2.6 192
1995 Mercedes E420 160k
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  #156  
Old 07-07-2012, 02:06 AM
Garland745Li Garland745Li is offline
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Location: Garland TX
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 7
Mein Auto: 745Li
Coolant Pipe Repair

Hey guys got a couple of questions on the coolant pipe repair. I have a puddle of constant flowing green antifreeze coming from the weep hole(class III Leak) and I looked all over the engine for any other areas of leakage. I know it's the coolant pipe because it just started when the weather got hot as hell here in Dallas to just start to drip out a little. It's over 100 degree + days, and the engine taking on all that extra heat probably just disintegrated that cheap seal in the front on the pipe.

Gonna get my kit from bmwpipe.com, waiting on the mail, and wanted to know when I remove the intake manifold is there a gasket under there that needs to be replaced when you go to put it back together to not cause any air leaks? And is there a torque specification when tightening up those 10 nuts?

I use to be a mechanic in the military so I know I can do it in a couple of days because I won't be in a rush. That's all I can think of for now and know I will probably have more along the way but hopefully not too many because Wilson did a hell of job documenting his journey to the dark side, lol.
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  #157  
Old 10-04-2012, 07:20 AM
BUGMAN1 BUGMAN1 is offline
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Location: LV NV
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 1
Mein Auto: 745I
HELLO, i have been reading the post about this weep hole repair, i keep seeing the reference to the all german pipe,

two things where can i get one and also have anyone heard of the bimmerpipe? any opinion there thanks
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  #158  
Old 10-17-2012, 05:29 PM
mumbe mumbe is offline
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Location: Fleming Island, FL
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 28
Mein Auto: 330CI, 750LI
Right side valve cover e66 2006

I have the rt side loose but I do not seem to have enough room with the break lines and ac line how do I free up more room? I managed through the rt side valve cover, timing cover and alt bracket. Not fun but didn't rush.
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  #159  
Old 02-24-2013, 11:54 AM
fratan fratan is offline
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Location: MA
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 201
Mein Auto: 2006 750i
No Expansion Tube Needed

I've had a coolant leak for several months now and since I was going on vacation for a week I decided to drop my 2006 750I with 116,000 miles off to my Indy shop. My Indy mechanic is my 28 year old son who has been taking apart cars since he was a kid. A real prodigy.

The first step was to pull the exhaust and drop the tranny to get to the coolant cover by the block. He had access to see if it was leaking but it wasn't but we decided to replaced it anyways since he was there and I had the part.
The second fix was to put the tranny on the stand and to inspect the GUIBO joint. It was shot. He couldn't believe that I could still drive the car. This wear and tear caused a load bang when downshifting, especially between 2nd and first gears.
The third fix was to take the intake apart and get to the valley pan gasket. Sure enough, that was where my coolant leak was. Here is the fix that he did without having to buy the $450.00 tube kit.
He bought a new tube since the dealer doesn't sell the o-ring separate, He took the o-ring off the front part of the tube. He cut under the adhesive to remove the o-ring from the tube since it was glued on. He then inserted the pipe from the rear of the valley pan, instead of the front. He used a windshield adhesive to glue the o-ring back to the front part of the tube and let the adhesive set over night. He also used the same adhesive to put the valley pan cover back on. Next day, put the intake back on, exhaust, and tranny back in the car and finally I have the ultimate driving machine with no smell of coolant or no more fast jerking downshifting.
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  #160  
Old 04-28-2013, 09:42 PM
TamaToa916 TamaToa916 is offline
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Location: Antioch California
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 23
Mein Auto: 2002 745I
Quote:
Originally Posted by fratan View Post
I've had a coolant leak for several months now and since I was going on vacation for a week I decided to drop my 2006 750I with 116,000 miles off to my Indy shop. My Indy mechanic is my 28 year old son who has been taking apart cars since he was a kid. A real prodigy.

The first step was to pull the exhaust and drop the tranny to get to the coolant cover by the block. He had access to see if it was leaking but it wasn't but we decided to replaced it anyways since he was there and I had the part.
The second fix was to put the tranny on the stand and to inspect the GUIBO joint. It was shot. He couldn't believe that I could still drive the car. This wear and tear caused a load bang when downshifting, especially between 2nd and first gears.
The third fix was to take the intake apart and get to the valley pan gasket. Sure enough, that was where my coolant leak was. Here is the fix that he did without having to buy the $450.00 tube kit.
He bought a new tube since the dealer doesn't sell the o-ring separate, He took the o-ring off the front part of the tube. He cut under the adhesive to remove the o-ring from the tube since it was glued on. He then inserted the pipe from the rear of the valley pan, instead of the front. He used a windshield adhesive to glue the o-ring back to the front part of the tube and let the adhesive set over night. He also used the same adhesive to put the valley pan cover back on. Next day, put the intake back on, exhaust, and tranny back in the car and finally I have the ultimate driving machine with no smell of coolant or no more fast jerking downshifting.
Can you explain further or aves pix? This sounds very interesting about his fix...if no pix maybe a drawing?
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  #161  
Old 04-29-2013, 11:19 AM
fratan fratan is offline
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Location: MA
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 201
Mein Auto: 2006 750i
Can't take any pictures now that the valleypan is back in and put back together. My son is an amazing mechanic, 28 years old, gifted. He fixed my wifes 745i this weekend by replacing the bridge seal adapter inside the tranny. I called the distributor for ZF transmissions and he said that 99% of the time the bridge seals crack and needs to be replaced. We were getting the 507c, 507b, 4F97 codes in Inpa. After fixing the bridge seal the codes cleared themselves. Car has a lot more power because the crack adapter seal is a pressure loss causing all kinds of codes.

Getting back to the coolant fix, he bought the valley pan tube from the dealer and at the end it had an o-ring. Instead of coming in from the front of the car and taking apart all that crap he had access to the back of the engine block because the exhaust and tranny was taken off to fix the coolant cover on the back of the engine. That cover wasn't leaking but we replaced it anyways. He cut the o-ring off the tube and was able to install the tube from the rear of the engine block and then glued the o-ring back on with windshield adhesive. Then made the valley pan seal with the same stuff. I've been running the car now for a couple months and not a drop is leaking.
All I have left to do is head gasket and tranny change with new bridge seal.
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  #162  
Old 04-29-2013, 08:36 PM
TamaToa916 TamaToa916 is offline
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Location: Antioch California
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 23
Mein Auto: 2002 745I
Got it ...you're a blessed man
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  #163  
Old 10-04-2013, 01:03 PM
schpenxel schpenxel is offline
DIY'er
Location: Greensboro, NC
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 3,274
Mein Auto: 2004 545i
Subscribed--I have been looking for this thread for weeks now--I kept thinking Keif had made it, sorry Wilson!

One note: to pull the head, you do NOT need to unbolt the exhaust manifold from the head first. You can simply disconnect it from the rest of the exhaust system (2 nuts), remove the O2 sensors, and pull the head/manifold out together as one assembly. It's tight, but it'll fit.

If you aren't superman you'll probably be ready to pop a vein trying to pick it all up, but it's doable (did it myself a few nights ago on an E60). It's heavy though, no doubt about that.
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  #164  
Old 11-29-2013, 08:06 PM
tremartin06 tremartin06 is offline
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Location: Atlanta,, Ga
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 28
Mein Auto: 04 745Li
Alternator Housing Gasket, Alternator, Vacuum Pump Seal, Oil Pressure Switch

I am in the middle of replacing all of the above items while I have everything open. I have removed most of the clearance items and plan to tackle the E12 bolts tomorrow and finally pull out the Alternator Bracket. Hopefully USPS has no delays and will deliver my gasket tomorrow as scheduled. My question is: Does anyone know torque specs for the various alternator bracket bolts and engine mount bolts? Thanks in advance for you assistance!!
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  #166  
Old 11-30-2013, 06:37 AM
tremartin06 tremartin06 is offline
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Location: Atlanta,, Ga
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 28
Mein Auto: 04 745Li
Quote:
Originally Posted by schpenxel View Post
Thanks for the response!
I checked that site prior to posting. Maybe I don't understand how to read the torque page. It lists various bolt sizes/variations (M8, M10, M12, etc) along with colors (yellow or silver). However, the sizes that I'm looking for are not listed. For example, my ENGINE SUPPORT BRACKET uses the following fasteners:

M10X40-Z1-10.9
M10X60-Z1-ZNS3

and ALTERNATOR MOUNTING BRACKET

M8X30-ZNNIV SI
M10X35-U1
M8X80

Using the Workshop Manuals, how should I interpret the number after the 'X' or is it even relevant for torque??

Thanks in advance for your assistance....off to the dealer to pick up the solenoid O-rings. Hopefully I'll have good news once I return.....and get off those last 2 pesky (PIA) bolts on the rear of the engine support.

Also, taking Keif's advice and picking up an engine support. The engine hoist legs are just in my way under the vehicle!!!
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  #167  
Old 11-30-2013, 06:57 AM
schpenxel schpenxel is offline
DIY'er
Location: Greensboro, NC
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 3,274
Mein Auto: 2004 545i
Quote:
Originally Posted by tremartin06 View Post
Thanks for the response!
I checked that site prior to posting. Maybe I don't understand how to read the torque page. It lists various bolt sizes/variations (M8, M10, M12, etc) along with colors (yellow or silver). However, the sizes that I'm looking for are not listed. For example, my ENGINE SUPPORT BRACKET uses the following fasteners:

M10X40-Z1-10.9
M10X60-Z1-ZNS3

and ALTERNATOR MOUNTING BRACKET

M8X30-ZNNIV SI
M10X35-U1
M8X80

Using the Workshop Manuals, how should I interpret the number after the 'X' or is it even relevant for torque??

Thanks in advance for your assistance....off to the dealer to pick up the solenoid O-rings. Hopefully I'll have good news once I return.....and get off those last 2 pesky (PIA) bolts on the rear of the engine support.

Also, taking Keif's advice and picking up an engine support. The engine hoist legs are just in my way under the vehicle!!!
The number after the X is just the bolt length in mm.. so M10x35 is an M10 bolt, 35mm long

So, yeah, basically it doesn't matter when looking up torques
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  #168  
Old 11-30-2013, 07:16 AM
fratan fratan is offline
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Location: MA
 
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Posts: 201
Mein Auto: 2006 750i
FYI,
Make sure your replace the alternator bracket seal under the bracket. There are 2 different types so buy both and return the one you don't use. This is a common oil leak failure and since your there this will save you time and money. I learned the hard way by not replacing the seal when we had to replace the alternator. Six months later, major oil leak.
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  #169  
Old 11-30-2013, 07:47 AM
schpenxel schpenxel is offline
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Location: Greensboro, NC
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 3,274
Mein Auto: 2004 545i
Quote:
Originally Posted by fratan View Post
FYI,
Make sure your replace the alternator bracket seal under the bracket. There are 2 different types so buy both and return the one you don't use. This is a common oil leak failure and since your there this will save you time and money. I learned the hard way by not replacing the seal when we had to replace the alternator. Six months later, major oil leak.
Indeed--you do NOT want to have to do that job again.

I seriously thought about JB Welding the hole up on mine while I have the engine out

Also have thought about adding an oil cooler, not sure yet
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  #170  
Old 11-30-2013, 10:19 AM
tremartin06 tremartin06 is offline
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Location: Atlanta,, Ga
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 28
Mein Auto: 04 745Li
Quote:
Originally Posted by fratan View Post
FYI,
Make sure your replace the alternator bracket seal under the bracket. There are 2 different types so buy both and return the one you don't use. This is a common oil leak failure and since your there this will save you time and money. I learned the hard way by not replacing the seal when we had to replace the alternator. Six months later, major oil leak.

Thanks FRATAN!
That $2.58 part is the main reason I'm doing all of this work. Just figured I would tackle as much as I could while everything was open.
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Atlanta, Ga
2004 745Li
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  #171  
Old 11-30-2013, 10:22 AM
tremartin06 tremartin06 is offline
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Location: Atlanta,, Ga
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 28
Mein Auto: 04 745Li
Quote:
Originally Posted by schpenxel View Post
The number after the X is just the bolt length in mm.. so M10x35 is an M10 bolt, 35mm long

So, yeah, basically it doesn't matter when looking up torques
Thanks SCHPENXEL!
I sorta figured it out. Apparently the length does matter (no pun intended) as different lengths has different torgues. I'm going thru all of this in HOPES I'm able to torque the back 2 bolts once I start putting things back together. Now, IF I COULD ONLY GET THOSE TWO OUT!!!! Time to get back at it. Thanks all!!
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2004 745Li
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  #172  
Old 11-30-2013, 04:37 PM
schpenxel schpenxel is offline
DIY'er
Location: Greensboro, NC
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 3,274
Mein Auto: 2004 545i
Quote:
Originally Posted by tremartin06 View Post
Thanks SCHPENXEL!
I sorta figured it out. Apparently the length does matter (no pun intended) as different lengths has different torgues.
Keep in mind that on some of the specs they'll have something like "M18 x 1.5". The 1.5 is a thread pitch so would probably have a different torque spec than say a 1.25 (threads per inch)

I think that's the difference you'll find in the torque specs
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  #173  
Old 12-01-2013, 04:52 PM
tremartin06 tremartin06 is offline
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Location: Atlanta,, Ga
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 28
Mein Auto: 04 745Li
What a weekend!!!
Alternator Bracket Seal Replacement - CHECK
Vacuum Pump Seals Replacement - CHECK
Solenoid Seals - CHECK
Oil Pressure Switch Replacement - CHECK
Alternator Replacement - OOPS....purchased wrong alternator. LOL

Took me 3 days off and on, but ooooooo what a feeling!!! What's next, valve stem seal replacement or crossover pipe???? What the heck, why not both!!! I'm a glutton for punishment.
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2004 745Li
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  #174  
Old 12-01-2013, 06:05 PM
schpenxel schpenxel is offline
DIY'er
Location: Greensboro, NC
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 3,274
Mein Auto: 2004 545i
Crossover pipe isn't bad if you're using the AGA or similar kit.. Basically just pull the intake and valley pan. The intake is a beast to lift on your own but I managed to do it. I did mine with water pump still on, but would probably be easier with it removed

Valve seals I haven't done with heads on (had machine shop swap them) so can't help there. Check my thread on the coolant crossover, tons of pictures, albeit for a 5 series

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=684294
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  #175  
Old 12-01-2013, 06:48 PM
fratan fratan is offline
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Location: MA
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 201
Mein Auto: 2006 750i
How to replace your coolant pipe, valve covers, timing gaskets and more

Great job doing the oil leak stuff. My son, the master mechanic , was talking about doing the valve stem seals and pulling the heads at the same time to bore out the carbon build up on a 2004 745 I. It would be nice but Not necessary since we just got it inspected today and passed the smokes. Nice to have a small ready monitor tool to know when the car is ready. We were getting a catalytic converter code but poured some cat cleaner in the oil and it seemed to work. Nice having inpa to clear the codes and a ready monitor tool. I think it was twenty bucks.


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