Welcome to Bimmerfest -- The #1 Online Community for BMW related information! Please enjoy the discussion forums below and share your experiences with the 200,000 current, new and past BMW owners. The forums are broken out by car model and into other special interest sections such as BMW European Delivery and a special forum to voice your questions to the many BMW dealers on the site to assist our members!

Please follow the links below to help get you started!

Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > Z Series > E36/7 Z3 (1996-2002)

E36/7 Z3 (1996-2002)
E36/7 Z3 Roadster, Z3 coupe, Z3 M Roadster and Z3 M Coupe talk with our gurus here.

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 04-28-2013, 08:02 PM
Jortiz96 Jortiz96 is offline
Registered User
Location: Wilmington, NC
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 76
Mein Auto: 1996 BMW Z3
Audio Upgrade for Z3

Recently i have come to the conclusion that it was time to upgrade/replace the stock stereo system in my 96 z. Main reason for wanting to replace the stock system is simply because the stock system kind of sucks ( does not really have any bass and when you get load enough it gets really distorted)

I have been looking into the BSW Stage I Audio Upgrade for BMW Z3 / MZ3 Roadster 96-02
link : http://www.bavariansoundwerks.com/pr...Z3-M-Roadster/
and i have run into some questions

1. Has anybody else done this install (if so, how does it sound)
2. I was reading that some people have replaced the stock AMP, will i need to replace the stock AMP if i decide to go with this upgrade?
3. Is there anything else i should look into replacing if i do get this system?
4.i was also looking into getting rear speakers, are they worth the purchase or should i just leave it be? and in a 96 will there be wires behind the seats or will there have to be some work done?

Any help will be greatly appreciated guys.
Reply With Quote
Ads by Google
  #2  
Old 04-29-2013, 05:05 AM
coopers coopers is offline
Registered User
Location: Massachusetts
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 49
Mein Auto: 2001 Z3 2.5i
Z3 Stereo

That system doesn't address the subwoofer or an amp. I don't think that you will see much if any difference just by replacing the existing speakers. I tried that. I found Baden's Car pages a great help in giving me the confidence to replace my system.

http://www.badenscarpages.ca/m-roadster-stereo-upgrade/
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 04-29-2013, 08:09 AM
Blacklane Blacklane is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Springfield, Ohio, USA
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,055
Mein Auto: 1998 Z3 Roadster
You can use BSW; many people have. However, there is nothing out-of-the-ordinary about the BMW Harmon-Kardin sound system, other than the amazingly poor quality. You can use any supplier such as Crutchfield or a good local stereo shop. (There are many poor stereo shops; get a recommendation.)

If you do a search here, you will find many recommendations for stereo systems, some of them very recent.

I would replace the amplifier and speakers first. The HK amp is poor quality (10% total harmonic distortion as opposed to less than 1% for typical aftermarket), and low power (25watts x 6 channels plus 40 watts x 2 subwoofer channels). Any new amp will be superior to this. You need about 80 watts x 2 channels plus a 150 watt subwoofer channel. You don't need the 8 channels of the HK system; you need three: left, right, subwoofer. More power is better but it should not exceed the power handling of the speakers you choose.

The speakers are quite poor and matched to the amp at something like 3 ohms. That's not standard. An aftermarket amp and speakers will be a standard 4 ohms. The speaker sizes are somewhat standard. If you buy a set of 5.25" component speakers for the front, they will come with the kick panel speakers plus tweeters for the doors. Good speakers can sound amazing, even in a roadster.

The BMW head unit is not bad, but outdated for features that you may want now. Again, it's a standard DIN size and there are hundreds of choices that fit. I personally like an Ipod interface and display. Additionally, modern head units have pre-amp outputs for left, right, and subwoofer to wire straight to the amplifier.

The subwoofer is the hard part and someone has recently posted that BSW has been promising his for 6 weeks. It must be hard for them too. If you don't want to get in too deep, you should probably plan to replace the speaker(s) in your existing sub box. Earlier cars have two 5.25" speakers, later ones have a single 6.5" speaker. Many people fabricate subwoofer boxes which really opens some options. I have also seen systems that use the kick panel speakers as the subwoofers.

The BMW speaker wires are fine. That's the only good part of the sound system. You can mount the amp in the trunk and re-use the speaker wires.

Last edited by Blacklane; 04-29-2013 at 08:13 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 04-29-2013, 04:01 PM
Jortiz96 Jortiz96 is offline
Registered User
Location: Wilmington, NC
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 76
Mein Auto: 1996 BMW Z3
so do you guys think it would be ok to just go with the bavariansoundwerks speakers and then just buy an amp. I have decided not to even mess with adding speakers behind the seats because alot of people have written that they don't really do anything. As of now, i am still trying to find a good thread on adding a sub woofer because mine being a 96 does not have one. I wan't to install mine like the newer z3's had them between the seats. Do you guys know of any companies that might sell everything as a single package and then i can put it in or get it professionally installed.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 04-29-2013, 04:48 PM
Blacklane Blacklane is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Springfield, Ohio, USA
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,055
Mein Auto: 1998 Z3 Roadster
I made one out of fiberglass:
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=605626
but I understand that's not for everyone.

Actually any decent carpenter or cabinet maker could fabricate a good box out of Medium Density Fiberboard (MDF) quite easily. Just but a Kicker CompVT65 speaker and have the box fabricated to fit.
You can also easily find the older dual 5.25" speaker boxes on ebay, craigslist, and elsewhere. You can occasionally even find the single 6.5" box. Either one should fit, however I don't think your car has the speaker grill between the seats.

I really think the best choice for you would be really good pair of component speakers for the kick panels and doors and a good 2-channel amp. It won't have enough bass to rattle windows, but it will be much better than what you have, and will be fairly simple to install.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 04-29-2013, 07:05 PM
Jortiz96 Jortiz96 is offline
Registered User
Location: Wilmington, NC
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 76
Mein Auto: 1996 BMW Z3
that's the thing, i dont want my car to shake the earth but i would like to be able to enjoy bass heavy music without it getting distorted. As far as the speakers and amp, is there anything that you would recommend?
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 04-29-2013, 08:47 PM
Blacklane Blacklane is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Springfield, Ohio, USA
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,055
Mein Auto: 1998 Z3 Roadster
There are many 5.25" component speaker systems out there that are excellent. Plan to spend several hundred dollars on a set for good ones. The kick panel mounting depth is no more than 72.8 mm (2.87"), but nearly all speakers fit that. You will probably have to remove the plastic ring inside the kick panel, if the speaker has a large ring. I used an air grinder for that.
I used MB Quart 6.5" Q216 speakers in the kick panels and doors, which require some serious metal cutting to install. I understand that's not for everyone. MB Quart makes some 5.25 speakers in their Onyx line, but I have no experience with them. MB Quart seems to make great sounding speakers that are at the lower end of the power range.
Crutchfield seems to recommend Polk DB 5251 which seem very nice.
There are many other choices from other suppliers such as Amazon and Sonic Electronics.
Component speakers have tweeters that mount in the doors. For that, you have to remove the inner door panel and glue the tweeters in place with silicone glue. Removing the door panels is not hard, but you need to read up on how to do it, or it will be hard.
Choose an amplifier based on the RMS power of your speakers and their impedance, which will likely be 4 ohms. Modern Class E amplifiers are much smaller than older Class C and D, plus they are more efficient and produce less heat. (An amplifier class refers to how much of the input signal they reproduce per cycle; class A the entire cycle, Class B half of it, class C the top quarter, etc. The speakers then smooth the signal out as they push the air.)
Then choose a head unit based on the features you want. The new head unit will likely have RCA pre-amp plugs on the back that connect to the amplifier. You will need 2 or 3 channel RCA cables between the head unit and amp, 3 or 4 meters long depending on where you mount the amp.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Right Footwell Cover.jpg
Views:	121
Size:	95.3 KB
ID:	373935   Click image for larger version

Name:	Footwell New & Old 2.jpg
Views:	115
Size:	205.6 KB
ID:	373942  
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 04-30-2013, 06:33 PM
Jortiz96 Jortiz96 is offline
Registered User
Location: Wilmington, NC
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 76
Mein Auto: 1996 BMW Z3
ok and as far as a budget, i don't plan on going too much over 1,000. Also, my car does not have any speakers in the doors, just the kickpanel ones and the tweeters.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 05-01-2013, 04:24 AM
Blacklane Blacklane is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Springfield, Ohio, USA
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,055
Mein Auto: 1998 Z3 Roadster
You don't have speakers in the door? I've never heard of that. They look like this. If you buy a set of component speakers, the 5.25" speakers go in the kick panel and the tweeter goes in this place, where Harmon Kardin calls a mid-range and a tweeter. Modern tweeters can do the job with a single tweeter. Just choose the hole that fits the new tweeter. One picture shows my new tweeter mounted in the larger hole. My smaller tweeter had fallen apart completely and most of it was dangling inside the door.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	door tweeter.jpg
Views:	182
Size:	78.3 KB
ID:	374098   Click image for larger version

Name:	Door Tweeter Back.jpg
Views:	425
Size:	88.5 KB
ID:	374099  

Last edited by Blacklane; 05-01-2013 at 06:24 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 05-01-2013, 12:11 PM
Jortiz96 Jortiz96 is offline
Registered User
Location: Wilmington, NC
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 76
Mein Auto: 1996 BMW Z3
Audio Upgrade for Z3

Oh ok, yes I have one of those. I thought you were referring to another speaker on the door itself


Sent from BimmerApp mobile app
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 05-01-2013, 07:05 PM
Jortiz96 Jortiz96 is offline
Registered User
Location: Wilmington, NC
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 76
Mein Auto: 1996 BMW Z3
quick question about the amp, would it be ok to go with a 2 channel or should i go ahead and go with a 4 channel?
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 05-01-2013, 08:28 PM
Blacklane Blacklane is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Springfield, Ohio, USA
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,055
Mein Auto: 1998 Z3 Roadster
If you don't intend to install a subwoofer, I think you could easily use two channels. A two-channel amp should be fairly inexpensive and compact. I'm thinking of something like the Arc Audio KS125.2BX2 Mini amp with 2 70-watt channels in a 5"x8" package. There are other similar amps available.
Note that most, but not all, 4-channel amps are bridgeable, so you can connect it as a two-channel amp with each channel output power being the sum of the two channels. So a 40 watt x 4 channel bridgeable amp can be connected as 80 watts x 2 channels. You don't have to worry about the impedance.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 05-01-2013, 09:00 PM
Jortiz96 Jortiz96 is offline
Registered User
Location: Wilmington, NC
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 76
Mein Auto: 1996 BMW Z3
yeah i don't really have any plans to put a woofer in so i think a 2 channel will be the best way to go for me. As far as speakers i have come across the polk speakers and they don't seem to bad http://www.crutchfield.com/p_107DB52...io-db5251.html
Will the Arc Audio KS125.2BX2 work with these?
I have also read that people were replacing their head units, does it really matter what type of head unit you have?
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 05-02-2013, 08:18 AM
Blacklane Blacklane is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Springfield, Ohio, USA
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,055
Mein Auto: 1998 Z3 Roadster
I believe those speakers will fit fine. Usually Crutchfield will tell you that.
My experience with Polk speakers is that they sound brighter than some others, but they are certainly clearer and crisper than the stock ones.
Since these speakers are rated at 100w RMS, you could find a 100-watt per channel amplifier. There is nothing wrong with an 80-watt amp, though.
For the head unit, many people like to keep the stock look and feel of the existing head unit, others want the features of modern head units. I'm in the later camp and I love my ipod interface, click-wheel control, and ipod folder display. Modern head units have RCA pre-amp output plugs in the back that connect directly to the amp using RCA cables.
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 05-03-2013, 09:04 PM
Jortiz96 Jortiz96 is offline
Registered User
Location: Wilmington, NC
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 76
Mein Auto: 1996 BMW Z3
i think i have once again changed my mid on what i what i want to go with; instead of going with the pol system i have been looking at the powerbass speakers:
Tweeters: http://www.powerbassusa.com/2xl-1t-titanium-tweeter
Kickpanels: http://www.powerbassusa.com/s-5c-525-components
Amp: http://www.powerbassusa.com/asa-2002x-2-ch-amplifier
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 05-04-2013, 08:38 AM
Blacklane Blacklane is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Springfield, Ohio, USA
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,055
Mein Auto: 1998 Z3 Roadster
That looks like it could be a good set-up. Note that the component speakers come with tweeters, so you don't need separate tweeters unless you plan to replace the ones in the component system. In fact, unless you add a three-way cross-over, there is no way to connect the extra tweeters. I think you will be happy with the 5.25" component speakers and the amplifier.
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 05-04-2013, 09:59 AM
Jortiz96 Jortiz96 is offline
Registered User
Location: Wilmington, NC
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 76
Mein Auto: 1996 BMW Z3
Well what i planned to do was buy the titanium tweeters and then keep the silk ones for backups or maybe sell them. The reason being is that i have been reading about how titanium tweeters can give a really high quality sound compared to a silk tweeter.
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 10-05-2013, 12:11 AM
Bluebmwz Bluebmwz is offline
Registered User
Location: Staten Island NY.
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 3
Mein Auto: Bmw z3 2.8
I have to thanks to everyone who posted here before, without your post I wouldn't be able to upgrade my sound system...
Here is a list of what I've upgraded on to my 1998 z3 2.8
1 Head unit. Pioneer 80prs. Paid $275.00 at my local audio store. Really nice unit top of the line from Pioneer. Now pairing with galaxy s3 to stream Pandora. I don't know if I will be able to control siri using the head unit button when I soon switch to iPhone 5s in the near future.
2 upgraded the front speakers with Mb quarts onyx 5.25 components.. Paid $65.00 on eBay Replaced the speakers and the tweeters on the door panel. I will look for half inch set of tweeters for the door panels... Didn't know the door panels had 2 tweeters on each side. One been 1inch and the other half the size... So I will look for a half inch and hope it fits... The sound from the quarts speaker are really nice... I'm able to crank the volume to 50 which is the max and still able to listen clearly with top down... If I had money to spend I probably had bought the CDT brand..
3 I was lookin into upgrading the Subwoofer connecting it in the stock box with a kicker 6.5 sub.. But jerry at the audio shop hooked me up into buying one of his 10 inches sub amplified.. Rockford p300-10 at first I was skeptical and the price was 300 bucks. Without checking it online he convinced me.. He recommended the the sub because according to his knowledge I will be keeping the stock amp to power the speakers... And the rockford has is own amp... Let me tell you great choice I did... When he disconnected the stock sub I discovered the inside were to 5 Inch speakers not a single sub which originally thought was 6.5.. I'm glad I left it untouched because I will eventually add a set of 5 inch CDT so speakers.. And will also replace in near future the back speakers as well...

Overall I replaced the head unit, the front speakers and added a sub in the trunk ( I still have room left in the trunk.. Also if I need more room I can always unplug the sub which is very easy to do.)
Overall, I'm extremely happy with the results so far.. The music is much louder and clear... My total price with labor included was $770. 00.
In the near future I will add led lights to the side grills.. Will cozy me $100. 00 with installation... Thank s
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 10-05-2013, 05:43 AM
Blacklane Blacklane is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Springfield, Ohio, USA
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,055
Mein Auto: 1998 Z3 Roadster
Sounds like a nice set-up. You will not need the small door tweeters. Modern component speakers (such as your MB Quarts) cover the same frequency range and you won't miss it. With a good set of components in the front, you won't miss those small behind-the-seat speakers either, and there isn't much depth there to add something better. You don't mention an amplifier. The original HK amp is rated at a terrible 10% total harmonic distortion; modern ones are more like 0.1%. I think that is where you should go next, although if you enjoy the sound of a 10-inch powered subwoofer in the trunk, maybe you're not looking for subtleties in your music.

Last edited by Blacklane; 10-05-2013 at 07:26 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 10-06-2013, 12:46 AM
Bluebmwz Bluebmwz is offline
Registered User
Location: Staten Island NY.
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 3
Mein Auto: Bmw z3 2.8
Thanks for your replied.

Now that you recommended to upgrade the original amp I will do it in the comming months...also I was thinking to add a pair of 4 '' tweeters instead of rear speakers ...I have a quick questio. After hooking up the amplied sub, now my alarm won't engage as it somethin was left open.my reasoning thinking is probably a blown fuse....I hope so...any advice or problems you've encounter after you installed your system?.btw. I will bring the car back to the audio shop to have it look ..have a nice day...the only down side I have after I installed the HU.. it's that pioneer 80prs does not have hd radio...
Reply With Quote
  #21  
Old 10-12-2013, 08:48 PM
david14 david14 is offline
david
Location: sault ste marie ontario
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 1
Mein Auto: 328 is
THIS IS DIRECTED TO BLACKLANE

hello i am new to this and i came acroos this thread as looking for inforamtion on my 2001 z2 3.0 roadster, i am going ti be adding in a amplified powred subwoofer so i do not lose space in my trunk, i am not looking for window rattling in my z3 as i would in my 328is but with that i want to make sure it is straight foawrd as in hooking up to stock head unit where existing amp for sub is located and also i want to upgrade the amp for the speakers for now and obne day upgradee the speakers but i just want a better sound quality and to my knowledge upgrading the speakers amp will do that so what i am asking is what kind of amp do i need to power the speaker a 2 or 4 channel? and is there an adapter to connect into the wiring harness for the stock one? also if i didnt choose a amp powered sub and got them on there own would i just need a mono amp for that or a 2 channel i dont understand much about sound systems but am a great DIYer and can figure out how to do pretty much anything. also if there is anything else you could add to ease what i need to do that would be very helpful

thanks dave
Reply With Quote
  #22  
Old 10-13-2013, 06:25 AM
pelerojo pelerojo is offline
Registered User
Location: charlotte nc
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 93
Mein Auto: Z4MR
I have been following this thread with great interest as I would like to do the same for my 2001. I like the minimal approach of changing the kick panel speakers and the amp. Here is my question: If I only change the amp and kick panel speakers do I need to stay with 3 ohm gear? Does it all have to match? Ideally I would start with these components and then in a year swap out the speakers in the bass. Thanks.
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old 10-13-2013, 08:43 AM
WB-MZ WB-MZ is offline
Registered User
Location: Northern CA
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 46
Mein Auto: M Roadster
Do you guys know that there is a group buy going on right now for an Integralaudio 8" sub system on another bimmer fourm? Here is a link to what the sub is like.
http://www.integralaudio.com/index.p...model-80s.html
That link shows it discontinued but the group buy is for newer design that is even easier to install. I have the original set up and love it. I replaced a BMW SunFire sub with this setup and it is a huge improvement.
Don't just replace the kick panel speakers, get a good set of component speaker (kick panel and upper door speakers. I used some 6 3/4" Infinity Reference components that fit with minimale trimming. With a set of components speakers, the Integralaudio 8" sub and a good small class D 4 channel amp (check out Crutchfield.com). Use 2 channels to drive the front components and bridge 2 channels to drive the sub and you will have a very good system. You could keep the stock head unit or up grade it to a new one for better features. Mount the amp in place of the stock main amp and mount the crossovers in place of the sub amp (on newer cars with a second sub amp on drivers side of trunk) and you will not lose any trunk space, you won't even see it.
Good Luck with your project,
Wayne
Reply With Quote
  #24  
Old 10-13-2013, 09:07 AM
Blacklane Blacklane is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Springfield, Ohio, USA
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,055
Mein Auto: 1998 Z3 Roadster
Quote:
Originally Posted by pelerojo View Post
I have been following this thread with great interest as I would like to do the same for my 2001. I like the minimal approach of changing the kick panel speakers and the amp. Here is my question: If I only change the amp and kick panel speakers do I need to stay with 3 ohm gear? Does it all have to match? Ideally I would start with these components and then in a year swap out the speakers in the bass. Thanks.
If you're replacing both the amp and the speakers, get them to match. If the amp is designed for a 4-ohm load, it achieves its highest efficiency with a 4-ohm load. If the load is above 4-ohms, there is less current moving the magnet. If the load is below 4 ohms, there is too much current which heats up the amplifier final drive and leads to failure.

For your purpose, install 4-ohm speakers (they'll do no harm), then install a good 4-ohm amp, which is pretty much all of them.
Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old 10-13-2013, 09:23 AM
Blacklane Blacklane is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Springfield, Ohio, USA
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,055
Mein Auto: 1998 Z3 Roadster
Quote:
Originally Posted by david14 View Post
THIS IS DIRECTED TO BLACKLANE

hello i am new to this and i came acroos this thread as looking for inforamtion on my 2001 z2 3.0 roadster, i am going ti be adding in a amplified powred subwoofer so i do not lose space in my trunk, i am not looking for window rattling in my z3 as i would in my 328is but with that i want to make sure it is straight foawrd as in hooking up to stock head unit where existing amp for sub is located and also i want to upgrade the amp for the speakers for now and obne day upgradee the speakers but i just want a better sound quality and to my knowledge upgrading the speakers amp will do that so what i am asking is what kind of amp do i need to power the speaker a 2 or 4 channel? and is there an adapter to connect into the wiring harness for the stock one? also if i didnt choose a amp powered sub and got them on there own would i just need a mono amp for that or a 2 channel i dont understand much about sound systems but am a great DIYer and can figure out how to do pretty much anything. also if there is anything else you could add to ease what i need to do that would be very helpful

thanks dave
If you're new to the forum, I suggest you use the button near the top, on the right, labeled "Search This Forum." Most of your questions have been answered in the past.

I don't know of any powered subwoofer that will fit in a roadster subwoofer space, and very few non-powered subwoofers will.

I really recommend a 2-channel amp rated around 80W per channel plus a third subwoofer channel rated at about 220-250 W. I had a 4-channel amp (plus sub channel) and found that the speakers behind the seats do very little for the soundstage. It's not worth the cost and complexity to use them.

You need component speakers for the front, and the replacements will have their own external cross-overs. I mounted these where the original amp was and mounted the new amp on the front wall of the trunk. You will need 5 1/4" speakers for the kick panels (unless you want to cut a big enough hole for 6 1/2" ones - there is enough depth). The components will come with tweeters which you will glue into one of the holes where the original tweeters were.

For the head unit, there are wiring harness adapters readily available, as well as the antenna adapter for the German-style antenna cable. Modern head units also have RCA plugs in the back for connecting to an amplifier. You can buy 3-channel RCA cables 4-meters long to connect the head unit to the amplifier in the trunk. Make sure this cable goes through the trunk grommet on the driver's side, opposite the battery, since the battery cables go through the passenger side and will induce alternator noise in the system.

Last edited by Blacklane; 10-13-2013 at 06:26 PM.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Tags
1.9l engine, bsw, stereo, z3


Forum Navigation
Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > Z Series > E36/7 Z3 (1996-2002)
Today's Posts Search
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On



Forum Jump


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 01:14 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
© 2001-2011 performanceIX, Inc. All Rights Reserved .: guidelines .:. privacy .:. terms