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E46 (1999 - 2006)
The fourth generation 3 Series (E46 chassis) was introduced in 1999 and set the standard for engineering and performance during it's years of production including being named to Car & Driver's 10 best list every one of those years! ! -- View the E46 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 05-04-2013, 03:49 AM
r0gue r0gue is offline
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Tire shop stripped one of my wheel studs. - Help!

I need some help. Two issues (unrelated). Rear wheel strippage, and front wheels seem unbalanceable. Bonus Issues included for your entertainment only.

Issue 1.
Obviously I'll replace the stud. Do you think I can tap the hub back out? or will I need to replace the hub? It's a 5 bolt patter BMW 325i. I was able to get it out (obviously), and even back in as I needed to drive the car. It went back in tightly of course. I think I'll be able to get it back out, and thought perhaps I could just get a finishing tap (somebody suggested that variety). Think I can clean it up with a tap? Someone tole me the hubs are hard and the studs are soft and thus the damage is probably all to the stud...?



Bonus issue - now resolved
and THIS is a different wheel. NOT stripped, just way bugger-over-torqued. I had a front end alignment done and as it still feels out of balance, I decided to pop the front wheels off to see if they lost the centering rings. They didn't..



Issue 2. - No Photo:
These friggen wheels wont balance. They were to come from Tire Rack pre-balanced. They had some hop (steering wheel shake). Took em in to be balanced at a local place. The problem was still there. Took em back. They monkeyed with them again. Problem is worse. Checked to see if the centering rings were lost (they were not). I dunno. I hate them and want to return them, but I'm sure that's a pipe dream. Tire Rack wants me to shuffle them around and look for one that may be out of round. Sounds like fun. Jack, swap, bolt, jack swap bolt. Sigh...

Post today and I'll even throw in another BONUS issue - NOT resolved

Junk ass Tire Rack wheel center cap stick-on logo flung off of rear wheel. I actually HAVE called Tire Rack about that. They said they are back ordered. They'll send me a set in a few weeks. Sigh...


Last edited by r0gue; 05-04-2013 at 05:22 AM.
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  #2  
Old 05-04-2013, 03:59 AM
kmorgan_260 kmorgan_260 is offline
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I had similar problems with several tire stores over torqueing my wheels. Suggest finding another place or insist that they use a manual torque wrench and not the air wrench.
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  #3  
Old 05-04-2013, 06:54 AM
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I always take off my silver valve caps as I didn't get one back one time, and retorque my wheels once I get home just to make sure it's torqued right. I give them the torque value and that seems to keep them from way over tightening, but the values always seem to be all over the place lug to lug until I true them.
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  #4  
Old 05-04-2013, 07:05 AM
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bmw330ci04 bmw330ci04 is offline
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we too have recently had a bit of an issue with Tire Rack selling us there terrible house brand wheels.. After one season on the 335, one is cracked and dented inwards, and another one is dented inwards in two different places, and they will not do anything about it, and they said it was our fault, when we told them our 9 year old BMW rims had been through pretty much everything and back and that theyre still in good shape, they didnt seem to care..

I would try writing a letter to corporate HQ explaining your situation and disgust with the lack of help.
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  #5  
Old 05-04-2013, 08:57 AM
r0gue r0gue is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmw330ci04 View Post
we too have recently had a bit of an issue with Tire Rack selling us there terrible house brand wheels.. After one season on the 335, one is cracked and dented inwards, and another one is dented inwards in two different places, and they will not do anything about it, and they said it was our fault, when we told them our 9 year old BMW rims had been through pretty much everything and back and that theyre still in good shape, they didnt seem to care..

I would try writing a letter to corporate HQ explaining your situation and disgust with the lack of help.
I've spent my last dollar with Tire Rack. Two sets of wheels and at least a half dozen sets of tires. It's just not worth it when you have even just one problem and they leave it all in your bag to attend to it. IMO the should have sent a call tag and took em back. "Save the relationship" is the good call of the day to garner a good customer for life and avoid bad press online. They missed the boat.

Probably 200 miles on them and I'm stuck with them for good. Their rep was kind to me and is trying tohelp within the bounds of their normal policies. I just don't think this should be my problem to troubleshoot out and now I won't have a road force balance either.

Last edited by r0gue; 05-04-2013 at 08:59 AM.
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  #6  
Old 05-04-2013, 03:58 PM
r0gue r0gue is offline
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Anyone know what size tap I need?
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  #7  
Old 05-04-2013, 05:14 PM
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cwsqbm cwsqbm is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r0gue View Post
Anyone know what size tap I need?
The bolts are 12x1.5 (12mm diameter, 1.5mm pitch).
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Old 05-04-2013, 05:15 PM
r0gue r0gue is offline
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Originally Posted by cwsqbm View Post
The bolts are 12x1.5 (12mm diameter, 1.5mm pitch).
Thank you! Much appreciated!
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  #9  
Old 05-04-2013, 07:19 PM
rav31 rav31 is offline
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You will need a new bearing hub to correct this correctly. What it appears to me is that the threads in the "Bearing Hub" where stripped out & not the threads on the lug bolt. You can not re-tap the HUB as you will need to go over size then the lug bolt wont work. The other option is putting in a Heli-coil but that's difficult to do with the hub on the car.

I hope that I have seen it wrong.
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  #10  
Old 05-04-2013, 07:55 PM
GoForthFast GoForthFast is offline
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I hope that I have seen it wrong.
I think you see pretty clearly
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  #11  
Old 05-05-2013, 04:14 AM
r0gue r0gue is offline
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They quoted me $600 for a new hub at the dealership
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  #12  
Old 05-05-2013, 07:41 AM
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ahull ahull is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r0gue View Post
They quoted me $600 for a new hub at the dealership
Ooofff! I'm sure you can get a better price at an indy, not to mention it is DIY-able - may have to buy some tools but shouldn't be much.
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DIY MODS: AA Stage I supercharger, Meyle HD FCAs w Powerflex CABs, Bilstein shocks, Meyle HD Rtabs, Angel Eyes, Clear Corners/Markers w/ LEDs, LED tails, ZHP rims, Akebono pads, AUX input
DIY E46 Merit Badges: Sunroof resurrection, CCV, OFHG, VCG w/ VANOS seals, DISA, Cooling Refresh I, steering giubo, window regs, Magnetic Infandibulator (see wiki)
DIY On deck: Rear Diff bushing. UUC SSK, clutch job eventually, Wavetrac LSD
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  #13  
Old 05-05-2013, 07:51 AM
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jvr826 jvr826 is offline
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You can DIY a new hub for sure. Dealer prices on parts and labor are insane. If you will replace it, do both fronts and you'll be good for a long time.

Another suggestion, if re-tapping doesn't work... heli-coil.
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  #14  
Old 05-05-2013, 09:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jvr826 View Post

Another suggestion, if re-tapping doesn't work... heli-coil.
Time-sert would be a better choice for this application....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=RvmL0pEphQI
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  #15  
Old 05-05-2013, 11:17 AM
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jvr826 jvr826 is offline
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Nice!! Never heard of them before.
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  #16  
Old 05-05-2013, 11:34 AM
Pilgrim Pilgrim is offline
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And why isn't the tire shop dealing with all this, instead of the OP? If they caused it, they should make it right.
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  #17  
Old 05-05-2013, 12:19 PM
evanwest94 evanwest94 is online now
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Tell the tire shop to deal with this!! Im 90% positive that they didn't thread that lugbolt by hand before they gunned it on. With euro cars they go on very easily without hand tightining but sometimes it doesn't work too well. I work at a tire shop and I've seen it happen first hand. Tell them to deal with it! It's not a good look for the shops image if you make a yelp about it too. By no means should you have to handle this on your own.

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