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E46 (1999 - 2006)
The fourth generation 3 Series (E46 chassis) was introduced in 1999 and set the standard for engineering and performance during it's years of production including being named to Car & Driver's 10 best list every one of those years! ! -- View the E46 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 05-14-2013, 07:26 AM
hoodlum hoodlum is offline
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ABS, DSC, BRAKE lights on & Speedometer not working. Help!

My fuel pump went out so I towed my car home. After installing the new pump, the ABS, DSC, and BRAKE lights are on. Also the Speedometer does not work.
I read a post where someone had the similar problem after towing. When taken to the shop, he was asked if he had messed with the fuses any? Answer no.
I did both, Towed and messed with the fuses.
Does anyone have any ideas as to what could have caused this? Fuses or towing? And what is the problem?
Thanks
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  #2  
Old 05-14-2013, 07:59 AM
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hexy27 hexy27 is offline
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Most common cause of these symptoms is a bad wheel speed sensor and I believe a dead speedo usually points to the left rear wheel's sensor. There is no relation to having just changed the fuel pump......simply a coincidence.
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Old 05-14-2013, 08:03 AM
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Originally Posted by hexy27 View Post
Most common cause of these symptoms is a bad wheel speed sensor and I believe a dead speedo usually points to the left rear wheel's sensor. There is no relation to having just changed the fuel pump......simply a coincidence.
Agree. There's a write up in the wiki on this too: http://www.bimmerfest.com/wiki/index...illuminated.3F

The sensors are pretty easy to change out.
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Old 05-14-2013, 08:06 AM
hoodlum hoodlum is offline
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Thanks Guys! Any DIY way of testing the sensors?
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Old 05-14-2013, 08:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoodlum View Post
Thanks Guys! Any DIY way of testing the sensors?
http://www.bmwfanatics.co.za/showthread.php?tid=17759

As Hexy said, the culprit is most likely the rear drivers side sensor. Click on the link to see how to clean it, and you might as well clean all the other ones as well. This could be the cheapest solution for you if it works.
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Old 05-14-2013, 09:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoodlum View Post
Any DIY way of testing the sensors?
Three solid yellow ABS/Brake/DSC lights on the E38, E46, and E39 almost always indicates either a single bad sensor (why people replace all four is beyond me) or the 7th aluminum wire lifted off the gold bondpad inside the Bosch ABS control module (most often version 5.7 but others are afflicted similarly):
1. Go to the first thread in the E39 forums (the VERY best of E39 Links)
2. Search for ABS (you'll find this post)
3. Click on this canonical summary in that post (in addition, see Bill's 'logic' of testing ABS sensors).
Note: The lights may come on all at once, or one at a time, and they may be intermittent, and in the beginning they may go out when you restart the car but come back; eventually they become lit solid all the time. It's all the same problem when you have the ABS Brake DSC trifecta!

Luckily, almost always, resolution is quick, simple, and reasonably inexpensive:
- Quick: In a half hour with a DMM, you'll know exactly what components failed;
- Simple: Removal of speed sensors (<$100 each) and/or the ABS control module (<$500 new) is a ten-minute job each;
- Cheap: My ABS control module rebuild cost me $105 USD, plus another $25 for tax & shipping (and had I known then what I know now, I would have tried to fix it for free).

In summary, the diagnostic flow-chart procedure to follow (summarized from this thread) is:
a. Open the hood, disconnect the ABS control module harness & check the four wheel speed sensors with a DMM;
b. If any wheel speed sensor tests bad, doublecheck at the appropriate wheel; replace the bad one with an OE sensor (<$100, rarely more than one!);
c. If all four speed sensors are good, simply send your ABS control module to BBA/MM/ATE (recommended in that order) for a rebuild ($300-$150 in toto);
d. If the rebuilder can't repair your module (takes about 5 days overall), buy a new module ($480 from Jared at EACTuning) & have the VIN recoded at the stealer (about $120).



In almost all (if not all) ABS, Brake, & DSC light trifecta situations, it's that simple!

BTW, while your ABS control module is out of the car (about 5 days), the following anomalies may occur:
- Brake/DSC/ABS trifecta solid yellow lights (on the instrument cluster)
- Service Engine Soon (SES) solid yellow light lit (on the instrument cluster)
- No ABS (upon hard braking under low-traction conditions)
- No traction control (DSC or ASC on lateral action)
- No speedometer (use a portable GPS navigation unit if you're worried about that)
- No odometer (again, use a portable GPS unit if this bothers you)
- No tripmeter (use a portable GPS unit if it's a worry to you)
- No cruise control
- OBDII diagnostic trouble code DTC P0500, i.e., bad speed sensor (clear by driving or with an OBDII scanner)
- No possibility of passing (California at least) smog inspections (until you replace the ABS control module & clear the DTC)
- No speed-sensitive automatic door locks (if enabled at the stealer)
- No GPS (if you have navigation)
- No mileage calculations on the instrument cluster
- No fuel consumption calculations on the instrument cluster
- No range indications on the instrument cluster
- No speed-sensitive radio (if equipped)
- No speed-sensitive wipers (if equipped)
- Erratic fuel gauge (especially when near empty, so keep the tank at greater than 3/4 at all times)
- Erratic transmission shifting (if automatic; if it bothers you, switch to manual shifting)

SUMMARY:
The problem is usually a single wheel sensor goes bad (wires or the <$100 sensor), or the ABS control module goes bad (an aluminum resistance-welded wire lifts off its bond pad, Bill kindly ran a full autopsy here). Debugging is best done with a DMM; an OBDII scanner can ONLY find "communication errors", i.e., it cannot tell a bad speed or pressure sensor from a bad ABS control module and will often report the wrong problem because it isn't inserted BETWEEN the ABS control module and the various sensors (see extensive reports by 540iman on this). The ABS control module costs ~$150 to $300 to rebuild, ~$500 to replace; if you put anything back on other than your original ABS control module, the VIN will need to be recoded (15 minutes with a GT-1 or Autologic or similar; impossible otherwise). You'll need to clear your OBDII DTC codes after you fix everything if you plan on passing smog tests that week (ask me how I know). If you need to replace a speed sensor, don't go aftermarket; get as close to OE as possible.

Before you send your ABS control module out for rebuilding, please consider opening it up first, post pictures to Bill's ABS autopsy thread (the rebuilders say they work on previously opened ABS control modules all the time). If you fix the broken wire, post that to the thread as a success story!



EDIT: If anyone has a good cheap source of a dab of conductive epoxy, that would be very useful indeed!

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Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need

Last edited by bluebee; 05-14-2013 at 09:15 AM.
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  #7  
Old 05-14-2013, 09:17 AM
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ahull ahull is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoodlum View Post
Thanks Guys! Any DIY way of testing the sensors?
link in wiki has it.
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DIY E46 Merit Badges: Sunroof resurrection, CCV, OFHG, VCG w/ VANOS seals, DISA, Cooling Refresh I, steering giubo, window regs, Magnetic Infandibulator (see wiki)
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Old 05-14-2013, 09:25 AM
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Holy crap, Bluebee! Cracking into the ABS..... whoa.
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DIY E46 Merit Badges: Sunroof resurrection, CCV, OFHG, VCG w/ VANOS seals, DISA, Cooling Refresh I, steering giubo, window regs, Magnetic Infandibulator (see wiki)
DIY On deck: Rear Diff bushing. UUC SSK, clutch job eventually, Wavetrac LSD
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  #9  
Old 05-14-2013, 12:00 PM
hoodlum hoodlum is offline
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I found a used rear wheel sensor for $15. My car is an 01 325CI. Will other e46 models work?
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Old 05-14-2013, 12:45 PM
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OfTheLost OfTheLost is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoodlum View Post
I found a used rear wheel sensor for $15. My car is an 01 325CI. Will other e46 models work?
Why dont you do what I suggested and start with what is easiest and cheapest? Buy a can of electrical parts cleaner and clean your sensors. This topic has been discussed countless times on the forum and 90% of the time that fixes the problem.
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  #11  
Old 05-14-2013, 12:53 PM
hoodlum hoodlum is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OfTheLost View Post
Why dont you do what I suggested and start with what is easiest and cheapest? Buy a can of electrical parts cleaner and clean your sensors. This topic has been discussed countless times on the forum and 90% of the time that fixes the problem.
Thanks. Iím definitely going to do that first since it is the cheapest route. But Iím considering worst case scenario and taking in what all members have to offer. I priced the sensor from a dealerÖÖ $195 !!! compared to that $15 is chump change. I have plans cleaning the sensors first thing when I get home and will post results.
Thanks again.
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  #12  
Old 05-14-2013, 11:40 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoodlum View Post
Thanks. I'm definitely going to do that first since it is the cheapest route.
Cleaning the four wheel speed sensors is a good idea which is covered in the DIY I referenced.


Also remember it takes about 10 or 15 minutes to test all four sensors (those are my test results above, for example - and my pictures of my connector - so you can ask me how I know).


So I'm spending more time writing this stuff up than it takes to figure out which of the wheel speed sensors are bad or not.

However, if you do find one that is bad (rarely will more than one be bad), then do consider other people's experience with the non-OEM sensors:
- What BMW parts & supplies are best to buy OEM (1)

If all four sensors test out good (probably you have a bad one there that innervates your speedo - but I'll let you determine that), then it costs zero to slice open your ABS control module with an Exacto knife, and then specifically probe the 7th aluminum wire to see if it has lifted off its bondpad.

In summary, these are the tools needed:
a) To test sensors in situ: DMM + a sandpapered paperclip
b) To test ABS control module: Exacto knife + a wooden toothpick
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Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need

Last edited by bluebee; 05-14-2013 at 11:50 PM.
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  #13  
Old 05-14-2013, 11:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoodlum View Post
I found a used rear wheel sensor for $15. My car is an 01 325CI. Will other e46 models work?
You can check realoem to see if it's the same part number as your vehicle.

If anything, you can use it as a $15 diagnostic test, simply by swapping out, one by one, the three sensors on the rear axle to see if the symptoms change.

What would I do?

I'd take the ten or fifteen minutes to test the sensors in vivo, without jacking up the vehicle and removing the sensors to clean them and/or to swap them out with the spare you plan on buying.

But that's just me.
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Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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Old 05-15-2013, 07:43 AM
hoodlum hoodlum is offline
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Thanks for the input. Im having truoble displaying pics. Also I do not have a DMM nor know what it is. I have to research it.
last night when I got home I cleaned the sensors. No luck. I do plan on picking the $15 sensor up tomorrow. Im also having trouble opening the PDF atachment you posted. i need to try it from home, here at work certain things are restricted.
THANKS AGAIN
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Old 05-15-2013, 08:56 AM
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ahull ahull is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoodlum View Post
Thanks for the input. Im having truoble displaying pics. Also I do not have a DMM nor know what it is. I have to research it.
last night when I got home I cleaned the sensors. No luck. I do plan on picking the $15 sensor up tomorrow. Im also having trouble opening the PDF atachment you posted. i need to try it from home, here at work certain things are restricted.
THANKS AGAIN
A DMM is a digital multi-meter - two probes and a hand held "meter" gauge to read volts, amps, resistance, etc. for electrical circuit testing. Can be had for relatively cheap at hardware stores or electronic parts store like Radio Shack.

I don't think a pdf was posted. The links look like they're part of a screen print image pasted into the post, if that makes sense.
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DIY MODS: AA Stage I supercharger, Meyle HD FCAs w Powerflex CABs, Bilstein shocks, Meyle HD Rtabs, Angel Eyes, Clear Corners/Markers w/ LEDs, LED tails, ZHP rims, Akebono pads, AUX input
DIY E46 Merit Badges: Sunroof resurrection, CCV, OFHG, VCG w/ VANOS seals, DISA, Cooling Refresh I, steering giubo, window regs, Magnetic Infandibulator (see wiki)
DIY On deck: Rear Diff bushing. UUC SSK, clutch job eventually, Wavetrac LSD

Last edited by ahull; 05-15-2013 at 08:59 AM.
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Old 05-15-2013, 01:34 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Never shy away from buying tools you need to perform a job because, in the end, the tools are free.
- What to tell those who haven't yet bonded with their bimmer who feel they don't have time, money, expertise, or tools to DIY & why the tools are free when they do so (1)

Without a DMM, you can't see or feel the "electricity", so you can't fix half the electrical things that go wrong on a bimmer without just dumbly throwing parts at the problem - which - while it works eventually - costs far more in the end than diagnostic effort does.

For the basic tools you'll need for working on your bimmer, see these references:
- Common tools needed for the BMW & an obdii DTC scanner & an SRS reset tool & accurate measurement tools & specialty cooling system tools

Note: The Hall-effect wheel speed sensors aren't diodes - but - they 'act' sort of like diodes do - which is the action we take advantage of when running the quick test on them from the engine bay.
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Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need

Last edited by bluebee; 05-15-2013 at 01:36 PM.
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Old 05-20-2013, 09:14 AM
hoodlum hoodlum is offline
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bluebee, thanks for the info. Unfortunatley if was hard for me to understand since the pictures dont display here at work. I looked it up this past weekend at home and its true what they say, "a picture is worht a thousnad words".
Im off to lunch to pick up a DMM and will check the sensors tonight. I did buy the $15 sensor and replaced the rear left then the right. No change. Could have been a bad one too. But testing tonight will revieve more info. Thanks again.
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Old 05-20-2013, 09:24 AM
hoodlum hoodlum is offline
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BTW, can you help in pointing out where the ABS control module harness is located?
Hers a pic on my engine bay

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Old 05-20-2013, 09:42 AM
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ahull ahull is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoodlum View Post
BTW, can you help in pointing out where the ABS control module harness is located?
Hers a pic on my engine bay

Attachment 377614
your abs should be under your brake master and fluid res. right next to the dme bin that you have open top right of your photo.
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DIY MODS: AA Stage I supercharger, Meyle HD FCAs w Powerflex CABs, Bilstein shocks, Meyle HD Rtabs, Angel Eyes, Clear Corners/Markers w/ LEDs, LED tails, ZHP rims, Akebono pads, AUX input
DIY E46 Merit Badges: Sunroof resurrection, CCV, OFHG, VCG w/ VANOS seals, DISA, Cooling Refresh I, steering giubo, window regs, Magnetic Infandibulator (see wiki)
DIY On deck: Rear Diff bushing. UUC SSK, clutch job eventually, Wavetrac LSD
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Old 05-21-2013, 06:52 AM
hoodlum hoodlum is offline
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Guys, I owe y'all a lot of thanks for having patience with me in trying to sort this out. I dropped by Harbor Freight before going home last night to pick up a DMM. Well during the day I was thinking of my game plan for once I got home. I got to thinking, "I did check all of the fuses when my fuel pump went out" could I have MAYBE misplaced one? Ptss.. of course not. I'm not the Dumb. Well I'm here to tell you, I will never underestimate my own stupidity. I decided to double check all of the fuses using the fuse card. Six fuses are related to the ABS, ASC and DSC, I had misplaced TWO! I had accidently placed them in the spare chambers. I felt like an idiot but at the same time I was elated!
The bright side of the story? I'm walking away a much knowledgeable person on Trifecta light issues. More than I ever would have if not for this little mishap.
Again, thanks to bluebee, ahull and everyone else that posted help! I hope to one day contribute to this site as much as y'all have.
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Old 05-21-2013, 07:05 AM
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Old 05-21-2013, 07:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoodlum View Post
Guys, I owe y'all a lot of thanks for having patience with me in trying to sort this out. I dropped by Harbor Freight before going home last night to pick up a DMM. Well during the day I was thinking of my game plan for once I got home. I got to thinking, "I did check all of the fuses when my fuel pump went out" could I have MAYBE misplaced one? Ptss.. of course not. I'm not the Dumb. Well I'm here to tell you, I will never underestimate my own stupidity. I decided to double check all of the fuses using the fuse card. Six fuses are related to the ABS, ASC and DSC, I had misplaced TWO! I had accidently placed them in the spare chambers. I felt like an idiot but at the same time I was elated!
The bright side of the story? I'm walking away a much knowledgeable person on Trifecta light issues. More than I ever would have if not for this little mishap.
Again, thanks to bluebee, ahull and everyone else that posted help! I hope to one day contribute to this site as much as y'all have.


Stuff like that happens to all of us at one point or another. Just like monkeying around with computers, a lot of times it works one way and one way only so you have to be careful what you mess with and be able to undo what you may muck up by mistake. Glad it wasn't anything expensive or difficult to fix. Going into the abs on any car is serious and it's a PITA to get to on the e46 from what I can tell.

Now...
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2003 330i TiAg Sport Pkg ~90k miles
DIY MODS: AA Stage I supercharger, Meyle HD FCAs w Powerflex CABs, Bilstein shocks, Meyle HD Rtabs, Angel Eyes, Clear Corners/Markers w/ LEDs, LED tails, ZHP rims, Akebono pads, AUX input
DIY E46 Merit Badges: Sunroof resurrection, CCV, OFHG, VCG w/ VANOS seals, DISA, Cooling Refresh I, steering giubo, window regs, Magnetic Infandibulator (see wiki)
DIY On deck: Rear Diff bushing. UUC SSK, clutch job eventually, Wavetrac LSD

Last edited by ahull; 05-21-2013 at 07:32 AM.
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