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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 3 Series / 4 Series > E36 (1991 - 1999)

E36 (1991 - 1999)
The E36 chassis 3-Series BMW was a huge hit among driving enthusiasts from the first moment the car hit the pavement. The E36 won numerous awards over the years it was produced and is still a favorite of many BMW enthusiasts to this day! -- View the E36 Wiki

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  #8951  
Old 06-17-2013, 11:31 AM
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C14 Rider C14 Rider is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheFinanceGuy View Post
so because Audi?

No, I totally understand that logic. 11 years newer is nice. I tend to drive my wife's 2012 Forester on the weekends. It doesn't rattle, or make strange noises that I have to listen to/worry about...
Its partly the Audi but overall needs changed I guess..

Almost hate to part with it because the car just has soul or character, the Audi is smooth that its almost boring at times...then the supercharger kicks in
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  #8952  
Old 06-17-2013, 12:09 PM
hnaz hnaz is offline
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Mein Auto: 128i M, M3, 325is M-Tech
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Originally Posted by TheFinanceGuy View Post
so because Audi?

No, I totally understand that logic. 11 years newer is nice. I tend to drive my wife's 2012 Forester on the weekends. It doesn't rattle, or make strange noises that I have to listen to/worry about...
Mine doesn't rattle or make noises?
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  #8953  
Old 06-17-2013, 03:09 PM
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TheFinanceGuy TheFinanceGuy is offline
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Mine doesn't rattle or make noises?
My interior doesn't. But I have rattle/knock/clunk upfront that I can't seem to find. Also exhaust heat shield rattle....


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99 540i TiAg
98 328i hellrot (sold)
96 318iC black (sold)
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  #8954  
Old 06-17-2013, 03:29 PM
hnaz hnaz is offline
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My interior doesn't. But I have rattle/knock/clunk upfront that I can't seem to find. Also exhaust heat shield rattle....


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That is either your pivot ball joint, sway bar linkages, or sway bars.
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  #8955  
Old 06-17-2013, 03:35 PM
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Today on my Bimmer I...

Whole front end has been checked a few times by me and my Indy (his name is Dave). It's going back to Dave next Wednesday for a post HG check. I asked him again to look. He has even driven my car for 40 miles and heard it too.
It's just a mystery for now. At some point the worn part will present itself.


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99 540i TiAg
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96 318iC black (sold)
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  #8956  
Old 06-17-2013, 06:34 PM
jitsjaf2009 jitsjaf2009 is offline
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Mein Auto: 1995 325i Convertible
Look for your missing tool in the engine compartment. (Chuckle!!)
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  #8957  
Old 06-17-2013, 06:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheFinanceGuy View Post
My interior doesn't. But I have rattle/knock/clunk upfront that I can't seem to find. Also exhaust heat shield rattle....


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Have you checked your strut bearings? If your struts have been replaced check to ensure the center nut is fully tightened also. Either of these will give you a noticeable clunk.
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  #8958  
Old 06-17-2013, 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by dc_wright View Post
Have you checked your strut bearings? If your struts have been replaced check to ensure the center nut is fully tightened also. Either of these will give you a noticeable clunk.
this is my issue... i need pillow ball mounts on my coils and not the oem rubber mounts.
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Drop the clutch, proceed and ain't care.
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  #8959  
Old 06-17-2013, 07:25 PM
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pillow mounts??



df
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  #8960  
Old 06-17-2013, 07:30 PM
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pillow mounts??



df
your standard poly centered camber plate. they're called "pillow ball mounts"
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Drop the clutch, proceed and ain't care.
  • '06 325xi 6MT
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  #8961  
Old 06-17-2013, 07:43 PM
hnaz hnaz is offline
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Have you checked your strut bearings? If your struts have been replaced check to ensure the center nut is fully tightened also. Either of these will give you a noticeable clunk.
Ahh yes, good call. I had a clunk that was a result of this when I had my 318i. Soon as I tightened the center nut, clunking went away.
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My 325is M-Tech Restoration Thread
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  #8962  
Old 06-18-2013, 05:48 AM
hnaz hnaz is offline
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Today on my Bimmer I am thinking about giving EBC a go. I see the prices at ECSTuning is pretty good. But I just don't know... they seem pretty cheap for "track pads"
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My 325is M-Tech Restoration Thread
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  #8963  
Old 06-18-2013, 06:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dc_wright View Post
Have you checked your strut bearings? If your struts have been replaced check to ensure the center nut is fully tightened also. Either of these will give you a noticeable clunk.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kdoherty View Post
this is my issue... i need pillow ball mounts on my coils and not the oem rubber mounts.
Wait- Can you explain these a bit more? We might be on to something here. Though, the upper strut mounts were replaced 10k miles ago. The clunk was there after replacing...
What is the difference between the bearing and the mount? It seems as though the bearing is incorporated with the mount?
(disclaimer:only had about 4 minutes of google time to "learn" this....)
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  #8964  
Old 06-18-2013, 06:58 AM
redE36girl redE36girl is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheFinanceGuy View Post
Wait- Can you explain these a bit more? We might be on to something here. Though, the upper strut mounts were replaced 10k miles ago. The clunk was there after replacing...
What is the difference between the bearing and the mount? It seems as though the bearing is incorporated with the mount?
(disclaimer:only had about 4 minutes of google time to "learn" this....)
Ok is it a random clunk or is it all the time. Because my E36 has had a random clunk seance long before i did my suspension. an what i mean by random is i can go a few weeks nothing then it will clunk when coming to a stop all my brakes are new minus the calipers. So i am also wondering if we are having the same clunk. Squeaks and creaks tend to happen with older cars. I am just going crazy with my random clunk.
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  #8965  
Old 06-18-2013, 10:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheFinanceGuy View Post
Wait- Can you explain these a bit more? We might be on to something here. Though, the upper strut mounts were replaced 10k miles ago. The clunk was there after replacing...
What is the difference between the bearing and the mount? It seems as though the bearing is incorporated with the mount?
(disclaimer:only had about 4 minutes of google time to "learn" this....)
The bearing is part of the upper mount. Since the clunk has been there since the strut replacement I'll be that the center nut isn't tightened completely. There's a shoulder on the strut shaft and if the top nut isn't tightened to where the upper mount is sitting on that shoulder firmly. you'll have a clunk. It can be really difficult to get that center nut tight enough since it's hard to hold the shaft from turning while you're trying to tighten the nut down. I had the same thing on my left front after I did mine. A quick hit with the electric impact wrench fixed it.
If you use a pneumatic impact, turn the pressure way down because you don't want to over do it and break off the top of the strut shaft or strip the threads.
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  #8966  
Old 06-18-2013, 11:01 AM
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Thanks Don.

I'll try tightening those. I don't have an air/pneumatic gun. Maybe I"ll ask the shop next week....
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  #8967  
Old 06-18-2013, 01:34 PM
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Re: Today on my Bimmer I...

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheFinanceGuy View Post
Thanks Don.

I'll try tightening those. I don't have an air/pneumatic gun. Maybe I"ll ask the shop next week....
You could always do it the muscular way.......

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  #8968  
Old 06-19-2013, 03:17 PM
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Today on my Bimmer I...

Awesome Jon!

Is that a wall mounted shop vac in the background?


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  #8969  
Old 06-19-2013, 03:21 PM
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Shigeta Shigeta is offline
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So in love with that color, Jon!
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  #8970  
Old 06-19-2013, 03:44 PM
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ZeGerman ZeGerman is online now
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Nice Jon! I've always wanted to do that on my car, but just don't want to risk it. Also love the shop vac on the wall, and the plywood on the floor...
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  #8971  
Old 06-19-2013, 05:06 PM
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The plywood is to catch my persistent power steering leak.

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Must... Fix... Soon... so... easy.. so... cheap...




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  #8972  
Old 06-20-2013, 12:07 AM
TheRealTalk978 TheRealTalk978 is offline
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Mein Auto: 1997 328i
Today on my bimmer i bought

Euro clear tail lights

Euro clear passanger lights

Clear side markees

New hood and trunk emblems

Also I want to replace my steeeing wheel. What you think about grip royal for a replacement?
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  #8973  
Old 06-21-2013, 12:55 PM
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Did the annual spark plug, plug boot replacement, and compression check today. Compression good on all six and plugs looked good!
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  #8974  
Old 06-21-2013, 02:59 PM
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Got a box 'o parts in the mail today. I'll be replacing the upper & lower radiator hoses (which, to my knowledge, are the originals), along with the expansion tank return line (which is the cause of my leak). I'll also be replacing my aluminum t-stat housing with the OEM plastic unit, which many of you will say I'm crazy for doing. The truth is that my aluminum housing always leaked just a tiny bit. Basically not enough to even matter, but still. A lot of the CCA guys around here have stories of the aluminum housings leaking or seeping, so it isn't unheard of. I still think the aluminum housings are a good idea, but sometimes they work, and sometimes they don't. Once I get the leak squared away, I can get to installing the last 2 new spark plugs and see if that cures my engine stumble (not holding breath...).



BMW of Silver Spring was kind enough to throw in an extra lower radiator hose, free of charge. Maybe that was their way of saying thanks for making me wait forever while they special ordered an E36 lower radiator hose.... It's such a common replacement part, so why they don't have an entire room filled with them is beyond me. Also had to special order the expansion tank hose and cable ties which keep it secured to the inner fender well/frame rail. Anyway, if anyone needs a brand new OEM BMW lower radiator hose, let me know.
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For sale: OEM E36 328 catback

Last edited by ZeGerman; 06-21-2013 at 03:52 PM.
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  #8975  
Old 06-22-2013, 09:32 AM
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Interesting! Going back to the plastic is certainly contrarian, but so long as it wasn't molded in a "green" country I don't see why it shouldn't hold up ok.

Moved the connection point on the Turner front sway to the forward position today.
The rear most position allowed a bit of suspension movement before the sway bar started exerting some force. The forward position bring the sway bar in immediately. Noticeable difference in turn in. It will be interesting to see how the sway bar end links hold up since they're under much more load now and at a more extreme angle.





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