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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)

E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #51  
Old 02-21-2013, 07:58 PM
michaelvn michaelvn is offline
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To BMC350i. Your prob has nothing to do with your repair (congratulation btw for a successful DIY).
What you need is to recode your Car/Key memory using NCS Expert.
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  #52  
Old 02-22-2013, 07:22 PM
wolf888 wolf888 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ilhb View Post
WARNING!
What you get with this is that you wont be able to start your car next time your key runs out of battery.
This coil is used to get energy to the rfid that unlocks the electronic blocking system. When you plug in the key, a signal is sent to the key by the car and the key sends a signal back to the car using part of the energy contained in the signal sent by the car. This energy is collected using, correct me if I'm wrong that shame coil you are removing.

Thanks for the post.
Everything what you said will be correct ONLY for cars after 2000! but I`ve made this DIY for cars from 1996-2000 !!! My key still working great and it was already over 2 years!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! + when battery will die I`m will replace battery with new one easy and quick

Last edited by wolf888; 02-22-2013 at 07:27 PM.
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  #53  
Old 02-23-2013, 05:43 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
Here is a composite that I made from the information in this and other threads, expressly to help explain the diamond key replacement particulars for others, long after we're gone.
(Let me know if it's missing any critical detail.)

.

.

EDIT: Removed pointers and screenshots to www.bmwgm5.com/KF_WoS.htm as per PM from scottjoh.
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Please read the suggested threads and add value, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need

Last edited by bluebee; 02-26-2013 at 08:52 AM.
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  #54  
Old 03-06-2013, 12:52 PM
seventysix seventysix is offline
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Mein Auto: 318i
Damaged Key PCB

Hi,

New here, first post of hopefully many.

First question -

Purchased a second hand 318 with no working remote.

The key was all taped up, and once cutting through it all I can see why it doesn't work (picture).



I am in the UK and this is a 433.92 MHz key.

Looking back through this thread I can see that a previous post stated the component (on the left as you look at the picture), is a 22nH coil for a 315MHz key. The post is specific as to the key frequency, so does anyone know what it would be for a 433.92 MHz key?

The component on the right looks to be a capacitor, but what value?

Also the battery was floating around and two of the micro-switches don't work, so they really buggered this one up.

Finally, will this pcb board work in a new key if I get one cut (it's really knackered looking), or is there anything within the plastic molding which assists with the immobilizer?

Thanks all for any advice.
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  #55  
Old 03-07-2013, 05:43 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seventysix View Post
The component on the right looks to be a capacitor, but what value?
You might do well by sending the key off to Scott at http://www.bmwgm5.com/key_repair.htm
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  #56  
Old 03-08-2013, 12:13 PM
seventysix seventysix is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
You might do well by sending the key off to Scott at http://www.bmwgm5.com/key_repair.htm
unfortunately this is my only key! and being in the UK...
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  #57  
Old 03-08-2013, 12:17 PM
seventysix seventysix is offline
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Just need to know the values of the inductor and the cap, I've looked for circuit diagrams but have had no luck
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  #58  
Old 03-08-2013, 01:05 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seventysix View Post
Just need to know the values of the inductor and the cap, I've looked for circuit diagrams but have had no luck
Well, looking at the pictures on this thread, after zooming, I can't even tell 'what' they are (neither looks like an inductor, for example).
Both seem to be connected to the antenna; however, circuit boards can be many levels deep, so all we can 'see' is the top trace.
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Last edited by bluebee; 03-08-2013 at 01:06 PM.
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  #59  
Old 06-28-2013, 05:46 AM
Toolhead Toolhead is offline
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Mein Auto: e39 530i
Diamond key replacement batteyr DIY (NO 56K)

Must use rechargeable battery - Panasonic or equivalent.
It does charge by induction when in the ignition driving.
If cutting fob open do not let blade go deeper than 2 mm.
If the fob won't initialize the new battery may be flat so use it in the car or sit it on a 3 volt source or close to - eg phone charger.
Replacing the battery is not hard just be careful not to damage the PC board and don't overheat the battery when soldering.
www.BMWGM5.com has product and some good advice.
Miles of batteries on eBay.
$300 per key from BMW here. What have you got to loose - have a go.
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  #60  
Old 08-23-2014, 09:42 AM
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540iman 540iman is offline
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Know this is an "older thread", but I have seen possibly other threads where people have tried to find batteries with 4.0 V or higher amp hour ratings to either increase range or increase battery capacity between charges. Do NOT do this. If you buy a battery with a higher amp hour rating, then the induced recharge current needs to increase as well. The same goes for battery voltage. The rate at which a battery recharges is based upon the DIFFERENTIAL between the battery rated voltage and the voltage which is induced by the car. Stay with the rated voltage and rated capacity in terms of amp hour ratings or you may find that while you purchased a battery that in "theory" would work better, this is conditional upon the voltage and the maximum current that the induced charge has. Too big a battery in terms of Volts or amps requires a charging circuit which similarly has increased voltage differential and increased current in charge mode.
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  #61  
Old 01-24-2015, 08:05 AM
mahres mahres is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seventysix View Post
Just need to know the values of the inductor and the cap, I've looked for circuit diagrams but have had no luck
I am missing the same components, too. I mailed BMW5GM but he refused to tell me the values. he wants to do it himself for 50$, which far too expensive for soldering two components of 5 cents.

Did you find out which values these components have?
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  #62  
Old 01-30-2015, 11:18 AM
ndz ndz is offline
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Mein Auto: 00 528i/5, 99 540iT
Check the battery voltage before replacing it. It may be fine. I just fixed one of my diamond keys by re-flowing cold / cracked solder joints at the battery.

Hardest part is slicing the key open. It takes a lot of cuts with your blade. Have patience and don't cut yourself.
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  #63  
Old 01-30-2015, 11:39 AM
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pudl pudl is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ndz View Post
Check the battery voltage before replacing it. It may be fine. I just fixed one of my diamond keys by re-flowing cold / cracked solder joints at the battery.

Hardest part is slicing the key open. It takes a lot of cuts with your blade. Have patience and don't cut yourself.
Consider this. How old is the battery? You think it will last another decade? Replace the battery if you are going to glue the key back together.
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  #64  
Old 04-14-2015, 07:11 AM
world24travelle world24travelle is offline
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Mein Auto: 525i 2001 and 320i 2000
DIY Key Fob replacement with regular battery

Hey guys,

This is my DIY on how i replaced the battery in my key fob. I used a regular watch battery and two weeks later its still working just fine.
Please give me feedback and tell me if there will be any issues doing it the way i did it
but i did not have to re-initialize my keys
my car is a 2000 320i

cheers

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  #65  
Old 11-28-2016, 02:52 PM
wiredawg100 wiredawg100 is offline
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Mein Auto: 2001 525i (E-39)
Quote:
Originally Posted by anderduong View Post
I did all this before i came to this ad, but this is pretty much the same of what i did. so all you guys that new to just follow this ad.

1. I pop the remote open using a knife (must start from the back like in the picture
included here)

2. I use a razor blade to cut only the batter off of the metal thats soldered to both sides of the battery, then remove the battery (notice, i didn't remove the metal, just the battery only)

3. I install a regular 3 volt cell batter that i bought from Longs Drugs(CVS)
(energizer 2025) <--- thats the batter i bought. you don't need to order any battery online because they are all the same. any 3volt same size will work.

4. I re-align the metal piece that holds the battery, then i put the battery back. ( i did not solder it, i just put it back in. it will stay in place when you put the shell back anyways.

5. i use a "clear silicon adhesive" to seal the ring all around the key, then i use regular paper tape and tape it down so it hold together until the silicons are try.

6. you're done, now follow the re-initiate (re-program the remote)


HOW PROGRAM THE REMOTE ( RE-INITIATE)









(MY STORY OF WHAT IT TAKES TO FIX MY REMOTE)
AND HOW HARD OR EASY OR DOES IT REALLY WORK??
READ BEYOND THEN YOU'LL GET YOUR ANSWER!!!

I drove my car with a dead fob remote key for about 2 year, today for some reason the door lock broke on me, i cannot unlock or lock the car with the key anymore, so i had to get in the car by the trunk, ( i had to open the trunk, pulled the release for the rear seats, push the seats down then get in and unlock my car to get in) to this point i know i couldn't lock my car anymore, i though i had to spend a few hundreds going to the dealer to get a new key or to fix the freaking door lock. I then remembered that i read something on the bimmerfest, and someone mentioned something about the Diamond key they said " you're not suppose to open it though some people had try" so I had to take my risk, open it fix the problem cheap or go spend a few hundreds and have the Dealers do it. Knowingless of what I'm doing, I took a knife and pop the freaking key total open, I wasn't suprise of what i see inside. I had to use a razar blade to cut the soldering off both side of the battery cell. (i only cut to remove the battery, not the cell that was soldered to hold the battery. so I only removed the battery). I read the batter it says 3volt, In the mean time, i had an extra batter that i bought for my Home Garage romote, it was also 3 volts but this one a little bit thicker. i put that battery in and follow the instructions of How To Program my remote from others on bimmerfest. I did what they said to do, did it so many times then i gave up because it didn't work. I went back, took everything out again, i try to re align everything specially the battery to be in proper position. i went back to my car: 1. key in ignition, switch it on then off quickly 2. take it out right away then press and hold down unlock button while pressing the lock button exactly 3 times, then let go the unlock button, my doors signaled, 4. i put the key back in the ignition switch it on then off to finalize. it work, and i was so freaking happy, it was one of the best moment for me. you don't know how much it meant to me to fix my key. I'm now happy bacause i can use my remote to lock and unlock, i don't have to worry about my stupidd broken lock, I saved myself from the Dealers atleast a few hundreds.
Hello Anderduong, just wondering the status of your battery replacement "FOB"...since, its been awhile...
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