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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #26  
Old 06-11-2013, 10:17 AM
1hander 1hander is online now
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Mein Auto: 00 540i M-06 X5 4.4
got all parts in..replaced all control arms/upper/lower/thrust arms and tie rod ends in the front..new hubs/bearings, rotors,pads,calipers/carriers,sliders, stainless lines, flushed all the fluid front and rear, new fan and fan clutch, wipers, taillight bulbs,a set of colder plugs.. installed the coilovers with camber pillowball mounts, torqued all the wheels by hand to spec in star pattern..dropped off at the stealership for front end alignment.

so well know in about a month ...i do about 250 miles a week.. now i need to get help with wheels and tires, i hsavent gotten one reply iin the wheels section lol

i want to thank all you guys for your help and the free knowledge you all give up willingly, i know that experience and knowledgge you guys share didnt come to you easy or for free... it ame by sweat tears and money...thanks for helping me out guys
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  #27  
Old 07-04-2013, 03:25 PM
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so far so good..no rotor warping...
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  #28  
Old 01-13-2014, 05:11 PM
1hander 1hander is online now
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i thought i would update this... as you guys know ive been trying to fihgure out why only the front left is warping...

to date it has all knew control arms,hubs, bearings, idler arms...etc etc ...basically a completely new front suspension and steering, when i had the rotors cut , i tightened the wheels in a star pattern...hell ive replaced even the entire rear suspension just in case it was causing a problem..

i make sure to bed the pads in right, and i never keep my foot on the brakes at stops

after about 3900 milles, the front left rotor is shaking again...


ive also noticed that my 2006 x5 is afflilcted with the same disease, on it i replaced the whole left side suspension and at about 4k miles it starts to shake and as the mileage increases the shake worsens depending on how hot the rotors get

ive talked to my bmw mech and he says that they change alot of rotors because of the front left warping for some reason..so im at a loss i basically have two sets of rotors for both vehicles and i swap them out about every 18 months, i stopped driving so much....is the only fix i have come up with...i find it strange that my x5 warpds the same rotor...

thanks for all the help and insight fellas
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  #29  
Old 01-13-2014, 05:45 PM
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brake hose... or maybe you dont know how to drive.. and or you need to step your stopping power up... (drilled rotors)
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  #30  
Old 01-13-2014, 06:22 PM
1hander 1hander is online now
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i do ok in the driving department lol... but theres always that chance that i just cant drive, i use brembo drilled rotors on the 540... you could be right, maybe i need to just get some big brakes .. but why is it always the left only...never the right
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  #31  
Old 04-06-2014, 05:43 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Another thread on repeated vibration is here, today:
Warped rotors again
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  #32  
Old 04-06-2014, 11:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
Another thread on repeated vibration is here, today:
Warped rotors again

This thread seems to have been solved via new caliper and/or caliper slide pins. Seeing as it is only happening on the left side.



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  #33  
Old 04-06-2014, 11:03 AM
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Also stainless steel lines aren't bought to avoid boiling your brake fluid. That wasn't an accurate statement.


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  #34  
Old 08-01-2014, 02:48 PM
1hander 1hander is online now
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unfortunately the front left rotor shake has rearerd its ugly head again...

after replacing all the control arms in the front, tie rod ends, centerlink, new spindles(bearings) , i even went as far as replacing both front spindle carriers, so the front end is brand new .... i modified the way i drive and use the brakes, never hold them down at a full stop... ive tried brembo rotors, dealership rotors.. it just takes longer for it to start shaking now... ive rebuilt the calipers with upgraded slider pin things,then bought new calipers and transplanted the pin set .. i tried drilled rotors, slotted rotors... like i said, it just takes longer but eventually it starts to shake when braking...

im at a loss, the only thing i can think now ... and im grasping at straws here, is that the chassis was maybe wrecked and is tweaked somehow... like i said grasping....

my next step is going to be going to bigger brakes...unless someone has another theory i can chase... thank you guys for all your input
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Last edited by 1hander; 08-01-2014 at 03:02 PM.
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  #35  
Old 08-01-2014, 05:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1hander View Post
my next step is going to be going to bigger brakes...unless someone has another theory i can chase... thank you guys for all your input
I see you said you changed your braking habits, which might have staved off the vibration for a longer period of time. But, if it keeps coming back, it's not the rotors, and it's not the pads, nor is it likely the calipers.

I still think it's pad deposits, growing over time, but, if you think it's the equipment, you can go for larger calipers, pads, and rotors.

I'm just not sure how larger "stuff" will help. Sure, it will dissipate heat better, but, what's that got to do with vibration?
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Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #36  
Old 08-01-2014, 09:56 PM
1hander 1hander is online now
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im at a loss for sure, i agree that the brake upgrade is awaste of money... even with just over 500hp at the wheels, the stock brakes seem to be up to the task of stopping the car with no problem...

it may very wheel be the pad deposits... my only argument with that, is why is it only the left rotor that shakes...always....never the right one.. my x5 has the same problem..only the left one,,never the right one...strange for sure...

you gave me and idea though....im going to remove the left rotor only and use a DA sander and sand both sides of the rotor to try to remove any pad deposits... the rotor surfaces are still pretty much completely straight with no grooves in them...if the shake goes away under braking then it is indeed pad deposits and bigger brakes will not do anything at all except make my wallet lighter..

what i have noticed is a squeek intermittent when im driving and pass by the divider walls and the sound bounves back...i looked at the rotor and on the inside only there is an approx 7 inch long scratch towards the very outside edge like its hitting something... the only thing it can make contact with is the pad... which means the rotor is wobbling, not sitting square on the hub...but its new so is the rotor, both surfaces were spotless when it installed them...which if it means what i think it means, the hub face or the face of the rotor is not perpendicular to the braking surfaces of the rotor..which means i need to buy another hub , buut what are the odds that the old one and the new i installed are out of spec for some reason...and what are the odds that the 4 different rotors, full face,slotted,drilled, brembo ..oem are out of spec, one would think that one of those boogers would be straight

i will post the results...
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  #37  
Old 08-02-2014, 07:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1hander View Post
why is it only the left rotor that shakes...always....never the right one..
Uneven pad deposits "could" do that, but I agree, it's unlikely they'd always just happen on the left rotor. They'd probably happen on both, considering the conditions should be the same or similar.

How do you know it's the left rotor?

When mine pulsates, I can hardly figure out which axle, let alone which wheels are the ones vibrating.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1hander View Post
im going to remove the left rotor only and use a DA sander and sand both sides of the rotor to try to remove any pad deposits...
That should work.
Let us know what happens.

You could also run a few re-bedding runs, and see if the vibration character changes (which is what seems to happen with me, although I can't explain why).
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Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #38  
Old 08-02-2014, 01:59 PM
1hander 1hander is online now
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every time i have the rotors cut, cuz i have them both cut at the same time regardless of it being on ly the left....

the right rotor requires waaaaayyyyyy less cutting than the left...ive kept track of it and right now the left rotor is at the minimum thickness from being cut more than the right.. so if i keep cutting them at ths rate, im just guessing here but i think if i returned to my old braking and driving habits that i would go through 3 left rotors to one right rotor.. the way it used to be, i was having the left rotor cut about every 3 or 4 months..

ill try the sanding bit and see what happens ...

i need to change out the diff bushings ... the front one is shot . while im in there im gonna replace the input and output seals and the guibo..change the diff fluid... unfortunately i cant find any place that rents the tool necessary to do those bushings so i think im gonna have to spend the money on a tool that im only gonna use once in my lifetime lol
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  #39  
Old 08-02-2014, 10:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1hander View Post
the right rotor requires waaaaayyyyyy less cutting than the left...
Ummm... er ... ok.

I'm rarely at a loss for words, but I'm not sure what to say in response.

I guess I'll just ask you to post a picture of the measurements, next time, to this thread, found by typing /warp f3 in the bestlinks:
- How do you measure "warp" (1)


Quote:
Originally Posted by 1hander View Post
so i think im gonna have to spend the money on a tool that im only gonna use once in my lifetime lol
I typed /bushings f3 in the bestlinks, and this popped up, which may help:
- How to make your own BMW subframe & differential bushings tool (1)
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

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__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need

Last edited by bluebee; 08-05-2014 at 11:07 PM.
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  #40  
Old 08-02-2014, 11:14 PM
1hander 1hander is online now
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very cool, if my damn lathe was working i would just sit down and make the tools needed...i need to spend money on tools to make tools...honestly ive just gotten lazy when it comes to making my own tools and stuff ... i just prefer to rent or buy when i can.. machining parts is so time consuming and i just dont have the patience to piece things toghether like alot of you guys do...i get lazy ..

i know i explainthings really weird most times..i know what im trying to say but it just doesnt come out right my bad... i think your right thopugh, i doubt its the rotor or the pads or the caliper...
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  #41  
Old 08-03-2014, 12:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1hander View Post
very cool, if my damn lathe was working i would just sit down and make the tools needed..
I haven't researched it, but the pictures don't seem to show a lathe being needed ...



Quote:
Originally Posted by 1hander View Post
.i know what im trying to say but it just doesnt come out right my bad... i
It's ok. I just gave up trying to understand.
Anyway, good luck as I'm done with this thread myself as there's nothing left for me to offer. Someone else will pitch in, I'm sure.
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Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need

Last edited by bluebee; 08-05-2014 at 11:07 PM.
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  #42  
Old 08-03-2014, 02:03 PM
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sorry for the frustration, i do appreciate your input and help in the matter..
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  #43  
Old 08-03-2014, 03:14 PM
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1hander, you have me stumped too. You say you have 500 HP so you must have a supercharger or turbo installed. Either that or a Corvette transplant. I can only think of my 1980 BMW 735, a Euro car I bought on the Grey Market. It was a 5 speed, handled great, and was quick and fast for it's day.

Like your car, it kept on warping front rotors. I'd buy quality new rotors and in a few thousand miles, they'd be shaking like crazy coming off the highway. I found out that BMW increased the thickness of the rotors on the E23 7 series (what my car was) in MY 1983. Soooo I bought used 1983 calipers from a salvage yard, rebuilt the calipers, bought new 1983 spec pads and rotors and installed all this new stuff on my 735. Guess what, all the shaking stopped. Didn't matter how much mileage I put on the brakes, no shaking.

I realized that BMW found that the OE front brakes on this model were undersized. Just a little more brake made the front brakes able to handle the weight and speed of the car with no warping.

So maybe a brake upgrade is not useless. My first though was using E39 M5 brakes but that car only had 400 HP. Maybe E60 M5 brakes would work or maybe you just have to spring for a big brake kit.

Please realize, I am just guessing. Upgrading the brakes certainly worked for my old E23. Maybe it would work for your 540.

Edit-Oh no, the M60 M5 brakes will probably not fit as the hub size for the E39 is bigger than that of the M60. M60 hubs will fit an E39 but you've just renewed the front wheel bearings. Anyway, a big brake kit is probably a more foolproof idea.

Last edited by johnstern; 08-04-2014 at 06:33 AM.
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  #44  
Old 08-03-2014, 03:36 PM
1hander 1hander is online now
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was supercharged.... now is turbo... i welcome any opinion as i am pretty stumped as to the problem as well.... even before the exytra power it was warping rotors every 4 or 5 k miles... now it excelerates so fast and violently...that with the car being heavy as hell..the brakes are definately working hard... the shaking when i apply the brakes from say 120mph is so violent that i would rather not touch the brakes at all..

ive been entertaining pretty much all opinions and theories and chasing all of them regardless of my own theories... i really think that the rotors are just getting too hot....but thats just my opinion...

i am definately considering a bigger brake upgrade but lets face it these brakes are pretty dam big... the 540 uses 324mm 12.75 inch rotor... the m5 uses 345mm 13.58 inch rotor...
i havent done the research here so im not sure if the calipers and rotors will just swap out..it would definately be cheaper than a big brake setup and it will add 3/4 inch of rotor to the mix .

first im going to try the sanding of the brake deposits and see if it goes away...if not then ive replaced everything else...the only other thing i can do is change to a bigger brake...

the only odd thing ive found since replacing the spindles on the front is the squeaking when driving,....and the partial scratching on the inside of both rotors...i have no idea how but maybe the new spindles i bought are somehow bent. the scratches on the rotors really have me thinking that there is a problem again with the spindles...

it may be as simple as brake pad deposits, but the sound that t he brake lathe makes is unmistakably warped rotors...and today i was inspecting both rotors and it looks like they have cracks in them..
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Last edited by 1hander; 08-03-2014 at 03:41 PM.
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  #45  
Old 08-03-2014, 06:16 PM
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Cracks certainly point to the possible need for bigger front brakes. I Googled E60 M5 brakes on an E39 and did very little reading but I thought it really isn't worth the trouble as issues with the master cylinder being able to handle the bigger pistons of the E60 M5 calipers came into question as well as the need for 19 inch wheels to clear the rotors/calipers.

Tuners like Turner Motorsport or Active Autowerke may be sources of good info for you. Certainly worth a phone call.

The scratches on the back side of your rotors certainly is strange. Are both wheels the same?Certainly a rock caught between the backing plate and the rotor would have the same symptoms. I always thought that some runout was built into the rotors so the pads would be pushed slightly back to let the rotors spin free. Maybe that's just an "old wives tale."

I wish you the best in your search to solve this problem. Maybe I should not say this, but it may be a good idea to post your problem on Bimmerforums. Many of us belong to both forums but you can't have too much feedback with a problem like yours.
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  #46  
Old 08-03-2014, 06:21 PM
1hander 1hander is online now
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i have 19s on it now... so at least thats not an issue...

if i did a brake upgrade... i could do the m5 brakes 13.5 ,,,, anything bigger would be a full on bigbrake kit 14 inch rotor...the m5 stuff is not terribly expensive on ebay
yes both rotors have the scratch in them, i made sure it wasnt the dustshield causing it

for around 300.00 or so i can get the calipers and rotors from an m5... def a cheaper option
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Last edited by 1hander; 08-03-2014 at 06:22 PM.
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  #47  
Old 08-03-2014, 09:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1hander View Post
i have 19s on it now... so at least thats not an issue...

if i did a brake upgrade... i could do the m5 brakes 13.5 ,,,, anything bigger would be a full on bigbrake kit 14 inch rotor...the m5 stuff is not terribly expensive on ebay
yes both rotors have the scratch in them, i made sure it wasnt the dustshield causing it

for around 300.00 or so i can get the calipers and rotors from an m5... def a cheaper option
Yeah! That sounds like the right price to see if bigger brakes help with your shaking. I know it's the worst and you can feel the shaking just beating up on the suspension.
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  #48  
Old 08-04-2014, 03:41 PM
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i know what you mean, the shaking is nasty...
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  #49  
Old 08-04-2014, 03:54 PM
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Im not reading thru all this crazyness... but if your going to spend all that money on what you think is going to be a upgrade to m5 brakes... why dont you at least try the sport pin kit first.
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  #50  
Old 08-04-2014, 04:31 PM
1hander 1hander is online now
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im well aware that going to m5 brakes is not really an upgrade...the calipers are identical..they just have the cute little M logo... the rotors are only .75 inches bigger... to be honest id rather just dump that money into a 14inch 8 pot brake setup...then at least if the rotor is still getting screwed up.. itll still look cool lmao

yes i have purchased and installed the sport pin kit.. no dice
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