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E85 / E86 Z4 (2003-2008)
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  #1  
Old 07-20-2013, 12:36 PM
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Z4M: Water Pump Service at 80K

I am at 79.5K miles and about 82 track days on the car in the last 5yrs 9mos. I figured its time to switch out the pump just to be on the safe side. I have ordered up a new pump, thermostat, coolant temp sensor and all new gaskets from Tischer but since the pump was special order, I will have to wait until Tue/Wed of next week to put that back in.

Below is what I did to take the pump out of the car.

- Car in service position


- I drained the coolant from the radiator drain plug and block drain last night. I followed the same steps I did at the 50K flush documented below
http://www.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=538686

- Underbody panel removed (8mm bolts, Phillips head bolts)


- Airbox with MAF removed (disconnected MAF plug and 7mm socket or flat head screw driver for clamp)



- Thermostat housing and coolant hose on the right. The engine hoist bracket and the thermostat share the 3 long bolts on top.


- Take wire out of the little black plastic clip


- Removing coolant hose to the right of the thermostat housing and the 3 bolts on top. Then carefully pry up and forward the housing. You will not be able to remove it just yet as the coolant hose to the left is still attached.




- Belts removed next using T50 bit for the top belt tensioner and T45 for the bottom tensioner




- Loosen the clamp on the coolant hose to the left of the thermostat housing. I undid the hose off the thermostat housing from under the car. I was careful to not tug on the hose but to slowly work it off the housing.


- Thermostat housing should now lift off the car. In my case the thermostat stayed on top of the water pump and I could lift it away separately.





- Four water pump pulley bolts removed next (10mm box wrench or shallow socket will work). I broke the bolts loose before taking the belt off, but they did not seem super tight so after should work as well. I was able to get to all 4 from the top.




- Pry the water pump pulley off.




- Put aside pulley and thermostat with housing


- Water pump has 5 10mm bolts; 2 long ones on the top, 2 short ones on the right side and one short one under. This last one is hidden behind the crank pulley and I got to it from under the car.



- Water pump removed; I pulled it carefully forward as there is a pipe with o-ring behind the pump. Unlike e46 M3s, we don't have a side pipe going into the pump and that makes life a bit easier.





My water pump plastic impeller was intact and there was no bearing noise or excessive play in the pump. My guess is this is a perfectly healthy pump but I will put a new one in once it comes in.
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  #2  
Old 07-21-2013, 02:28 PM
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Nice post. Thanks for taking the time. Applies equally to Z3 and Z4 S54 cars.
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  #3  
Old 07-21-2013, 05:32 PM
kalali kalali is offline
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I'm sorry if I missed something but everything you are changing looks well within its design limits and appear to be functioning properly. Sometimes you can cause more issues by "disturbing" components which tend to wear uniformly all within their tolerances since they were assembled new at the factory. That's been my experience with Italian cars . Aside from filters and fluids, sometimes a well intended preventive maintenance starts a never ending chain of events (leaks).
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Old 07-22-2013, 05:25 AM
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JonM JonM is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kalali View Post
I'm sorry if I missed something but everything you are changing looks well within its design limits and appear to be functioning properly. Sometimes you can cause more issues by "disturbing" components which tend to wear uniformly all within their tolerances since they were assembled new at the factory. That's been my experience with Italian cars . Aside from filters and fluids, sometimes a well intended preventive maintenance starts a never ending chain of events (leaks).
What is the alternative on a part like the water pump? Wait until it fails?
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  #5  
Old 07-22-2013, 08:41 AM
Mikey48 Mikey48 is offline
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Hey pal, Nice post and nice Coupe ! Do you know if the impeller on the new pump will be plastic ? You might also want to go ahead and replace those old belts since you already got them off. Later.
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  #6  
Old 07-23-2013, 05:30 AM
kalali kalali is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonM View Post
What is the alternative on a part like the water pump? Wait until it fails?

No, no need to "wait" till it fails unless its a known failure-prone component or its along the way of repairing something else. Not here to argue but "preventive maintenance" means differently to different people. One could extend that logic to replacing every moving part at certain mileage. If I were tracking mine, I would rather replace the wheel bearings and steering components.
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Old 07-23-2013, 06:31 PM
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pal pal is offline
S54=Living on the Edge
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kalali View Post
No, no need to "wait" till it fails unless its a known failure-prone component or its along the way of repairing something else. Not here to argue but "preventive maintenance" means differently to different people. One could extend that logic to replacing every moving part at certain mileage. If I were tracking mine, I would rather replace the wheel bearings and steering components.
I have 80K miles on the car and about 82 track days on it so far. Its peak summer and track events keep coming I don't want my water pump failing after 10 laps on a 90+ degree day and warping my head or overheating and blowing up the motor.

Based on past experience, anything after 60K miles is usually a hit/miss with water pumps. We did it on my wife's GTI at 70K and the bearings were shot and the pump axis was freewheeling and skipping.

As you noted, this pump looks healthy but there was no way for me to know that without pulling it out.

I inspect all steering components before every event and have replace FCABs and RTABs recently as well.
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Texas Mile (March, 2010): 155.4 mph

Last edited by pal; 07-23-2013 at 06:33 PM.
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  #8  
Old 07-24-2013, 07:20 PM
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Finished the reinstall today and also replaced the coolant temp sensor on a hard coolant line on lower passenger side.




Old seals removed off the 2 coolant pipes. The top one goes into the thermostat housing and the bottom one into the water pump. I used some dish soap on the new o-rings to ensure they did not bind when slid.


Old and new pump. The old pump had a little side to side play compared to the new one when you grab the black pulley mounting disc and moved side to side. Nothing significant but the play could be an indicator of wear starting.



New water pump gasket and bolts.


New water pump, thermostat and o-rings on.


Thermostat housing on and bolts ready to be tightened down.


Put in 2 gallons of water/coolant mixture in, started engine and turned heat and fan to max. Hooked up OBD2 Elm Can cable and started to monitor coolant temp sensor via Rev on iPhone. In parallel I was bleeding air from the system using bleed screw on coolant bottle.


Just past 180F, the thermostat opened and the lower hose coming off the thermostat housing on the passenger side got hot.


Put everything back together and took car for a spin. No leaks after the drive or 2 hours after car sat so installed underside panel.
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Euro headers w/relocated sensors|RPI scoop|K&N panel filter|KW V3s|OEM Strut Brace|RE RSMs|Zeckhausen CDV|SpeedBleeders|Stoptech Brake Lines|StopTech 4-pot BBK all around|SSR GT2-H 19x8.5/19x10|Potenza RE-11s
Texas Mile (March, 2010): 155.4 mph
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