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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #126  
Old 07-23-2013, 10:58 AM
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16valex 16valex is offline
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John,


The only way you can mimic electric with clutch fan is to have PWP circuit installed to your electric fan to turn on at low speed at a lower temperature.

Although the clutch fan activate at 99C, it still does a decent job when not locked, it evacuates hot stagnant air in the shroud in hot day and heavy traffic jams.

For you to set your electric fan at 98C, I can guarantee you that it will never has a chance to kick on.

I set mine at 96C, as it is, it never turned on during the Winter and Fall. It does however kicks on once awhile in the Summer but only on those days where ambient temp is above 85F and at traffic light.

The bottom line what I try to say is to have it kick on at a lower temp helps cool the engine during those stop and go traffic and keep the A/C nice and cool too.

To set it ON at 98C is too high IMO.
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  #127  
Old 07-23-2013, 11:08 AM
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johnstern johnstern is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 16valex View Post
John,


The only way you can mimic electric with clutch fan is to have PWP circuit installed to your electric fan to turn on at low speed at a lower temperature.

Although the clutch fan activate at 99C, it still does a decent job when not locked, it evacuates hot stagnant air in the shroud in hot day and heavy traffic jams.

For you to set your electric fan at 98C, I can guarantee you that it will never has a chance to kick on.

I set mine at 96C, as it is, it never turned on during the Winter and Fall. It does however kicks on once awhile in the Summer but only on those days where ambient temp is above 85F and at traffic light.

The bottom line what I try to say is to have it kick on at a lower temp helps cool the engine during those stop and go traffic and keep the A/C nice and cool too.

To set it ON at 98C is too high IMO.
Yes Alex, That is very sound reasoning. I also think it's a better idea to have the fan come on more frequently for excercise-electric motors like to run, not sit still.

Edit: Your point about the mechanical fan removing stagnant air when not locked makes me want to build JimLev's resistor board mentioned earlier in this thread to let the electric fan turn very slowly in the Summer before it kicks in at full speed. I have all the parts so I should give it a try. That would keep the electric fan exercised too.

Last edited by johnstern; 07-23-2013 at 11:22 AM.
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  #128  
Old 07-23-2013, 11:17 AM
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16valex 16valex is offline
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Originally Posted by johnstern View Post
Yes Alex, That is very sound reasoning. I also think it's a better idea to have the fan come on more frequently for excercise-electric motors like to run, not sit still.
+1! Exactly!!
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  #129  
Old 07-23-2013, 07:33 PM
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hh3uunp hh3uunp is offline
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Fan clutch is reliable as hell. But I also went with a 2 stage zoinsville kit. But that's just because I like how it looks and it came with the kit.
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  #130  
Old 08-25-2013, 06:58 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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This question came up again today:
Quote:
Originally Posted by dragon6971 View Post
A question for someone who knows more than me. Is there a aftermarket kit or unit for replacing the clutch fan with a totally electric unit? I have been searching , but to no avail. Any help on this would be greatly appreciated..
See also:
- Mechanical fan delete DIY fan clutch to electrical fan (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7)
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See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #131  
Old 08-27-2013, 10:05 AM
mjmike93 mjmike93 is online now
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Mein Auto: 1997 BMW 540i
1997 540IA
165,000 miles

08/27/13: It's been over a month now and the coolant temperature has been perfect, right in the proper range and the fan has only come on high speed a couple of times. I will keep monitoring the coolant temp but I'm so glad I did this my mileage is up about 3 mpg in the past month and the power increase is quite noticeable. I must say that I made sure my electric fan was working perfect including installation of a new fan from Amazon.com (Depo 344-55005-200 Condenser Fan Assembly) before I started this Mod, so if your going to try this make sure the electric fan is working perfect, I also still have the mechanical fan and the wrench to install it in the trunk just incase.

07/21/13: Hi all, I recently had a chance to try something I've been thinking about since I first wanted to go to an electric fan and do away with my engine driven fan clutch fan.
The chance came as the heat waive in my area while I was of from work for a week. After a bit of fiddling with the wiring on my new stock electric fan to make sure it was up to spec I removed the engine driven fan.
1st test 95 deg F AC off car at idle it took almost 30 minutes for low speed fan to come on and temp needle never got above 50%.
2nd test 97 deg F AC off car at idle after low speed fan came on I removed low sp fan relay it took over 30 minutes for high speed fan to come on and temp needle never got above 50%. It was noisy but it only took about 3 minutes to go to low (I replaced the low sp relay) and another 2 minutes to stop fan completely.
3rd test 97 deg F AC on car at AC idle (700rpm) low speed fan on and temp needle never got above 50%.
4th test rest of the heat wave 4 days 95 f plus, hi humidity and mixed driving including many hi speed romps (can't help myself sometimes) still the needle never gets above 50% and fan only came up to medium a couple of times, I believe due to AC high pressure in traffic.
I'll keep updating, I'm not crazy I have the fan & fan clutch & tools to install it in the trunk.
I'll hook up my reader and even though it's cooler today than last week I'll be in traffic today as I'll be driving to JFK Airport at 3pm. that should be a great test.
Thanks for the input...
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  #132  
Old 09-22-2013, 06:00 PM
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johnstern johnstern is offline
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Besides removing the mechanical fan using Alex's method with parts bought from Summit Racing on my supercharged 2000 528iT, I also added JimLev's mod as diagrammed in post #83 of this thread. I bought the resistors and the relay from Digi-Key as listed in post #93. I bought 2 pieces of 1/4 inch thick aluminum 4 1/2" X 3 1/2" to mount all the parts on and to act as a heat sink for the resistors from Speedy Metals ($10). Here are some pics:http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/att...1&d=1379891900 2 plates one drilled, the other pre-drilled for my wife's car. http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/att...1&d=1379891900 Components layed out. Bought the toggle switch at the local hardware store.http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/att...1&d=1379891900 Test layout in the car.http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/att...1&d=1379891900 Testing resistors. I first used 2 20 ohm resistors and the fan did not run. Just moved a little and stopped. Then I used a 20 ohm and a 10 ohm-fan ran very slowly. Will get back to this later. Then I used 2 10 ohm resistors and the fan ran somewhere around 1/4 speed in my estimation. http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/att...1&d=1379891900
Final installation.

I also installed a new Wahler thermostat which raised the running temp of the coolant from 88C to 93C. I had been having problems with a rich running car and with the new thermostat my LTFT went from -7% to about -4%, a huge improvement. At first I ran the fan with 10 and 20 ohm resistors. The coolant temps remained steady at 93C-but the fan was moving too slow-not enough air flow to mimic the mechanical fan spinning without being "hooked up". So I changed the resistors to 2 10 ohm resistors. Now the fan had good air flow mimicking the mechanical fan spinning but not "hooked up", was completely silent, and the coolant temps remained steady. That is how I'm running the car now.

When the car is not moving and the coolant temp goes to 96C, the electric fan runs at full speed for about 50 seconds max.

BTW-I used liquid electrical tape on all my solder joints, on the connections to the relay and on the toggle switch body to make it moisture resistant.

Sorry I'm so bad at attaching pictures.

I really like this setup. JimLev's mod keeps the coolant temps very steady. When the electric fan switches to full speed, I can feel it through a vibration in the steering wheel. This is a good thing as I know the fan is working correctly.
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Last edited by johnstern; 09-22-2013 at 06:12 PM.
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  #133  
Old 09-22-2013, 07:20 PM
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16valex 16valex is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnstern View Post
Besides removing the mechanical fan using Alex's method with parts bought from Summit Racing on my supercharged 2000 528iT, I also added JimLev's mod as diagrammed in post #83 of this thread. I bought the resistors and the relay from Digi-Key as listed in post #93. I bought 2 pieces of 1/4 inch thick aluminum 4 1/2" X 3 1/2" to mount all the parts on and to act as a heat sink for the resistors from Speedy Metals ($10). Here are some pics:http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/att...1&d=1379891900 2 plates one drilled, the other pre-drilled for my wife's car. http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/att...1&d=1379891900 Components layed out. Bought the toggle switch at the local hardware store.http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/att...1&d=1379891900 Test layout in the car.http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/att...1&d=1379891900 Testing resistors. I first used 2 20 ohm resistors and the fan did not run. Just moved a little and stopped. Then I used a 20 ohm and a 10 ohm-fan ran very slowly. Will get back to this later. Then I used 2 10 ohm resistors and the fan ran somewhere around 1/4 speed in my estimation. http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/att...1&d=1379891900
Final installation.

I also installed a new Wahler thermostat which raised the running temp of the coolant from 88C to 93C. I had been having problems with a rich running car and with the new thermostat my LTFT went from -7% to about -4%, a huge improvement. At first I ran the fan with 10 and 20 ohm resistors. The coolant temps remained steady at 93C-but the fan was moving too slow-not enough air flow to mimic the mechanical fan spinning without being "hooked up". So I changed the resistors to 2 10 ohm resistors. Now the fan had good air flow mimicking the mechanical fan spinning but not "hooked up", was completely silent, and the coolant temps remained steady. That is how I'm running the car now.

When the car is not moving and the coolant temp goes to 96C, the electric fan runs at full speed for about 50 seconds max.

BTW-I used liquid electrical tape on all my solder joints, on the connections to the relay and on the toggle switch body to make it moisture resistant.

Sorry I'm so bad at attaching pictures.

I really like this setup. JimLev's mod keeps the coolant temps very steady. When the electric fan switches to full speed, I can feel it through a vibration in the steering wheel. This is a good thing as I know the fan is working correctly.
John, congrats bud! I'm so envy of you. That's interesting find about your LTFT percent drops with new thermostat. Maybe this is also my problem too, I may have to change my thermostat one more time because my cooling hasn't seen 91C in a couple of years..

Thank you for postings all the parts, I'll probably going to need them to do Jim's mod. Thanks again.
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  #134  
Old 09-22-2013, 07:40 PM
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johnstern johnstern is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 16valex View Post
John, congrats bud! I'm so envy of you. That's interesting find about your LTFT percent drops with new thermostat. Maybe this is also my problem too, I may have to change my thermostat one more time because my cooling hasn't seen 91C in a couple of years..

Thank you for postings all the parts, I'll probably going to need them to do Jim's mod. Thanks again.
Thanks Alex. I think you should replace your thermostat too. A constant 88C is no good for our cars. I have to hook up the scanner again to observe long and short term fuel trim after my recent trip downeast-about 400 miles. I'll let you know but I can say that the car seemed to run flawless. We shall see!!!!

BTW-The thermostat I removed was the original one from the factory. 45K on the car. Not a very long thermostat life. Darn those bean counters!!!!!
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  #135  
Old 09-23-2013, 05:51 AM
JimLev JimLev is offline
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John, thanks for the update. I was wondering if you had ever finished this mod. Glad to see you did it.
Keeping some air movement under the hood also helps push out engine heat, especially if you have a V8 under the hood.
Hope to meet up with you and your car at the BAV Show&Shine in a few weeks.

Alex, your next for this mod, what are you waiting for?
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  #136  
Old 09-23-2013, 08:48 AM
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16valex 16valex is offline
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Quote:
Alex, your next for this mod, what are you waiting for?
I have a long list, and this one is still a long way to go.
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  #137  
Old 09-23-2013, 06:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
John, thanks for the update. I was wondering if you had ever finished this mod. Glad to see you did it.
Keeping some air movement under the hood also helps push out engine heat, especially if you have a V8 under the hood.
Hope to meet up with you and your car at the BAV Show&Shine in a few weeks.

Alex, your next for this mod, what are you waiting for?
Thank you, Jim for a great mod. Not very expensive and works great. Just FYI, I used my Ratek to take temperature readings of the aluminum heat sink/circuit board after running the car for a while and found that the surrounding surfaces were about 120F and the board was 140F. I also used a silicone paste (the white stuff you see in some of the pictures) smeared on the bottom of the resistors to enhance heat transfer.

Bottom line is that the rig works great.

Thanks again and looking forward to meeting at Bavarian. I should be there sometime in the PM.
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  #138  
Old 09-23-2013, 06:37 PM
dvsgene dvsgene is offline
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Thanks John for the detailed amendments to two other great installation write ups.

Been meaning to install the Ford Taurus fan I got that pulls some serious air using this write-up but since fall is just around the corner, I guess it will be on my spring or summer to do list for 2014.

Bookmarked for future reference,
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  #139  
Old 09-23-2013, 06:58 PM
Schitzo Schitzo is offline
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Looks good John and you did it just in time for winter
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  #140  
Old 09-23-2013, 07:08 PM
JimLev JimLev is offline
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John, I almost asked you if you measured the temp of the heatsink. The white paste works well.
See you at BAV, call my cell when you get there.

Last edited by JimLev; 09-23-2013 at 07:14 PM. Reason: Typo
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  #141  
Old 09-23-2013, 07:13 PM
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16valex 16valex is offline
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Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
John, I almost sake you if you measured the temp of the heatsink. The white paste works well.
See you at BAV, call my cell when you get there.
What is this? the Elites secret meet?
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  #142  
Old 09-23-2013, 07:15 PM
JimLev JimLev is offline
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Alex, damn auto correction on the iPad got me. I fixed it.
BAV Show&Shine, you coming? Geezer wil be there.

Last edited by JimLev; 09-23-2013 at 07:20 PM.
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  #143  
Old 09-23-2013, 07:48 PM
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16valex 16valex is offline
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Alex, damn auto correction on the iPad got me. I fixed it.
BAV Show&Shine, you coming? Geezer wil be there.
Jim, Just busting your chop for a minute. He he, it's all good. I will try to be there next year. Wish I could be there though. It would be fun I bet.
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  #144  
Old 05-10-2014, 05:38 PM
van556 van556 is offline
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If do choose to convert to electric fan conversion would also it makes sense to remove the front mounted AC electric fan from the factory? Could I just left the wiring of the AC fan alone or somehow wire it to the new electric fan?
Remove the AC fan would surely give it more air flow; the new E60 and up that has OEM electric fan has no AC electric fan up front.
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  #145  
Old 05-10-2014, 09:41 PM
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16valex 16valex is offline
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Originally Posted by van556 View Post
If do choose to convert to electric fan conversion would also it makes sense to remove the front mounted AC electric fan from the factory? Could I just left the wiring of the AC fan alone or somehow wire it to the new electric fan?
Remove the AC fan would surely give it more air flow; the new E60 and up that has OEM electric fan has no AC electric fan up front.
No, I wouldn't remove the A/C aux fan. The aux fan is there to keep you cool on those hot days while stuck in traffic.
Yes, leave the A/C fan wire alone.
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  #146  
Old 05-11-2014, 05:10 AM
JimLev JimLev is offline
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Right, don't remove the AC fan. Not a good idea.

Alex, how's your 3 month "vacation" going?
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  #147  
Old 05-11-2014, 08:55 AM
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16valex 16valex is offline
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Right, don't remove the AC fan. Not a good idea.

Alex, how's your 3 month "vacation" going?
Jim, it went well. Wish I had the Mrs with me but such life, you can't always get what you want. Maybe next time..

Jim, any chance for another get together in the near future? And, thank you for asking BTW..
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  #148  
Old 05-11-2014, 04:29 PM
JimLev JimLev is offline
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Alex, when and where?
I suspect you don't want to drive all the way to Boston.
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  #149  
Old 05-11-2014, 08:59 PM
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16valex 16valex is offline
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Alex, when and where?
I suspect you don't want to drive all the way to Boston.
Yeah, Boston is a nice town but man it's far. I was hoping some where around Springfield Hartford area or even Worcester and Sturbridge, anytime in June or July will be okay with me.
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  #150  
Old 05-12-2014, 03:43 AM
JimLev JimLev is offline
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Sturbridge or Springfield would work for me.
We should get other E39 guys to show up too.
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