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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 3 Series / 4 Series > E36 (1991 - 1999)

E36 (1991 - 1999)
The E36 chassis 3-Series BMW was a huge hit among driving enthusiasts from the first moment the car hit the pavement. The E36 won numerous awards over the years it was produced and is still a favorite of many BMW enthusiasts to this day! -- View the E36 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 07-24-2013, 02:08 PM
Blanche Blanche is offline
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Q from novice doing brakes this weekend

My brother and I are changing the front brake pads and rotors this weekend. He's never worked on a BMW before so he wanted me to ask if there will be any special BMW tools needed for the job.

Thanks!
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  #2  
Old 07-24-2013, 04:35 PM
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Big ass breaker bars help. I use the upper handle of my hydraulic jack. It fits over most of my tools and gives extra leverage.
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Old 07-24-2013, 06:06 PM
Blanche Blanche is offline
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My brother told me that he has all of that, so we're good! Thanks guys.
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Old 07-24-2013, 07:16 PM
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Old 07-27-2013, 09:42 AM
Blanche Blanche is offline
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The passenger side screw that secures rotor to hub (T40 bit) appears to be stripped. Any suggestions?
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Old 07-27-2013, 10:54 AM
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Get a drill bit that's about the size of the head of the screw and drill the head off of it. Once you've done that you'll be able to get the rotor off. The remaining shank will be sticking out of the hub and you can put some penetrating oil (PB Blaster or CRC) on the threads and try vise grips to get the remainder out. If you can't get the remaining shank out it's no big deal. The screw is just a convenience part to hold the rotor in place when the wheel is off. It serves no function when the wheel is bolted onto the hub. Generally the rotor stays in place pretty well without it since there's a tight fit between the rotor and the hub.
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Old 07-27-2013, 11:06 AM
Blanche Blanche is offline
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Thanks a ton!
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Old 07-27-2013, 11:14 AM
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Any time! Once you get the rotor screws out the next thing you may run into is the rotors being stuck to the hub. If that's the case just use a hammer (mini sledge works best) on the back side of the rotor to break it loose. Whack it and turn the rotor a bit, whack it and turn the rotor a bit, whack it, turn the rotor.....you get the idea. Fortunately since you've got new rotors you don't have to worry about dinging up the braking surface.....

Also, make certain the caliper piston is pushed fully back into the caliper before you reassemble everything. A C-clamp works great for this. Just use caution not to pinch the rubber piston boot on the inside of the caliper.
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Old 07-27-2013, 11:22 AM
imp.the.dimp imp.the.dimp is offline
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Q from novice doing brakes this weekend

To prevent stripping that screw in the future make sure to insert the torx bit firmly and use penetrating fluid. If it doesn't feel like its going to break, don't force it. Use more penetrating fluid or even a torch. I've Gould the best penetrating fluid around is old ATF mixed with acetone.


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Old 07-27-2013, 11:29 AM
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I've never had the rotors off my car, so I've always feared that I'll be in this situation when the time comes, too. Seems like a pretty silly feature to have. It's not like rotors just fall off cars when the wheels are removed anyway.
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Old 07-27-2013, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by ZeGerman View Post
I've never had the rotors off my car, so I've always feared that I'll be in this situation when the time comes, too. Seems like a pretty silly feature to have. It's not like rotors just fall off cars when the wheels are removed anyway.
I'm thinking it was strictly a production aid. Wheels and tires are the last thing installed on the car at the end of the production line and they may have wanted that screw to hold the rotor in place from the point on the production line where the rotors were installed to the point where the wheels were mounted.
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Old 07-28-2013, 08:59 PM
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Wheels off, anti rattle clip off with a screwdriver.
Undo the 6mm allen key holding the disc to the hub, then the 2x 7mm allen keys supporting the caliper to the carrier.

Remove pads and cable tie caliper to suspension spring to reduce stress on the flexi hose.
Then undo the 16mm bolts securing the carrier, remove disk (few hammer taps if need be).

Push the piston back with a bar (brake fluid cap off!).

Then your ready to fit the new..
I always copper grease bolts.

Last edited by shane12345; 07-28-2013 at 09:00 PM.
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