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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #51  
Old 12-27-2012, 06:05 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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For the visual record, here's a huge hole reported today in the throttle boot:
- > E39 (1997 - 2003) > More trouble codes....
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  #52  
Old 01-22-2013, 07:16 PM
log-on log-on is offline
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I have an e39 with bad mis firing under load, specfically between 1500 -2500 revs, above that its fine.

obviously a pain in the ....

i want to buy some gear to diagnose the codes and see if i can see what cylinder the problem is in.

i bought an ELM327 bluetooth OBD2 on ebay just now, i was told i would need the other round connection, i forget the name of it. as i was told the OBD2 will not read all codes, ie DME stuff.

I have a 1999 e39 2L

any ideas what would be good to get and cheap? im a bit of a geek so ideally not a reader as i want to use my pc.

Thanks
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  #53  
Old 01-22-2013, 07:40 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by log-on View Post
im a bit of a geek so ideally not a reader as i want to use my pc.
Why not use the same software the BMW dealer used when the car was new?
- Making sense of the most often recommended BMW diagnostic tools & cable interfaces such as INPA, EDIABAS, NCS Expert, DIS, EasyDIS, & Progman (1)
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  #54  
Old 01-22-2013, 07:51 PM
log-on log-on is offline
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I dont know what the software is lol ? i was just worring about getting the right connections and download IPNA or something? still researching to be done but just wanted to buy the right gear first
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  #55  
Old 02-20-2013, 06:29 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by log-on View Post
I dont know what the software is lol ? i was just worring about getting the right connections and download IPNA or something? still researching to be done but just wanted to buy the right gear first
Well, AFAIK, you can not do better than to read that first post of that thread I just pointed you to. A lot of us put many hours (yes, many hours) into that first post (we edited it for two months, until it locked up so that you'd have all you need).

It doesn't get any simpler than that first post.

Anyway, to help others find a lean condition misfire, below is a writeup that I posted recently to the E46 forum to answer a question as to how I diagnosed "my" lean condition misfires.

I think posting it here is apropos because it shows someone with similar codes what the culprits might be, in pictures, from start to finish.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 01e46sprt View Post
Bluebee.... By doing the smoke test did that reveal a leak in the intake boot ? I have p0171 code and did a smoke test didn't come up with any leak.
Here's my story ...

I started with this:
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
For the record, the DTC & pending code order has been rather consistent.

I drove for a few days, without clearing the codes, and this is what I read two days ago, in this order:

Note that some codes (e.g., P0313) are both thrown & pending:
  • DTC:
    • P0313 BMW 238 to BMW 243 inclusive, Misfire Detected with Low Fuel
    • P0300 BMW 62 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
    • P1353 BMW 243, Misfire Cylinder 6 with Fuel Cut-Off
    • P1083 BMW 202, Fuel Control Limit Mixture Too Lean (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
    • P1085 BMW 203, Fuel Control Limit Mixture Too Lean (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
    • P1351 BMW 242, Misfire Cylinder 5 with Fuel Cut-Off
    • P0171 BMW 227, System Too Lean (Bank 1)
    • P0174 BMW 228, System Too Lean (Bank 2)
  • PENDING:
    • P0313 BMW 238 to BMW 243 inclusive, Misfire Detected with Low Fuel
    • P0300 BMW 62 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
After clearing the codes, and driving for a while, the following occurred in this order yesterday:
  • DTC:
    • P0171 BMW 227, System Too Lean (Bank 1)
    • P0174 BMW 228, System Too Lean (Bank 2)
  • PENDING
    • P1083 BMW 202, Fuel Control Limit Mixture Too Lean (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
    • P1085 BMW 203, Fuel Control Limit Mixture Too Lean (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
Again, after clearing them and driving for about twenty miles, the following occurred today, in this order:
  • DTC:
    • P0313 BMW 238 to BMW 243 inclusive, Misfire Detected with Low Fuel
    • P1085 BMW 203, Fuel Control Limit Mixture Too Lean (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
  • PENDING:
    • P0313 BMW 238 to BMW 243 inclusive, Misfire Detected with Low Fuel
    • P1083 BMW 202, Fuel Control Limit Mixture Too Lean (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
    • P0171 BMW 227, System Too Lean (Bank 1)
    • P0174 BMW 228, System Too Lean (Bank 2)
Clearing yet again, and driving for a dozen additional miles, I found, in this order when I shut the engine down to look for vacuum leaks:
  • DTC
    • P0313 BMW 238 to BMW 243 inclusive, Misfire Detected with Low Fuel
    • P1085 BMW 203, Fuel Control Limit Mixture Too Lean (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
    • P0171 BMW 227, System Too Lean (Bank 1)
    • P0174 BMW 228, System Too Lean (Bank 2)
  • PENDING
    • P0313 BMW 238 to BMW 243 inclusive, Misfire Detected with Low Fuel
    • P1083 BMW 202, Fuel Control Limit Mixture Too Lean (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
Given that ... it took me a year to find all the vacuum leaks (elapsed time) so I only ran the final smoke test in desperation to pass my smog inspection.

The first thing I did when I got the non-specific lean-condition codes was buy a scanner I could keep in my glovebox to keep track of pending codes:
Note: This screenshot below is probably of the fifth similar scanner I've bought because I love mine so much I give these away as gifts!


Knowing the BEST diagnostic tool of all is my eyes, the next thing I did was inspect all the vacuum hoses I could "see", and I ended up replacing all of them topside (e.g., the F-connector hoses and the SAP hoses and endcaps).

The endcaps are important, because they almost ALWAYS develop cracks, and, you should get metric ones to fit right (ask me how I know).



I don't think it was related, but I also found & replaced crumbly SAS hoses in the visual inspection process.


Then I tested the CCV, which, as you can imagine, is not as simple as it should be.


Then I tested the DISA, which, again, isn't as obvious as we'd like it to be.


Then I ran the classic carb spray trick, which, for an intermittent small vacuum leak, I find wholly useless, as I couldn't hear the engine change speeds - so that was a waste of time and cleanup effort.


I then borrowed the free Autozone fuel system tester for three months - but the fuel system was fine ...


(although I did learn where they hide the M54 Schrader valve).


Finally, I ran the smoke test, which found that the CCV hose connected to the oil dipstick was cracked in the classic place that it cracks open in all older M54 engines (before the newly redesigned hose came out) - and I replaced it with the newly designed hose.


In that process, I found my oil dipstick drain tube wholly clogged shut!


That's when I found the elbow cracks. Replacing the $25 elbow solved the final persistent vacuum leaks.

Then, I made sure I drove the California (aka Los Angeles 92) version of the FTP and doublechecked with the scanner that all registers were full.


And, finally, I took my bimmer for inspection (which, by law, had to be to an inspection-only station):


(and passed with flying colors).



So, in hindsight, the problem was that there were MULTIPLE causes for the vacuum leaks, some of which worsened over the year while I was diagnosing the problem.

My recommendation?
a) Run a professional smoke test ... or ...
b) Use that $150 to inspect & replace all the common culprits!

BTW, as you probably know by now, every repair by every user SHOULD result in added value to the database, so, these threads were just some of the indirect results of my quest to find the source of vacuum leaks.

- How to locate all problematic (between 1/8" & 9/32" ID) 3.5x1.8mm, 3.3x1.8mm & (between 17/64" & 9/32" ID) 7mm ID vacuum tubing (single material), vacuum hoses (multiple material), 3.3mm OD curved vacuum pipes (rigid tubes), 3.5mm & 7mm ID vacuum endcaps (closed end) & 7x3mm manifold o-rings (1) & 7.52X3.52mm and 9.2X2.8mm fuel injection o-rings (1) & gaskets (1) on the M54 engine & where in the USA to get new vacuum tubing & vacuum caps (1) & what SAE sizes to get for all the metric M54 engine vacuum tubes, hoses, pipes, and caps (1) & correcting the F-connector errors in the realoem diagrams (1) & finding the ends of hard-to-locate vacuum tubes (1) & sorely needed clarification on how the M54 CCV vacuum port works on the M52 CCV valve connection to the fuel pressure regulator connection (1) & how to make, borrow, or buy lean-condition misfire test tools to test for vacuum leaks & lean conditions (1) (2)

- Where to get a proper DISA valve repair kit (1) & how some jury-rig 'repair' a rattling DISA unit (1) (2) (3) & how the DISA valve operates (0) (1) (2) (3) (4) & how to test DISA operation (0) (1) (2) (3) (4) & a simple DIY to install an M54 DISA (1) & a nice DISA autopsy (1) (2) & a great DISA group buy (1) & how the disa valve o-ring fails (1) (2) & how it can reputedly cause all sorts of cold-engine rough idle problems (1) (2) & where to get just the DISA valve o-ring (1) & why you want to check the DISA at 100K miles or whenever the airbox is removed (1) (2) & why the DIfferenzierte SAuganlage ("Differential Air Intake") valve flap breaks (1), sometimes with parts sucked into the intake manifold (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) & a well documented example of how a broken DISA flap can ruin your engine (1) & yet another seemingly complex set of misfire codes reputedly traced to a broken DISA valve (1)

- How does the E39 fuel injection work (1) & what are the most often recommended fuel pump & fuel filter brands (1) (2) & a DIY for replacing the fuel filter (0) (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) & a quick test for fuel pump operation (1) (2) and a DIY for replacing the fuel pump (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) & how to replace and service your BMW E39 fuel injectors (1) & details on replacing the 7.52X3.52mm and 9.2X2.8mm fuel injector o-rings (1) & the location of the K96 fuel pump relay (1) & where is the fuel system pressure test Schrader valve for the I6 (1) & where is the fuel pressure test point for the V8 (1) (2) (3) & where is the location of the fuel pump relay K96 (1) & cleaning (1) (2) & replacing the fuel sensor (1) & resolving blown fuses due to a stuck fuel filler door solenoid (1) & engine fuel & octane (1) & The Gasoline FAQ & top-tier gas stations (1) & how large is the fuel tank and reserve in the E39 (1) & what gasoline to use (1) & how much gas should be left to cool the fuel pump (1) & how to siphon the fuel out of the tank (1) & does spilled gasoline go into the charcoal canister (1) & how to replace the gas cap tether (1) & a reputed fuel filler leak into the trunk (1) & the P0455 diagnostic trouble code when the gas cap is missing (1) & what is the cost differential between 87 & 91 octane AKI (1) & what gasoline mileage should an E39 get (0) (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) & the truth about mpg calculation accuracy (1) (2) & E39 great mpg stories (1) (2) (3) & E39 awful fuel mileage issues (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) (9) (10) (11) (12) (13) (14) (15) (16) (17) (18) (19) (20) (21) (22) (23) (24) (25) (26) (27) (28) (29) (30).

- How to test the crankcase ventilation (aka CCV, CVV, PCV, CPV, & OSV) pressure regulating valve system (1) & a video of oil separator quacking chubacca noise (1) & vacuum leaks due to holes in one or more of the five CCV hoses (1) (2) (3) or frozen or torn diaphragms (1) & a clogged CCV (1) causing pressure in the crankcase and smoke in the exhaust necessitating CCV system overhaul (BavAuto M54, M54,M54,M54,M54, & M54 observations) (M52,M52) (M52TU) (M62,M62) ('99 528i) ('98 528i); usually replaced with the insulated CCV upgrade (1) & sorely needed clarification on how the M54 CCV vacuum port works on the M52 CCV valve connection to the fuel pressure regulator connection (1) & how to do a CCV delete (1)

Most of this was summarized in this thread:
- How to diagnose a M54 engine misfire (1) & a cold-engine intermittent misfire (1) & what you can expect for your smog emissions test results (1)

DISCLAIMER:
[I don't know anything about my M54 engine. When it breaks, I simply research how to diagnose & fix it.
I read; I try to understand; I ask questions; and I snap pictures (all the photos and screenshots below are mine).
I don't generally "throw parts" at a problem, and I fully test a suspected part before replacing it, so I had a LOT of research to perform.
Probably two dozen (or more) threads were involved in this quest to understand and solve persistent & intermittent BMW M54 engine vacuum leaks, and then I always try to add value to the forum so the NEXT person doesn't have to go through the same learning process. They start where we left off, and they're expected to improve the process where needed.
Given that, please consider this summary, from my memory, the short version of the diagnostic procedure I followed at the time (the longer version being in the thread record).]
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  #56  
Old 03-08-2013, 07:20 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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For those diagnosing vacuum leak lean condition misfires, double check the intake boot!
Quote:
Originally Posted by jvest2000 View Post
My obvious culprit was like Bluebee pointed out above: the INTAKE BOOT. The small off shoot tube was cracked in several places. I taped it until I can get a replacement

EDIT:
Here is a thread, on another forum, which shows the throttle body gasket leaking, which was found by using the classic carburetor spray test.
- Update on the M62 vacuum leak diagnostic test
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Last edited by bluebee; 08-16-2014 at 01:30 PM.
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  #57  
Old 03-19-2013, 01:16 AM
Beamer525i Beamer525i is offline
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Hi guys I am new to this forum and a new BMW owner, I recently purchased a second hand BMW 525i with a crack in the block, I found a very good clean second hand engine and fitted it last week, wow it's easier than it looks !

I have an issue since the day after start up and symptoms are pointing to an air leak but after a week I still can not find anything so here's my story in hopes you can help as I've used this thread as the bible for this random misfire so far

I do not get any DTC's unless I unplug a sensor or coil while the engine is running, I replaced all six coil packs and spark plugs, what the car does is she misses on one or more cylinders randomly and then smoothes out again, this morning she was missing on cylinders 1 and 6, so I unplugged the coils and put them in cylinders 2 and 3, started up again and the first 30 seconds or so she was smooth and then she started missing again only to find the misfire on cylinder 4 ? I believe the DISA valves give troubles as per the first page of this thread and found mine to be broken, I replaced it and yet the problem is the same, I have sprayed 3 cans of carb cleaner around the entire intake and cannot source a leak but I am sure there is one there, I was quite hopeful to find my dipstick tube blocked or something similar

I was hoping some of you experienced guys could point me in the direction I am obviously failing to see or over looking

Many thanks in advance
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  #58  
Old 03-25-2013, 12:27 AM
Beamer525i Beamer525i is offline
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this weekend was a long weekend where i am so i decided to pull the intake manifold off and double check for leaks or broken pipes etc, i found nothing that i could put my finger on, assembled up and started her again only to have the same problem, any ideas for me please ?
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  #59  
Old 03-27-2013, 09:57 PM
Beamer525i Beamer525i is offline
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okay so after many days of searching and pulling my hair out the car finally spat out 2 fault codes for me

202 P0170 Fuel trim (Bank 1),
O2 control limit
DME internal
values logical
Controller for lambda is too long
beyond a min. or a max.

and

203 P0173 Fuel Trim (Bank 2),
O2 control limit
DME internal
values logical
Controller for lambda is too long
beyond a min. or a max

so in my head it means i have a fuel trim issue on both banks, which is highly unlikely so i unplugged both upstream O2 sensors swopped them around and just like that issue was resolved, it made sense to put them where i did as there are the two O2 sensors wires coming out the harness, one is longer than the other, so the longer cord i fitted to bank 1 O2 sensor and the shorter one i obviously fitted to bank 2 O2 sensor, seems my thinking was incorrect

all that i did to try rectify this issue was

6 x coil packs
another new fuel filter
fuel pump
disa valve
cleared all adaptations and learned values ( i did this again after the "fix")
many hours of google and plenty of brick walls from so called "pro's" who charge diagnostic fees and dont really know what they doing

i hope this can help someone else so they dont have to spend the amount of money and time i did on a stupid unforseen error

Last edited by Beamer525i; 03-27-2013 at 09:59 PM.
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  #60  
Old 03-31-2013, 11:10 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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This E46-related thread covers the common causes of cold-weather misfires (with lots of pictures) in great detail:
- Cold weather misfires and CEL, common issues $50 fix!

This information may be useful for those with cylinder 1 misfires on the M54 engine:
Quote:
Originally Posted by smolck View Post
misfire on cylinder 1 is common when you have a fuel issue. I is the farthest away from the pump and therefore the one that misfires when fuel delivery is compromised.
EDIT: This question and answer may prove instructive to those trying to debug their misfires:
Quote:
Originally Posted by EconoBox View Post
In your experience, if you had to diagnose blind, what are the most common causes of a misfire?
  1. Smoke test (Intake boot leak, Vacuum line leak, Intake Manifold Gasket)
  2. CCV
  3. MAF
  4. O2 sensor
  5. Spark Plug
  6. Spark Plug Boot
  7. Coil (swap coil to test)
  8. Camshaft position sensor
  9. Crank position sensor
  10. Fuel Pump
  11. Idle Control Valve (ICV)
  12. Oil in spark plug sockets from leaking VCG
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
Whom are you asking that question of?

If it was directed at me, I'd take the traditional approach, which is to note that an engine will run if it has the proper (1) gas, (2) air, (3) spark, (4) compression, and (5) timing.

Most of the time, it's the combination of the first two that is out of proportion (i.e., the air:fuel ratio isn't 14:1).

On the E39, anecdotally, I'd say the fuel:air ratio (which is a combination of 1 & 2), is the most common cause of a misfire. Classic reasons for that could be anything that causes a vacuum leak (some people make a distinction with unmetered air entering the system).

Less commonly, a classic case of a bad air:fuel ratio would be something in the fuel delivery system (e.g., fuel pump, injectors, filter, etc.).

A distant second cause of misfires, I would say, based on my rendition of the anecdotal data, would be lack of spark. The classic cause is a bad coil - but a few other causes are known (such as oil fouling the plugs or bad wiring).

I'd lump all other causes that are not the first two as less likely.
See also:
- How to locate all the vacuum hoses in the E39 engine bay (1)
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Last edited by bluebee; 08-16-2014 at 01:24 PM.
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  #61  
Old 04-28-2013, 09:59 AM
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Yet another M54 misfire traced to torn boots posted today over here.
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  #62  
Old 08-28-2013, 02:30 PM
MrE39T MrE39T is offline
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Misfire

Quote:
Originally Posted by TDS View Post
Bluebee, thanks for doing this! I have a misfire on our 03 540 that i am currently dealing with. SES first pointed to O2 which I replaced, then it pointed to #3 cylinder misfire AND multi cylinder misfire. I cleaned MAF, replaced all plugs and cylinder #3 coil/boot, car runs "better" but misfire still happens when "I put my foot into it"; I cleared the code and it has since stayed off but the misfire still occurs. I think my next step will be to replace the remaining coils unless anyone has another suggestion ????????

BTW - will a failing Camshaft Position Sensor throw a code ?
I do have a great recommendation, I have yet to see a 540 that doesn't need the seals replaced in the throttle body. Every time we get a 540 with misfire, if it has over 100,000 miles, first thing is to replace throttle body seal/seals, almost every time problem is solved. Also the computer might be coding O2 problems, misfire, but after a seal change it is back to normal. I think on all the cars I have worked on, the only one needing a new coil was obvious it needed a new coil (not a light misfire but obvious lop at most power settings) and had over 175.000 miles. BMW 540 engines--seals, they go together.
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  #63  
Old 08-28-2013, 04:17 PM
HTK12 HTK12 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrE39T View Post
I do have a great recommendation, I have yet to see a 540 that doesn't need the seals replaced in the throttle body. Every time we get a 540 with misfire, if it has over 100,000 miles, first thing is to replace throttle body seal/seals, almost every time problem is solved. Also the computer might be coding O2 problems, misfire, but after a seal change it is back to normal. I think on all the cars I have worked on, the only one needing a new coil was obvious it needed a new coil (not a light misfire but obvious lop at most power settings) and had over 175.000 miles. BMW 540 engines--seals, they go together.
To which seals are you referring to?



Parts 2 & 8?



Part 2?
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  #64  
Old 08-28-2013, 04:56 PM
MrE39T MrE39T is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HTK12 View Post
To which seals are you referring to?



Parts 2 & 8?



Part 2?
Yes, part #2. The seal behind throttle body is the usual one. Sometimes you may find the throttle body loose also, do to this seal deteriorating. What happens is the MAF sensor in your first thread is measuring all air entering into throttle body but not the air leaking in from seal. This extra air is picked up down stream after combustion and coded as a "lean" bit or during combustion the chug of the intake causes one of the cylinders to get too much and hence a misfire is codded. Either way, this is the number one cause we have found, there is occasionally a leaky valve cover which causes oil to get into sparkplug hole and rob the spark, again coded as misfire but coils and spark plug, especially original BMW, no, because when they go, you don't wonder if its a coil, you know. Without seeing other properties of the engine that is my best answer. The BMW 4.4L keeps temps under hood very high so I always scrutinize vacuum hoses first thing, once I am assured nothing visible I immediately go to throttle body seal. Hope that helps
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  #65  
Old 08-28-2013, 05:21 PM
HTK12 HTK12 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrE39T View Post
Yes, part #2. The seal behind throttle body is the usual one. Sometimes you may find the throttle body loose also, do to this seal deteriorating. What happens is the MAF sensor in your first thread is measuring all air entering into throttle body but not the air leaking in from seal. This extra air is picked up down stream after combustion and coded as a "lean" bit or during combustion the chug of the intake causes one of the cylinders to get too much and hence a misfire is codded. Either way, this is the number one cause we have found, there is occasionally a leaky valve cover which causes oil to get into sparkplug hole and rob the spark, again coded as misfire but coils and spark plug, especially original BMW, no, because when they go, you don't wonder if its a coil, you know. Without seeing other properties of the engine that is my best answer. The BMW 4.4L keeps temps under hood very high so I always scrutinize vacuum hoses first thing, once I am assured nothing visible I immediately go to throttle body seal. Hope that helps
Thanks, I don't have a missfire or lean running, but I always like to check common failure items and replace when needed. Our cars are getting on a bit so some preventive TLC is needed to keep them running.
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  #66  
Old 08-28-2013, 06:21 PM
MrE39T MrE39T is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HTK12 View Post
Thanks, I don't have a missfire or lean running, but I always like to check common failure items and replace when needed. Our cars are getting on a bit so some preventive TLC is needed to keep them running.
I would replace this seal at 130,000-140,000 regardless. It is an INEXPENSIVE part, really, and QUICK-EASY-To-DO plus you can make sure all intake after MAF sensor it tight and secure possibly alleviating any "wonderfire" for a long time.
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  #67  
Old 08-29-2013, 03:49 PM
HTK12 HTK12 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrE39T View Post
I would replace this seal at 130,000-140,000 regardless. It is an INEXPENSIVE part, really, and QUICK-EASY-To-DO plus you can make sure all intake after MAF sensor it tight and secure possibly alleviating any "wonderfire" for a long time.
I'll order one with the next part order. I made one part order this week so I can't get it to this order. Ohh well there's always something you'll need so I doubt it will be too long before making another order. I order the parts online, because my local dealers rip you off. Part prices are about x2 compared to online prices.
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Old 10-05-2013, 01:16 AM
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I don't know specifically how diagnostics are different for the V8, but, I would request that v8 owners update this thread so that others with the 540i benefit from your knowledge.

To that end, this was posted today:
Quote:
Originally Posted by dannydoo View Post
Bluebee is there a 8cyl thread like that. Awsome job man!! Gave me 3 extra ideas. AND i did not know THE COMPUTER SHUTS OFF THE SPARK TO THE CYLINDER NEXT TO the actual one that is misfiring. Now that has me really in a spin thinking about things. IF Im getting a misfire on 2 always. I mean I reset it 30ish times ...IT COULD BE cyl 3 or 1 that actually has the problem?
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Old 10-05-2013, 01:21 AM
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BTW, I don't think the adjacent injector is shut off.

What is meant by the "nearby" injector is a subtle acknowledgement that the cylinder itself doesn't have an injector (since the injector is actually in the manifold).

So, perhaps instead of saying this:
"Misfire occurs more than once/200 revolutions in one cylinder, so that DME cuts off fuel for that cylinder's nearby injector;"

We probably should have said something like this:
Misfire occurs more than once/200 revolutions in one cylinder, so that DME cuts off fuel for that cylinder's nearest injector;"
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Old 10-05-2013, 06:27 PM
MrE39T MrE39T is offline
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Bluebee is correct, it should instead read as he said in second line. The first line would give to easy misinterpretation. It will be very noticeable when the computer chops the injector, much more so than just a misfire, especially the 4.4L because it is tuned so well.
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Old 10-05-2013, 06:44 PM
MrE39T MrE39T is offline
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Crankcase ventilation

I noticed after reading the comments I left above that I didn't mention much about the seal on the opposite side of the throttle body, the crankcase ventilation seal. If you every have the throttle body off, you will be able see right off the bat if Quaker State oil was ever used. Everything inside the plenum is gooped with the paraffin.(that's a side point if anyone was interested) Anyways, that is the other seal I really question when misfires occur. I didn't think about it in the earlier post because it doesn't seem to fail as prevalent as the TB seal but if your coding misfires and TB seal is replaced, stick your finger down behind the crankcase ventilation assembly, if it comes out oily or grimy then its probably bad also. If this misfire stuff seems over whelming, just write out the mentioned steps on paper and it should make it easier to whittle away.
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  #72  
Old 11-21-2013, 07:32 PM
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Ok, so I have went over all of the vacuum hoses including the notorious CCV hoses. I even tried the paper card or bag test over the crankcase opening (where oil cap sits). Pulled it right in. I have no "leaks" anywhere I can visually see. I have tried the carb/brake cleaner spray and no difference in idle. I do have a few codes that maybe you guys may know what they are or where to start as I am not a parts thrower. I like to test my vehicle. I have a generic list and peake code list to see how they relate. The MAF has been cleaned and the intake/throttle body boot has been replaced with a new one. Oh, the car has been trying to start longer at times like not getting the fuel. I have a new fuel filter just put in with the flow the correct way too. Once she starts she starts though.

The generic codes are as followed:
P1250: manufacturer specific (PRC solenoid circuit malfunction is what it read)
P0340: CPS sensor circuit bank 1
P1188: Fuel control bank 1 sensor 1
P0170: Fuel trim bank 1

Peake codes were with table 11:
CA: O2 sensor control limit cyl. 1-3
E3: O2 sensor adaption limit cyl. 1-3
41: CPS Camshaft position sensor
F2: Cylinder 5 misfire

I know without a scanner you can check the output of O2 sensors with a DDOM. You have to backprobe and find the power wire (signal wire) and it should fluctuate constantly 250mV to 850mV to be good. It fluctuates lean to rich lean to rich. bank 1 would be pre-cat/upstream and obviously sensor 1 is for cylinders 1-3.

I guess maybe the only thing to do since the CPS has never been changed is to change it out. I am guessing that may eliminate at least one code maybe two. The misfire could be from when the camshaft slows down on the 5th cylinder with the scope reading the PCM may think there is a misfire when it is actually just a faulty Cam sensor.

If anyone has fixed any of these or know anything I would love to hear the feedback and help. The car has 167k on it, but my engine now has 309k . I have a parts car and this car blew a head gasket, so I swapped it to have a running engine while I can take the other apart to inspect for any damage. Oh, I forgot to say what kind of car and so on. The car is a 1998 (7/98) 528i M52 engine with only one CPS (intake). Thanks a lot guys. I am fairly new to it as you can tell, but enjoy going through the threads and digging around.
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Last edited by bmwmanz2; 11-21-2013 at 08:07 PM.
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  #73  
Old 01-19-2014, 03:53 PM
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Another misfire thread resolved:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > 97 528i dies immediately after starting
Quote:
Originally Posted by bboyxeno View Post
PROBELM SOLVED. Turns out the ICV came out from where it goes into the intake manifold which was causing the huge vacuum leak.The car is working just fine now. I'm guessing when my when I had my dad help me wrestle the intake boot out he forgot to take out the hose from the ICV first and that caused it..

Thank you all for your help
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  #74  
Old 02-18-2014, 06:26 AM
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Fudman kindly cataloged his trials and tribulations on a random misfire today:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > A Random Misfire Diagnosis
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fudman View Post
This thread is my attempt to document my current and future diagnosis of a random misfire. Hopefully, this will make someone's life a little easier.

On Sat, I returned from travel after five days, getting stuck an extra 2 days due to the recent snowstorm. Luckily, the airport did not get pounded so getting my car out was no problem. It was cold but not that cold (~30F). However, as soon as I started the car, I could tell something was not right. Seeing the Check Engine Light confirmed it. It sounded like I was missing a cylinder. Not good but it did not sound too bad and the car was drivable. The primary symptom was a lack of power. The misfire continued for about 10 miles. The car would sound worse when the revs went above 2K so I kept the speed down around 55. Somehow, at the 10 mile mark, the CEL disappeared and the car suddenly regained the missing cylinders and everything was fine for the balance of the drive. This is apparently contrary to what is supposed to happen (fuel shutoff should remain off for this engine cycle). When I returned to my house, I pulled out my Peake code reader which identified cylinder 1 and 3 as misfiring. No other codes were present. I cleared the codes and left the car. Yesterday, I started the car and the engine fired right up on all cylinders. So, at this point, I have no clue as to why this happened. My car is well maintained, has been trouble free and normally garaged. The multiple day outdoor parking is the only obvious anomaly to normal routine.

I will use this thread as my guideline (Thanx, BB!) for diagnosing this problem as I go forward. http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...hlight=misfire At this point, since it is still winter, I will likely see if the problem recurs before I start tearing things apart.
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  #75  
Old 07-17-2014, 10:31 PM
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Here's an updated persistent misfire thread, which, after a year from start to finish, turned out to be a blown headgasket, which was probably from overheating (which is why the car was sold for a steal):
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Check engine light won't go away!
Quote:
Originally Posted by gman20001969 View Post
Hey guys. I got a 1997 528i for a steal last year. I had one small problem with a misfire that I fixed by replacing the spark plugs. Still had a check engine light. I took it up to Autozone and the codes were for P1189 and P0173. I took it out to a good place near me and had the guys replace the O2 sensors. Drive it for a while and WHAM! The light comes back. Checked the system for a vacuum leak with the guys and replaced the gasket on the oil filter housing, intake manifold, etc. Still comes back. The only thing I didn't do was replace the MAF.

The guys don't like to replace cats, but they take off complete exhaust systems for melt downs. They put on a spare system and...still I get the light. I can't get this car to pass emissions with the light on. I think I spent about $900 to which I could get a pass for the year, but that's just putting off the inevitable. Any suggestions?
Quote:
Originally Posted by gman20001969 View Post
The trouble was with a blown headgasket. That's what caused the code to go off. I finally had the engine rebuilt. I had trouble with the all O2 sensors since they were clogged with coolant. After flushing them repeatedly, I finally replaced them.
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