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7 Series - E65 / E66 (2002 - 2008)
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  #1  
Old 06-11-2013, 03:23 PM
ndcsucks ndcsucks is offline
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Ticking noise from under the car - 2006 BMW 750LI - 91,000 km

Hey gang...

Recently started noticing a ticking noise coming from what appears to be under the car when driving under a light load.
I can hear it when taking off from a traffic light slowly or when cruising on the highway next to the centre barrier with a light load on the engine, then I can hear the ticking echoing from the concrete barrier. If I am out in the open, I can’t really hear it at all.
I listened for the noise with the hood open and it does not sound like it's coming from the engine. I am pretty sure it’s coming from underneath the car, mid to front section.
The noise is not there until the car warms up, around 20 to 30 min of driving.
I have uploaded a video on YouTube for ya to listen to.

This video is with the car standing still with the break pedal being held hard with a slight load on the engine. You will hear the distinct “ticks”
I was under the car on the weekend checking heat shields and banging on the cats. Everything appears to me ok. Changed the oil, as it was due...No change to sound.
The noise does sound similar to when you shut off the car, and you hear the exhaust ticking when it’s cooling down… but it is definitely related to the slight pressure (load) on the throttle pedal. When coasting, or revving the engine in park or neutral, I don’t hear it.
Any insight to what I can look at or test would be great...
Thanks.
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  #2  
Old 08-25-2013, 07:58 PM
ndcsucks ndcsucks is offline
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Still have the ticking.. opened her up

Hey gang..

Opened up the valve cover today... need to do them as they are starting to leak anyways...

I think the ticking noise i hear when the car is fully warm is my timing chains hitting the block or sumthing.

Attached are some pictures of the top side of them..

I don't think the blue scuff marks should be there right?

Any input is appriciated.

Thanks.
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  #3  
Old 08-25-2013, 08:31 PM
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Expo BMW Expo BMW is offline
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The chain is definately hitting on something. This is caused by worn guides perhaps? I hope someone can chime in with a better idea for you.
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  #4  
Old 08-25-2013, 09:18 PM
ndcsucks ndcsucks is offline
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Thanks for getting back to me Expo...

Ya that's my therory as well.. Suprosed though.. I only have 95,000 Kilometers on the motor.

Kinda sad if they are worn already...

I am going in deeper tomorrow.. Will update this thread as I do...
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  #5  
Old 08-26-2013, 01:22 PM
ndcsucks ndcsucks is offline
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update...

Hey gang,

Attached is a picture and a link to youtube video...



Driver side timing chain is not as tight against the vanos sproket and lower guide as compaired to the passenger side. Passenger side is nice and "tight"..
On the driver side chain I can also slip a screwdriver in between the chain and the guide very easily. The hydraulic tensioners are still on as well.

I am thinking I have a bad guide or the chain is streched??? It should not be this loose should it?

Thoughts?
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  #6  
Old 08-26-2013, 01:55 PM
Thesatman Thesatman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ndcsucks View Post
Hey gang,

Attached is a picture and a link to youtube video...



Driver side timing chain is not as tight against the vanos sproket and lower guide as compaired to the passenger side. Passenger side is nice and "tight"..
On the driver side chain I can also slip a screwdriver in between the chain and the guide very easily. The hydraulic tensioners are still on as well.

I am thinking I have a bad guide or the chain is streched??? It should not be this loose should it?

Thoughts?
Yeah...that doen't look right to me at all. All the ones I have seen are tight. I wonder if the tensioner is bad. I know on my R1 the hydraulic cam chain tensioner works off the oil pressure so when you first start the bike it "ticks" loud for a few seconds until the oil pressure builds.
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  #7  
Old 08-26-2013, 06:41 PM
ndcsucks ndcsucks is offline
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Lightbulb Update

Well. I cranked the motor over a couple revs to set it up to TDC. Took some pics of all the valvetrain. (I am going to do the valve seals while I am in here) Always good to have some pics as a reference point. ;-)

After the few cranks, both chains are tight now. So I am not sure that's the issue.

Spent a couple hours trying to get the alternator bracket off. I still have at least 1 more star bolt I need to get off. Fricking bracket is not budging yet. What a chitty design that bracket is.

Can't get the lower timing chain cover off without that bracket out of the way. :-(

Have to go back to work for the next few days. Will get back at her this weekend.

Later.
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  #8  
Old 08-26-2013, 09:45 PM
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Might as well change the alternator gasket while youre in there too. Good luck!
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  #9  
Old 08-26-2013, 10:02 PM
ndcsucks ndcsucks is offline
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Oh ya. Will do if I can get it off!!
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  #10  
Old 08-26-2013, 10:21 PM
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Post #5 on the thread below...

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...rnator+bracket
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  #11  
Old 09-06-2013, 02:18 PM
ndcsucks ndcsucks is offline
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Question

I am in the process of timing my cams with the special timing tools...

I timed evrerything as per the TIS. Rotated engine a couple times slowly to make sure nothing is tagging each other... rechecked timing all good.

What I did notice is that the intake valves are not moving at all??? When cam should be pushing rocker down... they dont move.

Is that because there is no oil pressure in the hydrolic nibs that the rockers sit on?

Just want to make sure the intake cams are put together properly before I close it all up.

Thanks.
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  #12  
Old 09-07-2013, 04:36 PM
ndcsucks ndcsucks is offline
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I have the car running!!! Camshaft issues...

Car is running ... no more smoke after idle.. and my ticking noise is gone!!! yay..

I don't think my camshaft servos are working right though...

I have INPA and NCS Expert... I don't think either of these will reset the limits on the camshaft servos...

I got the following errors...

2A90 CDKNWAKW - exhaust camshaft gear offset the crankshaft
Error counter: 1 Logistic counter: 40
Mileage 97048 km Engine speed 680.00 1/min relative air charge 24.00% Engine temperature 75.75 degrees C Betriebsartenbyte 8.00 -
Correlation errors, a tooth offset test conditions fulfilled Error currently available but not yet saved (Entprellphase) Error would cause a warning lamp lighting up the diagnostic cycle active flag set

2A8C CDKANWSAD - outlet-VANOS Adaption stop
Error counter: 1 Logistic counter: 40
Mileage 97048 km Engine speed 680.00 1/min relative air charge 24.00% Engine temperature 75.75 degrees C Betriebsartenbyte 8.00 -
Camshaft timing has retarded position not reached test conditions fulfilled Error currently available but not yet saved (Entprellphase) Error would cause a warning lamp lighting up the diagnostic cycle active flag set


When I installed the servo motors I spun them both in... Turned on the car without holding the break down and waited over 20 sec and then shut it off. I did this a couple times. I thought this would re-learn the cam positions.

When I look at the cams in INPA, When i rev the car... the values don't move like they used to.

Any ideas?

Thanks.

Last edited by ndcsucks; 09-14-2013 at 03:33 PM.
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  #13  
Old 09-14-2013, 03:00 PM
ndcsucks ndcsucks is offline
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It's FIXED!!!

I stsrted troubleshooting this morning...

Ran all the adaption resets... Ram backup etc... did not help..

Decided it was time to dig into Bank 1 valve cover... :-(

But... To my suprise, I took a close look at the VANOS solenoids on that side and noticed I had the fricking electrical connections on backwards.. Nice!!!

Swapped them, reset the errors, fired it up... She is running good as new... No errors, idle is back to normal ect...

I am a happy guy...

Thanks to everyone for thier time and help... I do appriciate it.

Later..
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  #14  
Old 09-14-2013, 03:13 PM
Busarider Busarider is offline
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Thanks for posting, this will definitely help other. I always thought the ticking was vanos.
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  #15  
Old 09-14-2013, 03:30 PM
ndcsucks ndcsucks is offline
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Ticking...

For me the "ticking" was the timing chain touching the block casting on the right side, right after the chain left the exsaust vanos sproket. Right behind the timing cover.

In my case there appeared to be a bit of left over casting material on the block, that should not have been there. It looked like a little lump of metal that had some little score marks that lined up to the small marks on my chain.
As the car aged and the chain streached when the car warmed up....Under light loads, the chain would "tap" that high spot on the block... Random ...Tick,tick, tick...

I took a dremmel, got rid of the high spot.. Swaped out both hydrolic chain tensioners while I was at it and did a visual on all the chain guides... Everything else looked ok..

While I was there, I also decided to swap out all 32 valve seals... That was good times!!! ha ha..

About 6 days of work over a couple weekends... and she is running sweet.

Glad it's done. :-)
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  #16  
Old 09-16-2013, 01:06 AM
jameshuang86 jameshuang86 is offline
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I have the same tick when car is warm on my 550i.. Is this job hard to do? How do I explain to my tech what I need to be done? Thanks for your help!
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  #17  
Old 09-16-2013, 03:26 PM
ndcsucks ndcsucks is offline
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Hey bud.

On the DYi scale. It's probably a 9 to 10.

Like I mentioned above. 6 days at 8 to 10 hours each day. Getting at stuff in the 750 is a pain in the arse. :0)
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  #18  
Old 09-17-2013, 08:47 AM
ndcsucks ndcsucks is offline
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Pictures...

Some Pics of the journey I took... :-)
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  #19  
Old 09-17-2013, 09:04 AM
ndcsucks ndcsucks is offline
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A few more pics...

Timing the Cams etc...

Pics of Vanos and timing chains back on...

Engine back together :-)
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  #20  
Old 09-09-2014, 01:12 AM
as3070971 as3070971 is offline
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do you have to remove the vanos or reset timing to change the guide rails. engine was knocking and found piece of guide rail had broken off. have removed both left and right upper timing case cover. in process of removing the lower timing case cover. was wondering if I could replace rails without altering timing or need to reset timing. thanks a lot.
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  #21  
Old 09-09-2014, 12:29 PM
ndcsucks ndcsucks is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by as3070971 View Post
do you have to remove the vanos or reset timing to change the guide rails. engine was knocking and found piece of guide rail had broken off. have removed both left and right upper timing case cover. in process of removing the lower timing case cover. was wondering if I could replace rails without altering timing or need to reset timing. thanks a lot.

I am pretty sure you will need to slacken the chains more than just taking out the hydraulic pressure things, to get the guides out. The only way to get enough slack is to remove them from the VANOS sprockets...

That will kill your valve timing...

Last edited by ndcsucks; 09-09-2014 at 12:30 PM.
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