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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #26  
Old 02-24-2013, 01:56 PM
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Another one, reported today, about to blow:
Quote:
Originally Posted by flight203 View Post
I have let the car sit for a month now. I checked the oil and it is milky, meaning coolant in the oil. But the car does run great it dose not over heat at idle for hours. I drove the car to my fathers house 15 miles and it did not over heat but the temp did rise at red lights ?
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See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #27  
Old 09-10-2013, 01:52 PM
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Another blown engine today ...

Quote:
Originally Posted by kj970 View Post
I killed the engine in my 530 from overheating... My bad neglecting the cooling system, over heated one (or more) too many times. It's dead, head gasket at least, white smoke/steam after warm up and standing water/oil in at least 2 cylinders, my guess is that it's worse than that. The car is in excellent condition other than the dead engine, with 150k on it. I really like this car and hate to see it go and on top of that can't find anything i like as much to replace it with.
My questions is, is it worth the used engine swap cost and amount of work? I would do it myself, so labor costs would be minimal. Also any recommendations on where to even get a used engine?

appreciate any help
See also:
- Summary advice to provide users who suspect a major engine repair due to overheating (1) (2) (3) (4) & how to test an engine for a blown head gasket, cracked heads, a warped block, stripped head bolt threads, cam seizures, contaminated bearings, coolant hydrolock, or piston, ring, or valve damage (1) (2) & what are the major factors in deciding whether to rebuild the engine, replace the engine, or sell the car (1) & a DIY for replacing the I6 M54 head gasket (1) (2) & replacing the V8 M62TU head gasket (1) & why these engines are so prone to heat-related damage in the first place (1) & welding the crack between cylinder #3 and the water jacket on the exhaust side (1) & what engine swaps are most recommended (1) (2) (3) & where to obtain a new or rebuilt head (1) replacement short block or long block (1) (2) & how to lift & remove the engine (1) & the most recent real-world results from the last 50 people faced with similar blown engine problems from which this advice came from (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) (9) (10) (11) (12) (13) (14) (15) (16) (17) (18) (19) (20) (21) (22) (23) (24) (25) (26) (27) (28) (29) (30) (31) (32) (33) (34) (35) (36) (37) (38) (39) (40) (41) (42) (43) (44) (45) (46) (47) (48) (49) (50)
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Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #28  
Old 10-15-2013, 10:08 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Another blown engine today ...
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Loosing my mind
Quote:
Originally Posted by jbonly21 View Post
My piston rings on # 3 are gone, don't know what to do?


Sent from BimmerApp mobile app
__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #29  
Old 11-12-2013, 06:06 AM
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Another potential blown head gasket today ...
Quote:
Originally Posted by mhharding View Post
My car place is telling me the head gasket is about to blow on my car. How can I be sure they aren't just trying to take advantage of me? The raditator (this will be my 3rd in 2 years) sprung a leak. I noticed steam coming out from under the hood. There was almost no fluid in the radiator. And I could feel air blowing out from the side of the engine. But there was no white smoke from the tail pipe, no loss of power, no running rough or anything like that. Does it sound like the head gasket or could it just be a faulty radiator?
__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #30  
Old 11-18-2013, 09:11 PM
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Yet another blown engine today ...
Quote:
Originally Posted by PANDEEEZY View Post
hey everyone
i have a couple questions to ask, bare with me im still new to a lot of car things (im only 17) i have a 2002 e39 540i the engine needs replacing and i was wondering if there was any other engine i could get to just already make my car go faster when it comes back to life? i was thinking maybe if i could put an m5 engine in there but like i said im still new to a lot of things. most of the stuff me and my dad can do like putting in the engine etc. i could ask my dad more things but since im new here i kinda wanna bond more with you guys, so can yall answer some of my questions like? here goes..
1 obviously the ones i already asked up there^^^
2 can a car be turned from automatic to manual?
3 what is supercharged?
4 if i can put an m5 engine, what else would i have to change?
5 any specific wheels that would look good on an e39? i kinda wanted to get some beyern mesh wheels that are like really nice, but i still have an open mind.
6 what are some other things yall consider me doing?

when i fix my car up a bit more ill post pictures for you guys. really enjoying these forums. ive learned a lot already.
please get back to me thank you!

See also:
- Summary advice to provide users who suspect a major engine repair due to overheating (1) (2) (3) (4) & how to test an engine for a blown head gasket, cracked heads, a warped block, stripped head bolt threads, cam seizures, contaminated bearings, coolant hydrolock, or piston, ring, or valve damage (1) (2) & what are the major factors in deciding whether to rebuild the engine, replace the engine, or sell the car (1) & a DIY for replacing the I6 M54 head gasket (1) (2) & replacing the V8 M62TU head gasket (1) & why these engines are so prone to heat-related damage in the first place (1) & welding the crack between cylinder #3 and the water jacket on the exhaust side (1) & what engine swaps are most recommended (1) (2) (3) & where to obtain a new or rebuilt head (1) replacement short block or long block (1) (2) & how to lift & remove the engine (1) & the most recent real-world results from the last 50 people faced with similar blown engine problems from which this advice came from (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) (9) (10) (11) (12) (13) (14) (15) (16) (17) (18) (19) (20) (21) (22) (23) (24) (25) (26) (27) (28) (29) (30) (31) (32) (33) (34) (35) (36) (37) (38) (39) (40) (41) (42) (43) (44) (45) (46) (47) (48) (49) (50)
__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #31  
Old 11-21-2013, 08:19 PM
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Another blown head gasket today:
Quote:
Originally Posted by mdwsr View Post
2002 525i 2.5 blown head gasket. Machine shop says the head it no good. (If I replace the head will one work off a 3.0 530i?) Do I replace the head or the whole engine or will I do better parting out the car? It is in great shape other than the problem expressed. It only had 60k miles. Please give experienced feedback.
__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #32  
Old 11-23-2013, 05:39 AM
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Another engine replacement today:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Engine Replacement


Quote:
Originally Posted by rennmusic View Post
Year 2000, 540i with "M" package.
Body looks like new. Color=red.

Two different mechanics have told me that the engine is done.
I'm not a mechanic like many on here so I have to go by what they tell me.

This leaves me with a few questions.
1. Can that engine be replaced with a smaller, lets say from a 530?
2. Whats a good price for an engine?
3. What should I look out for, besides mileage.

As far as I understand, the chain broke that runs the oil pump which resulted in possibly head gaskets blown. The cooling system has been troublesome for years, constantly leaking water at the back of the engine, but I am still puzzled why it is cheaper to get another engine. Its not like the pistons or cylinders are messed up.

Anyway, any suggestions are very appreciated.
__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #33  
Old 11-24-2013, 07:15 AM
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They seem to be coming more frequently lately ...
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Engine Overhaul
__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #34  
Old 11-29-2013, 09:54 AM
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Another blown M54 today ...
Quote:
Originally Posted by jasondad View Post
2002 M54....warped head.....threds wont hold the head bolts....Want to swap motors and have access to a low mile 1998 M54B25.....can it happen and what challenges may I face?
__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #35  
Old 12-20-2013, 06:53 PM
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This one is a 528i ...

Quote:
Originally Posted by mpx View Post
I'm not shy to take the whole car apart, but I really don't want to remove more than necessary, especially if I have to replace the gaskets/seals afterwards. That being said, I'm going back and forth about removing the engine: should I take both engine and transmission or engine only? Based on feedback on this forum, it seemed removing both might be easier, until I got to the giubo. After reading about it I felt less embarrassed for getting stuck there, especially without removing the exhaust.

Here's where I could use some help:

1. I removed the bumper to make room for both (eng+transm) to slide out. The aux fan is out, but the radiator is still in the way. I can disconnect the transm. lines at the transmission, but where do I disconnect the AC lines?
How do I disconnect the AC compressor and lines so I wouldn't have to recharge the system afterwards? I can't reach the bolt to disconnect the compressor no matter how I try.

2. Where is the best part to disconnect the transmission? The manual says disconnect the exhaust first anyway, then the giubo seemed the way to go. But if this can be difficult to put back or it can cause vibrations if not compressed properly - maybe I should just stick to the bell housing bolts? Or leave the giubo on and disconnect the shaft at the rear end?

Thank you in advance.
__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
Reply With Quote
  #36  
Old 12-25-2013, 12:58 AM
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Another dead overheated engine replacement today ...
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > 98 528i new engine harness question. Plug n play??
Quote:
Originally Posted by Themysterye39 View Post
The new engine is from a 97 528i and mines a 98 but was built in 97 whatever that means. So what killed it was a head gasket, it overheated.
__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #37  
Old 06-08-2014, 10:37 AM
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Another one today ... either a head gasket or rings or both:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Did Head Job, Compression too low to start


Quote:
Originally Posted by mbushell View Post


Here's the update. Thanks to all who helped me. Just got the car back from the shop. I did the head myself. Just had them reprogram the computers $400 in towing and bills, and the shop did nothing that I can see. All the warning lights and codes are still there. He said he did another leakdown test, and the rings are shot... Said I need an overhaul. The car ran fine other than the white smoke from the bad head gasket.

I need to make a decision... Pull the engine? Do the work? Not a big deal for me to do. I have enough experience...

ORRRR... Do I part it out? Ive got around $2000 in it total purchase price, towing, parts and labor so far. I thinks its worth the work, and Id love to photo and archive the job on this site to help folks in the future.

The issue isnt time it is money... Which could make this job take quite a while, and I need another car. My girlfriend and I are having to share. I sold my truck as I was so sure this car would run. Its actually causing relationship issues at this point

Ive tried the oil in the cylinders trick. I cleaned it so much during the head job that Im the one that screwed it up. The carbon was actually helping the compression. My incessant need for perfection and gleaming cylinder bores is what did this. Im going to take a heat gun to the pistons, try to heat it, and try to start it one more time to break it back in. Also thought of adding a fuel that needs less compression to burn. Once started, It will break back in and be fine im sure... Ive tried ether it dont work at all...

Anyone with a suggestion would be appreciated

Otherwise im going to go rent a cherry picker tomorrow.

Its trying to start, just wont quite do it.
__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
Reply With Quote
  #38  
Old 06-08-2014, 07:13 PM
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Another overheated engine today, this one being bought with the full knowledge thereof ...
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > I bought a parts car and........
Quote:
Originally Posted by SFBayBimmer View Post
So I bought a 1999 528i with a dead engine today. The PO overheated it and now it apparently has no or very low compression; it only has 102k on it. Overall condition (sans the engine of course) of the car is a strong 9 out of 10. I bought this for exterior parts to restore my 1997 540i. My question is, beyond body panels/parts and interior parts, what of the suspension/steering systems and rear differential parts interchange? I want to harvest as much as possible. Thanks in advance
__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #39  
Old 06-27-2014, 08:09 AM
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Another engine to be rebuilt, today:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Cylinder Head Replacement
__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
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  #40  
Old 06-28-2014, 01:43 AM
retiredat44 retiredat44 is offline
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Location: Oregon
 
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Can't the problem with the head bolt be fixed? Heli-coil? Shouldn't the head be taken off to get a looksee?
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  #41  
Old 06-28-2014, 08:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by retiredat44 View Post
Can't the problem with the head bolt be fixed? Heli-coil? Shouldn't the head be taken off to get a looksee?
On that topic, since this is the canonical cross reference thread for an overheated motor, typing /helicoil f3 in the bestlinks nets this:
- Helicoils (1) vs Timeserts (1) for stripped oilpan (1) & spark plug (1) & head gasket thread repair (1) & expoxy for other stripped threads (1) & Metric/SAE bolt conversion factors (1)
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

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__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
Reply With Quote
  #42  
Old 07-02-2014, 09:10 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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The poor E46 team has the same problems we have ...
> E46 (1999 - 2006) > 02 330ci - Cracked block or blown gasket - Need suggestions
Quote:
Originally Posted by NateFlanders View Post
Hey everyone..


Well, about a year ago, I bought this 02 330ci used, ran great for about a week with no overheating. Threw the engine light, had about 10 different error codes, and then threw the coolant low light often.

Then, a few days after that, white (sweet smelling) smoke started pouring out of the exhaust and had that sweet coolant smell. Well, some other things happened and I didn't drive the car after that for about 9 months.

Got it back about 2 months ago, ran fine, replaced the thermostat (as I didn't want to believe it was the head gasket) and that stopped the car from overheating. Still blew white smoke on start up though. Bought a block and gasket tester and it passed (didn't change the liquid a different color) I said "Oh great!". Well, later found out the only reason that test "Passed" was because the pressure in the coolant reservoir blew coolant all the way to the nozzle of the tester giving it an inaccurate reading, when I removed the tester coolant blew out everywhere. Even on cold start, with coolant reservoir cap removed, at idle, the coolant will over flow like crazy.

As of 2-3 days ago, the white smoke has gotten worse. IT went from only blowing on start up, to now blowing throughout my entire drive and coolant has been draining much faster (But no over heating). I've kept the coolant filled to "Get by" and prevent overheating. The car has had a massive loss of power and today overheated (Hit the red, and happened super fast without me really noticing until it was too late) with full coolant reservoir.

I already know I was sold a lemon, and since it's been "in the red" a few times that the damage to the engine may be too extensive/costly to repair.

I'm looking now for used engines but haven't found anything with less than 130k miles.

What do you all suggest? New engine or dig into the engine to either
A. Waste a lot of time and money
B. Find the problem and still spend an arm and a leg
C. Buy a new (used) engine and bite the bullet for getting it installed. May seem like that will save a lot of headache as long as the new engine isn't **** as well.



So, that was an extremely unorganized post:

tl;dr summary
Bought a lemon 02 330ci from a low life **** head who cleared codes and probably used "gasket quick fix snake oil"
Car probably has a lot more problems now that it's "Been in the red" a few times without warning.
Should I
A. Dig to the gasket and replace and machine the head?
B. Buy a new (used) engine?
C. Listen to any other suggestions you all may have?



I would sell the car or get rid of it, but I'd be so far upside down, so that is out of the question. I'm stuck with it.


Thanks everyone.
__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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