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7 Series - E38 (1995 - 2001)

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  #51  
Old 08-17-2013, 05:46 PM
taco_combo taco_combo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigBoy740il View Post
@gonzo40 and gsoman
Change the filter and fluid in your transmission. Your problem is caused by low fluid pressure resulting in poor torque converter lock up (shudder). Get the OEM filtran filter, 6 quarts of transmission fluid, Lucas trans fix, transmission pan gasket, and filter o ring. The fluid change steps can be found on this forum and can be performed in under two hours. A lot of guys on this forum use Redline D4, Mobil 1 ATF, or Maxlife. I've had great results with Maxlife (red bottle).

well 3 years ago I bought my 01 740i sport and had trans problems (trans fail message/no reverse) and had the small time dealer fix the problem. this was at 138k miles. I am now near 165k miles 3 years later and the car today just has no juice/power in reverse.

I think I will stop by my indy shop and have them work on this. I am about at the end here on repairs on this car. about 9k in 3 years. I only paid $5k for it but still...
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  #52  
Old 08-17-2013, 07:22 PM
taco_combo taco_combo is offline
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here is a flaw in the valve body's reverse check ball. The problem manifests first as a hesitation in engaging reverse. Then, a hesitation in first. Lastly, complete failure by trying to engage the first and reverse gears at the same time. The problem is the check ball for the reverse system is plastic, and wears down over a long period of time. It seems to happen around 150k miles. The only way to fix it is to replace the check ball with another. ZF makes a refit kit
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  #53  
Old 08-25-2013, 06:11 AM
mikejenkins mikejenkins is offline
Mikej
Location: Rugby, U.K.
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
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Mein Auto: E38 750i, E34 540 Touring
Quite an interesting thread, this one, so I shall add my penny-worth.
Wife's E38 750. I had a "noise", scraping type, when I pulled out of an entrance uphill to the right. Nowhere else. Over a few weeks it got worse. I couldn't find anything.
Finally I took it to a very good "indy". He put it on the ramp, and immediatly a mechanic diagnosed a torque-converter problem. It made sense.
He dropped the transmission, and sent the converter off for repair/recon.
Specialist confirmed that the "lockup" clutch inside the converter had failed.
Replaced it all. Started up and the noise was still there! We were all a bit perplexed, and redfaced. I took the car home and put it on it's naughty step (wheel ramps to some), to look at an oil leak.
Whilst underneath I noticed that the fan shroud wasn't properly in it's locating lugs. Took it out and fitted it properly. I noticed marks on the fan blades, and on the shroud. Whoops! Funnily enough, the noise disappeared. I was rather glad the converter had needed the recon anyway!
Mike.
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  #54  
Old 08-28-2013, 09:08 PM
taco_combo taco_combo is offline
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as of nowhere no issues. I had the no reverse 30k miles ago and 3 yrs ago which was fixed. who knows. I will play it by year
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  #55  
Old 09-05-2013, 09:57 PM
Podmore Podmore is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikejenkins View Post
Quite an interesting thread, this one, so I shall add my penny-worth.
Wife's E38 750. I had a "noise", scraping type, when I pulled out of an entrance uphill to the right. Nowhere else. Over a few weeks it got worse. I couldn't find anything.
Finally I took it to a very good "indy". He put it on the ramp, and immediatly a mechanic diagnosed a torque-converter problem. It made sense.
He dropped the transmission, and sent the converter off for repair/recon.
Specialist confirmed that the "lockup" clutch inside the converter had failed.
Replaced it all. Started up and the noise was still there! We were all a bit perplexed, and redfaced. I took the car home and put it on it's naughty step (wheel ramps to some), to look at an oil leak.
Whilst underneath I noticed that the fan shroud wasn't properly in it's locating lugs. Took it out and fitted it properly. I noticed marks on the fan blades, and on the shroud. Whoops! Funnily enough, the noise disappeared. I was rather glad the converter had needed the recon anyway!
Mike.
Suggests to me that your engine mounts may also be suspect - with a broken RH mount the 'uphill to the right' motion would cause the engine to lean over to the left, thus allowing the fan to come into contact with the shroud - if it was just that the shroud was able to move enough to contact the fan, I would have thought it would do it all the time?
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  #56  
Old 09-06-2013, 01:00 PM
mikejenkins mikejenkins is offline
Mikej
Location: Rugby, U.K.
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
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Mein Auto: E38 750i, E34 540 Touring
The engine mounts are fine. Unfortunately the car was owned by a plonker before I got it. The shroud was not located in any of the slots, and instead of two plastic rivets at the top it was "secured" with two nylon ties! just putting it in properly fixed it. I have found loads of similar issues. The heater core was blocked and an attempt to remove it had been made. most of the console fixings etc. were broken. It's nearly sorted now. Rubber gearbox coupling to change, and "Throttle" error to sort.
Lucky fellow living in Adelaide
Mike
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  #57  
Old 09-06-2013, 04:01 PM
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FABOCH FABOCH is online now
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Mike, I hope u replaced the fan blade and fan clutch. Those are super sensitive things on these e38s.. You wouldnt want to be reusing that same fan blade that was hitting ur fan shroud unless u want to expirence the Exploding fan syndrome, where it take out all the coolant hoses and dents ur hood
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  #58  
Old 09-07-2013, 12:28 AM
mikejenkins mikejenkins is offline
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Location: Rugby, U.K.
 
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Mein Auto: E38 750i, E34 540 Touring
Oh yes!
Funnily enough I had somehow not heard of that until this happened, even though I have had BMW's since 1971, when we got a 30SA. Fabulous car, and my father and I were hooked.
I am actually debating removing the fan and clutch and fitting an electric one like my E36 and son-in-law's E46. I changed it on my E23 735 many years ago, and it was good. Wish I still had it.
Any ideas on this?
Mike
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  #59  
Old 09-09-2013, 06:41 PM
taco_combo taco_combo is offline
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revers didn't work today..... cant risk this.... ugh
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  #60  
Old 09-11-2013, 04:41 PM
mikejenkins mikejenkins is offline
Mikej
Location: Rugby, U.K.
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
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Mein Auto: E38 750i, E34 540 Touring
Ouch! If you already replaced the plastic ball valves, then the next issue is that the reverse clutch housing crracks. Pressure leaks, no reverse.
Hope not. I am sure that there is a plug in the casing that you can use to test the pressure. I should have this info somewhere and shall post if I have.
Best answer is S/H box. Check the ball valves and fit.
Mike
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  #61  
Old 01-08-2014, 04:50 PM
prieto01 prieto01 is offline
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Mein Auto: 2001 bmw 740il
Thumbs down bmw not working

Due to the cold weather my car started and warmed up. I put it in drive and reverse but it doesnt want to move.
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  #62  
Old 02-05-2014, 10:05 AM
injuhneer injuhneer is offline
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So after reading most of this thread (I admit to skimming) I wanted to add a comment or two.

1) Changing fluid on high mileage transmissions is not an issue if you don't go flog it immediately. Keep in mind that while a torque converter is essentially a pump it is also a centrifuge. Drive the car easy after a fluid change with moderate throttle and the heavy debris will be trapped in the periphery of the TC. Also change the filter to catch the big stuff.

2) Has anyone done a dipstick mod? Even if not for checking the level having the top accessible tube would simplify service.

-Mike O
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  #63  
Old 02-10-2014, 08:35 PM
taco_combo taco_combo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by injuhneer View Post
So after reading most of this thread (I admit to skimming) I wanted to add a comment or two.

1) Changing fluid on high mileage transmissions is not an issue if you don'at go flog it immediately. Keep in mind that while a torque converter is essentially a pump it is also a centrifuge. Drive the car easy after a fluid change with moderate throttle and the heavy debris will be trapped in the periphery of the TC. Also change the filter to catch the big stuff.

2) Has anyone done a dipstick mod? Even if not for checking the level having the top accessible tube would simplify service.

-Mike O
I ended buying a used tranny for a few hundred bux. at this point i can almost care less
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  #64  
Old 02-11-2014, 02:55 PM
txturbo txturbo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by injuhneer View Post
So after reading most of this thread (I admit to skimming) I wanted to add a comment or two.

1) Changing fluid on high mileage transmissions is not an issue if you don't go flog it immediately. Keep in mind that while a torque converter is essentially a pump it is also a centrifuge. Drive the car easy after a fluid change with moderate throttle and the heavy debris will be trapped in the periphery of the TC. Also change the filter to catch the big stuff.

2) Has anyone done a dipstick mod? Even if not for checking the level having the top accessible tube would simplify service.

-Mike O
I disagree.....I use to work in a transmission shop and have seen what can happen first hand. We had several customers ignore the warning and insisted we change the fluid anyway. Two of them wouldn't even back off the lift....one did but when shifted to drive it was slipping so bad he couldn't drive it home. Its not big debris that causes the problem....its the detergent action of the fresh fluid that cleans all the sludge and stuff off of everything resulting in internal pressure leaks. That gunk and varnish was the only thing helping the worn o-rings and sealing rings to seal enough to hold enough pressure for things to work. So the best thing for high mileage transmissions that have anything other than pink looking fluid is to either leave it alone or pull it and rebuild it.
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  #65  
Old 02-12-2014, 09:45 AM
injuhneer injuhneer is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by txturbo View Post
I disagree.....I use to work in a transmission shop and have seen what can happen first hand. We had several customers ignore the warning and insisted we change the fluid anyway. Two of them wouldn't even back off the lift....one did but when shifted to drive it was slipping so bad he couldn't drive it home. Its not big debris that causes the problem....its the detergent action of the fresh fluid that cleans all the sludge and stuff off of everything resulting in internal pressure leaks. That gunk and varnish was the only thing helping the worn o-rings and sealing rings to seal enough to hold enough pressure for things to work. So the best thing for high mileage transmissions that have anything other than pink looking fluid is to either leave it alone or pull it and rebuild it.
I don't doubt that these things happen. Wear is indeed a separate issue from debris damage.

So I guess we can use dirty, degraded ATF to keep our old cars running like new.

All kidding aside I don't see how degraded fluid (broken molecules, failed detergents, failed modifiers) can be good for any transmission.

-Mike O.
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  #66  
Old 02-12-2014, 10:47 AM
txturbo txturbo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by injuhneer View Post
I don't doubt that these things happen. Wear is indeed a separate issue from debris damage.

So I guess we can use dirty, degraded ATF to keep our old cars running like new.

All kidding aside I don't see how degraded fluid (broken molecules, failed detergents, failed modifiers) can be good for any transmission.

-Mike O.
Didn't say it was good for it. What I'm saying is if it has already been allowed to get to that point that changing it will do more harm than good to your wallet. The odds of it still working are not in your favor. So if it's your only transportation and you don't have the resources to pay for a rebuild....themselves it's best to leave it alone and continue to be able to drive it.

Last edited by txturbo; 02-12-2014 at 10:50 AM.
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  #67  
Old 02-12-2014, 12:44 PM
injuhneer injuhneer is offline
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Originally Posted by txturbo View Post
Didn't say it was good for it. What I'm saying is if it has already been allowed to get to that point that changing it will do more harm than good to your wallet. The odds of it still working are not in your favor. So if it's your only transportation and you don't have the resources to pay for a rebuild....themselves it's best to leave it alone and continue to be able to drive it.
Maybe not explicitly but certainly implied. So the implication is that flushing the molasses out of the trans can be a diagnostic tool!

Leaving it as is will guarantee that the box will grenade. You have seen the insides of one that has let go, I am sure. So I guess it depends on your intentions; whether you want to run it until it explodes or catch it while it can be saved.

My experience has been that it can be a good diag step. One car I had was in this state when I got the car. I flushed it. Immediately the abrupt 1-2 shift and slow 2-3 indicated what I needed. A duty cycle solenoid and a band later it was working great again.

But your point is taken and understood. Thanks for clarifying.

-Mike O.

Last edited by injuhneer; 02-17-2014 at 08:59 AM.
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  #68  
Old 04-03-2014, 05:42 PM
doug powell doug powell is offline
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i too just purchased a 95 740il with a similar issue. 118 on od. car makes a noise like it has a bad wheel bearing at around 30 to 40 mile per hour just rolling along no hard throttle. when the sound starts i let off on the pedal and it goes away instantly, but comes back soon after, but always goes away when i let off on gas. according to my bentley manual it states it's a driveline issue ie. driveshaft and components. i did hear an odd sound today going up an incline it made the sound and kind of slipped but no change in rpm. has anyone changed the driveshaft cv or center support bearing. the sound eminates from the center of the car on my right as if its a driveshaft issue. seems odd that a $61000.00 car can have such issues at 118000 miles I have a dodge ram with 199000 with no issues. this car is like a person that is too intelligent for their own good.
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  #69  
Old 04-03-2014, 05:54 PM
doug powell doug powell is offline
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i have 2 so called indy shops near Me Steves european service, and Munks motors both have been in business for decades, but have no more of an idea of the problem than any of the post on here. only diff is they charge $80 per hour. so many intelligent owners and even more contradictions. why are expensive cars such a headache?
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  #70  
Old 04-04-2014, 11:01 AM
doug powell doug powell is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikejenkins View Post
Quite an interesting thread, this one, so I shall add my penny-worth.
Wife's E38 750. I had a "noise", scraping type, when I pulled out of an entrance uphill to the right. Nowhere else. Over a few weeks it got worse. I couldn't find anything.
Finally I took it to a very good "indy". He put it on the ramp, and immediatly a mechanic diagnosed a torque-converter problem. It made sense.
He dropped the transmission, and sent the converter off for repair/recon.
Specialist confirmed that the "lockup" clutch inside the converter had failed.
Replaced it all. Started up and the noise was still there! We were all a bit perplexed, and redfaced. I took the car home and put it on it's naughty step (wheel ramps to some), to look at an oil leak.
Whilst underneath I noticed that the fan shroud wasn't properly in it's locating lugs. Took it out and fitted it properly. I noticed marks on the fan blades, and on the shroud. Whoops! Funnily enough, the noise disappeared. I was rather glad the converter had needed the recon anyway!
Mike.
so are We to assume it was not the torque converter and you got hosed. or???? lots of vague no use answers on this forum everybody has a different idea of whats wrong.
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  #71  
Old 04-04-2014, 09:16 PM
Swank350 Swank350 is offline
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I guess so,lol


Sent from BimmerApp mobile app
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  #72  
Old 04-10-2014, 12:53 PM
doug powell doug powell is offline
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hello ladies... I am very disappointed with this thread about transmission noise I have a 1995 e38 with the "noise" at 30 to 40 mph so i read all the posts left for this this issue, and heeded all the advice. yet the problem was, as with any car, 14 to 19 years old is: fluid break down. there is no such thing as lifetime trans fluid... that is a total joke! remove the trans pan replace the filter fill it back up and what do you know problem gone... if your one of those that believe a BMW can with stand constant flogging that is a joke as well. i used valvoline max life total synth and a beck and arnley trans filter. followed the directions in my bentley manual (i would assume you all have a manual) and what do you know sound is gone. too many"whatevers" think they know the answer , or just like to give their opinion, don't go to the trans shop or your "indy" shop (a joke) this is a car that is worth 5000.00 tops why start out with a 3000.00 trans swap..... stupid!!! you need to understand if you buy an old BMW learn how to fix it. it is no different than an american car. torque convertors are all the same. BMW's cost upwards of $60 grand they are are not cars that break down. you must understand, that the average initial owner has a great job and can afford this car. as time goes by, usually the 3rd owner, all goes to hell...cuz no one keeps them maintained. if you are looking for help on bimmerfest you must love this car... common sense prevails.. " IT'S A BMW" not a CHEVY, or FORD. learn how to repair this beast. don't get HOSED by the so-called INDY shop. MY indy shops cost me 3000.00 to fix a simple problem because they wouldn't listen to the car owner. /(ME) 10 years ago lesson learned. don't buy something you can't fix.
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  #73  
Old 04-10-2014, 12:57 PM
doug powell doug powell is offline
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Location: michigan
 
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Posts: 25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by injuhneer View Post
So after reading most of this thread (I admit to skimming) I wanted to add a comment or two.

1) Changing fluid on high mileage transmissions is not an issue if you don't go flog it immediately. Keep in mind that while a torque converter is essentially a pump it is also a centrifuge. Drive the car easy after a fluid change with moderate throttle and the heavy debris will be trapped in the periphery of the TC. Also change the filter to catch the big stuff.

2) Has anyone done a dipstick mod? Even if not for checking the level having the top accessible tube would simplify service.

-Mike O
a dipstick mod.. really???
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  #74  
Old 05-14-2014, 01:28 PM
RudyJo36 RudyJo36 is offline
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Location: Maryland
 
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Mein Auto: 2001 740IL
Trans slips in reverse on hill

I will try the fuild change on my 2001 740iL - its slips terrible on a hil in reverse and will not go -back up fine on level ground. 148K owned for 2yrs
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  #75  
Old 05-19-2014, 05:30 AM
doug powell doug powell is offline
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Location: michigan
 
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Mein Auto: 1995 e38
dip stick mod/trans issues/noise

from what i can see, from doing my '95 740il v8 the fill plug is on the underside of the pan, not on the side of the trans as in some other models. so don't think dip stick mod works for '95 and up 740's and 750's. i have changed the fluid twice since the rubber trans gasket that came with the 1st kit started leaking after 3 weeks. so had to remove pan again and use the thin gasket that is oem for this car. i have noticed that I need to let vehicle run for about 7-10 minutes or it will not shift into 2nd or 3rd or 4th etc. but once warm shifts well (no flogging) and no odd sounds like i was getting when I 1st purchased it in march. (sounded like a bad wheel bearing) sad thing is my Bentley manual troubleshoots it as a worn drive shaft bearing. NOT!! the transmission on this model is basically a luxury car trans. designed to shift without causing passengers any discomfort. so it does the hunting thing at low speed as part of it's design. Sport mode is still an enigma to Me, not sure on where the shift points are in regards to RPM's mine shifts from 1st to 2nd at 2000 rpm and does not shift again until 3200 rpm is that normal. What is the deal with the manual/auto switch for the tranny? do I use that in conjunction with sport mode? love this cheap car paid 3000.00.. parts are cheap considering what it is. have a porsche 944 and a Jaguar XJS v12 parts are expensive. I dive My 740 like an old man so it should serve Me well.
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