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F10 / F11 (2011 - Current)
The new chapter in the highly successful story of the BMW 5 Series Sedan (F10) and wagon (F11)

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  #51  
Old 02-26-2013, 01:13 PM
Gundo Gundo is offline
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Nice, but blendmount hangs pretty low, and detector is very visible from rear. I have one similar to this in another car. Have to say though, great location.
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  #52  
Old 02-26-2013, 02:15 PM
neurocranium neurocranium is offline
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Q
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  #53  
Old 02-27-2013, 06:33 PM
jdmfrogg jdmfrogg is offline
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I used this and another post (power via rear view mirror) to hardwire my 9500. I didn't want to unplug and unmount the detector daily - so I decided to sew a custom visor pouch for a more stealth look. There are 2 generic visor pouches for sale on the net that look like CD holders, but the fit wasn't tight or OEM looking. So if you are handy with a sewing machine, you should be able to make one with a simple velcro flap and a cutout on the back. The fabric I picked up at my local JoAnn fabric was a pretty good match, and with some paper templates it took me a weekend to cut and sew the pouch. Radarbusters and several other forums debate having detectors up high on the visor, but I have had solid performance thus far with the 9500 picking up radar as well as laser comparable to when it was mounted mid windshield. GPS signal has also been good - no delays or trouble connecting (SF bay area). Just wanted to share, enjoy - Jo
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  #54  
Old 02-27-2013, 06:57 PM
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Pretty nice! I fire up the old Singer to do repairs on motorcycle gear, make a bike cover and what not, it's a great skill to have, just don't run a needle through a digit! OUCH!
Do you have an opening for the laser receiver? I know that the radar signal will go through fabric as well as the GPS signal.
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  #55  
Old 02-27-2013, 07:13 PM
jdmfrogg jdmfrogg is offline
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Thanks Donm - spot on, watch those digits unless your running red fabric
I updated the pics to show more details. The rear of the pouch (facing the front of the car) has a pretty large cutout to expose the back of the detector and give it line of sight, but the rear sensor (little nub on the top surface of the 9500) does not have visibility to lasers from the rear. Last month I drove by a LEO with a laser that hit me from a distance, so I know the front works for sure for laser. And like you said, since radar and GPS goes through fabric I haven't seen a drop in sensitivity from having it up high for either of those signals as well.
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  #56  
Old 02-27-2013, 07:17 PM
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Good deal!

I wish someone would make something that would cover those damn DOT warning labels that have to be put on the sun visors!!!

Damn, they are ugly!!!
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  #57  
Old 06-08-2013, 10:09 AM
grandpawmoses grandpawmoses is offline
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Thanks to the OP, I finally replaced my old Escort Solo 2 with the 9500ix & hardwired it in. Escort has started discounting their 9500ix $50 to make room for their new super Passport Max detector. Best Buy even had a sale on it on top of that. I used the bolt for the ground connection but got a poor positive connection using the crimp-on. I ended up soldering it. The entire time was less than an hour thanks to the OP's consol removal instructions and hot wire locating.
David
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  #58  
Old 08-18-2013, 01:39 AM
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johnbmw6 johnbmw6 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sep23 View Post
Hello! Right from the start I have to say that I have never posted a tutorial on something like this, so don't be too hard on me!!! I am sure there are better or even simpler ways to do this but this method worked for me. I did make a minor mistake which I will point out but overall it was relatively easy since I had done this before.

Our previous 5-series was a 2008 model and I was able to find a great tutorial that allowed me to hardwire my Escort Passport 9500i easily http://forums.5series.net/topic/708-radar-det/. So, to give back to the community, I took some pictures of my new install and wanted to share with you guys how I was able to hardwire this same detector in a 2011 550i (F10). So here goes….

Just for info, I was using the Direct Wire Power Cord accessory that comes with the 9500i. I had to order a new one for this install since I left the original one in my old 550. It is a nice inline fused cord with a spade connector for power and a circle connector for ground. Since I used the midline wire taps (JT&T 22-16AWG Red Mid-Line Tap from Home Depot), I ended up cutting these connectors off.

Opening the Overhead Console:
This is, without a doubt, the hardest part of the entire install, but not too hard! The console really consists of two layers (basic decorative plastic covering and the actual "meat" of the console) but it is much easier to remove both layers at one time (I could not see an easy way to fully separate the 2 layers).
If you use a spatula (plastic rather than metal) or have strong fingernails, you can easily separate the plastic housing layer (outer)from the circuit board/lights layer (inner) on the rear and front of the console (Photo 1).

It is held together with rather weak plastic clips. I tried but could not fully separate the 2 layers but by doing this I was able to see how to pull out the entire console as one unit.
The full console is held tightly in place by 6 metal clips (Photo 2).

The front and rear clips are easy to release but the two side clips are much stiffer. Here is how I was able to release these clips:

1) If you have successfully released the front and rear plastic clips of the outer layer, with a flashlight, you should be able to see the 2 metal clips at the front of the console. By putting a couple of fingers between the clips and applying steady down pressure you should be able to pop the front of the console down freeing the clips. Just make sure you are pulling down on the inner layer and not the flimsy outer layer. If you are having problems with this and you have small hands, you may be able to reach a couple of fingers in the very front between the windshield and the roof's interior and push down with that hand while pulling down with your other hand at the same time. A good photo of this (for an E90) is here: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=97545 You probably need to sit in the front passenger seat backwards to be able to do this….

2) Next, you have the 2 side clips to work on. I was able to see the side of each clip by pulling down somewhat aggressively on the outer layer from the rear of the console, which gave me enough room to stick a screwdriver in to push the clip inward while pulling down on the full console (sorry, I should have taken a photo of this step). Once one of the side clips is released, you should be able to do the same on the other side or you just might be able to wiggle and work the entire console down completely by rotating it toward the rear of the car.

I think this all might sound a bit daunting but really in retrospect it wasn't too difficult. I really think that if you have smaller hands it might be easier…. Here is a photo of the console fully removed and hanging by the wire harness. I did not bother disconnecting the harness because the console was never really in my way (Photo 3)!


Finding the Correct Wires:
I used a volt meter to probe several wires until I found one that seemed to carry a switched 12vdc supply. Here is where I made my mistake! I found a wire leading to the auxiliary sunroof motor (big silver thing that tilts the sunroof up and down) that seemed to carry a good 12 volts (it read 12.2 volts on my digital voltmeter). I quickly tapped into it using that 22-16g mid-line tap (Radio Shack or Home Depot). Upon testing the line again, I got 11.98 volts with the ignition engaged and 12.20 volts with the engine running. Should be good, right? Wrong for my Escort Passport 9500i! Connected to this supply, the Escort would only make a barely audible clicking noise. I connected it using the cigarette socket supply and it turned on properly. I then measured the voltage coming from the cigarette socket and it was 13.8 volts!!! So I figured I had just tapped a lower power source and needed to find a better source among the many wires in the harness.
The eventual solution was a green & brown wire in a bundle just forward of the silver sunroof motor. The bundle was heading towards the the rearview mirror (photo 4).


i had to remove some of the black cloth tape to fully expose the wires. I checked and I had a good 13.5-13.9 volts there. Again using the 22-16 gauge midline tap, I connected my positive wire that would lead to the detector (photo 5).

This time the detector turned on perfectly and off when the car turned off!

Next, I needed to find a good ground. On my prior install I was able to use a bolt that was screwed into the roof's interior. On the F10, these bolts were a bit harder to see and I had no angled tools that would allow me to loosen them to then secure my ground wire to. If you have a skinny angled socket wrench and small hands you may be able to do this. The bolts are to the right and left of the sunroof motor (photo 6).

In my search for a better "12 volt" wire, I did find a couple of easily accessible wires that were good grounds. The one I used was on the harness going to the sunroof motor (photo 7).

I disconnected the plug going to the motor and looking at the back side of the plug (you are seeing the wires entering the back of the plug, the ground wire is the yellow & green wire in the upper left most hole or lower rightmost hole depending on how you are holding it (photo 8).

Using another midline tap, I attached the ground wire leading to the detector. Note you will see the unused "mistake" tap from my first attempt at finding suitable 12v power (photo 9).


Final Steps
The final steps are pretty basic…. Remember to plug the harness back into the sunroof motor and make sure it still works!
Then, I stuffed the remaining amount of detector power cord into the roof interior making sure that it would not interfere with replacement of the overhead console. My midline taps are a bit bulky so I had to tuck those in nicely for the same reason. I ran the other end of the direct-wire cord (the part that plugs into the detector) out between the roof interior and the windshield just to the left of the rearview mirror deck. I carefully tucked the cord into the left side of that deck so that only a bit of wire is exposed leading to the detector (photo 10).


I reconfirmed that the detector was properly powered and then I replaced the overhead console. Before replacing it, make sure to snap the outer layer (plastic clips) to the inner layer. You should be able to easily confirm that all the clips are engaged. Now carefully replace the full console by first seating the rear part first and make sure the fat wire harness is out of the way and tucked to the right (passenger side). Now rotate the front of the console up and push upward somewhat forcefully. You will hear the snap as the clips catch. Do the same for the sides and the rear. When you are done, everything should look flush and "factory" (photos 11 & 12).



Obviously, you do this install at your own risk. I can assume no responsibility or liability for any damage or problems you have with your install. I have only outlined what worked for my specific case but it should help you with your install. I would love to hear from anyone who finds this helpful or if you have a better/easier way. I just wanted to try to give back to all of you who have helped me as a lurker in the past.
Thanks,
Scott P.
Would this lighting system be the same on my 2014 M5 please?, I want to install a camera.
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  #59  
Old 08-18-2013, 03:12 AM
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Chuck W. Chuck W. is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnbmw6 View Post
Would this lighting system be the same on my 2014 M5 please?, I want to install a camera.
I installed a dash cam using shawn's method by tapping into the rear view mirror. Easy! Much less complicated than the overhead console.

Quote:
Originally Posted by shawnsheridan View Post
Excellent write up! Thanks. Similarly, I hardwired mine straight into the Mirror Housing and detailed it here:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...32#post6112632
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ED Pick Up on 12/03/2011; US Pick Up on 01/27/1012
Alpine White, M Sport, Blk Nappa, Cold Weather, Luxury Seating, Premium, Premium Sound, Tech, Sports Trans, Active Cruise, Heads-Up

Mods - Quad Exhaust Tips, HID Fog Lights, Clear Front Reflectors, M5 Spoiler, Calipers Painted Black, 12.5 mm Rear Wheel Spacers, 5% Tint Rear - 35% Tint Front - 50% Tint Windshield - BlackVue DR400G-HD II Dash Cam

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  #60  
Old 08-18-2013, 04:33 AM
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octopump octopump is offline
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Chuck - which dash cam do you use?
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  #61  
Old 08-18-2013, 05:27 AM
radarguy radarguy is offline
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If you want to place your dash cam on the dash, look into this method.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...302&highlight=
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  #62  
Old 08-18-2013, 06:30 AM
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octopump octopump is offline
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I distribute the BlackVue DR500GW (1080 30fps 11-bit video from a 2MP Sony CMOS sensor + GPS, WiFi and accelerometer built-in) in the US so I was just curious which model he went with.

When I install these, I just run the power cable neatly (tucked it in the headliner) all the way down to the 12V outlet located in the passenger's feet area.

Will put up pics soon in a separate thread.
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  #63  
Old 08-18-2013, 08:27 AM
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Chuck W. Chuck W. is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by octopump View Post
Chuck - which dash cam do you use?
I put the BlackVue DR400G-HD II Dash Cam in the 535 and the BlackVue Wi-Fi DR500GW-HD in my daughter's BMW. Great products. Besides the original 16GB micro card dieing in the 400, they have worked great.

Shawn's method for hard wiring to the rear view mirror is the way to go. Clean and easy.

Quote:
Originally Posted by octopump View Post
I distribute the BlackVue DR500GW (1080 30fps 11-bit video from a 2MP Sony CMOS sensor + GPS, WiFi and accelerometer built-in) in the US so I was just curious which model he went with.
You should organize a group buy for this. These, IMHO, are a must in today's road rage, litigation happy society.
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ED Pick Up on 12/03/2011; US Pick Up on 01/27/1012
Alpine White, M Sport, Blk Nappa, Cold Weather, Luxury Seating, Premium, Premium Sound, Tech, Sports Trans, Active Cruise, Heads-Up

Mods - Quad Exhaust Tips, HID Fog Lights, Clear Front Reflectors, M5 Spoiler, Calipers Painted Black, 12.5 mm Rear Wheel Spacers, 5% Tint Rear - 35% Tint Front - 50% Tint Windshield - BlackVue DR400G-HD II Dash Cam

Coding by tuesday (aka; itschase) (Chase)

Last edited by Chuck W.; 08-18-2013 at 11:08 AM.
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  #64  
Old 08-18-2013, 09:18 AM
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johnbmw6 johnbmw6 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuck W. View Post
I installed a dash cam using shawn's method by tapping into the rear view mirror. Easy! Much less complicated than the overhead console.
Great Thanks
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  #65  
Old 08-19-2013, 10:13 AM
TX TX is offline
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I have my Excort 9500ix on the bottom left side of the windshield, so it doesn't block my windshield sunscreen when I put it up. Can anyone suggest wires to tap into near the left a pillar? Thanks in advance.
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  #66  
Old 08-19-2013, 12:00 PM
radarguy radarguy is offline
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Use the method described in my post #61 and run the wire from the right to left between the dash cover and the windshield trim. Because that run may be too long for the standard Escort hard-wire cable, you may have to buy a length of thin telephone wire and crimp an RJ-45 to one end.
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  #67  
Old 08-26-2013, 10:37 AM
tularockstar tularockstar is offline
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I bought a 4-piece trim tool set on Ebay for $4 and free delivery!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Needsdecaf View Post
Invest in a set of interior trim removal tools and taking that console off will be easy. Something like this is invaluable:

http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/...rrivals&page=1

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  #68  
Old 08-27-2013, 05:39 PM
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Re: Hardwire Radar Detector Install (F10)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuck W. View Post
I put the BlackVue DR400G-HD II Dash Cam in the 535 and the BlackVue Wi-Fi DR500GW-HD in my daughter's BMW. Great products. Besides the original 16GB micro card dieing in the 400, they have worked great.

Shawn's method for hard wiring to the rear view mirror is the way to go. Clean and easy.



You should organize a group buy for this. These, IMHO, are a must in today's road rage, litigation happy society.


Agreed Chuck. Either that or the selfish and dangerous accident-prone driving habits people display everywhere.

Video footage is priceless. Usually everything is over in seconds, perhaps no chance to get a good look/ remember the offender's plate etc.

I am happy to bang out the DR500GW-HD for fellow festers. Don't want to get in trouble with the mods so I won't post a dollar amount. PM me if you want one, free shipping within the continental US from NYC (get it in 2 business days typically).



Sent from BimmerApp mobile app
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  #69  
Old 09-11-2013, 01:27 PM
pburleson pburleson is offline
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I just ordered and installed the MirrorTap cord for my Passport Max. I went with the 12" cord. I would suggest that anyone doing the same should order the 15" cord. This would be especially true if you plan on using the BlendMount when it comes out.
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  #70  
Old 09-13-2013, 05:57 PM
Akkord29 Akkord29 is offline
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Steps worked perfectly. Had my Valentine wired up to the harness which is under the cover on the windshield but it kept cutting out. Reinstalled it to the overhead and no problems so far. Its been two weeks.
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  #71  
Old 09-14-2013, 04:40 AM
MortgageGod MortgageGod is offline
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Thanks Scott, Great pictures and detail.

I just ordered my 550i the other day. I have a V1 with the concealed display and it is hardwired in my current vehicle (G35). Since I have yet to receive my 550i, I am wondering if anyone has placed the V1 3/4 behind the mirror on the passengers side (this conceals the V1), and if the concealed display would fit in the ash tray?
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  #72  
Old 09-20-2013, 04:54 PM
cncmastr cncmastr is offline
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Thanks for the directions, I used them to make a video which can be found below.

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  #73  
Old 10-09-2013, 01:44 PM
john_malek john_malek is offline
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I tried to follow this on my 2014 535i, but the green brown wire didn't have any power going through it. Did these instructions work for anyone, or did the LCI change the wiring?
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  #74  
Old 10-09-2013, 08:33 PM
PittX52011 PittX52011 is offline
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Thanks for the posts. I was able to open the top console and using a blue T tap that came with escort direct wire kit I applied that to the green-brown cable of the front bundle. Before permanently securing the ground wire , I tried to check the connection first by attaching ground wire to the metal parts inside the car (e.g. the locking hook of the front door inside the door jams, but didn't get any life in my escort. Where can I be wrong. I made sure that t tap went in well. Thanks for the suggestions.
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  #75  
Old 10-09-2013, 08:36 PM
PittX52011 PittX52011 is offline
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I have 2013 F10. I don't have an avometer to confirm if am actually getting power thru my T Tap on green brown wire.
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