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E60 (2004 - 2010)
BMW 5-Series (E60 chassis) was first seen in the Unites States in the fall of 2003 with a 2004 Model Year designation. The E60 is now available as a 528i, 528xi, 535i, 535xi, 550i and a 535xi sports wagon! -- View the E60 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 09-13-2013, 09:38 AM
6825786 6825786 is offline
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Location: Calgary
 
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Mein Auto: 2004 545 M sport
545 overheated message! Please help.

Hello all! Hoping someone could chime in with some ideas as to what could be the issue here. I have a 545 with 42k miles. I have already had the transfer pipe changed, water pump, thermostat, air compressor and recently the altenator. The Oil has been changed every 1500 miles with Castrol 0W 30.
I was driving in a spirited manner today and just as I pulled up to my home, I got the dreaded Engine has overheated message. i immediately turned it off and then opoened the hood to check for leaks, hisses, anything really!!! NOTTA! so I let the car cool down, came back after 30 min manged to get into the hidden menu that shows the temp guage. It read 93 C. I started it and went for a 20 minute drive, being sure to vary engine speed. The temp ranged from 105 - 110 c. The warning never came on again. I also checked to see if the Fan was working, and there is no problem there either. Any clues?

Thanks in advance
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  #2  
Old 09-13-2013, 10:38 AM
H F H F is offline
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Did u change out the sensor on the lower radiator hose ?
I've read about non Oem thermostats don't last, also just recently heard about a bad oil level sensor cause a false overheating message . Here's the thread check it out . Hope it helps u out.
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=718085
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  #3  
Old 09-13-2013, 10:55 AM
6825786 6825786 is offline
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Thanks for the info H F. The thermostat was changed at the Stealer, so its OEM. I have not changed the temp sensor or oil sensor. Worth a shot ! I know these engines are designed to run hot. I s 105-110 C normal?
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  #4  
Old 09-13-2013, 10:59 AM
schpenxel schpenxel is offline
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Every time I check mine it's around 103*C, even going down the highway. It goes up and down a little from there but almost always over 100*C

The weird thing is when sitting in a parking lot, the radiator temp goes up, but the engine temp goes down to under 100*C. I guess it's drying to dump out as much heat as it can so it doesn't end up getting uncontrollably hot
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  #5  
Old 09-13-2013, 11:31 AM
6825786 6825786 is offline
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Thanks schpenxel. I have read so many varying posts stating 105 C is normal, some have even hit 120 C with no warnings. I just find that so high. Just a bit concerned how accurate these readings are, given they could be false too. Driving this car is like playing Russian Roulette! You never know when the DONG of Death will sound!
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  #6  
Old 09-13-2013, 12:45 PM
H F H F is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6825786 View Post
You never know when the DONG of Death will sound!
Ha ha,,, So true. That freaking BLING !! rattles me every time, and can actually feel my wallet open up.. Luckily Ive been having no major problems ,, haven't heard that dread full dong! as you say for a while..
keep us posted on the results
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  #7  
Old 09-13-2013, 12:57 PM
schpenxel schpenxel is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6825786 View Post
Thanks schpenxel. I have read so many varying posts stating 105 C is normal, some have even hit 120 C with no warnings. I just find that so high. Just a bit concerned how accurate these readings are, given they could be false too. Driving this car is like playing Russian Roulette! You never know when the DONG of Death will sound!
haha, the "gong" always freaks me out in the winter.. when it first starts getting cold enough to set off the warning that the temp is getting close to freezing. I'm always like oh crap.. what's wrong with this damn thing now?

Personally I think the reason they didn't put a temp gauge on the cluster of these cars is because they run so hot and would have people freaking out. But that's just my thoughts on it. I also think that's why they destroy gaskets/seals so bad
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  #8  
Old 09-13-2013, 01:09 PM
6825786 6825786 is offline
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Just for peace of mind , I think I will program that "DONG" into a more fitting noise like "BEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEP" not unlike the old toyota's used to have in the 80's. The DONG" is like getting a slap on one side of your face while being kissed on the other! The 'BEEEEEP is more fitting letting you know that all hell has broken loose and you'll need a second motgage!! LOL.

Ok so, I went for a few spirted runs post warning, and no issue. Temp at 105 while driving in the city and at times 108 at a red light. I checked for leaks, etc, with all good. The next step...temp sensor. Not sure if my fan is kicking up to the second speed.

Thanks for all your input
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  #9  
Old 09-13-2013, 03:17 PM
6825786 6825786 is offline
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UPDATE!! I went yet for another ride..this time about an HOUR. on the HWY and again in the city. NO warnings. Ran 105-108C. I came home and turned on the AC to MAX in idle. The Fan kicked it to its higher speed as it should and the temp dropped abot 1-2C. Here is the funny thing. After I turned off the AC the fan slowed down and waited I (in idle ) about 2 min, the temp started to drop rapidly! Went from a steady 108 to 93C!!! I then went for another drive only for it to come back up to 105-108C. So the question I have...Is the thermostat open and close function directly related to the AC somehow? The good thing is no Overheat warnings! The car runs like a champ...so far...
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  #10  
Old 09-13-2013, 08:29 PM
6825786 6825786 is offline
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Found This on BMW workshop Manuals on line. Its for the 6 series BUT with the N62

6 Series 645Ci (N62) Coupe

accordingly. If necessary, the coolant pump can even be switched off altogether, for example to heat up the
coolant quickly during the warm-up phase.
If the engine is not running but very hot, the coolant pump will also work while the vehicle is out of use. Cooling
output can thus be called up regardless of engine speed.
The heat management now permits various characteristic maps to be used as a basis for controlling the coolant
pump, over and above the map thermostat. In this way, the engine control unit can adapt the engine temperature
to the driving characteristics.

The engine control unit regulates the following temperature ranges:
112 C = Economy
105 C = Normal
95 C = High
80 C = High and regulation by the map thermostat

If the vehicle handling causes the engine control unit to detect the economical operating range Economy, the DME regulates to a higher temperature (112 C).
In this temperature range, the engine is operated with a relatively fuel requirement. The friction inside the engine is reduced at higher temperature. The temperature increase thus favours lower fuel consumption in the low loadrange.

In the High and regulation by the map thermostat mode, the driver wants to use optimised power outputdevelopment of the engine. To achieve this, the temperature in the cylinder head is lowered to 80 C. Thislowering leads to a better cylinder filling, which leads in turn to an increase in engine torque. The engine control
unit can now regulate a certain operating range, adapted to the relevant driving situation. This makes it possible to use the cooling system to influence consumption and performance
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  #11  
Old 09-13-2013, 08:34 PM
schpenxel schpenxel is offline
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The water pump cannot literally be switched off like it can on newer models with electric water pumps. I am assuming that it means it can block coolant flow entirely via the thermostat?
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  #12  
Old 09-14-2013, 09:55 AM
6825786 6825786 is offline
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good point schpenxel, I just had the thermostat changed 1.5 years ago. It probably has less than 10K km on it. Actually changed by the stealer, so I didn't skimp on this vital part. Could it be buggered up already

just odd that the temp is always hovering around 105-108C (except when the AC is on) it drops 10-15 C.....I also heard that our OEM thermostats are rates at 105 C
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  #13  
Old 09-14-2013, 06:59 PM
schpenxel schpenxel is offline
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I don't think you have a problem personally--these things run hot on purpose

I would, however, take a good look for any debris, grass, tiny rocks, etc. between the radiator/condenser. Mine is damn near full it's got so much in it and I'm planning on cleaning it out soon--in my corvette days cleaning that out made a HUGE difference in temps. After cleaning it out I could sit in 100*F+ temps, stop and go traffic, AC on, and not get much over 200*F
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  #14  
Old 09-19-2013, 10:25 AM
6825786 6825786 is offline
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I already checked for leaves and debris etc. All is super clean! I called the stealer as well as researched the thermostat specs ...and indeed they are rated at 105 C. I cannot reproduce the overheated warning ...even at 110 C! I am stumped! I have a feeling its a sensor issue that fails to prompt the fan to kick into the higher speed.
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  #15  
Old 09-20-2013, 02:48 PM
6825786 6825786 is offline
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So I also called the stealer today and gave them the scenario. They stated that the cars are designed to withstand a lot of heat and just to drive it while monitoring any future warnings. I also spoke to my Indy that said the same thing..the car just ways to operate at 105-108C ...my power is great and she still goes hard....not sure what to do...i want to get this fixed before winter sets in...any advice in addition to what was already said would be greatly appreciated!
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  #16  
Old 09-20-2013, 03:10 PM
schpenxel schpenxel is offline
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As I said before, I don't think you have a real problem. The chart above clearly shows 112C being a temp it's designed to operate at, why would 110C now cause an overheating warning? These aren't small block chevy's. They just run that hot by design
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  #17  
Old 09-21-2013, 11:49 AM
bimmerfan52 bimmerfan52 is offline
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The N62 is definitely designed to run at higher temperatures. They claim that fuel efficiency (complete combustion) is the primary reason.

The coolant system is pressurized to allow coolant temperatures up to 120C before coolant boiling.

But this design probably shortens the time if the coolant system fails before the all-aluminum engine begins to cry "uncle".

Regular assessment of the health of the cooling system and replacement of any questionable parts is far cheaper than breaking down on the road, and worse risking serious damage to gaskets or heads by limping to a safe roadside location.
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  #18  
Old 09-21-2013, 12:35 PM
6825786 6825786 is offline
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thanks guys! Sorry its my OCD that has won the mental battle here..LOL! I guess when I received the overheated warning, I have been on a quest to determine the root cause. Just do not know why other members vehicles are running cooler. I will ride it out and monitor the temps. Input from this forum is invaluable! Thanks to all who jumped in with their perspectives!
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  #19  
Old 10-07-2013, 03:23 PM
6825786 6825786 is offline
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incorrect temp readings?

Hello again,

does anyone know where exactly (what sensor) the temperature in the secret menu for the coolant is derived from? The reason I ask, is that I purchased a laser temperature gun (tested it for accuracy already with house thermostat) I aimed it at every coolant transfer hose I could see/find including the thermostat and the maximum reading I received was 90 C while the car's was giving me a reading of 107 C. Do I have a sensor malfunction somewhere perhaps?

Thanks in advance
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  #20  
Old 10-07-2013, 04:36 PM
schpenxel schpenxel is offline
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Possibly, but the sensors are also touching the water and pulling the actual water temp, while you're only able to read the temp of the metal surrounding the water, so it's not surprising it's a little lower

Couldn't hurt to change the sensors though
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  #21  
Old 10-07-2013, 05:25 PM
6825786 6825786 is offline
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Thanks schpenxel. I actually read the temperature while pointing the laser at the rubber hoses while the car was running and the heater was turned on (to ensure coolant flow).

You have a good point though...the hoses could be insulating a few degrees i guess...but 17-18 C difference just seems like a large discrepency.
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  #22  
Old 10-07-2013, 07:41 PM
schpenxel schpenxel is offline
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Yeah that's a pretty big difference, but I dunno. If I remember correctly there are two sensors, one right near the thermostat, and another somewhere near or in the radiator--I know in INPA you can look at the water temp coming out of the engine and water temp coming out of the radiator. I was always surprised at how much the temp drops between those two, especially on cold days on the interstate (not sure why since really the radiator is just doing it's job..)
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  #23  
Old 10-07-2013, 08:59 PM
6825786 6825786 is offline
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I tested the temp at the lower hose, where I found a temp sensor as well as all connected hoses to the tehrmostat. None of the temperatures read close to what was indicated.

Thanks for your input though
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