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E60 (2004 - 2010)
BMW 5-Series (E60 chassis) was first seen in the Unites States in the fall of 2003 with a 2004 Model Year designation. The E60 is now available as a 528i, 528xi, 535i, 535xi, 550i and a 535xi sports wagon! -- View the E60 Wiki

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  #26  
Old 06-23-2013, 04:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by legend700 View Post
kskane:
Please check the attachments. You only need to code CAS.
Thanks again Legen700.

Could anyone of the experts here confirm if the following steps I have taken are correct and do I need to change/edit or do anything else?

Purpose: Changing my 90aH Lead acid battery on my E60 M54 2004 with a 95aH AGM battery.

Steps carried out so far:
1. Replaced the physical battery, perfect exact match.
2. Updated VO using NCSExpert by removing B090 and adding A090 and then performing FA_WRITE to CAS & LMA modules.
3. Update CAS for KLASSE_BATTERIE from 90ah to 90ah_agm using NCSExpert
4. Registering the new battery via Tools32 using MS450S0 file and running the job "steuern_batterietausch_registrieren"
5. Performing Battery Swap and clearing battery histogram via INPA.

Have I missed anything or did anything wrong?
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  #27  
Old 06-23-2013, 06:41 AM
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Your coding looks good. Steps 4. or 5. take care of the registration. Either one does the job. Not sure clearing the battery histogram is necessary since INPA registration re-sets all values. You can read out the current values with INPA. Under "Powermanagement" where you found F5 to execute Registration, hit F2 (PM Feld 2) and F3 (PM Feld 3) to check the new parameters. Most likely the AH will show as 91. It seems to be normal that AH is incremented by 1 each time a new battery is registered.
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  #28  
Old 06-23-2013, 06:47 AM
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Here is what the INPA screens look like:
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  #29  
Old 06-23-2013, 03:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by legend700 View Post
Here is what the INPA screens look like:
Thanks Legend700 for confirming nothing else is required. I did reset the histogram cause I read it somewhere that if that is not done, might lead to high battery drainage. Better be safe is what I was thinking .

How do I tell if the 95Ah AGM is being handled by the IBS properly, my images are attached of the new battery indicating 91ah. Also, how do I tell if the battery is being charged completely or not? It does show 12.3/4/5V.
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  #30  
Old 06-23-2013, 04:22 PM
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INPA Infofeld2 shows your current charge at 64.06%. Fully charge your battery with a charger or better with a battery tender; then take a read-out once a week and see how everything works out. Keep the charge as close to 75%+ as possible. The ECU keeps track of the past 6 days.
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  #31  
Old 06-24-2013, 05:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by legend700 View Post
INPA Infofeld2 shows your current charge at 64.06%. Fully charge your battery with a charger or better with a battery tender; then take a read-out once a week and see how everything works out. Keep the charge as close to 75%+ as possible. The ECU keeps track of the past 6 days.
Legend700, thank you for that information. I went for a drive of about 100K's and my battery charge went up by only 5.39% and now sits at 85% charged. Will a 95Ah battery that is coded with 90Ah profile, get charged to a full 100%? Have you ever seen yours or anyone's battery at 100% charged? What is the max it can go to that I can expect to charge, and is driving around the only way to charge it?

Also, another silly questions, is the point highlighted in the image my negative terminal in the hood?
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  #32  
Old 06-24-2013, 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by kskane View Post
Legend700, thank you for that information. I went for a drive of about 100K's and my battery charge went up by only 5.39% and now sits at 85% charged. Will a 95Ah battery that is coded with 90Ah profile, get charged to a full 100%? Have you ever seen yours or anyone's battery at 100% charged? What is the max it can go to that I can expect to charge, and is driving around the only way to charge it?

Also, another silly questions, is the point highlighted in the image my negative terminal in the hood?
I will jump into this fine thread with a little more than I know:

It all starts with "BMW Efficient Dynamics". A part of that system is regeneration. Here's how it works.
1. IF your battery is under 80% charged, the alternator is ON and charges you up to 80%.
2. From 80% to 100% the alternator is OFF and just spins. At steady state cruising.
3. The 80% to 100% is the regeneration "space". When you either decelerate or brake the alternator goes ON and provides power to the battery. The "load" seen by the alternator actually has a slowing effect on the car and is like a (mini) brake. Thus it is "regeneration" much like the hybrids use(?). This allows you to go above the 80%. you are actually capturing energy from deceleration.

SO if you set your car to run on the highway for (100K) and neither decelerate or brake you will never go above the 80%. If you decelerate/brake a lot, you will be between 80% to 100%.

At first look it seems clever, then you realize that all this is designed to save ~ 1% fuel.

BTW just about any metal frame/ engine piece could be used for a negative terminal. Except those that are isolated by rubber or placed in a difficult to reach area. Usually a bolt/stud. Short answer is yes that looks like a good spot, except the paint is not so good. The bolts nearby may be as good.

Last edited by njlou; 06-24-2013 at 06:08 PM.
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  #33  
Old 06-24-2013, 07:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kskane View Post
Legend700, thank you for that information. I went for a drive of about 100K's and my battery charge went up by only 5.39% and now sits at 85% charged. Will a 95Ah battery that is coded with 90Ah profile, get charged to a full 100%? Have you ever seen yours or anyone's battery at 100% charged? What is the max it can go to that I can expect to charge, and is driving around the only way to charge it?

Also, another silly questions, is the point highlighted in the image my negative terminal in the hood?
Currently my charge stands at over 99%, but I use a battery tender every one to two weeks. Under normal driving conditions you will hardly ever reach 100% full charge. The previous post explains the EfficientDynamics system very well.
Having a 95Ah battery coded 90Ah should not be a problem.
The highlighted post is the correct negative terminal.
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  #34  
Old 06-25-2013, 04:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by njlou View Post
...
It all starts with "BMW Efficient Dynamics". A part of that system is regeneration. Here's how it works.
1. IF your battery is under 80% charged, the alternator is ON and charges you up to 80%.
2. From 80% to 100% the alternator is OFF and just spins. At steady state cruising.
3. The 80% to 100% is the regeneration "space". When you either decelerate or brake the alternator goes ON and provides power to the battery. The "load" seen by the alternator actually has a slowing effect on the car and is like a (mini) brake. Thus it is "regeneration" much like the hybrids use(?). This allows you to go above the 80%. you are actually capturing energy from deceleration.
...
Thank you njlou, that was some good information on BMW car battery charging.

Quote:
Originally Posted by legend700 View Post
Currently my charge stands at over 99%, but I use a battery tender every one to two weeks. Under normal driving conditions you will hardly ever reach 100% full charge. The previous post explains the EfficientDynamics system very well.
Having a 95Ah battery coded 90Ah should not be a problem.
The highlighted post is the correct negative terminal.
Thanks Legend700, can I ask if you use battery tender connect to the hood points to charge your battery or you charged your battery to 100% before installing it in your car?
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  #35  
Old 06-25-2013, 05:26 AM
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I fully charged the new battery before installation, not knowing its state of charge. For battery maintenance I use the connectors under the hood. I installed a permanent quick disconnect extension cable as per attached.
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  #36  
Old 06-25-2013, 08:35 PM
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I fully charged the new battery before installation, not knowing its state of charge. For battery maintenance I use the connectors under the hood. I installed a permanent quick disconnect extension cable as per attached.
Thanks, so basically the quick disconnect extension cable is mainly for connecting the battery charger for maintenance charging as needed in case the car is sitting for a while? Did you made the cable or bought it? Can you post the other end of the cable where it ends in your vehicle, looks like a good idea?
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  #37  
Old 06-26-2013, 06:24 AM
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This is the battery tender I have, and I bought their Ring Terminal Harness as well: http://batterytender.com/products/au...-at-1-25a.html
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  #38  
Old 08-16-2013, 07:39 PM
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End All Battery Replacement Thread

Changed my battery today with the Advance Auto version. Many thanks to the OP and contributors to this thread. I'm not going to register it. Indy quote was $90. I figure with the replacement warranty I'm covered. Even without that I would still rather add some $ to the $90 and get a new one.

With the HUGE50 code came to $140.99


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Last edited by BM109R; 08-16-2013 at 07:44 PM.
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  #39  
Old 09-17-2013, 04:31 PM
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Quick questions: Can you go from a FLA battery to an AGM battery? My understanding is that the AGM batter is better. But can you make the switch in the instance that one has FLA? Would that affect the car? I would obviously make sure to register the battery.
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  #40  
Old 09-17-2013, 09:54 PM
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YOu would have to Program the whole car first to switch from FLA to AGM. Only then you can register the new battery. YOu will need to reprogram all the computers in the car for AGM.. it is not a simple process. It took over 4 hours at the dealer.
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  #41  
Old 09-18-2013, 11:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BayAreaE60530i View Post
Quick questions: Can you go from a FLA battery to an AGM battery? My understanding is that the AGM batter is better. But can you make the switch in the instance that one has FLA? Would that affect the car? I would obviously make sure to register the battery.
The AGM battery has to be coded and registered to the car

Quote:
Originally Posted by Maini View Post
YOu would have to Program the whole car first to switch from FLA to AGM. Only then you can register the new battery. YOu will need to reprogram all the computers in the car for AGM.. it is not a simple process. It took over 4 hours at the dealer.
It is actually a simple process. Dealer computers are only able to operate in a certain manner. They cannot update one module without having to update all modules, no way around that for them.

Someone who has NCS Expert and knows what they're doing, the process would take less than 10 minutes.
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  #42  
Old 09-18-2013, 01:12 PM
BayAreaE60530i BayAreaE60530i is offline
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Ok so i went out to my car, and determined that its an FLA battery since it has a white top. Now im having some trouble deciding what to do because im getting a couple different quotes from various places:

Dealer quoting me $400 ($250 battery, $150 install/register)
Indy #1 quoting me $300 ($250 battery, $50 install/register) OR $50 to install/register if I buy my own battery
Indy #2 quoting me $280 (new battery and install/register)

Now I would ideally like to purchase my own battery at Autozone like Geaff500 stated since the beginning of this thread and pay the $50 to register it. But I dont know how to find which FLA battery to purchase based on the fact that Geaff500 stated "IGNORE the AutoZone battery finder thing, it's COMPLETELY WRONG and spits out the wrong battery". My understanding is that battery examples he has given are all AGM? If someone could guide me a bit, I would be really grateful
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  #43  
Old 09-18-2013, 01:23 PM
schpenxel schpenxel is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BayAreaE60530i View Post
Ok so i went out to my car, and determined that its an FLA battery since it has a white top. Now im having some trouble deciding what to do because im getting a couple different quotes from various places:

Dealer quoting me $400 ($250 battery, $150 install/register)
Indy #1 quoting me $300 ($250 battery, $50 install/register) OR $50 to install/register if I buy my own battery
Indy #2 quoting me $280 (new battery and install/register)

Now I would ideally like to purchase my own battery at Autozone like Geaff500 stated since the beginning of this thread and pay the $50 to register it. But I dont know how to find which FLA battery to purchase based on the fact that Geaff500 stated "IGNORE the AutoZone battery finder thing, it's COMPLETELY WRONG and spits out the wrong battery". My understanding is that battery examples he has given are all AGM? If someone could guide me a bit, I would be really grateful

Option 2 w/changing the battery yourself is the cheapest option

The part number at auto zone is literally "H8-AGM". Can't mess that up

Install it, drive to the indy, have him register it (this is assuming he is not just registering it, but will actually make the changes to the car's VO so it knows it has an AGM battery)

/thread

(Here's a link http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...9459_754637_0_ )

I have this one in my car now

(on second thought, for that little savings, I'd just about just let the Indy do it and be done with it)

Last edited by schpenxel; 09-18-2013 at 01:28 PM.
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  #44  
Old 09-18-2013, 01:48 PM
BayAreaE60530i BayAreaE60530i is offline
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Originally Posted by schpenxel View Post
Option 2 w/changing the battery yourself is the cheapest option

The part number at auto zone is literally "H8-AGM". Can't mess that up

Install it, drive to the indy, have him register it (this is assuming he is not just registering it, but will actually make the changes to the car's VO so it knows it has an AGM battery)

/thread

(Here's a link http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...9459_754637_0_ )

I have this one in my car now

(on second thought, for that little savings, I'd just about just let the Indy do it and be done with it)
Ok that makes it a lot clearer. So Autozone is charging $170 for the H8-AGM battery. Plus the $50 install, i should get out the door for about $220. Now, when you mention that i need to make sure that the indy is not just registering the battery, but to make sure the car knows is has an AGM battery, what question (or how should i phrase the question) to ask the mechanic to make sure I know he knows what he's doing? Did that make sense? I want to make sure that the mechanic understands that he needs to recode the VO to understand its an AGM battery. How do I verify that he knows/understands this? And what does "VO" stand for? Sorry im new to this haha
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  #45  
Old 09-18-2013, 01:51 PM
schpenxel schpenxel is offline
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VO means vehicle order. It's basically a list of codes for all the options that came on your car. When you add an AGM battery, you would add another option to the list. I think it's something like "A90" or "A090" for a 90AH AGM battery (been a while since I did mine..)

If he doesn't know what that means, I'd run. Other option is learning to do it yourself
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  #46  
Old 09-18-2013, 02:02 PM
BayAreaE60530i BayAreaE60530i is offline
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Great info brother.. Im going to call the indy now, and if he sounds likes he knows what im talking about, then im going to do it on my lunch break.
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  #47  
Old 09-19-2013, 11:00 AM
BayAreaE60530i BayAreaE60530i is offline
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SUCCESS ! FLA (white top) battery to AGM (black top) battery.

Bought the Duralast H8-AGM from Autozone in Santa Clara. $169.00 plus tax. Took the battery to Motorspeed West in Santa Clara as well. They installed and registered the battery for $40. Spent about $210 total. Active steering light came on after the new battery, but mehcanic said to drive the car for a few minutes and it will go away (which it did).

BAY AREA HEADS: Go see Bill at Motorspeed West in Santa Clara, knows his **** about cars. Good Yelp reviews. All BMW's in the parking lot and inside the shop. Great customer service. Affordable prices.
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  #48  
Old 09-19-2013, 11:57 AM
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Had a discussion with my indy about this, and he basically said that you have over 6 years with your current, non AGM battery, so what is it that you really expect the AGM battery to do for you for the extra money? You garage your car, you have a tender, you have had zero problems, what do you hope to gain? I can do the AGM if you want, but really, what for?

Good question. I don't really have a good answer.
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  #49  
Old 09-23-2013, 11:57 AM
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I would reply 'For the same reason I am not driving a Dodge Caravan'
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Old 09-23-2013, 02:13 PM
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