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E36 /7 Z3 (1996-2002)
E36/7 Z3 roadster and coupe talk with our gurus here.

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  #76  
Old 09-18-2013, 06:29 PM
marty505 marty505 is offline
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As if there wasn't enough info. out there on this here's a write-up from across the pond on how to do the seat bushings. http://www.zroadster.net/forum/viewt...402&highlight= I bought my bushings from a fellow in England who makes them and plan to put them in this winter.
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  #77  
Old 09-18-2013, 06:38 PM
pieceofwork pieceofwork is offline
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Mein Auto: 97 Z3 2.8 Automatic
Quote:
Originally Posted by vintage42 View Post
http://www.whalenshiftmachine.com/in...f78814e34fbdf2
http://www.bimmerdiffs.com/products/...mod-fix-kit-z3

I would think any of the replacement bushings are good for life. The original bushings are some kind of rubber or plastic that liquified with age, or perhaps from exposure to the screw lubricant. The old bushings just disappeared into a butyl-like goo that takes a long time remove. I started removing the bulk of the residue with a screwdriver blade, then softened the remainder with gasoline and wiped it out with paper towels, then used carb cleaner spray to remove the last traces.

I studied all the DIYs and videos, and would just add a couple of tips:
1. Run the seat back to access the front nuts, then forward to expose the rear bolts, then run the seat back to put it over its rails so they don't stick out.
2. Tilt seat inward and use a 2x4 block between the seat and the sill to hold it up while unplugging the connectors. After this point, do not use the car's key. Those who do use the key, are those who forgot to run their seat back, so they do that and trigger their airbag light.
3. Seat is heavy, get a helper to lift it out and in. Failure to get a helper allowed my sharp seat rail to cut through two towels and scratch the rocker panel going back in.
4. As soon as screws are out, use a nail or pencil point to count the threads showing on each screw and write it down. Should be the same on both, depends on where you stopped the seat going back, mine were 20.
5. When screwing the new bushing holder back on the screw, count the threads again to put it back where it was.
6. When replacing each re-bushed screw, insert the flexible drive rod into it and then insert the end of the screw into its guide hole inside the rail, which will then direct the drive rod into the motor at the bottom. If the screw won't hold the end of the flexible drive rod, put a little tab of duct tape on the end of the rod and jam the rod into the screw's hole.
7. Note that the guide hole has a plastic insert that can come loose. Must use the insert because it centers and acts like a bearing for the end of the screw. If the end of the screw won't go into the plastic insert, tap it in.
I would add: do not 'over grease' AKA the youtube video where the rod threads are slathered in grease. IMO, too much grease is almost worse than too little, it attracts contaminates and you can easily get grease on the carpet during the re-install.

Also my passenger seat had a plastic bushing on each threaded rod, which I assume was to prevent the seat from traveling too far forward (air bag safety measure?). Not sure why it was there, but I did put it back in.
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  #78  
Old 09-19-2013, 01:32 AM
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vintage42 vintage42 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pieceofwork View Post
I would add: do not 'over grease' AKA the youtube video where the rod threads are slathered in grease. IMO, too much grease is almost worse than too little, it attracts contaminates and you can easily get grease on the carpet during the re-install....
It does not matter how much grease is slathered on the rods because no excess is left on the rods after the threaded block is run up and down the threads. I can't imagine not doing that ;-)
The BimmerDiff kit came with enough lube to do two seats. It is a strange lube, stiff and sticky. Not a grease, but a thin spreadable sticky material that would stand up in its container and then level itself like silly putty. There is not enough to slather, and a little goes a long way. It is the perfect lube for seat screws and scissor jack screws.
The DIYs do note the plastic bushings on the ends of the passenger rod. I haven't done that seat yet and will be curious to see them.

Last edited by vintage42; 09-19-2013 at 01:52 AM.
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  #79  
Old 09-20-2013, 08:35 AM
Elderuser Elderuser is offline
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Mein Auto: 1998 Z3 2.8; 2003 530i
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EOD Guy View Post
Yes,
PM with your email address, I'll send you a detailed power point slide show on how I fixed it.
Thanks. Nokaoi37@gmail.com
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  #80  
Old 10-09-2013, 06:45 PM
Mungo So Cal Mungo So Cal is offline
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Would someone still following this thread email the ppt? Hoping for something a little more clear than the waycool version. Pm me and I will reply with my email. I have a set of replacements on the way from bimmerdif (with tilt hw). Hooray!
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  #81  
Old 10-09-2013, 07:00 PM
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vintage42 vintage42 is offline
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I got the combination kit, too. I did the driver seat OK. But I could not disconnect the passenger seat airbag module because it was anchored up tight under the seat. so on that seat I only did the tilt mod. Later I read that the module can be removed from the seat bottom by twisting it 1/8 turn and pulling it down.
As for PPT you ask for, I have not heard of it, and wonder if you will ever get it. If you don't get it, I can post a half dozen DIY links on the seat bushings.
And, unlike BimmerForum, the Search function works really well here, so you can find them yourself.
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  #82  
Old 10-09-2013, 07:27 PM
Mungo So Cal Mungo So Cal is offline
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I have come across many walkthroughs as well and tips related to the walkthroughs. I hope the prep pays off!
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  #83  
Old 10-10-2013, 07:31 AM
pieceofwork pieceofwork is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mungo So Cal View Post
Would someone still following this thread email the ppt? Hoping for something a little more clear than the waycool version. Pm me and I will reply with my email. I have a set of replacements on the way from bimmerdif (with tilt hw). Hooray!
Are you replacing the bushings in your exsisting seats? Someone was kind enought to send me the PPT, but I've since deleted it, suggest you post your email up in this thread - it might take a few days but you'll get it.
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  #84  
Old 10-10-2013, 03:50 PM
Mungo So Cal Mungo So Cal is offline
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Yes, I will replace at least the driver's side. After more poking around, I did find a briefing for download on the waycool site. I am pretty sure it is the one mentioned here. Thanks for the tos guys. Will let you know how it goes!
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  #85  
Old 06-25-2014, 09:17 AM
HDMIKE HDMIKE is offline
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Mein Auto: 1996 BMW Z3
Seat Bushings

New here and have a question please.

I recently replaced the seat bushings on my 1996 Z3. One seat went perfect but I lost track of the thread count on the other seat. Is there an easy way to start over so that both rails are even? I thought about just screwing both skewers on to about 4 or so threads which should put the seat in the fully back position and even. Will this work? Thanks so much for any help.

EMail: hdmike@bryanonline.net

Last edited by HDMIKE; 06-25-2014 at 09:22 AM. Reason: Adding EMail
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  #86  
Old 06-25-2014, 09:52 AM
Paul P Paul P is offline
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Mein Auto: 1997 Z3
Seat Bushings

The point is to get them even so it wont bind when it moves. I just measured mine with a ruler and then one wouldn't go together far enough for the bolt to go back in so I just rotated it half a turn and it just fell together. I also had a driver seat belt light on before and after reseating the connectors and having it reset again it never came back. Wish you had someone close who had done this because it's simple afterwards, not as big a deal as I thought. Good luck, Paul Another thought, I disconnected my battery because the seats still have power with the key off. Hardest part is cleaning the raw rubber from the old bushings and sanding the new ones to fit. You also need help to hold that seat while you do the connectors.

Last edited by Paul P; 06-25-2014 at 09:59 AM.
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  #87  
Old 06-25-2014, 10:00 AM
HDMIKE HDMIKE is offline
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Mein Auto: 1996 BMW Z3
Seat Bushings

Thanks Paul,

The concept sounds simple. I will give it a shot and just ensure they are even once bolted in. I have a power supply hooked up to the seats, so I should be able to test for any binding issues.

Thx again...
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  #88  
Old 06-25-2014, 10:13 AM
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vintage42 vintage42 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul P View Post
... get them even... I just measured mine with a ruler... You also need help to hold that seat while you do the connectors.
I counted threads with a pencil tip before removing the screws, and screwed them back the same number of threads. I used pieces of 2x4 under the seat to prop it up while doing the connectors.
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  #89  
Old 06-30-2014, 02:53 AM
Cheddar57 Cheddar57 is offline
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Mein Auto: 2001 Z3 3.0i Roadster
Can I get the powerpoint also?
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