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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)

E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 07-23-2013, 09:37 AM
Maxeah Maxeah is offline
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Location: Wayland,ma
 
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True puzzle

I have a real challenge for the experts out there. I will explain issue then tell all I have done so far. I recently purchased a 1998 528i, I can tell it was poorly maintained but for 1600 bucks I needed a project car, got bored, all my other cars run perfectly, and I like a challenge. It had an overheating issue when I purchased. So far I have replaced, water pump thermo, belts, rebuilt aux fan, new resistors, exp tank, everything cooling. As far as oil, fuel,new ccv,totally plugged, ripped diaphram. While intake was off replaced all rubber hoses, gaskets. Cleaned IAC
And everything that didn't move. I also performed compr test with results of 230 at all cylinders, and leakdown no more than 6% across the board.
So the problem is, I am getting vapor from exhaust at idle, and it is very hot here.
Also I should add that I had disconnected throttle body heater hoses and looped then back together. Since the only 2 places that I know of, that coolant is near combustion or intake.
I am stumped where vapor from exhaust could be generated.
My question is, Is there another place, that coolant and combustion, intake air meet?
I want this to be my wifes daily car, and I don't want to hear that I wasted all this time and effort. Any thoughts? Anything would be appreciated.
Thanks, Alan
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  #2  
Old 07-23-2013, 09:58 AM
Burning2nd Burning2nd is online now
Under the lift arms
Location: Under the lift arms
 
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Mein Auto: E39 540, E36 328is, E83x3
Drive it , get it to normal opp temp then report back

Sounds like your afraid of a head gasket
Prolly not the case

Seems to be a lot of compression checking goin on here these days

In 20 years of wrenching I think I've done it once or twice

( that's off topic but)


Car needs to be ran . Get it Rollin again and see what else needs to be repaired
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  #3  
Old 07-23-2013, 10:01 AM
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525isport 525isport is offline
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Mein Auto: 2003 e39 525i sport (uk)
after doing all the work on the car did you drive the car and how may miles did you drive? i only ask because from my experience after a vehicle is parked or work being done on intake exhaust there is always some oil or moisture buildup in the exhaust system and driving on the highway for a few miles usually clears it up.

Burning2nd beat me to it while i was typing ...
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2003 525i sport uk import .see pic ^
1997 300 Tdi Landrover Defender

Last edited by 525isport; 07-23-2013 at 10:04 AM.
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  #4  
Old 07-23-2013, 10:05 AM
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Flybot Flybot is online now
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Mein Auto: '98 528
Drive it and monitor coolant level. Thats about all you can do. It doesnt sound like a big deal unless its leaving a cloud of smoke and steam.
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  #5  
Old 07-23-2013, 11:56 AM
Maxeah Maxeah is offline
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Location: Wayland,ma
 
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Great advice guys, I am waiting for a rad temp. Air temp sensor.
I actually want to replace thermo again, don't think opening at 92 degr.
I needed to replace on side of road, originally when I attempted to drive home.
Had to get at auto zone, no choice. Anywho, as soon as I get those in and get bumper cover painted, and get reinstalled,
Also not to mention registered. I will get onto highway, and have someone follow me. And report back. Fingerers crossed.
ThAnks for advise
Maxeah aka Alan
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  #6  
Old 09-22-2013, 09:12 AM
Maxeah Maxeah is offline
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Location: Wayland,ma
 
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True puzzle

Hi all,
Sooooooo, finally gave in and had a great BMW Tech, Autobahn, Natick Ma
Diagnose. Very cool he inserted a fiber-optic cable into spark plug hole, pressurized the colland system, low and behold drip,drip,drip cylinder #3.
So I thought it was worth my timeand give it a shot, since The car would be a big paperweight. Actually,much easier than anticipated. After head was removed, gasket was not bad, but every cooling passage on block and head was plugged up with head gasket repair crap. Also head gasket holes were totally clogged up with this gunk. After 3 hours of sandblasting, water blasting and wire pipe cleaners I got both block and head clean as new.i am waiting for new headbolts(forgot to order) to reassemble.
Moral on this story, Don't use that crap, even as a last resort.
Alan


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  #7  
Old 09-22-2013, 09:51 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Location: San Jose, California
 
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Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxeah View Post
he inserted a fiber-optic cable into spark plug hole, pressurized the colland system, low and behold drip,drip,drip cylinder #3.
I'm confused.
Do you have a crack in cylinder 3?

If so, how is cleaning the passageways and replacing the good head gasket going to help?
Or, was it dripping from the head gasket and not from a crack?

Or was it was dripping from a crack, typing /crack F3 in the VERY best of E39 Links should reveal how others solved the problem, e.g.,
- Welding the crack between cylinder #3 and the water jacket on the exhaust side (1)

If it was from the headgasket, typing /headgasket F3 should this, among others:
- Replacing the M54 head gasket (1)

See also:
- Summary advice to provide users who suspect a major engine repair due to overheating (1) (2) (3) (4) & how to test an engine for a blown head gasket, cracked heads, a warped block, stripped head bolt threads, cam seizures, contaminated bearings, coolant hydrolock, or piston, ring, or valve damage (1) (2) & what are the major factors in deciding whether to rebuild the engine, replace the engine, or sell the car (1) & a DIY for replacing the I6 M54 head gasket (1) (2) & replacing the V8 M62TU head gasket (1) & why these engines are so prone to heat-related damage in the first place (1) & welding the crack between cylinder #3 and the water jacket on the exhaust side (1) & what engine swaps are most recommended (1) (2) (3) & where to obtain a new or rebuilt head (1) replacement short block or long block (1) (2) & how to lift & remove the engine (1) & the most recent real-world results from the last 50 people faced with similar blown engine problems from which this advice came from (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) (9) (10) (11) (12) (13) (14) (15) (16) (17) (18) (19) (20) (21) (22) (23) (24) (25) (26) (27) (28) (29) (30) (31) (32) (33) (34) (35) (36) (37) (38) (39) (40) (41) (42) (43) (44) (45) (46) (47) (48) (49) (50)

EDIT:
Regarding the clogged passageways, I will cross reference to this thread:
- What is Rislone or Bars Stop Leak or Bar's Head Gasket Fix and what will it do in your BMW (1)
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Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need

Last edited by bluebee; 09-22-2013 at 10:00 AM.
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  #8  
Old 09-22-2013, 09:59 AM
Maxeah Maxeah is offline
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Location: Wayland,ma
 
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True puzzle

No, not a crack, the head gasket deformed from extreme pressure and it seems that the head gasket repair stuff actually expanded


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  #9  
Old 09-22-2013, 10:03 AM
Maxeah Maxeah is offline
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Location: Wayland,ma
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 18
Mein Auto: 528I
True puzzle

Sorry sent too soon i am gaking photos of Click image for larger version

Name:	ImageUploadedByBimmerApp1379869266.954074.jpg
Views:	43
Size:	22.0 KB
ID:	398194 old head gasket. As I was saying there is a bump next two cylinder three that should not be there, that is the hg repair gunk.Click image for larger version

Name:	ImageUploadedByBimmerApp1379869392.380473.jpg
Views:	42
Size:	23.0 KB
ID:	398195


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  #10  
Old 09-22-2013, 10:03 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
Seek to understand,^Value
Location: San Jose, California
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 20,151
Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxeah View Post
No, not a crack
Whew! You dodged a bullet there!

I loved your story as we constantly get people asking about head gasket repair gunk and people constantly buy bimmers which have been overheated and they don't run the necessary tests.

To leverage your details, I appended your last post to a number of threads, so that others may be apprised of your successful method of diagnosis and repair.
__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need

Last edited by bluebee; 09-22-2013 at 10:06 AM.
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  #11  
Old 09-22-2013, 10:55 AM
Maxeah Maxeah is offline
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Location: Wayland,ma
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 18
Mein Auto: 528I
True puzzle

Here are more photos of coolant passages, head and block. Previos owner used head gasket repair before selling to me.Click image for larger version

Name:	ImageUploadedByBimmerApp1379872477.772042.jpg
Views:	42
Size:	26.2 KB
ID:	398198Click image for larger version

Name:	ImageUploadedByBimmerApp1379872495.612632.jpg
Views:	42
Size:	35.8 KB
ID:	398199Click image for larger version

Name:	ImageUploadedByBimmerApp1379872526.391063.jpg
Views:	41
Size:	26.2 KB
ID:	398200


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  #12  
Old 09-22-2013, 10:56 AM
Maxeah Maxeah is offline
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Location: Wayland,ma
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 18
Mein Auto: 528I
True puzzle

I didn't see that comming


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