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X5 E53 (1999 - 2006)
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  #1  
Old 09-22-2013, 09:34 AM
wsaywack wsaywack is offline
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Mein Auto: M3 E36
X5 not idling

A little help, please? MyX5 (2006) starts up and runs good for 15 seconds then stutters and dies. A mechanic tested it and told me it was the # 4 coil pack. I changed it and the plug and the same thing is happening. If you give it gas it runs good but stutters every so often..........appreciate any thoughts.

Thank you!
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  #2  
Old 09-24-2013, 12:45 PM
wsaywack wsaywack is offline
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Mein Auto: M3 E36
2006 X5 not idling

Can someone please tell me where the Idle Control Valve is located?

Thank you.
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  #3  
Old 09-24-2013, 01:07 PM
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Scott ZHP Scott ZHP is offline
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ICV is located near the throttle body on the intake side of the engine. Small silver cylinder buried under the intake manifold. I assume we're talking about the M54/6cyl?
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  #4  
Old 09-24-2013, 01:18 PM
wsaywack wsaywack is offline
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Mein Auto: M3 E36
2006 X5 not idling

Scott,
Not sure if it is an E 53 or E54. It is a 2006 X5 3-0, 6cyl. Is the ICV for the E53 located elsewhere? Is it serviceable?

thanks!
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  #5  
Old 09-24-2013, 04:51 PM
puddinboo puddinboo is offline
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Mein Auto: 2003 BMW X5
its a m54 engine 6 cyl
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  #6  
Old 09-25-2013, 04:06 AM
wsaywack wsaywack is offline
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2006 X% not idling

Found it!! It was a busted rubber boot that leads to the intake manifold.

Thanks all !!
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  #7  
Old 09-25-2013, 05:07 AM
puddinboo puddinboo is offline
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thx for the update ,if this happens to someone else they`ll know where to look
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  #8  
Old 09-25-2013, 07:59 AM
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Scott ZHP Scott ZHP is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wsaywack View Post
Found it!! It was a busted rubber boot that leads to the intake manifold.

Thanks all !!
The lower intake boot (and the accordian elbow protruding from it) are notorious for tears/rips which will cause poor running.

When this occurs, you get large quantities of unmetered air entering the throttle body. The MAF says one thing, but the actual amount of air through the throttle body is MUCH more.

The clamps on this boot are lots of fun to tighten.
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JUST...LOOK...UNDER...THE...CAR....for Chrissakes....it`s like checking to see if a dog is male or female....
Quote:
Originally Posted by smolck View Post
A bimmer with forced induction should have a proper manual gearbox. Anything less is like french kissing your sister.
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  #9  
Old 09-25-2013, 08:04 AM
wsaywack wsaywack is offline
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2006 X5 not idling

Scott,
How do you get to these clamps? I see no easy way other than removing the intake manifold !!


Thank you.
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  #10  
Old 09-25-2013, 10:26 AM
wsaywack wsaywack is offline
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Got the boot out.........removed a little square piece that was connected to the intake and got access to the clamps. I can see that it will be a lot of fun to put back!
Why do the prices vary so much for the boot? $106 at the dealer and $18 to $40 online
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  #11  
Old 09-26-2013, 10:49 AM
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Scott ZHP Scott ZHP is offline
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The genuine boot can be had for about $40 or so. www.oembimmerparts.com

To refit the clamps... loosen the screwhead on the clamp a few turns, slips the clamps onto the boot itself; I tape them onto the boot, in the middle, to keep them out of the way. Fit the throttle body end first... catch the rubber tab on boot over the throttle body and wiggle it over the rim of the throttle body. Make ABSOLUTELY certain that the boot is seated on the TB; it's easy to get it only partially seated. Uptape and slide the clamp into the recess/channel on the boot. The clamp on the throttle body end should be fitted so the bolt head faces UP and at either the 3:00position or the 9:00 position (cant remember which, but the head of the bolt MUST face up).

I bought a tiny Snap-On open ended wrench (might be 6.5mm?) that I use to tighten these !@#$ clamps, about a 1/4 turn at a time. You can use any small/thin open ended ignition wrench.

The square piece is likely your DISA (has a plastic flap looking thing on it). Check two things while its out... if the pin at the end of it is loose, or if the nylon hex that mates the bellcrank to the flap is worn, you'll need to rebuild it. Do a search for "GAS + DISA" for the rebuild kit. It's about $80. If your X5 has more than about 100k miles on it, it's probaby shot.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fast Bob View Post
JUST...LOOK...UNDER...THE...CAR....for Chrissakes....it`s like checking to see if a dog is male or female....
Quote:
Originally Posted by smolck View Post
A bimmer with forced induction should have a proper manual gearbox. Anything less is like french kissing your sister.
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  #12  
Old 10-02-2013, 07:18 AM
wsaywack wsaywack is offline
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Mein Auto: M3 E36
2006 X5 not idling

I replaced the vacuum boot and cleaned and re-fitted everything snug and nice. car ran great for a day and then the problem came back - I re-checked the vacuum system and air system......everything seems to be well fitted and snug.
It stars up well and runs smoothly for 15 seconds then runs like sh.. and sometimes shuts off. When it warms up it does not shut off but drives very jerky......no smooth acceleration from stop.....it hesitates then jumps forward.

Grateful for any suggestions.
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  #13  
Old 10-02-2013, 07:34 AM
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Scott ZHP Scott ZHP is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wsaywack View Post
I replaced the vacuum boot and cleaned and re-fitted everything snug and nice. car ran great for a day and then the problem came back - I re-checked the vacuum system and air system......everything seems to be well fitted and snug.
It stars up well and runs smoothly for 15 seconds then runs like sh.. and sometimes shuts off. When it warms up it does not shut off but drives very jerky......no smooth acceleration from stop.....it hesitates then jumps forward.

Grateful for any suggestions.
Has it thrown any codes? Can you post them?

Check and reseat any of the connectors that might have gotten disturbed from replacing the boots (ICV, MAF, etc)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fast Bob View Post
JUST...LOOK...UNDER...THE...CAR....for Chrissakes....it`s like checking to see if a dog is male or female....
Quote:
Originally Posted by smolck View Post
A bimmer with forced induction should have a proper manual gearbox. Anything less is like french kissing your sister.
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  #14  
Old 10-02-2013, 07:50 AM
wsaywack wsaywack is offline
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No codes.......I did recheck the connectors and re-seated them. I also did a vacuum leak test with carburetor cleaner and by shaking the vacuum boots to make sure they were well fitted and snug........no leaks detected and no change in engine speed.
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  #15  
Old 10-03-2013, 07:08 AM
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Scott ZHP Scott ZHP is offline
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Location: PA, USA
 
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Mein Auto: 03 ZHP, 01 X5, 73 MGB
Bizarre.

Try temporarily unplugging the MAF (it will go into default mode with a fixed A/F ratio) and see if that improves anything.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fast Bob View Post
JUST...LOOK...UNDER...THE...CAR....for Chrissakes....it`s like checking to see if a dog is male or female....
Quote:
Originally Posted by smolck View Post
A bimmer with forced induction should have a proper manual gearbox. Anything less is like french kissing your sister.
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 10-03-2013, 07:34 AM
wsaywack wsaywack is offline
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Location: Hollywood, FL.
 
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Mein Auto: M3 E36
Scott,
Did that............it did not run and threw a "Trans. Failsafe Prog" code. What is that square box below the intake that these two connectors plug into?

Thanks!
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