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E30 (1982 - 1993)
God's Chariot. The E30 was produced primarily from 1982 through 1991. The cabriolet was the one exception which was produced through 1993.

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  #1  
Old 09-23-2013, 09:43 PM
kelqutub kelqutub is offline
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87 325E, Turbo Engine Swap Project

So I have a good amount of questions that I have done countless hours of search on. As you can tell from the title I want to swap out the engine from my 325. I will turbo it. I am trying to figure out what engines will meet my needs. Looking at the differences between the M50, M52, and other engines of that nature. My budget for the engine and transmission is 1500. Total money with turbo about 3500-4000
My goal: about 400 horse to the wheels.

My questions are,

1.What engine holds boost well after a good amount of money to it?

2. Im new to turbos but have been looking at garrett turbos. What turbo is good bang for your buck combined with certain engines? I have been looking at the GT28 but open to hear the pros and cons of all turbos on the market.

3. Would my budget be effecting my goals?

Im new to boosting cars and would love all the help I can get from the direction im going. Let me know what you guys think and what route I should go.

P.S. my phone broke a couple of days ago. Will post pics when new phone arrives.
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  #2  
Old 09-24-2013, 09:55 PM
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downhiller downhiller is offline
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the biggest thing you want to look at is how much boost youre gunna push. you can typically push 8# without heavy mods to the motor. to go more, youll want to rebuild the lower end, put in a raised bimetal hg, plane the head as well as head rebuild. also lightening the rotational mass will help with quicker revs and will have less mechanical power loss.

if you do a m50 swap, youll be close to 1g there if you do the work unboosted. the boost, then you can easily slap another g in parts, then of course all the tuning afterwards, which will add more costs.

if you want a good solid swap that you can get easy high hp/tq numbers would be a ls swap.
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Old 09-24-2013, 10:35 PM
kelqutub kelqutub is offline
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About how much horse would I be pushing at the wheels on a stock motor?

I would also like to know what different bmw engines could do? What engine is popular on the bang for ur buck category when it comes to turbo.

How much would a total ls swap be? I wanted to go that route but couldent find an angine less than 4 stacks without tranny. And thats not including costs of alot of other things needed to fit an ls in an e30.

I just like comparing all my options.
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  #4  
Old 09-25-2013, 12:10 AM
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m50 is 189hp, turbo'd is between 220-1000hp depending on how much you want to drop.

a good accurate cost to do a m50 turbo swap would be $4000. i will say thats probably more than what youll do engine wise (rings, bore, hone, maybe head rebuild, new bearings throughout) and some shop work. but i always like to over budget for that just in case situation

to do a ls swap, youre lookin $3000 depending on how much the engine costs from a junk yard. this way you can start at say 250-290hp, simple mods (cam, mid rise intake, electric water pump, roller rockers) can add noticeable power for less. even then, you can supercharge for 2g and youre over youre 400hp mark
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  #5  
Old 09-25-2013, 12:19 AM
kelqutub kelqutub is offline
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I want to experience boost in my project. I wanted to also find engines that do not take much to fit into the e30. I also wanted to build this myself in my garage for the most part. And an m50/m52 does not sound like a bad start.


For the ls, Thats crazy. Time for some junkyard search and If I fond something good I will definitely pull the trigger for that price.

Would that price include the tranny though? Im doubting it.
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  #6  
Old 09-25-2013, 12:27 AM
kelqutub kelqutub is offline
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Heres a clear shot of the e30. Its royal blue, 5 mt, beige interior. Going to do a bumper conversion later when extra money frees up. Really clean car. Needs paint in some areas but for the most part, very clean inside and out. Also picked up quite a few parts. Its at my mechanics though getting the brake system and ignition system done. I also picked up brand new control arm kit from ebay.

Control arm kit: about 175
http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewi...d=120955816373

Brake kit:180 with shipping


Will include pics of the brakes and some spark plug wires.
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  #7  
Old 09-25-2013, 03:35 AM
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I have been doing Turbo swaps/conversions etc. for over 20 years.
It is not that easy, depending what you want to do.
a daily driver with ocassional burst of speed takes far less punishment than a endurance racer that is hammered for hours on end. I have plenty of experience in the latter.
Why not use the stock engine in your car & boost that

The key to running boost is finding a tuner that knows how to set-up a Turbocharged car
Without that, even the most bulletproof motor will either not perform or go kaboom sometime
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  #8  
Old 09-25-2013, 07:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick323 View Post
I have been doing Turbo swaps/conversions etc. for over 20 years.
It is not that easy, depending what you want to do.
a daily driver with ocassional burst of speed takes far less punishment than a endurance racer that is hammered for hours on end. I have plenty of experience in the latter.
Why not use the stock engine in your car & boost that

The key to running boost is finding a tuner that knows how to set-up a Turbocharged car
Without that, even the most bulletproof motor will either not perform or go kaboom sometime
+1 on this.

The best engine build ever means diddly squat with out a good tune. You could titanium forged rods with Crypton pistons and without a good tune it would be scrap metal real fast.
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  #9  
Old 09-25-2013, 09:54 PM
kelqutub kelqutub is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick323 View Post
I have been doing Turbo swaps/conversions etc. for over 20 years.
It is not that easy, depending what you want to do.
a daily driver with ocassional burst of speed takes far less punishment than a endurance racer that is hammered for hours on end. I have plenty of experience in the latter.
Why not use the stock engine in your car & boost that

The key to running boost is finding a tuner that knows how to set-up a Turbocharged car
Without that, even the most bulletproof motor will either not perform or go kaboom sometime
Its not my daily. I have an e90 328i thats my daily. I definitely understand what you are saying. I wanted to turbo the m20, But I thought it needs a lot of work since its not even a 325i its an E. I will look at what platform I would like to go with and see who can tune it right. I never forgot about tuning. I just love the other platforms. But hey u can convince me in seconds to go another route.
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  #10  
Old 09-25-2013, 09:55 PM
kelqutub kelqutub is offline
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Originally Posted by Newman271 View Post
+1 on this.

The best engine build ever means diddly squat with out a good tune. You could titanium forged rods with Crypton pistons and without a good tune it would be scrap metal real fast.

Very true. Also very annoying to see cars only go fast straight. Whatever happened to all around cars?
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  #11  
Old 09-26-2013, 01:51 AM
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Thumbs up M20B27 as a basis for turbocharging

I thought you had the M20B27 motor
That is the ideal platform to use for mild Turbocharging
With a proper head etc. you have low enough compression to run .4 bar all day and .6 bar for short sprints.
No need for expensive engine builds etc.

There will be others who say that it can run 1 bar
2 reasons I do not do that:
You put stress on that motor that will decrease its reliability
You need a huge IC to drop the intake temperature and get back some adiabatic efficiency
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  #12  
Old 09-26-2013, 08:13 AM
kelqutub kelqutub is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick323 View Post
I thought you had the M20B27 motor
That is the ideal platform to use for mild Turbocharging
With a proper head etc. you have low enough compression to run .4 bar all day and .6 bar for short sprints.
No need for expensive engine builds etc.

There will be others who say that it can run 1 bar
2 reasons I do not do that:
You put stress on that motor that will decrease its reliability
You need a huge IC to drop the intake temperature and get back some adiabatic efficiency

yeah I have the m20. Dont know about the b27 part. Whatever comes in the 325e. All I know is its an m20. I was looking to buy an m50 or m52. And swap that into the car. Sorry if I confused u.

Will remember that. I thought that with the motor I have, I would have to change it to the "I" head.
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  #13  
Old 09-26-2013, 09:53 PM
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if you have the 2,7 then yes its an eta which you have to do the 2.5 head swap to turbo. if you have the 2.5, then you have an "i".

easiest way to tell, is if the car redlines just over 4500, its an e. 5500, its an i
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  #14  
Old 09-26-2013, 09:56 PM
kelqutub kelqutub is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by downhiller View Post
if you have the 2,7 then yes its an eta which you have to do the 2.5 head swap to turbo. if you have the 2.5, then you have an "i".

easiest way to tell, is if the car redlines just over 4500, its an e. 5500, its an i
Yeah I knew it was a 325e. just did not know what came after the m20. Thanks for clearing that up.
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  #15  
Old 09-26-2013, 10:00 PM
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the m50 was after the m20.
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Old 09-26-2013, 10:14 PM
kelqutub kelqutub is offline
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Originally Posted by downhiller View Post
the m50 was after the m20.
Not what engine came after, I meant what came after m20. like m20b**. I diddent know if it was b25 or b27.
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Old 09-27-2013, 03:31 AM
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Quote:
if the car redlines just over 4500, its an e. 5500, its an
Downhiller, should the I not Redline over 6 grand ?

Quite often the Engine number will reveal what it is, but not always...
For instance my Original Motor was 8295354 exchanged by 20 6ka 21777274
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Old 09-27-2013, 09:17 AM
kelqutub kelqutub is offline
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Originally Posted by Nick323 View Post
Downhiller, should the I not Redline over 6 grand ?

Quite often the Engine number will reveal what it is, but not always...
For instance my Original Motor was 8295354 exchanged by 20 6ka 21777274
I have never redlined and 6K seems too much for a 325e.

I guess wait and see what downhiller says.
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Old 09-27-2013, 07:43 PM
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Downhiller, should the I not Redline over 6 grand ?
dont know, i had an e and thought the i redlined 1000rpms more.

the b25 is the newer motor
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Old 10-18-2013, 05:39 PM
kelqutub kelqutub is offline
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So I have come to a set back in my turbo project.

I replaced my brakes with the whole brake kit that you saw in the pics. I also ended up replaced the master cylinder with a new one. So im thinking my brake system is going to be good while I work on the engine. My clutch pedal ends up not bouncing back after every shift. So after every shift i have to put my foot under the pedal and pull it out. Im told by my mechanic the I need a slave cylinder for my clutch and he tells me that my pedal has a crack in it towards the top but i do not see it I think my mechanic is just coming up with some bs for more money because he wants $250 to weld it back. Thats not something i am going to do. I would rather spend money on the engine project or suspension. A couple of days pass by with my brakes working fine and the pressure slowly starts to shift away from the brakes and back into my clutch pedal.

So now my brakes are back to $#!t and my clutch is working better then ever.

Then i slowly start to lose pressure over the next couple of days in both and my brakes are back to being horrible and my clutch is not bouncing back again. so now I am back to square one after spending about 150 for labor at the mechanic to get the brakes done and that money just went to trash. I did some research and found out that the brake system and part of the clutch system are used together in some way. Is that true? Please someone help. I am just going to do everything myself from now on to save money.


Please help guys....
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  #21  
Old 10-18-2013, 05:45 PM
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sounds like you got a leak either in the brake system or the clutch. i would see if there fluid around the slave or even at the bottom of the bell housing. check you brake fluid and see if its low
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Old 10-18-2013, 06:22 PM
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Yeah I did see fluid coming out the housing. I will check all the fluids either tomorrow or after.
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Old 10-18-2013, 08:39 PM
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Re: 87 325E, Turbo Engine Swap Project

The ONLY thing the clutch system and brake system share is the fluid reservoir.

If the fluid level drops in the reservoir the clutch system will quit working before it can affect the brakes, since the outlet for the clutch system is on the side of the reservoir, but the brake system draws fluid from the bottom. It's a safety feature. You should have brakes well after the clutch pedal quits working. If the brakes are giving up but the clutch improving at the same time, there's simply no explaining it without seeing it first hand and experimenting. If you've got fluid leaking at the brake master cylinder, it's probably drawing air in there, too. That's why the brakes get worse with use.
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Last edited by hornhospital; 10-18-2013 at 08:41 PM.
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Old 10-18-2013, 09:35 PM
kelqutub kelqutub is offline
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Originally Posted by hornhospital View Post
The ONLY thing the clutch system and brake system share is the fluid reservoir.

If the fluid level drops in the reservoir the clutch system will quit working before it can affect the brakes, since the outlet for the clutch system is on the side of the reservoir, but the brake system draws fluid from the bottom. It's a safety feature. You should have brakes well after the clutch pedal quits working. If the brakes are giving up but the clutch improving at the same time, there's simply no explaining it without seeing it first hand and experimenting. If you've got fluid leaking at the brake master cylinder, it's probably drawing air in there, too. That's why the brakes get worse with use.
So I just checked the reservoir and something looked really odd. Obviously seeing some really ghetto looking tape was wrong. So right under the reservoir line their is a screw connected to a line and tape around it. the line looked like it was leaking also. I just do not understand why people think tape will last for something like that. I will wait till tomorrow to take pictures with the sun out.
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Old 10-19-2013, 10:09 AM
kelqutub kelqutub is offline
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So here is a pic of the ghetto tape around the line. Time to remove the line and remove the tape to see whats wrong.
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