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E36 (1991 - 1999)
The E36 chassis 3-Series BMW was a huge hit among driving enthusiasts from the first moment the car hit the pavement. The E36 won numerous awards over the years it was produced and is still a favorite of many BMW enthusiasts to this day! -- View the E36 Wiki

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  #276  
Old 09-25-2013, 04:20 PM
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well I'm really stuck now. this inner race didnt move at all. its flush up against the hub. I've taken to cutting it up. but my wife wants me home so I had to leave it as it sits in the pictures untill tomorrow

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  #277  
Old 09-25-2013, 04:23 PM
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  #278  
Old 09-25-2013, 06:23 PM
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Re: Out with the Old... In with the New

You've got a pretty good groove started in it. Pro tip: whack the race with a BFH (steel) right over the groove. Chances are real good the race will crack and come right off.
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  #279  
Old 09-25-2013, 07:16 PM
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jkmeisl jkmeisl is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hornhospital View Post
You've got a pretty good groove started in it. Pro tip: whack the race with a BFH (steel) right over the groove. Chances are real good the race will crack and come right off.
thats what I've heard, hit the grove with a wedge and it should crack nicely

we will find out in the morning
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  #280  
Old 09-26-2013, 06:26 AM
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So, I've got quite an idle problem... it start up just fine warms up just fine but this morning it was surging like a bastard in the drive thru when ever I had to slow down or stop, the idle dropped down to 500 (or so) and then shot up to 1300-1500. up and down up and down.

I've noticed this problem started all-though it wasnt as bad a few weeks ago. it would come and go.

when I did my head gasket 3500km's ago I replaced a few different vacuum lines and the intake boot as well as cleaned the crap out of the ICV, and replaced it's hoses. so I'm leaning toward MAF, but I cleaned it using sensor clean when I did my head gasket?? but I'm going to pull it in to the shop tonight and take a better look

this was an interesting post I found while I was looking for common area's to check

Quote:
so i figured out the problem... and i feel stupid for overlooking the obvious... as the engine paint deteriorated and flaked off, it broke the seal between the engine and the oil filler cap. sounds crazy but i literally pulled the small vacuum hose from the intake manifold that comes out of the CV breather connector. I was smoking a cigarette and started blowing smoke through it. smoke poured out from the oil filler cap. I scraped off the remaining paint in that area and used a super high grit emory paper to smooth it out. got a new oil filler cap, and the problem is gone. so simple i put about 20 hours of hose inspection and diagnostics in before i figured it out. i guess this is why shops have the fancy UV smoke machines... would have figured it out in seconds with one of those, instead of hours.
::sigh::
I might just check that out... haha
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  #281  
Old 09-29-2013, 12:04 PM
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  #282  
Old 10-01-2013, 07:37 AM
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my car is officially a water buffalo. and hates cold weather.... so much white smoke on start up and my coolant has not dropped a mL. can it really have that much water condensation build up. granted I've been making some short trips the last week or so but its still weird
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  #283  
Old 10-01-2013, 07:41 AM
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hornhospital hornhospital is offline
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Yes, it can. What's the ambient temperature at night and when you crank it? The lower it is, the more condensation you'll get blowing out of it.


I guess you got the bearing race off and that job finished? You never followed up with that report.
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  #284  
Old 10-01-2013, 07:59 AM
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jkmeisl jkmeisl is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hornhospital View Post
Yes, it can. What's the ambient temperature at night and when you crank it? The lower it is, the more condensation you'll get blowing out of it.


I guess you got the bearing race off and that job finished? You never followed up with that report.
its dropping to -5c to -6c these days then maybe 4c or 5c when I'm starting...

your right I never followed up with awesome pictures. heres the trailing arms and the hubs



I took a good chunk of inner race out with my dremel on both sides of the race then gave it a good wack with a dead blow and a wide punch and it cracked off with no problem! thanks again for the advice!

heres a little pic of the car infront of the lot I just bought
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  #285  
Old 10-01-2013, 08:20 AM
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dc_wright dc_wright is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkmeisl View Post
my car is officially a water buffalo. and hates cold weather.... so much white smoke on start up and my coolant has not dropped a mL. can it really have that much water condensation build up. granted I've been making some short trips the last week or so but its still weird
The catalytic convertors are like giant sponges. They will soak up an unbelievable amount of water as they cool down if there's humidity in the air. I've actually had a stream of water running out of my tailpipes on colder mornings along with the white steam/smoke. It's usually pretty well gone after about 10 minutes of running and the engine getting up to temp. Zero coolant usage, good,even compression readings on all cylinders and engine runs great so it's not head gasket, just condensation burning off.
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  #286  
Old 10-01-2013, 08:23 AM
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jkmeisl jkmeisl is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dc_wright View Post
The catalytic convertors are like giant sponges. They will soak up an unbelievable amount of water as they cool down if there's humidity in the air. I've actually had a stream of water running out of my tailpipes on colder mornings along with the white steam/smoke. It's usually pretty well gone after about 10 minutes of running and the engine getting up to temp. Zero coolant usage, good,even compression readings on all cylinders and engine runs great so it's not head gasket, just condensation burning off.
all the more reason to delete the cats...
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  #287  
Old 10-03-2013, 06:47 AM
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Well I started sand blasting a few things yesterday, blasted the rear sub frame from the ol 328i I had sitting in the yard getting rusty, I wasnt going to use it but I was interested to see if it would clean up ok, so I blasted a few bits here and there and it just might be ok.



I blasted the upper control arm as well and it seems to clean up alright as well, although theres a weird rubber coating on the base were the spring pad sits, its going to be a pain to blast off I might have to take it to a place with a more powerful blaster.

I got the xbrace completely blasted now so I'll drop it up for power coating later on today.

my father seems intent on keeping me practiced in my body work skills as one of his workers smashed the passenger fender of his work van. so I spent a bit last night priming the new fender. I gotta say I forgot how much I do enjoy painting, its the sanding that kills it all haha.


also I blasted some of the trailing arms and pressed out the infamous RTAB, which were not in bad shape to be honest but I would love some poly ones so I thought I'll just get rid of them now. I heard some a fellow in calgary that when you install the new RTAB you need to jack the trailing arm up to the point it will be sitting during daily use before tightening it into place? never heard that before but I guess I'll have to look into it.

also I cleaned up where my new bearings will sit after they are fully blasted and powder coated. I found my sand blaster to weak to make blasting the trailing arms here reasonable so I'll have to take them in when I do the rear sub frame and front sub frame.




anyone have any advice of the trailing arm ball joints? are they a fail item? they are tight but they are used so... I dont know if I should just press new ones in while I've got everything off the car

thanks guys!
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  #288  
Old 10-03-2013, 09:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkmeisl View Post
I heard some a fellow in calgary that when you install the new RTAB you need to jack the trailing arm up to the point it will be sitting during daily use before tightening it into place? never heard that before but I guess I'll have to look into it.
If you're using polyurethane RTABs, you won't need to do that. The reason it's different from OEM RTABs is because each poly RTAB is made up of three separate pieces: two halves and the metal center. You squeeze each half of the RTAB into the trailing arm, and then you push in the metal center piece. Because the metal center is not physically bonded to the bushing itself (as is the case with OEM RTABs), you don't need to worry about "preloading" the suspension before tightening down the hardware. The tightened bolt and metal center will rotate as the suspension compresses, and will not bind as would an OEM RTAB.
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  #289  
Old 10-03-2013, 09:06 AM
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jkmeisl jkmeisl is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeGerman View Post
If you're using polyurethane RTABs, you won't need to do that. The reason it's different from OEM RTABs is because each poly RTAB is made up of three separate pieces: two halves and the metal center. You squeeze each half of the RTAB into the trailing arm, and then you push in the metal center piece. Because the metal center is not physically bonded to the bushing itself (as is the case with OEM RTABs), you don't need to worry about "preloading" the suspension before tightening down the hardware. The tightened bolt and metal center will rotate as the suspension compresses, and will not bind as would an OEM RTAB.
ah I see, that makes alot of sense, thanks alot for the info! i know I can always count on Zegerman to chime in to all my silly questions
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  #290  
Old 10-03-2013, 05:43 PM
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I picked up a M50 intake manifold with throttle body and fuel rail for $80 today so now that I have that I'll start looking for an m50 vanos wiring harness and all the little obd1 sensors and I think I might just have this m52 ready for a swap soon.... interesting.


also I painted that fender for my dads van. looks pretty. it makes me wish I had done a better job on my car... oh well one day soon I'll redo it.
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  #291  
Old 10-07-2013, 06:55 AM
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picked up all my obd1 sensors yesterday from a guy I met on a local bmw forum project technik. he has a 92 325i turbo that he's working on atm pretty sweet car. I hope mine will get there one day.



so... if everything goes the way it should.... I could have my m52 in my car for next year, with brakes and suspention... just need about $2k or so... could be done I think
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  #292  
Old 10-07-2013, 09:37 AM
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Very nice work!! Get ready to tune that ECU after the swap.
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  #293  
Old 10-07-2013, 10:27 AM
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Very nice work!! Get ready to tune that ECU after the swap.
Ya that's something I'm not going to cheap out on at all. I want a really good tune that's set up for what I have done to the engine and car. I'll start by buying a 413 red label ecu. But that will be a while yet. I have lots to do before I get to that point....I Seem to be saying that a lot lately haha
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  #294  
Old 10-09-2013, 10:22 AM
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new sig
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  #295  
Old 10-10-2013, 10:42 AM
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so I got my OBD1 sensors and Wiring all together and I noticed also the M50 obd1 throttle body is smaller then the m52 obd2 TB, can I use the bigger TB without modification?
pics...
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  #296  
Old 10-10-2013, 02:47 PM
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Are the TPS's the same? And have the same connections for throttle body preheat? If so, you should be able to use the '52 body.
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  #297  
Old 10-10-2013, 02:52 PM
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jkmeisl jkmeisl is offline
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Originally Posted by hornhospital View Post
Are the TPS's the same? And have the same connections for throttle body preheat? If so, you should be able to use the '52 body.
I'll take a look, thanks for the info
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  #298  
Old 10-15-2013, 03:48 PM
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havent done anything with the engine yet. just sent off the Xbrace for powder coating.
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  #299  
Old 10-15-2013, 04:37 PM
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Not sure if it was just a typo, but it's powder coating, not "power" coating. This one has got to be right up there with people asking for "advise".
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  #300  
Old 10-15-2013, 08:13 PM
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jkmeisl jkmeisl is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeGerman View Post
Not sure if it was just a typo, but it's powder coating, not "power" coating. This one has got to be right up there with people asking for "advise".
haha ya it was a bit of a rushed post... fixed thou, thanks haha
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