Welcome to Bimmerfest -- The #1 Online Community for BMW related information! Please enjoy the discussion forums below and share your experiences with the 200,000 current, new and past BMW owners. The forums are broken out by car model and into other special interest sections such as BMW European Delivery and a special forum to voice your questions to the many BMW dealers on the site to assist our members!

Please follow the links below to help get you started!

Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 3 Series / 4 Series > E36 (1991 - 1999)

E36 (1991 - 1999)
The E36 chassis 3-Series BMW was a huge hit among driving enthusiasts from the first moment the car hit the pavement. The E36 won numerous awards over the years it was produced and is still a favorite of many BMW enthusiasts to this day! -- View the E36 Wiki

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 09-25-2013, 09:28 PM
dtownmikebrown's Avatar
dtownmikebrown dtownmikebrown is offline
Smooth Operator
Location: Lansing, MI
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 140
Mein Auto: '98 BMW 323is
Mike's 323is thread

So, I've been doing some "financial planning" over the past few days, and I've arrived at the conclusion that I will be keeping this thing for a very long time. I'm OK with that. For a DD and weekend autocross car, I could do worse. As for E36 examples, I could do A WHOLE LOT worse. It's still got a few things going for it. Just had the front brakes done, the entire suspension has been rebuilt in the past year, and the cooling system has been overhauled. However, there are a few problems that will need to be addressed if I'm gonna be able to live with this thing. Of course, no restoration project would be complete without a forum thread to document the process. Here's what I have so far, in no particular order:

Issue 1: It doesn't feel like much of a "luxury car" anymore.
1. Fix the squeaks and rattles on the interior, including the squeaky steering wheel.
2. Make the windows go up and down properly again, replace the window seals to cut down on the wind noise.
3. Fix the blown out stereo speakers (except for the previously replaced mids), fix the volume knob with a mind of its own.
4. Figure out what to do about the front seats and the door trim. They've seen better days.
5. Replace the blower motor so that I can enjoy the A/C in the summer and defrost the windows in the winter.
6. Fix the garbled readout on the OBC.

Issue 2: It's starting to look shabby on the outside.
1. Fix the rusty patches that are starting to form in places, replace the fuel filler door.
2. Replace the cracked fog lights.
3. New roundel emblem for the hood.
4. Look into getting an M3 front bumper, getting the dent in the rear fixed, and getting a respray.
5. Maybe give it a car wash.

Issue 3: It's soooooo sloooow.
1. 3.23 rear end with LSD
2. CAI
3. High flow throttle body
4. Exhaust midsection from a 328 or M3, better muffler.
5. 91 octane tune. Shark Injector, or something along those lines.
note: Yes, I know I'm looking at a total of +5whp when it's all said and done, but it'll sound and feel faster, and that's what's important.

"Before" pics to be taken and posted in the AM tomorrow, post car wash.
__________________
-Mike

'98 BMW 323is
'87 Mitsubishi Starion ESI-R

Last edited by dtownmikebrown; 09-26-2013 at 07:15 AM.
Reply With Quote
Ads by Google
  #2  
Old 09-25-2013, 09:45 PM
SPapaJr's Avatar
SPapaJr SPapaJr is offline
VP Moon-Based Operations
Location: Vail, CO
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 110
Mein Auto: 1998 323is
As a fellow 323is owner, I feel your "lack of hp pain"...

Only thing I've done so far with mine is a big-bore throttle-body (along with regular maintenance, of course) and eventually along with the things you've listed perhaps some S52 cams.

Although I don't believe I got any sort of gains from the BBTB, it does have a better response/pep. Might be something to look into
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 09-25-2013, 11:21 PM
ZeGerman's Avatar
ZeGerman ZeGerman is offline
Warm Leatherette
Location: Seattle, WA
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 18,442
Mein Auto: 1998 BMW 328is
Seems like a manageable to-do list. I eliminated a lot of squeaks in my car by fixing the door panels. I also had to sandwich a piece of cardboard between the sunroof motor and the access panel. My car back seats (which fold down) were also squeaking quite a bit, so I bought some fabric from Jo Ann Fabrics which looks identical to the trunk material and glued it to the upper plastic trim which the backside of the seats rests on - made a huge difference, and looks OEM. My car is actually void of rattles & squeaks these days, so have faith and know that it's possible to achieve a reasonable amount of civility. Every now and again my glove box will creak, or the cup holders do, but it isn't bad.

As for the seats, I'd recommend getting something aftermarket from Sparco, Recaro, Bride, etc... They're expensive, but they're lighter (by a lot) and more supportive.

Blower motor is easy'ish. You should be able to tackle that.
__________________

1998 BMW 328is
1966 Pontiac GTO
2007 Subaru Impreza 2.5i 5-door
View my photos: Caught in the Wild
For sale: E30/E36 front sway links
For sale: OEM E36 328 catback
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 09-26-2013, 04:50 AM
jimgood jimgood is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Marshall, VA
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 142
Mein Auto: 1998 323is
I can't even imagine autocrossing in the stock seats. One track day in mine and I was bruised and sore from bracing straining to keep myself in the seat.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 09-26-2013, 07:14 AM
dtownmikebrown's Avatar
dtownmikebrown dtownmikebrown is offline
Smooth Operator
Location: Lansing, MI
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 140
Mein Auto: '98 BMW 323is
Quote:
Originally Posted by jimgood View Post
I can't even imagine autocrossing in the stock seats. One track day in mine and I was bruised and sore from bracing straining to keep myself in the seat.
Jim, my dream is that one day this subforum will be filled with nothing but people's self-titled 323is threads. When that day comes we can point to you and say, "That's the guy that started it all." Seriously, though. I'm subscribed to your thread and after the 100th email notification I started to wonder why I didn't have one of my own. And yeah, it's a little bit of a challenge to stay in place. I know I look pretty ridiculous to the outside observer with all the slouching and leaning I'm doing. I hardly even notice anymore until I've done something stupid, like popping it out of gear or turning on the windshield wipers.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SPapaJr View Post
Only thing I've done so far with mine is a big-bore throttle-body
Oh yeah, I forgot to add that.
__________________
-Mike

'98 BMW 323is
'87 Mitsubishi Starion ESI-R
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 09-26-2013, 05:22 PM
dtownmikebrown's Avatar
dtownmikebrown dtownmikebrown is offline
Smooth Operator
Location: Lansing, MI
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 140
Mein Auto: '98 BMW 323is
Some of the things I'd like to fix on the outside...

Can't really tell from the pics, but the front bumper is cracked in a few places and both the fog lights have been smashed. On the plus side, the headlight restoration went surprisingly well and the roundel replacement is a no-brainer.


The gas door has been rusting out for a while. Probably in part due to my cheap aftermarket gas cap which didn't seal very well. The other two spots have popped up very recently.


This was the first patch of rust I noticed on the car. Started out looking a lot like the other side looks now, but it eventually exploded into its current state last winter.


I "fixed" this spot on the bottom of the passenger door by making it look 5x worse than it did when it was a dime sized rust bubble. There were no obvious chips in the paint that I sanded off and those pits never got any smaller as I continued to sand. I'm guessing it's a lot worse on the other side of the door.


I'm pretty sure this was caused by a previous owner using the emergency jack improperly. I buffed it out, which helped a lot, but it's still kind of an eyesore.


It was a very pleasant 64 degrees this morning when I snapped these pictures. Just for fun, here's the readout from my OBC. I often get laughs from passengers when I make a comment on the weather and then hit the TEMP button.


I think I'm going to leave the bodywork for last and focus on the interior stuff first before I go crazy with the performance mods. I'll probably start off with the door panels, tweeters, and window seals. That'll give me the opportunity to find out what's wrong with the windows while I'm at it.
__________________
-Mike

'98 BMW 323is
'87 Mitsubishi Starion ESI-R
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 09-26-2013, 08:15 PM
SPapaJr's Avatar
SPapaJr SPapaJr is offline
VP Moon-Based Operations
Location: Vail, CO
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 110
Mein Auto: 1998 323is
I had a few little rust spots on mine, but I fixed up most of them using this video as a guide

It turned out pretty well. I got my paint from www.paintscratch.com. I spent around $200 for all the paint and supplies.

Last edited by SPapaJr; 09-26-2013 at 08:19 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 09-28-2013, 04:52 AM
jimgood jimgood is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Marshall, VA
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 142
Mein Auto: 1998 323is
Quote:
Originally Posted by dtownmikebrown View Post
Jim, my dream is that one day this subforum will be filled with nothing but people's self-titled 323is threads. When that day comes we can point to you and say, "That's the guy that started it all."
Never thought of myself as trend starter. Thanks.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 09-28-2013, 12:47 PM
dtownmikebrown's Avatar
dtownmikebrown dtownmikebrown is offline
Smooth Operator
Location: Lansing, MI
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 140
Mein Auto: '98 BMW 323is
I'm starting to think 3.23 isn't going to be a big enough difference to be worth my while. The ECU flash I'm looking at also raises the rev limiter to 7k, so this is what I'm looking at for the commonly found ~$350 junkyard LSD's.

3.23
1st Gear max: 37.9 mph
2nd Gear max: 63.6 mph
3rd Gear max: 96.6 mph
4th Gear max: 131.4 mph
5th Gear max: 160.3 mph
70mph in 5th gear: 3057 rpm

3.46
1st Gear max: 35.4 mph
2nd Gear max: 59.4 mph
3rd Gear max: 90.1 mph
4th Gear max: 122.6 mph
5th Gear max: 149.6 mph
70mph in 5th gear: 3275 rpm

3.73
1st Gear max: 32.8 mph
2nd Gear max: 55.1 mph
3rd Gear max: 83.6 mph
4th Gear max: 113.8 mph
5th Gear max: 138.8 mph
70mph in 5th gear: 3531 rpm

3.91
1st Gear max: 31.3 mph
2nd Gear max: 52.5 mph
3rd Gear max: 79.8 mph
4th Gear max: 108.5 mph
5th Gear max: 132.4 mph
70mph in 5th gear: 3701 rpm

I wanna preserve the everyday drivability of the car, so 3.91 is out of the question. Between 3.46 and 3.73 is where it's at for me, I think. All of them are 25% lockup, which beats 0% lockup, but there's no telling how worn out they're going to be since they're mostly being pulled from wrecked 15+ year old cars with >100k miles on them. I've also seen a lot of places that will rebuild customers' differentials to order, with any of the common ratios and various options for the LS, but we're talking more $$. IDK.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SPapaJr View Post
I had a few little rust spots on mine, but I fixed up most of them using this video as a guide

It turned out pretty well. I got my paint from www.paintscratch.com. I spent around $200 for all the paint and supplies.
Cool, I will have to look into it. Its going to be tricky to blend because there's so much seamless area connected to the rear fenders.
__________________
-Mike

'98 BMW 323is
'87 Mitsubishi Starion ESI-R
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 09-29-2013, 12:01 PM
dtownmikebrown's Avatar
dtownmikebrown dtownmikebrown is offline
Smooth Operator
Location: Lansing, MI
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 140
Mein Auto: '98 BMW 323is
The weather was nice yesterday and I had a little bit of free time on my hands, so I decided to see what I could do about the volume knob. It was the one thing I could think of that didn't involve ordering parts. I took apart the head unit and hit the front and the back of the knob with electrical contact cleaner, along with the row of buttons above it.



It brought all 3 of the buttons right back to life and the volume knob was working flawlessly. Unfortunately, it doesn't look like the fix is going to hold. This morning I went out for a quick drive and the volume knob was already more erratic and less responsive than it was last night. I don't know if there's any way to disassemble the volume knob any further, but it'll need another treatment at the very least. I know I can just get an aftermarket unit to put in there, but I really like the uniform OEM look.

I also took out the rear speaker assemblies to see what was going on. The woofer on the unit that was rattling didn't look half bad, so I ripped the paper cover off the top of the tweeter to have a look. Not surprisingly, this is what I found....

__________________
-Mike

'98 BMW 323is
'87 Mitsubishi Starion ESI-R
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 09-29-2013, 01:08 PM
ZeGerman's Avatar
ZeGerman ZeGerman is offline
Warm Leatherette
Location: Seattle, WA
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 18,442
Mein Auto: 1998 BMW 328is
Which models did the 3.46 come in? And why isn't the 3.38 from the M3 auto on your list? As I'm sure you're already are considering, if you're building your car to be more adept at autocrossing, you're probably going to be looking very closely at the redline in 2nd gear. At least from my experience, it seems that the vast majority of autocrossing takes place in 2nd. I've actually found the stock 2.93 ratio to be pretty decent for this, since I'm usually in a good spot on the tach and only just barely kiss the redline once or twice during runs. If you put a higher ratio diff in, there will probably be some course layouts that will require you to shift into 3rd for a few seconds, thus slowing your time down a little. If it were me, I'd go with a 3.23 or 3.38, but not higher. Anything higher is going to require more shifting.
__________________

1998 BMW 328is
1966 Pontiac GTO
2007 Subaru Impreza 2.5i 5-door
View my photos: Caught in the Wild
For sale: E30/E36 front sway links
For sale: OEM E36 328 catback

Last edited by ZeGerman; 09-29-2013 at 01:09 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 09-29-2013, 02:51 PM
dtownmikebrown's Avatar
dtownmikebrown dtownmikebrown is offline
Smooth Operator
Location: Lansing, MI
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 140
Mein Auto: '98 BMW 323is
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeGerman View Post
Which models did the 3.46 come in? And why isn't the 3.38 from the M3 auto on your list?
Good question. I must have been looking at gear ratios for the E46. The 3.38 would be a contender, for sure.

Problem is, I already spend more time shifting than I'd like to on most of the autocross courses I've driven. When I drop down to lower speeds with the 2.5L I just don't have the power in 2nd to really get moving again. If I remember to blip it back into 1st before the tighter turns my times usually improve significantly. I figured 3.46 would allow me to leave it in 2nd way more often, and I'd spend less time going between 2nd and 3rd in that case than I do now going between 1st and 2nd. I dunno. Either way, I think I might wanna go higher than 3.23.
__________________
-Mike

'98 BMW 323is
'87 Mitsubishi Starion ESI-R
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 09-29-2013, 07:02 PM
dc_wright's Avatar
dc_wright dc_wright is online now
bimmerfest Supporting Member
Location: Orlando, Florida
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 6,463
Send a message via ICQ to dc_wright
Mein Auto: '96 328iC, '04 325Ci
I don't know what suspension mods you have, but improving grip and handling so you can keep your cornering speed up and stay in 2nd gear will make you faster overall than a diff change that requires some shifts to 3rd gear.......
__________________
2006 Z4 3.0si Sport Package (But I'll still hang with my "homies" in the E36 forum)
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 09-30-2013, 05:47 AM
dtownmikebrown's Avatar
dtownmikebrown dtownmikebrown is offline
Smooth Operator
Location: Lansing, MI
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 140
Mein Auto: '98 BMW 323is
Quote:
Originally Posted by dc_wright View Post
I don't know what suspension mods you have, but improving grip and handling so you can keep your cornering speed up and stay in 2nd gear will make you faster overall than a diff change that requires some shifts to 3rd gear.......
Haha, it'll make you faster. I'm tellin' ya, that extra +.3L and +20hp and lb-ft in the M52 doesn't seem so trivial when you're accelerating out of a turn in 2nd gear. But for serious, I've got H&R/Bilstein sports and Meyle HD bushings and steering hardware in the front. Not a huge departure from stock, but it does make a difference.
__________________
-Mike

'98 BMW 323is
'87 Mitsubishi Starion ESI-R
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 09-30-2013, 07:47 AM
dc_wright's Avatar
dc_wright dc_wright is online now
bimmerfest Supporting Member
Location: Orlando, Florida
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 6,463
Send a message via ICQ to dc_wright
Mein Auto: '96 328iC, '04 325Ci
While I do have a 328, it's an auto tragic and a cabrio (350 added lbs over a coupe) so that about evens things out LOL. The 3.91 diff and the auto tranny 2nd seem to do OK for autocross although I could afford a shade more gearing since I rarely get to the rev limiter. I've been toying with the idea of dropping down to a set of 15" wheels to get just that, but finding there's definitely some trade offs there in tire sizes. I've also thought about going to the 3.48 diff and staying in 1st gear for autocross, but that would make the car a total dog for everyday driving.....
__________________
2006 Z4 3.0si Sport Package (But I'll still hang with my "homies" in the E36 forum)
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 11-10-2013, 03:15 PM
dtownmikebrown's Avatar
dtownmikebrown dtownmikebrown is offline
Smooth Operator
Location: Lansing, MI
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 140
Mein Auto: '98 BMW 323is
I'm making progress!

Progress:

- Fixed the squeaky steering wheel for the time being. It was the inner race bearing that was making all the noise, so I packed it with a little grease and that pretty much solved it. I wish I had just ordered a new one, they're only about $10 bucks. Oh well.

- Replaced the old blower with a minimum of damage and only a few mysterious parts left over. The hardest part was removing and then reinstalling the wiper assembly. Too bad it got me nowhere. I'm really hoping that its the final stage resistor. If not, I've got bigger problems.

- Got a CAI and a Shark Injector. The car doesn't really feel any faster, but it sounds cool and it feels a bit punchier in the low end. I can leave it in 3rd gear at 15mph and it doesn't hesitate or feel overly bogged down on acceleration, whereas before it didn't feel like that til about 25mph.

-Replaced the rear 6x9s. I had to get a little bit creative with the wiring in order to get my full-range Kenwood speakers to work with the fancypants Harman Kardon stock system, but it was worth it.

I'm at my wit's end trying to find a dual-piped midsection, so I'm looking into having a full custom exhaust made for it. Why not?

Here's the revised to-do list..

Issue 1: It doesn't feel like much of a "luxury car" anymore.
1. Track down some more interior squeaks.
2. Make the windows go up and down properly again.
3. Find some new front seats, fix the door panels.
4. Replace the final stage resistor to get the newly installed blower motor to blow.
5. Fix the garbled readout on the OBC.

Issue 2: It's starting to look shabby on the outside.
1. Get the M3 bumper, fog lights, and side skirts. Prep the car to the best of my ability for a respray.
2. Get a respray.

Issue 3: It's soooooo sloooow.
1. Decide between 3.23 and 3.38, obtain LSD.
2. Custom exhaust.
__________________
-Mike

'98 BMW 323is
'87 Mitsubishi Starion ESI-R
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 11-16-2013, 10:15 AM
dtownmikebrown's Avatar
dtownmikebrown dtownmikebrown is offline
Smooth Operator
Location: Lansing, MI
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 140
Mein Auto: '98 BMW 323is
Wow, I'm really glad I checked the fuse for the blower motor before I went in to change the final stage resistor. The blower is now blowing. I still am going to have to open it back up eventually. One of the squirrel cages is rubbing up against something in there, and it makes an annoying buzzing sound at low speeds.

Now that the car is otherwise running very well, I'm noticing some other issues. When I'm at < 2k rpm (give or take) and I go WOT I can feel a stutter that feels almost like a misfire or running out of fuel. It doesn't do it every time, but usually when it happens it'll stutter 2 or 3 times before it clears up after about 3k. I can also feel a jolt every once in a while when the car is sitting at idle. Whatever is causing it, it's not tripping the CEL.

There are a couple of causes I can think of. The plugs only have about 3000 miles on them, but the fuel filter has never been changed in the last 3 years and 55,000 miles that I've owned the car, and who knows how long before that. Same goes for the O2 sensors. I'd say it's time. The car is probably running too rich right now, and that could have led to the spark plugs getting fouled prematurely. Also, it could be that the fuel filter is just too clogged for adequate fuel delivery when suddenly mashing on the throttle.

Another thing I noticed when I last changed the plugs was a tiny bit of oil in one of the spark plug wells. It definitely needs a new valve cover gasket. I'm sure it's possible that built up oil could be interrupting the spark. I also I noticed that there are four different kinds of coil pack in there. LOL. Three of them look like the factory originals, and the other three are all different replacements. I'm sure it couldn't hurt to replace all six of the coil boots. Here's the more immediate to-do list...

-Fuel filter
-Fuel system cleaner
-Pre-cat O2 sensor
-Valve cover gasket
-Coil pack boots
-New plugs, maybe?

Hopefully that'll do the trick. Even if it doesn't, it's all stuff that should be done anyway. Then on to more fun stuff.
__________________
-Mike

'98 BMW 323is
'87 Mitsubishi Starion ESI-R
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 11-16-2013, 10:31 AM
ZeGerman's Avatar
ZeGerman ZeGerman is offline
Warm Leatherette
Location: Seattle, WA
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 18,442
Mein Auto: 1998 BMW 328is
It probably isn't a fuel delivery issue if it clears up at WOT at the higher RPMs. It could be a lot of things, but my car did the exact same thing over the summer and it ended up being a bad coil. I replaced the plugs, injectors, coil boots, cleaned the MAF, repalced the intake & ICV boot, etc... No CEL, either. Anyway, like I said, it could be a lot of different things, but you can add a bad coil to your list of possible culprits.
__________________

1998 BMW 328is
1966 Pontiac GTO
2007 Subaru Impreza 2.5i 5-door
View my photos: Caught in the Wild
For sale: E30/E36 front sway links
For sale: OEM E36 328 catback
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 11-16-2013, 02:01 PM
SPapaJr's Avatar
SPapaJr SPapaJr is offline
VP Moon-Based Operations
Location: Vail, CO
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 110
Mein Auto: 1998 323is
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeGerman View Post
It probably isn't a fuel delivery issue if it clears up at WOT at the higher RPMs. It could be a lot of things, but my car did the exact same thing over the summer and it ended up being a bad coil. I replaced the plugs, injectors, coil boots, cleaned the MAF, repalced the intake & ICV boot, etc... No CEL, either. Anyway, like I said, it could be a lot of different things, but you can add a bad coil to your list of possible culprits.
Did you visually inspect the coils and find cracks or did you just use a multimeter? I'm assuming you can just use a multimeter set to ohms and test the terminals on the coilpacks.
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 11-16-2013, 02:48 PM
ZeGerman's Avatar
ZeGerman ZeGerman is offline
Warm Leatherette
Location: Seattle, WA
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 18,442
Mein Auto: 1998 BMW 328is
I closely inspected for cracks and other physical defects and found none. I also used a Fluke multimeter set to ohms, and all coils came out within the claimed spec. Apparently standard multimeters, even nice ones like I used, are not sensitive enough to accurately measure the electrical resistance in coils. I eventually took it to a shop thinking they would discover a vacuum leak somewhere under the manifold, but they hooked the car up to their $20k computer and drove the car to log data in real-time. They zeroed in on the bad coil within a few minutes, and that was that.

So even though all of my coils looked perfect and tested perfect with a multimeter, much more sophisticated equipment was necessary to find out what was really going on with them.
__________________

1998 BMW 328is
1966 Pontiac GTO
2007 Subaru Impreza 2.5i 5-door
View my photos: Caught in the Wild
For sale: E30/E36 front sway links
For sale: OEM E36 328 catback

Last edited by ZeGerman; 11-16-2013 at 02:50 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #21  
Old 11-16-2013, 02:57 PM
SPapaJr's Avatar
SPapaJr SPapaJr is offline
VP Moon-Based Operations
Location: Vail, CO
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 110
Mein Auto: 1998 323is
Ahh. And I suppose the multimeters that could read the coils accurately are fairly expensive.
Reply With Quote
  #22  
Old 11-16-2013, 05:05 PM
hornhospital's Avatar
hornhospital hornhospital is offline
D'oh, You kids!
Location: In the Grumpy Chair
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 13,760
Mein Auto: 1995 318is / 1993 325is
If Karl's Fluke DMM couldn't read it, I don't think there's a DMM on the market that can. It took special BMW proprietary equipment to read the fault.
__________________
Quotes to live by:
guessing gets expensive...drivinfaster
nothing is more expensive than a cheap BMW...c4harpe13

Ken Kanne, Silverhill, AL, E36 Forum Mod/Craigslist addict/Hoarder of all sorts of stuff
BMW-CCA #441426
1995 318is "Bebe"; 1993 325is "Elvira" 1985 635CSi "Katja" 1984 633CSi "Sylvia"
HAVE I HAD MY MEDS YET?

Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old 11-16-2013, 11:08 PM
SPapaJr's Avatar
SPapaJr SPapaJr is offline
VP Moon-Based Operations
Location: Vail, CO
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 110
Mein Auto: 1998 323is
Quote:
Originally Posted by hornhospital View Post
If Karl's Fluke DMM couldn't read it, I don't think there's a DMM on the market that can. It took special BMW proprietary equipment to read the fault.
Yeah, I bought a laptop and cable with INPA, DIS and a few other BMW diagnostic and coding programs, but I've only used it to clear codes/adaptations from my tranny swap and basic diagnostics and monitoring.

I'm sure I can use it for the coils, but I'm still learning how to utilize all these programs; don't really know where to start, but I'm pretty familiar with INPA.
Reply With Quote
  #24  
Old 11-17-2013, 09:39 AM
dtownmikebrown's Avatar
dtownmikebrown dtownmikebrown is offline
Smooth Operator
Location: Lansing, MI
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 140
Mein Auto: '98 BMW 323is
Lemme know if you ever figure it out. I have carsoft, but since I'm not getting any errors it's not going to do me much good. I went for a drive this morning and I couldn't get it to produce the symptoms. I put it in 3rd gear at 15mph, floored it, and it was nice and smooth all the way up to 45mph.
__________________
-Mike

'98 BMW 323is
'87 Mitsubishi Starion ESI-R
Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old 11-17-2013, 12:09 PM
SPapaJr's Avatar
SPapaJr SPapaJr is offline
VP Moon-Based Operations
Location: Vail, CO
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 110
Mein Auto: 1998 323is
Does Carsoft have a screen like this?

Deviating figures in this INPA screen can indicate bad coil, fouled plug etc.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	unmodrough.jpg
Views:	38
Size:	18.1 KB
ID:	407950  
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Forum Navigation
Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 3 Series / 4 Series > E36 (1991 - 1999)
Today's Posts Search
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On



Forum Jump


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 04:25 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
© 2001-2011 performanceIX, Inc. All Rights Reserved .: guidelines .:. privacy .:. terms