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E36 (1991 - 1999)
The E36 chassis 3-Series BMW was a huge hit among driving enthusiasts from the first moment the car hit the pavement. The E36 won numerous awards over the years it was produced and is still a favorite of many BMW enthusiasts to this day! -- View the E36 Wiki

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  #26  
Old 09-12-2013, 06:39 PM
Smoothops Smoothops is offline
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Mein Auto: 1995 BMW 318i Cabriolet
Just came back from a session at the garage.....I lifted the carpet looked at every wire with a powerful flashlight, found nothing wrong. As a precaution, I placed a plastic piece between the wire harness and the chassis, right where the firewall meets the floor on the left side, as there is a clamp there that keeps the wires pinned against the floor. After that I tried to start the car and no joy, cranked and every now and then a cough or two, but no start. I knew that the car was sure it was getting stolen, so I tried several ways to disarm the security system. Cycled the door lock locked-unlocked, then cycled the ignition on-off-on-off, nothing. I then cycled the transmission lever through all of the gears while the ignition was on and guess what, IT WORKED!!! the car started right up and settled into its 750 RPM idle. I turned off, then on several times and it started every time, with its mellow idling sound at 750 RPM. It started to get hot, so I turned it off, waited 30 minutes and then started it again, this time ready to prime the cooling system. I turned the heater on to the max. opened both the radiator cap and the bleeder crossheaded screw. For a while bubbles came out and I kept adding antifreeze as needed, but the temperature needle kept creeping up, so every now and then I would have to turn it off before it would go into the red zone, then wait for a while before resuming. After a while no more bubbles would come out, so I added some distilled water and closed the system, as it was time to call it off for the night. Even though I'm thrilled that she's alive, I just don't know what to make of the loss of front windows, onboad display and now the fuel indicator. The front windows do go down when the arrow down is pressed, they just don't go all the way up for some reason.

Last edited by Smoothops; 10-01-2013 at 10:22 AM.
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  #27  
Old 09-15-2013, 05:02 AM
Smoothops Smoothops is offline
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The following day the card was back to her bitchy self, no start. I remembered that the only thing I did after it was running so good was to re-install the rear seat, so I took it out again. The cables to the fuel pump looked fine, but I gave them a wiggle and the car started right up, so now it is apparent that these wires are the source of the issue that has been affecting the car. I haven't had time to take a closer look at the wires, but as soon as I can, I will take that harness apart for macroscopic inspection. Will report results
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  #28  
Old 09-15-2013, 02:53 PM
Smoothops Smoothops is offline
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The two wires feeding the fuel pump showed significant darkening right where they are squeezed by the grommet. I peeled about 1" of the jacket and the wire inside was darker, so I removed the jackets and then twisted the wires into themselves without cutting them. That seemed to do the trick, as the car now starts every time, but with some difficulty I might add. I then moved onto the driver's side window, which did not go all the way up. pushing the door shut causes the window to move up a bit, then down, but if the pushing is repeated very fast, the window slowly makes it to the top. After it reached the top, I proceeded to insulate the fuel pump wires and after finishing that, I tried the window again and it rolled all the way up as normal. I then re-installed the door card but one of the screws by the door opening lever was too long and placed a stop on the window as it was rolling up. after that, the window would stop at that spot and would not roll up anymore. I "pushed" it up by leaning on the door repeatedly and little by little, it went all the way up. It seems as though there is some kind of sensor that stops the window on its way up if there is any obstacle and when the travel of the window is stopped, the window thinks that it has reached the top. does this makes any sense, anyone?
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  #29  
Old 09-24-2013, 06:15 PM
Smoothops Smoothops is offline
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whacking the fuel lines brings the fuel pump back to life and the car starts and runs. I ordered a fuel pump and will try again next week. My windows are now working, the driver's side misses the top by 1/8". I did the window learning procedure (all the way down, keep for 10 secs) and this did not fix the driver's window. My mirrors are now working, it was the switch. Oddly, if I push the driver's door, the window reacts by going 1/4" down, then 1/4" up. My onboard temp display does not work, not even lights up. I think the car believes that it is getting stolen. Does anyone know how to disable the anti-theft features of this 1995 318i convertible? I tried the door lock off-on-off, but that made no difference, ditto for the ignition off-on-off-on. I checked the wires under the carpets and below the rear seat and other than some discoloration near the fuel pump connector (which I peeled, twisted and re-insulated) I found no faulty wires. When the car actually turns on, it runs sweet.
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  #30  
Old 09-24-2013, 06:18 PM
Smoothops Smoothops is offline
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wow, no reply to the last 4 posts. looks like I'm talking to myself here.
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  #31  
Old 09-24-2013, 06:29 PM
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hornhospital hornhospital is offline
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The window doesn't "relearn" by holding at the bottom. It relearns when it's run all the way UP and held for 10 seconds.

I can't help you on the display. If it's not a fuse, the display is probably dead.

The rest of it sounds like you have it under control.
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Ken Kanne, Silverhill, AL, E36 Forum Mod/Craigslist addict/Hoarder of all sorts of stuff
BMW-CCA #441426
1995 318is "Bebe"; 1993 325is "Elvira" 1985 635CSi "Katja" 1984 633CSi "Sylvia"
HAVE I HAD MY MEDS YET?

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  #32  
Old 09-25-2013, 04:32 AM
Smoothops Smoothops is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hornhospital View Post
The window doesn't "relearn" by holding at the bottom. It relearns when it's run all the way UP and held for 10 seconds.

I can't help you on the display. If it's not a fuse, the display is probably dead.

The rest of it sounds like you have it under control.
All the way up is about 1/8" before touching the rubber seals, just enough to let water in. I don't know what to make out of the window reacting to the pushing of the driver's door. The display was lit before I put the car apart, but if it is only a dead display I can live with that.
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  #33  
Old 09-25-2013, 08:17 AM
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hornhospital hornhospital is offline
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Ah! I missed that about pushing the drivers door making the window react. Your switch that senses the door is closed is worn out or loose. That's why the glass jumps up the last little bit when you push on the door. It's finally closing that switch and telling the window circuit to run the window up the last 1/8" or so. Cabrios and coupes all do that. It's to ensure the glass doesn't strike the top of the door opening when you shut it, but seals after the door is shut. I don't recall if the switch is in the striker or the door itself on a cabrio. It's in the striker on my coupes, but I remember there was something different about the switch location on the cabrios. Find that switch, fix or replace it, and I believe the window will go all the way up.
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Quotes to live by:
guessing gets expensive...drivinfaster
nothing is more expensive than a cheap BMW...c4harpe13

Ken Kanne, Silverhill, AL, E36 Forum Mod/Craigslist addict/Hoarder of all sorts of stuff
BMW-CCA #441426
1995 318is "Bebe"; 1993 325is "Elvira" 1985 635CSi "Katja" 1984 633CSi "Sylvia"
HAVE I HAD MY MEDS YET?

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  #34  
Old 09-25-2013, 04:14 PM
Smoothops Smoothops is offline
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That makes a lot of sense Hornhospital, thanks. I will find and repair/tighten/replace that sensor, whatever it takes. I think it must be located at the striker, as it only works when pushing the door/striker inwards into the door closed position. It is probably unable to know when the door is closed, so it won't allow the final 1/8" of window raising.
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  #35  
Old 09-27-2013, 04:35 PM
Smoothops Smoothops is offline
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I haven't had the time to look into the door striker, as I'm racing against the winter foul weather so I can get my winter vehicle ready. However, I wanted to say thanks to all those who have taken the time to reply with braistorming ideas and suggestions. I truly appreciate every second you guys spent in answering my questions. I'm picking up a replacement fuel pump tomorrow and sometime next week I will be able to spend some time with my 318i. I will report my findings hoping they will be useful to someone. Hopefully I will be able to put the car away for the winter in a ready-to-enjoy state for next spring.
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  #36  
Old 09-28-2013, 04:14 PM
Smoothops Smoothops is offline
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Installed a new fuel pump today, arrived and I could not wait.... car would not start until I disconnected the negative battery wire, then turned on the lights, then hooked up the positive (still attached to the battery) to the disconnected negative wire. This shorted the eproms on the computer and cleared all codes, probably disabled the anti-theft system as well. I then re-connected the battery and turned on the car without fuss. It settled down to a nice 700 RPM idle and revved up nicely. About 20 minutes later, I went back and it turned on without fuss again, although the airbag and the engine light are on. I think this issue is definitely a software issue, probably related to the anti-theft system. I'm all ears for suggestions.
Thanks
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  #37  
Old 09-28-2013, 06:08 PM
BMW318i_E36 BMW318i_E36 is online now
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I think your better off going and getting the car scanned by a independent BMW mechanic. I'm glad you finally got the car running again. Software issues are temperamental and should sorted out with the proper BMW computer, also since the battery was disconnected, those lights need to be reprogrammed and flash those lights out. Hopefully, they will not come back on.
Good luck !
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  #38  
Old 09-28-2013, 06:47 PM
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drivinfaster drivinfaster is offline
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i'm lost as to why the carpets were pulled out....

and how did you get around the accelerator pedal without cutting the carpet or damaging the pedal??


or did you???



as for why it seems to be not starting, i would see if bypassing the anti theft would work. there are a few tutorials on how to do this.

to the issues of lights being out, it could be a bulb if it's just 1 area, or, possibly a poor connection/ground is more than one area/item.

sounds to me, though, that you have something simple that is being overlooked, especially if this car ran fine before the carpets were removed.



df
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  #39  
Old 09-29-2013, 01:21 AM
Smoothops Smoothops is offline
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Carpets were originally pulled out because sections on the floors were rusted through. This car has never seen the winter, but the previous owner had no garage and at some point, the roof was leaking. The thick carpets retained a lot of water and over time, all of the moisture rotted the floors on the driver's side and on the rear passenger's side area. I removed all of the rust and replaced the floor pans using a combination of rivets and industrial grade adhesive. That came out just fine. I took the seats and carpets out, then started the car to back it up onto ramps in order to do the floors. Removing the carpets involved the removal of the center console and the glove box as well. The gas pedal was carefully removed without cutting the carpet. After the floors were done, I tried to start the car to get it off the ramps, but as soon as I re-connected the battery, the flashers came on. I turned them off by pushing the flasher button a couple times and proceeded to turn on the car to get it off the ramps. It would not start so i pushed it down the ramps and proceeded to replace the starter, which was skipping. After the starter was replaced by removing the manifold, it would crank like a champ, but would not start. I started it a few times by disconnecting the battery, but as soon as it was turned off, it would not start again. Yesterday I started it after shorting the positive terminal with the disconnected negative lead of the battery. (I read that this erases the EPROM memory chips on the computer) and it worked. The car turned on without fuss, even after turning it off, then back on. However, the fuel consumption gauge on the dashboard is all the way up when the car is idling and the onboard temperature indicator/memo/ect computer does not turn on. My oil warning is in the red zone, if that has anything to do with all of this.
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  #40  
Old 09-29-2013, 08:10 AM
Smoothops Smoothops is offline
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I checked the car this morning, at first it turned on just fine. After a while I tried to turn it on again and....same old, it would not turn on. I disconnected the negative wire of the battery and connected it to the positive for a minute or so, then reconnected it to the negative post of the battery. The car started and ran just fine once. After i turned it off, it would not start again. repeating the process worked and the car started fine. It seems as though when the codes are cleared, the car starts and sets new ones, so it won't start a second time unless the toxic codes are cleared. I took the DME out, a Bosch with the 821E code, part # 0 261 203 357. Another label reads 1247520 001 078, smaller print by code bars are 467.12, 26RT0000 and 6142.00063. opened it and it looks just fine inside, clean as a whistle, no signs of corrosion, shorts or overheating. The fuel pump I replaced did show signs of overheating where the positive wire goes through the plastic housing, at the base of the connector socket. The plastic there is black and there is a tiny bit of melting around the pin. One oddity is that I tried to re-set the oil light by shorting pin #19 of the connector, but it will not re-set. -------EDIT- This is when I mistakenly shorted the engine wire harness thinking that it was the data port------- Also, I tried to get the car to flash the codes by pressing the gas pedal 5 times within the first 5 seconds of turning the ignition on, but no dice.

Last edited by Smoothops; 11-02-2013 at 11:05 AM. Reason: relevant info
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  #41  
Old 09-29-2013, 09:01 AM
Smoothops Smoothops is offline
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More happening, bad stuff. I re-connected the DME and the car started, but idled at 2500 RPM. The engine light turned off, but the rollover protection system light turned on. I turned the car off and after that it only cranks, but not even a cough EDIT: This was caused by the cruise control wire pulling the throttle flap open. manually closing the throttle corrected this, allowing the car to start and idle at 750 rpm. The airbag remained on. EDIT it was turned off with a code reader purchased at DX extreme deals for 39 dollars.

Last edited by Smoothops; 11-02-2013 at 11:09 AM. Reason: relevant info
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  #42  
Old 09-29-2013, 12:22 PM
Smoothops Smoothops is offline
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More news. I re-set the computer with the positive post-negative lead procedure and the car started. It now idles high, surging between 1250-1500 RPM. The rollover light turned off, but the check engine light came back on. No changes in the airbag light.

Last edited by Smoothops; 09-29-2013 at 12:52 PM.
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  #43  
Old 09-30-2013, 12:37 PM
Smoothops Smoothops is offline
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Idling issue solved. Was an air leak from the throttle plate housing, which I had removed to inspect vacuum hoses. A bit of permatex gasket maker did the sealing. Now Eidelweiss idles sweet at 750 RPM. I still have an engine light, but now that is running, I can drive it to the local shop, for a diagnostics session. This car has been a royal pain.
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  #44  
Old 09-30-2013, 12:40 PM
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hornhospital hornhospital is offline
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It will be massive fun when it's all sorted, though.
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Quotes to live by:
guessing gets expensive...drivinfaster
nothing is more expensive than a cheap BMW...c4harpe13

Ken Kanne, Silverhill, AL, E36 Forum Mod/Craigslist addict/Hoarder of all sorts of stuff
BMW-CCA #441426
1995 318is "Bebe"; 1993 325is "Elvira" 1985 635CSi "Katja" 1984 633CSi "Sylvia"
HAVE I HAD MY MEDS YET?

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  #45  
Old 09-30-2013, 04:20 PM
Smoothops Smoothops is offline
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Originally Posted by hornhospital View Post
It will be massive fun when it's all sorted, though.
From your lips to God's ears HH. I fixed the driver's window issue. The sensor was on the latch that bolts onto the body of the car. It was loose and had moved too far for the door to push the button that causes the window to go all the way up.
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  #46  
Old 09-30-2013, 11:20 PM
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hornhospital hornhospital is offline
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Your PM replied to. I'm not having much luck locating a pin-out of that connector. The search continues.
__________________
Quotes to live by:
guessing gets expensive...drivinfaster
nothing is more expensive than a cheap BMW...c4harpe13

Ken Kanne, Silverhill, AL, E36 Forum Mod/Craigslist addict/Hoarder of all sorts of stuff
BMW-CCA #441426
1995 318is "Bebe"; 1993 325is "Elvira" 1985 635CSi "Katja" 1984 633CSi "Sylvia"
HAVE I HAD MY MEDS YET?

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  #47  
Old 10-01-2013, 04:40 AM
Smoothops Smoothops is offline
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Eidelweiss woke up to a no-start condition. It was running sweet yesterday, after I had reset the DME. I know it will start if I re-set the DME, so I will get it started and will drive it to the shop, to get the fault code(s).
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  #48  
Old 10-01-2013, 09:59 AM
Smoothops Smoothops is offline
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Tried again and it started. Had to leave it idling until it warmed up, as even feathering the throttle would cause the engine to die. It does idle nice and revs up fine after is warm. All electrical functions are now working, windows, lights, mirrors, AC, heater, turn signals, hazards all working. The only item not working is the OBC, which does not display. The buttons light up when the head lights are turned on, but no other signs of life. It is a 7 button onboard computer, with no apparent links to the engine management computer or DME. One question, when the airbag light goes on, does the engine light turns on as well? In other words, will a fault of the SRS system trigger the engine light or these 2 systems operate independently?
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  #49  
Old 10-01-2013, 07:16 PM
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drivinfaster drivinfaster is offline
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the 2 systems are seperate and do not interact with each other. the lights will all come on with their respective self checks when starting the car, but that's about it.




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  #50  
Old 10-12-2013, 03:42 PM
Smoothops Smoothops is offline
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Eidelweiss is looking good, starts with difficulty (faulty temperature sensor no priming when cold I guess), but once running, it runs fine. A set of lipped wheels added some character. Here is a picture:

[IMG][/IMG]
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