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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 3 Series / 4 Series > E36 (1991 - 1999)

E36 (1991 - 1999)
The E36 chassis 3-Series BMW was a huge hit among driving enthusiasts from the first moment the car hit the pavement. The E36 won numerous awards over the years it was produced and is still a favorite of many BMW enthusiasts to this day! -- View the E36 Wiki

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  #9326  
Old 09-28-2013, 09:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drivinfaster View Post
edit: if your fluid level is low enough to turn the light on, then you either have a leak or are very low on friction material.
Isn't the low brake fluid warning light different than the brake pad warning light? Edit: it is in the E36, so I'm assuming it is also the case in the E46.
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Last edited by ZeGerman; 09-28-2013 at 09:15 AM.
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  #9327  
Old 09-28-2013, 09:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeGerman View Post
Isn't the low brake fluid warning light different than the brake pad warning light? Edit: it is in the E36, so I'm assuming it is also the case in the E46.
yeah the e46 pad warning is a orange circle with the 6 bars around it. and the brake light is for the ebrake and red while driving either means the parking brake is engaged (beeps also) yellow means a problem with the DSC/ABS.

at least to my understanding from the manual pdf i found
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  #9328  
Old 09-28-2013, 09:39 AM
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Yeah, so we know it isn't a pad thickness (i.e. friction material) issue, which of course was confirmed by the low fluid level you found in the reservoir.
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  #9329  
Old 09-28-2013, 10:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dino1394 View Post
hmm the tank looks dry i opened the cup but the little filter inside wont come out guess I need to buy some fluid.
If the tank is out of fluid, it could let air in to the system. After you put more brake fluid in you should bleed the system.


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Originally Posted by Dino1394 View Post
and interestingly enough i found the warranty handbook from 04 and it says that the AutoTragics should have their fluid changed every 100k. BUT the coolant shouldnt never have to be changed because its life time
What is next, lifetime gas? I can imagination it now. "Buy one of our BMWs and we will fill up the tank with special BMW lifetime* gas. Then you will never have to buy gas for the life of the car*.

* Life of the car is 500 miles. BMW can not be held responsible for any failures after 500 miles. Use of any non-BMW parts including, but not limited to, a non-BMW drive and non-BMW socks will void all warranties.
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  #9330  
Old 09-28-2013, 01:35 PM
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Today on my Bimmer I...

Ok so I guess I was wrong about the brake fluid. I poured a little and didn't see a change so I managed to get that cap off and saw it had plenty of fluid. It was quite clear too (all the brake fluid I've seen was a sort of green color)

So i have no idea why that light is coming on.


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  #9331  
Old 09-28-2013, 05:29 PM
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stuck float in the reservior?? (not under pressure, so no alex, no need to bleed the system when removing the cap), possible short to ground in the e-brake warning circuit??

thoe are the 2 most plausible that come to my mind....pic of said indicator light??





df
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  #9332  
Old 09-28-2013, 05:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drivinfaster View Post
stuck float in the reservior?? (not under pressure, so no alex, no need to bleed the system when removing the cap), possible short to ground in the e-brake warning circuit??

thoe are the 2 most plausible that come to my mind....pic of said indicator light??





df
the light in the white circle is the one im getting

car doesnt beep while moving so i dont think the car thinks i left the e-brake up

the one circled in blue is the pad warning
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  #9333  
Old 09-28-2013, 06:00 PM
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yeah, i believe that is a fluid level indicator....especially if it isn't beeping. then i would rule out the parking brake signal short to ground possibility, or else you would be hearing the beeping.

jiggle the reservior next time the light is on and see if that turns it our also, see if the float is in the bottom of the reservior you should be able to see it, or at least where it goes into the side of the reservior. it'll have a plug on it....




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  #9334  
Old 09-28-2013, 08:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drivinfaster View Post
(not under pressure, so no alex, no need to bleed the system when removing the cap)
I know that, I was just saying that if the reservoir was run completely dry it could suck air into the system. I guess I phrased it poorly, oh well.
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  #9335  
Old 09-28-2013, 08:44 PM
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Rather than just setting the subframe bushings on fire.. If you use a puller and a bearing press (or a large socket), then heat up the metal around the outside of the bushing, it is not difficult to press them out. Crank the puller down to build up the tension pushing on the bushing, then heat up the outside metal. Because of the tension, you can watch the bushing start sliding out as it heats up. When it starts slipping out, you've hit the right temperature and can easily press it the rest of the way out.
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  #9336  
Old 09-29-2013, 09:30 AM
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Ok I got the BMW CEL code from my car and for some reason the light when out when I never did the clear command

anyways i got this

235 (Oxygen-sensor control upstream bank 1) and 236 (Oxygen-sensor control upstream bank 2) also a i hidden p0430 that was pending and ended up going away and never setting the light.

maybe its time to do change both pre cat o2s?

Im looking into seeing if I have the right DME update since apparently BMW released a TSB software update since there was a o2 reading error that could cause the CEL and a lag at take off around 2k rpms. I remember updating it but who knows.

And i still dont know why my side mirrors dont work
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  #9337  
Old 09-29-2013, 12:22 PM
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I found my passenger front tire flat today

hope i didnt run over anything
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  #9338  
Old 09-29-2013, 12:25 PM
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Re: Today on my Bimmer I...

Ouch, that sucks.

Changed the E38 oil yesterday. Also pulled the carbs from the Connie.

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  #9339  
Old 09-29-2013, 08:31 PM
97328i 97328i is offline
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My project is moving very slowly. Removed bushings yesterday. Cleaned up, painted the subframe, then installed new bushings today. I'd have gone stock replacement but I'm also welding in reinforcement plates, so why not?
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  #9340  
Old 09-30-2013, 05:59 AM
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Re: Today on my Bimmer I...

I would definitely do powerflex bushings over stock. And good call on the reinforcement plates.

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  #9341  
Old 09-30-2013, 06:46 PM
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Make sure you get the correct Mcmaster washers and E90 studs if you're using powerflex bushings.
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  #9342  
Old 09-30-2013, 06:50 PM
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Ugh... Nobody ever told me about that. I've been using the Powerflex bushings with stock studs and washers.
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  #9343  
Old 09-30-2013, 06:55 PM
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Google it, should fine a thread documenting the powerflex washers crushing after a while. The fix is some really thick Mcmaster washers, but then you need longer studs.
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  #9344  
Old 09-30-2013, 07:00 PM
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I'm not even using Powerflex washers... I'm using stock ones.


It makes sense that the stock washers aren't too good, since they are curved and have limited contact area. I'll probably just find some washers that cover the bushing and still fit the stud. Don't feel like dropping the subframe again just for that.
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  #9345  
Old 09-30-2013, 07:03 PM
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Don't blame you, that should work well anyway.
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  #9346  
Old 09-30-2013, 07:11 PM
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Yeah, it's been working fine as far as I know.


Not sure if it's related or not, but I have been getting a knock when the drivetrain loads/unloads. There isn't a clunk or jolt, though. Only things changed in the drivetrain were trans, diff, and driveshaft. The trans had significantly less backlash than the old one. And the diff seemed about equal, I think. There used to be a jolt (no knock) in my old car, but now it's just the knock. Any ideas? I couldn't find anything to be loose upon hand inspection.
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  #9347  
Old 09-30-2013, 07:57 PM
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Re: Today on my Bimmer I...

Subframe bushings maybe?
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  #9348  
Old 09-30-2013, 08:25 PM
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They're good powerflex ones...
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  #9349  
Old 09-30-2013, 08:34 PM
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Oh. Trying to think what else can clunk. ???????
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  #9350  
Old 09-30-2013, 08:36 PM
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Since I used most of the same parts, it doesn't leave much. Is it possible that this diff is just noisier than the other one? It's a pretty decent volume knock.
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