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E90/E91/E92/E93 (2006 - 2013)
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  #1  
Old 09-08-2013, 03:54 PM
2fast4 2fast4 is offline
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SES light and codes: P3026, P135, P142E

About 4 days ago, I was driving in town and suddenly SES check engine light came on.
I went to Autozone and the guy connected to OBD and wrote down 3 codes it threw -
P3026, P135, P142E.
It seems o2 sensor related but also seems HPFP is one of the codes.
Incidentally, my car gas mileage is really good So good that I don't want this problem fixed. lol. Gets like over 60miles by 1/2 tank. Engine starts normal. Idles normal. Acceleration is slow though. Engine oil temp rising is slow too(I use motor oil level button to see when oil temp is risen up so it will show oil level). It seems as if turbo is "disabled" kind of feeling when accelerating, and little bit rough engine.

I know my HPFP has been fixed under warranty years ago.
Can bad o2 sensor trigger this problem? Or bad HPFP make it look like bad o2 sensor?
I'm looking up on all the codes I got right now.

As for o2 sensors, should I do all the sensors at once? Are there 4 sensors total? For DIY, is it doable? Which one should I do first, o2 sensors or HPFP?
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  #2  
Old 09-08-2013, 04:28 PM
CALWATERBOY's Avatar
CALWATERBOY CALWATERBOY is offline
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Location: San Francisco
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
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Mein Auto: 2009 E93 N54
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2fast4 View Post
About 4 days ago, I was driving in town and suddenly SES check engine light came on.
I went to Autozone and the guy connected to OBD and wrote down 3 codes it threw -
P3026, P135, P142E.
It seems o2 sensor related but also seems HPFP is one of the codes.
Incidentally, my car gas mileage is really good So good that I don't want this problem fixed. lol. Gets like over 60miles by 1/2 tank. Engine starts normal. Idles normal. Acceleration is slow though. Engine oil temp rising is slow too(I use motor oil level button to see when oil temp is risen up so it will show oil level). It seems as if turbo is "disabled" kind of feeling when accelerating, and little bit rough engine.

I know my HPFP has been fixed under warranty years ago.
Can bad o2 sensor trigger this problem? Or bad HPFP make it look like bad o2 sensor?
I'm looking up on all the codes I got right now.

As for o2 sensors, should I do all the sensors at once? Are there 4 sensors total? For DIY, is it doable? Which one should I do first, o2 sensors or HPFP?

Name:  tut_tut.gif
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Autozone? Try THIS, and HERE

.

Last edited by CALWATERBOY; 09-08-2013 at 04:31 PM.
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  #3  
Old 09-08-2013, 05:15 PM
2fast4 2fast4 is offline
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Mein Auto: 2008 BMW 335i
SES lights went away, however...

So I want to nail this problem once and for all, decided to visit another Autozone since the Autozone yesterday he couldn't pull out the description of the codes. I get in the car and start it, lo and behold! The SES lights went away on its own. Now, this happened about 4 times before. SES light come on and go away after several days later. I think it's called 3 drive cycles.

So I still went to Autozone, despite Calwaterboy's opposition, plugged the OBD scanner and it still remembered the 3 codes. He could only get 1 code description: P0135 - heated oxygen sensor bank1 sensor1. The other 2 codes P3026 and P142E their computer could not get the description.

My question is why did the SES light went away if the issue still exists.
Now the power is back and gas mileage is also sucking like water buffalo.
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  #4  
Old 09-10-2013, 05:00 AM
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CALWATERBOY CALWATERBOY is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2fast4 View Post
So I want to nail this problem once and for all, decided to visit another Autozone since the Autozone yesterday he couldn't pull out the description of the codes. I get in the car and start it, lo and behold! The SES lights went away on its own. Now, this happened about 4 times before. SES light come on and go away after several days later. I think it's called 3 drive cycles.

So I still went to Autozone, despite Calwaterboy's opposition, plugged the OBD scanner and it still remembered the 3 codes. He could only get 1 code description: P0135 - heated oxygen sensor bank1 sensor1. The other 2 codes P3026 and P142E their computer could not get the description.

My question is why did the SES light went away if the issue still exists.
Now the power is back and gas mileage is also sucking like water buffalo.

Where is there a problem here?

Take my advice above.
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  #5  
Old 09-10-2013, 02:25 PM
fdriller9 fdriller9 is offline
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The diagnostic tools auto chain stores have will read generic, government regulated OBDII faults. Aside from those, every manufacture has its own internal fault code system.

You should really take Calwaterboys advice and get a proper tool to scan your car. Shadow faults, which cannot be read with the generic tools, can yield some useful information.
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  #6  
Old 10-07-2013, 02:33 AM
2fast4 2fast4 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fdriller9 View Post
The diagnostic tools auto chain stores have will read generic, government regulated OBDII faults. Aside from those, every manufacture has its own internal fault code system.

You should really take Calwaterboys advice and get a proper tool to scan your car. Shadow faults, which cannot be read with the generic tools, can yield some useful information.
I decoded the codes-Lambda sensor.

P0135(2CA6)=O2 Sensor Heater Circuit(Bank 1 Sensor 1).
P3026(2CAA)=O2 Sensor Operating Temperature not Reached(Bank 1 Sensor 1).

My question is this. Is there Lambda sensor "heater circuit" located separate from the sensor itself? Is it literally located before the sensor? Or is it located within the Lambda sensor itself?
I'm guessing it's the sensor, aka, wideband sensor. Right?

Last edited by 2fast4; 10-07-2013 at 02:38 AM. Reason: To clarify: Some sites says "Oxygen sensor heater for oxygen sensor (HO2S) before catalytic converter is faulty".
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  #7  
Old 10-07-2013, 03:39 AM
hondo402000 hondo402000 is offline
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I dont think its a separate circuit, the sensor must not be coming up to temperature

replace the sensor might help
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  #8  
Old 10-07-2013, 01:46 PM
fdriller9 fdriller9 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2fast4 View Post
I decoded the codes-Lambda sensor.

P0135(2CA6)=O2 Sensor Heater Circuit(Bank 1 Sensor 1).
P3026(2CAA)=O2 Sensor Operating Temperature not Reached(Bank 1 Sensor 1).

My question is this. Is there Lambda sensor "heater circuit" located separate from the sensor itself? Is it literally located before the sensor? Or is it located within the Lambda sensor itself?
I'm guessing it's the sensor, aka, wideband sensor. Right?
The heater is inside the O2 sensor.

Yes you need a wideband sensor for the pre-cat sensor.

The first code refers to the heater element malfunctioning.

The second fault is a result of the first fault, so it will go away once you replace the sensor.

You're not getting 60 mpg. The sensor that has failed is used for reference in calculating A/F ratios and other engine parameters. Because it's not giving an accurate reading, your car is reporting a better mpg rating. You are most likely getting worse mpg and a slight loss in power.
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Last edited by fdriller9; 10-07-2013 at 01:47 PM.
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  #9  
Old 10-07-2013, 02:55 PM
2fast4 2fast4 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fdriller9 View Post
The heater is inside the O2 sensor.

Yes you need a wideband sensor for the pre-cat sensor.

The first code refers to the heater element malfunctioning.

The second fault is a result of the first fault, so it will go away once you replace the sensor.

You're not getting 60 mpg. The sensor that has failed is used for reference in calculating A/F ratios and other engine parameters. Because it's not giving an accurate reading, your car is reporting a better mpg rating. You are most likely getting worse mpg and a slight loss in power.
Thanks driller. It confirms what I was thinking also.2 of them are on their way.

Does it need the "o2 socket" to remove them? Can I do the job from above or get under?
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  #10  
Old 10-09-2013, 02:41 PM
fdriller9 fdriller9 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2fast4 View Post
Thanks driller. It confirms what I was thinking also.2 of them are on their way.

Does it need the "o2 socket" to remove them? Can I do the job from above or get under?
It's a weird angle. To be honest, I've never removed the sensors while the cats are still on the car. I've only removed them after removing the cats/downpipes.
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