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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)

E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 10-12-2013, 07:03 PM
München München is offline
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Forcing a 540 to crank with half the electrics disconnected

Hi all.

Does anyone have any neat tricks for getting the starter motor to crank the engine on a 540i with most of the engine electronics? It wont even think about letting me do that at the moment.

I am trying to break the crankshaft bolt with an old trick.

Bridging the starting relay do it?
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  #2  
Old 10-12-2013, 07:28 PM
JimLev JimLev is offline
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Yes, you can jump the connection to get the starter to engage.
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2000 540/6 Slightly tweeked...everywhere
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  #3  
Old 10-12-2013, 08:00 PM
München München is offline
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Thanks VM

Forgive my ignorance but where is the starter relay? Above the battery in the boot?
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  #4  
Old 10-12-2013, 08:04 PM
JimLev JimLev is offline
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What year 540? It could be behind the glove box or you may not have one.
You can jump it right at the starter.
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2000 540/6 Slightly tweeked...everywhere

Last edited by JimLev; 10-13-2013 at 07:24 AM.
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  #5  
Old 10-12-2013, 10:32 PM
München München is offline
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Thanks buddy.

Mines a 2000, only fuses in the gloves box, couple of relays in the boot could it be one of those?. I was trying to avoid climbing under the car to do that considering the jolt from breaking the crankshaft bolt...

Last edited by München; 10-12-2013 at 11:14 PM.
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  #6  
Old 10-13-2013, 07:30 AM
JimLev JimLev is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by München View Post
Thanks buddy.

Mines a 2000, only fuses in the gloves box, couple of relays in the boot could it be one of those?. I was trying to avoid climbing under the car to do that considering the jolt from breaking the crankshaft bolt...
You should add 2000 to your sig.

You don't have a dedicated starter relay. The EWS module sends power to the starter solenoid. There is a small sealed relay inside the module that is soldered to the PC board, PITA to get too. You need to pull the lower dash on the drivers side off, it's below the headlight switch.
You could always connect a few wires to the starter solenoid, run them out from under the car and then connect them to engage the starter.
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  #7  
Old 10-13-2013, 01:18 PM
München München is offline
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Thanks for the help.

That sounds like a plan... couldn't seem to be able to sign in to edit my garage for some reason...
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  #8  
Old 10-13-2013, 03:38 PM
BeamerandBimmer BeamerandBimmer is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by München View Post
Thanks for the help.

That sounds like a plan... couldn't seem to be able to sign in to edit my garage for some reason...
Let me know how it goes with breaking the crankshaft bolt loose. I'm about to start the timing chain guide replacement. Take some pics if you get a chance please.
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  #9  
Old 10-16-2013, 03:05 AM
München München is offline
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Do we know which of the control solenoid terminals you need to jump to the power terminal on the solenoid?

I have just tried both and while the smaller one seems to have no impact at all the larger one seems to engage the pinion but neither seem to fire the starter motor.
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  #10  
Old 10-16-2013, 04:36 AM
JimLev JimLev is offline
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You still have the ground strap from the body to the motor connected, right?
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  #11  
Old 10-16-2013, 11:22 AM
München München is offline
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Yes all still connected. I have made up a couple of wires with alligator clips so that I can make the contacts while I am NOT under the car. Do I have to connect both control terminals to 12v at the same time?
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  #12  
Old 10-16-2013, 03:43 PM
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16valex 16valex is offline
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The key may has to be in run position for the engine to start.

Last edited by 16valex; 10-16-2013 at 03:46 PM.
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  #13  
Old 10-16-2013, 03:49 PM
HTK12 HTK12 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 16valex View Post
The key may has to be in run position.
No need if you give direct power to the starter. Starter doesn't care where the electricity is coming, just that it's coming. I don't think OP is trying to start the engine, just trying to spin engine enough to loosen the jesus bolt.

Last edited by HTK12; 10-16-2013 at 03:50 PM.
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  #14  
Old 10-16-2013, 07:19 PM
JimLev JimLev is offline
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Just make sure it's not in gear, don't need key in either.
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  #15  
Old 10-17-2013, 12:57 AM
München München is offline
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Thanks VM.

Unfortunately that only gave the pinion click but no starter motor engagement...
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  #16  
Old 10-17-2013, 05:36 PM
JimLev JimLev is offline
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Did it start OK before you started taking it apart?
Have you checked to see if the metal jumper on the solenoid isn't rusted and broken?
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  #17  
Old 10-18-2013, 12:36 AM
München München is offline
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It started like a champ before and all looks good.

I am going to charge the battery even though everything else works.

I also tried it with the key in and in every position... Weird.
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  #18  
Old 10-19-2013, 02:09 PM
München München is offline
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The battery was well charged.

I am going to make some gruntier jump leads and see if that helps.

Do we think I need to power both control terminals?
Does anyone know what the other one is for?
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  #19  
Old 10-19-2013, 05:54 PM
München München is offline
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Ok so it works.

It is a pity I cant use this method to torque it up again.

The issue was too much voltage drop across the jump wires. So I used 2.5mm speaker cable.

I used the jack to hold the 3/4" breaker bar on the bolt and a block of wood to spread the impact load onto the body.

It needed about 15 hits over about 1/2 a turn before it came loose. It works best if you let the bar have a bit of a run up before it hits the wood. Say 1/2".

The engine was not jumping all over the place so I think the engine mounts were OK and after all it is only 300ft/lb of torque. See photos for more detail.
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  #20  
Old 10-20-2013, 05:50 AM
JimLev JimLev is offline
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Good to hear you got the bolt out and that method actually worked.
So you used the jack to keep the socket in place, nice.
That other wire on the solenoid goes to the fan in the bottom of the DME box IIRC.
Thanks for the update.
Here's how we did it.
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...o-lots-of-pics

Last edited by JimLev; 10-20-2013 at 06:04 AM. Reason: Forgot link
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  #21  
Old 12-07-2013, 10:26 AM
München München is offline
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Hi all.

This guys says that there are two wires on the EWS that you can bridge in order to get the car to crank with out spark or fuel.

Any idea which these two wires are?


Last edited by München; 12-07-2013 at 11:45 AM.
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