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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)

E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 10-18-2013, 07:39 PM
scorp88 scorp88 is offline
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Please Help!!Bad Misfire!!Snapped belt!!Multiple Codes!!

I just bought a 98 528i with 184k milesb3 weeks ago. The car had a check engine light on but drove really good. Then sometimes in the 2nd week the car started having a rough idle in the mornings and the transmission would hesitate when changing gears for about 3 minutes.. This past monday which was the 14th, I was driving to work on the freeway and noticed that the car didn't wanna downshift when I was doing like 70 and took my foot off the gas the rpm would remain high and after a few minutes of that my serpantine belt snapped and I managed to get off the freeway.. P/S, W/P and alternator went dead due to no belt.. When I looked under the hood the belt was the destroyed, the pulley at the top was destroyed and the tensioner pulley felt really rough spikey like it was damaged too... I just pulled up a bunch of codes P0301 P0443 P0111 P0740 P0734 Any help would be highly appreciated as I am at the end of my rope with this one
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  #2  
Old 10-18-2013, 08:17 PM
edjack edjack is offline
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Go here to find the definition of these codes: http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/bmw/

There is a link to the generic codes, too.
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  #3  
Old 10-19-2013, 04:47 AM
poolman poolman is online now
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Had a check engine light but really drove good did it. Now with all the schreading of the top end you want to fix it,,but not before when the car was giving warnings?
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  #4  
Old 10-19-2013, 01:11 PM
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johnstern johnstern is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poolman View Post
Had a check engine light but really drove good did it. Now with all the schreading of the top end you want to fix it,,but not before when the car was giving warnings?
+1. Driving a car with the CEL on is vehicle abuse but it looks like the car has told you that.

Fix you drive belt system, clear the codes, drive the car and fix each code as it comes back until there are no more codes being generated.

Or take it to a BMW specialist shop that will do the same thing but charge you many$$$$.
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Old 10-19-2013, 02:21 PM
edjack edjack is offline
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poolman, are you trying to mimic the OP?
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  #6  
Old 10-19-2013, 02:30 PM
scorp88 scorp88 is offline
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Re: Please Help!!Bad Misfire!!Snapped belt!!Multiple Codes!!

Poolman, some people aren't in the financial position to just up and fix there car as soon the check engine light comes on and has no other choice but to continue driving their car back and forth to work to make money to fix their car... Thanks for all the help guys, I really appreciate it.

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  #7  
Old 10-19-2013, 04:26 PM
poolman poolman is online now
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Well sorry about that--but the way to fix the car is to investegate why the lights are on in the first place. There are a number of threads on how to make the fix in the search engine at the top of the page. If you work on the car yourself your going to need to know quiet a lot. The first step would be taking off the fan sheild, and your going to need some tools that normally one wouldn't have in their box. Are you going to do the work? If so,,go to Besian Systems and find how to remove the sheild in the Vanos seal section. . By not paying attention to those code lights,,you will pay more down the road. You have a code reader I take it. I work for a living also,,but when my cell light comes on,,I set to work on finding the cause. My car is part of my work and I can't be without it--it helps me to support my family. With all the miles that you have on the car,,and not knowing it's history,,get ready for the following--new cooling system--rad ,stat,water pump,expansion tank,new hoses, new belts and new pullies and tensioner--parts are going to run you about 7 to 8 hundred. Now you might try peice mealing this back,,many have tried doing that,,but most of the time it will result in a blown headgasket down the road--sorry for your troubles and how short I was when reading about them.
Hope you get your car going again

Last edited by poolman; 10-19-2013 at 04:32 PM.
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  #8  
Old 10-19-2013, 05:37 PM
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Poolman, I am totally in your camp. I was a service manager at a local indie for many years and saw so many people come to the shop explaining that their CEL had been on for a year and the car had been driving great but now it wasn't and they wanted the car fixed. Well, CELs are only for emissions so who cares about that they would say.

Then I had to explain that everything about how the car runs and performs has to do with emissions. Then, after initial attempts at diagnosis, I would tell the customer something like, "You have 10 fault codes and in order to fix your car we are going to have to clear all the codes and then deal with the first one that comes back and after we fix the first one we're going to have to deal with the next one, and the next one until none come back.". Then came the "how much" question and the "I don't know" answer. And $1500 later (maybe) their car would be fixed.

The right thing to do is to attend to a CEL when it comes on. There are quite decent scan tools that cost under $40 and with a little research and reading, one can begin to understand what is wrong with your car and how to fix it. Then, if you throw in the collected knowledge available on this forum to explain stuff you don't understand, you are on your way to a fine running automobile. If the CEL is taken care of when it comes on, the repair won't cost a huge amount like it does when the CEL is ignored.

But to simply say I've had a CEL for a while and now my car exploded-help. That does not "cut it."

Last edited by johnstern; 10-19-2013 at 06:06 PM.
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  #9  
Old 10-19-2013, 07:27 PM
poolman poolman is online now
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Well--the OP listed 5 different codes in the above,,hope he can figure it all out. I did come back and give a road map on where to start. I keep my cars running till the wheels fall off of them and then run'em some more. I bought this one new in 03 and except for a couple of times at the dealer when new,,I've done all the work myself. I've taken the time to learn what to do, bought the tools to do the work needing done and sometimes feel that the people posting here sould do the same. 270k miles on her and going strong,when a cell light comes on,,unless there is an emergency, the car is the first thing that is addressed. I travel on the road as a sales rep--that car is a very big part of my livelyhood and really anyone who works for a living ,it should be considered the same. Back in the day before cars ,, one wouldn't try riding a lame horse,,would one
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  #10  
Old 10-20-2013, 12:30 AM
scorp88 scorp88 is offline
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Re: Please Help!!Bad Misfire!!Snapped belt!!Multiple Codes!!

I appreciate the insight Poolman, I'm taking heed to everything. U guys are very knowledgeable and has been a great help. I ordered the fan clutch removal tool today so I can put the new pulleys on and the belt. After that I'm gonna replace the coils in hope of fixing the misfire.. Btw it says I'm having the misfire in cylinder 1, so should I just replace that 1 coil or should I replace them all because they look like they're the originals with 1997 dates on them... ?

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  #11  
Old 10-20-2013, 07:34 AM
poolman poolman is online now
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Just because you have a misfire doesn't mean that the coil is bad--could be but it could also be a bad plug or a vacuum leak--check around and see what can cause a misfire on these cars--as stated before--there's a search engine at the top of the page that can help you deduce whats wrong.
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  #12  
Old 10-20-2013, 08:32 AM
scorp88 scorp88 is offline
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Re: Please Help!!Bad Misfire!!Snapped belt!!Multiple Codes!!

OK I'll look there first

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  #13  
Old 10-20-2013, 08:50 AM
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johnstern johnstern is online now
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Scorp88, besides searching on this Forum, you can search on Google-there is a wealth of info out there but you have to expend the energy to search.

If there is a misfire on a cylinder, to test the coil you want to switch it with the coil for a different cylinder. Does the misfire move to that different cylinder or does it stay with the original misfiring cylinder? After the coil swapping, you can do the same with the spark plug but do one component at a time so you know exactly what's going on.

More than likely, you have a vacuum leak and the most common comes from a split in one of the rubber intake boots between the MAF and the throttle body. These boots need to be removed and inspected. If the boots are OK, a smoke test by a reputable shop is the best avenue to find a vacuum leak IMHO.

All the info I just gave you is available on various search engines. Google your fault codes, you'll be amazed at the knowledge you will attain.
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  #14  
Old 10-20-2013, 12:51 PM
poolman poolman is online now
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Along with the above--I have posted a list of different spots that vac leaks occur on these i6 engines--the write up would be listed in the search engine under --Vacuum leaks revisited i6 engines
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