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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > M Series > E90/E92/E93 M3 (2008 - 2014)

E90/E92/E93 M3 (2008 - 2014)
4th generation E90 M3 sedan, E92 M3 coupe and E93 M3 convertible. The last of the naturally aspirated M3s, powered by a 4.0 liter V8 making 414hp and 295 lb-ft of torque.

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  #1  
Old 10-26-2013, 10:15 AM
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What would be "high mileage" on an M3?

What type of mileage should I stay away from when looking at '08-'11 MYs? How long do you think these engines will hold up?
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  #2  
Old 10-26-2013, 11:13 AM
solstice solstice is offline
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For the M3 I don't think anyone knows. There is a guy here who has done 200k miles with just scheduled service. The engine is really high quality and can take a beating if fluids are kept within range in volume and freshness. Mine has 35k miles and feel better than new, never a hiccup and no weird sounds or other signs of wear.
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Old 10-26-2013, 11:42 AM
e60M5Power e60M5Power is offline
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What would be "high mileage" on an M3?

I wouldn't by one with over 85k. I wouldn't buy any car with over 85k. Just my personal preference.


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  #4  
Old 10-26-2013, 02:50 PM
SuperTerp SuperTerp is offline
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60+ I'd need a very good idea about who owned the car.
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  #5  
Old 10-26-2013, 07:02 PM
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Keepittrill Keepittrill is offline
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What would be "high mileage" on an M3?

I understand that you obviously have to pay to play, but can you guy share how much you've paid (or would have paid if you didn't have warranty) per year on maintenance?


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  #6  
Old 10-26-2013, 09:17 PM
SuperTerp SuperTerp is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keepittrill View Post
I understand that you obviously have to pay to play, but can you guy share how much you've paid (or would have paid if you didn't have warranty) per year on maintenance?


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If you know you could put aside 2k each year and it not burn you I'd say you're probably good..
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  #7  
Old 10-27-2013, 12:09 AM
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If you know you could put aside 2k each year and it not burn you I'd say you're probably good..
That's not bad at all. I was expecting a figure 2-3 times that!
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Old 10-27-2013, 09:48 AM
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The way I see it, this engine's designed to be tracked and run often north of 6000rpm. If you're using it for daily driving duty (with occasional bounces off the redline) then I think this engine should last forever. For day-to-day driving it's so over-engineered it really is a thing of beauty.

Be aware it's neither the quietest or smoothest daily-driving engine though. It lacks torque low down and has 10 minutes of "fire and brimstone" every morning when cold... but then again so do I before I've finished my first drink of coffee Still, wouldn't trade it for the world. 64K miles and counting...
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  #9  
Old 10-27-2013, 12:19 PM
SuperTerp SuperTerp is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thumper_330 View Post
The way I see it, this engine's designed to be tracked and run often north of 6000rpm. If you're using it for daily driving duty (with occasional bounces off the redline) then I think this engine should last forever. For day-to-day driving it's so over-engineered it really is a thing of beauty.

Be aware it's neither the quietest or smoothest daily-driving engine though. It lacks torque low down and has 10 minutes of "fire and brimstone" every morning when cold... but then again so do I before I've finished my first drink of coffee Still, wouldn't trade it for the world. 64K miles and counting...
Not if you get bpm cold start delete

Also track miles are hard miles regardless of how the car was built. I'd personally stay away from a tracked car.
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  #10  
Old 10-27-2013, 02:08 PM
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MMME30W MMME30W is offline
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Originally Posted by Keepittrill View Post
What type of mileage should I stay away from when looking at '08-'11 MYs? How long do you think these engines will hold up?
80-100k?

Hard to say. Some seem bullet proof. If you google 'M3 rod bearing wiki' it will scare you away from buying an S65. So who knows. I have an extended warranty, after that, not sure I'd keep the car.
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Old 10-27-2013, 04:15 PM
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Yeah I'd say the rod bearing threads out there are pretty horrifying, but shouldn't stop you from buying one.

Extended engine warranty first, and put away some money for a rainy day. If you're going to keep it past warranty, probably worthwhile for the engine to be rebuilt -- by then, either BMW will have extended the engine warranty, or we'll know whether shops like Dinan and VAC have figured out how to prevent bearing failure adequately.
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Old 10-27-2013, 08:53 PM
pkim1079 pkim1079 is offline
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50k.....only 4000 miles. previous owner (friend) was so anal retentive about the car it looked better than it came off the lot.
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  #13  
Old 10-28-2013, 09:50 AM
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I would agree the rod bearing failure threads are pretty horrifying... but to be honest I try not to stress too much about it. Honestly, there's not much I can do if it happens.

Typically though the threads I have seen all tend to be relatively low-mileage cars... like less than 30K miles. While there's a good breakdown over at M3Post about why the problem probably occurs (tolerances too small for some components) it strikes me that due to wear the tolerances would actually be more acceptable as the engine got older. While I'm not saying it can't or won't happen, I am wondering if also the rod bearing failures are due to a combination of too-tight tolerances and slight manufacturing defects... which would explain why so many of the failures seem to be at lower mileage.

Having said that, some failures do seem to occur at higher miles too... but I do wonder if that's maybe due to a different cause.

Personally, I am taking the extended warranty route for the first few years. After that... who knows? Typically I'm not good at keeping a car more than 2 or 3 years anyway and while I am still in love with my M3, I am also still in the infatuation period
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  #14  
Old 10-28-2013, 09:59 AM
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What would be "high mileage" on an M3?

I'll definitely look more into these rod bearing failures. Does anyone have any good links for some reads?

And is this something that a PPI can detect early on? Or does it just happen out of the blue, with no way to see it coming?


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Old 10-28-2013, 10:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keepittrill View Post
I'll definitely look more into these rod bearing failures. Does anyone have any good links for some reads?
http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=892838
Quote:
And is this something that a PPI can detect early on? Or does it just happen out of the blue, with no way to see it coming?
You need to tear down the engine to see it. Some say doing a Blackstone oil test will show increased element traces, but haven't seen anything definitive other than early models using lead which does show up clearly in the Blackstone oil tests.
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Old 10-28-2013, 10:34 AM
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Mileage is a tricky thing for any car... Mine has just over 190K miles and runs great, but another car could be ruined in 50K. Depends on how it was serviced (I've always used good oil and filters, but only change it at the standard change intervals from the indicator), what kind of mileage it is (a lot of mine is highway mileage, which is much "kinder" than stop-and-go city driving) and how it was driven (conservative, spirited, etc.) I wouldn't put too much weight on mileage alone.

As far as maintenance, mine has been no problem at all. I drive over 30K miles per year, so my maintenance includes a set of tires each year (I've never gotten less that 20K miles on a set; usually 25+.) A little over two oil changes per year, I put new brakes and rotors all around at 100K, and I'll put new brakes on again shortly and probably have the old rotors turned (if there's enough meat on them for even one machining) and put those back on. I just put new plugs in again this weekend and replaced all of the coils (got a couple random misfire CELs, but I didn't want to go to the trouble of figuring out which coil or plug it was, so I just replaced them all. At 190K, those coils didn't owe me anything.) The only actual "repair" I've had to make was to replace the purge valve (the dealer quoted me about $850 for the job, but the purge valve from their own parts department was $84 I think, and it took me about three hours total for the job in my garage. I'd never taken the intake plenum off before, so there was a learning curve getting it off and back on correctly. It would take about an hour if I had to do it again.)
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Old 10-28-2013, 09:24 PM
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What would be "high mileage" on an M3?

I appreciate all the good information here, thank you guys!


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  #18  
Old 11-10-2013, 01:27 AM
PNBMWX5 PNBMWX5 is offline
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I just purchased my first M3, a e92 2008. it's done 145klm - 90k miles and runs really well. it came with a full service history which I checked out with BMW.. the good oil at the right time is a must to minimize the wear. I was told most were hwy miles.
p.s. The car was a lot cheaper because of the mileage enabling me to afford it...
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Old 11-11-2013, 11:58 AM
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beden1 beden1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alee View Post
http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=892838

You need to tear down the engine to see it. Some say doing a Blackstone oil test will show increased element traces, but haven't seen anything definitive other than early models using lead which does show up clearly in the Blackstone oil tests.
I had our 2011 E90 M3 with 32,000 miles in for service today and asked the SA and two of their mechanics that were standing together, if they had experienced "rod bearing issues" with any M3's that they service. The SA said no, but the mechanics said they have had just two. Both seemed to be aware of the issue, however, and both agreed that the single most important thing to do is to not overfill the oil when doing oil changes or topping off. They also suggested to get oil changed at a BMW dealer as the M3 is "tricky" to change properly.

The link referenced hearing an engine tick as one tell tail sign of rod bearing issues. With my experience with Corvettes, I was always under the impression that most of the engine ticking noise was from the fuel injectors or valves. The two BMW mechanics concurred, and doubted a ticking sound would come from problems with rod bearings.

Of the two M3s that had rod bearing issues they serviced, both were determined to have been overfilled during oil changes. One owner changed the oil himself, and the other had it done at an independent service center.

My ZO6 was "tricky" to change the oil too. That's why I only had it done at my local Chevy dealer where I have a long term relationship. I had it done once at a "Corvette" specialist service center, and when I checked the oil after I got it home from the service, I found they overfilled it by at least a quart. The problem was, that there were two plugs that had to be extracted in order to completely drain the oil in the system.
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Last edited by beden1; 11-11-2013 at 11:59 AM.
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  #20  
Old 11-14-2013, 12:11 PM
SuperTerp SuperTerp is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PNBMWX5 View Post
I just purchased my first M3, a e92 2008. it's done 145klm - 90k miles and runs really well. it came with a full service history which I checked out with BMW.. the good oil at the right time is a must to minimize the wear. I was told most were hwy miles.
p.s. The car was a lot cheaper because of the mileage enabling me to afford it...
lol if they were like my highway milage 120+ all day lmao
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